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    Results 21 to 40 of 210
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      CT.
      Posts
      730
      Cool project. Sorry to hear about your son, but I think working on and finishing this truck will be very cathartic for you.

    2. #22
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Decided to post some pictures. Im on a Chromebook, so its difficult. Plus Im basically a technological caveman, so it makes it worse. Hope these work and they arent all sideways.

      1st picture is the splice. It was extended for the 4-link. The outer bars land on it nicely. The splice also has backing plates at the top, middle and bottom. And now its boxed. Ill have to figure something out with the inner bars.

      2nd picture is the dash. It was the better of the two. We welded in some backing plates, and I took it to work to strip it. Next we will fill and smooth it, and then we are going to go ahead and paint it. For motivation and to show the color of the truck. If it has to it can come back out in 10 minutes.

      3rd picture is a lazy mock up of the 4-link. I was anxious and goofing around. The mounts will land right where I want them. Ill fiish cleaning the rearend when we finish welding it up.
      Attached Images Attached Images      

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Here are some stance pictures. You guys are used to low, but its not bad. It has almost 7" between the lowest cross member and the ground. My charger has 4-1/2", so I can live with it. The back might get moved a little, we will see. It will be coilovers, so it can be dropped more if needed.

      I know the fender is crooked. I threw it on for the picture. The cab had not been leveled. It has been now, and we are starting the IFS install.
      Attached Images Attached Images    

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      We have made some progress in the last few weeks. I finally had a weekend where I had everything for welding. It seems I run out of rods, gas or tungsten quite frequently. We started the IFS cross member install. Its pretty close to the motor mounts, so we need smaller torch cups to get in there. But the welding is done up until the back of the cab. After the cross member is in, Ill cut the "top hats" and then assemble the suspension. Then its on to the 4-link.

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      I made some sticks to hold it at the height needed for installation. It worked great. 3 levels, 2 tape measures and 45 minutes of double and triple checking, and it finally went in. Then we found out I didnt have the metal clean enough, so we cut it out, cleaned it up and re-installed it. Oops. Its now, square, straight and level. It was kind of difficult, because the frame is not straight in any direction up there. But we managed.

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,289
      Country Flag: United States
      Doing good.

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
      Doing good.
      Thank you. Its a learning curve.

      We started looking at the upper shock mounts. The instructions call them "top hats", and they arent very clear. Im usually pretty quick to pick things up, but I had to really look to see what he wants. The problem is, the pictures are very minimal, the support is about non-existent, and he has you bolt it all together to set it, before you cut the notch, which puts a crazy angle on the top hat. But I think I have it figured out.

      The top hats have to meet up with the cross member. There are a few critical measurements, but you cant get them until you cut a notch in the top hat. But, with the top hat lined up, and everything in-line, Ill end up with about +4 degrees of caster (the upper ball joint will be behind the lower, and the spindle is leaned backwards). A quick google search said this will work okay. Not as much as some of the people racing corvettes, but Im not racing, and this isnt a corvette.

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      The square bar is for setup. Its set at the static height of the shock. The picture angle is weird, but its around +4 degrees as measured on the angle finder.

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      These two pictures show how the upper shock mount (top hats) will align with the lower. I have to cut a notch, before I can even get the measurements. Other wise, everything seems to be going well.

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      I had someone express concern on another forum, but Im not really sure why. Maybe the picture angles are weird? So I went out and installed the rotors on the spindles, and propped everything back up to show where it will sit. Keep in mind the wheel will come out another inch with the spacers I have to use to fit the modern wheels on the spindles, and this is just propped up. The fender is held on with 4 bolts. But this should be where it will sit when finished. Ill be able to lower it with the coil overs by an inch or so as well.

      I have tons of room too. It looks like Ill be able to run some pretty big wheels and tires with no issues. Im going to modify the inner fender skirts and re-use them too.
      Also the gap between the upper shock mount and the cross member will go away, obviously, when we cut the notch and weld it in. Its raining its butt off here, and I dont like cutting in the basement without the doors open.
      Attached Images Attached Images      

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Started installing the upper shock mounts. These things suck. Its just a pain trying to get these things where I want them. To get the "critical dimension" in the instructions, you have to cut the notch first. But you have to cut it so you wind up with the critical dimension. Its dumb. I tried making card board templates, and it helped, but its still just not as good as I would like it to be. I ended up with a gap.

      I also installed the wheel spacers, so the wheel is sitting where it will sit when the truck is done. I think it needs to be lower. Im sure I can lower it with the shocks, so we will see. I was also screwing around with the 4-link. It looks like Ill have to build a mount for the lower bar to keep it level. Its almost 3-1/2 inches below the frame. I do have over 5 inches of clearance to add to the 7 inch wide tires, so plenty of room.

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    9. #29
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      So, yesterday was a bad day. Those top hats were just really not cooperating. Im posting now to admit I have made a bit of a mistake. Its not catastrophic, but its not an easy fix.

      The installation of the IFS states to set the ride height where you want it, in BOLD letters even. I have coil overs on my Charger, so when I read that, even though it states that this will be the ride height of the truck, I thought I would have some adjustability. Well, I dont. These are non-adjustable coil overs. So the height that the suspension is set at, is where it will stay. These shocks do not allow it to be lowered. I was setting it for the maximum height I thought it would ever need to be at, then I assumed I could drop it from there.

      The problem is, its not low enough for me. If Im going to all this trouble, lowering a few inches wont cut it. To me, the stance is more important than the color or bodywork. It has to sit right, and its roughly 2-3" too high. Here are the options;
      1) If I try to lower it where it sits, it will create problems. With shorter coil overs the suspension travel would be limited, and the suspension would be in a bind. I could get dropped spindles, but Im not sure what these spindles were sourced from, and I also have brakes to worry about, etc...I could try airbags, but it would need the air shock style bags, which are expensive. I do have the A/C compressor I could turn into a compressor, but then I would need lines, valves, a controller, a tank...
      2) Move the suspension crossmember. A bit of work, but honestly we could probably do it in a full day. I havent welded the top hats, but if it gets lowered, the passenger side top hat would need to either be replaced, or built back up, where it has been cut to fit now. Not a huge deal, but annoying.

      At this point, Im not sure what Im going to do. Im not going to give up, but this is the first big problem I have encountered. I figured I would post this for humilities sake, and in case anyone is watching, thinking about getting one of the IFS kits. I couldnt find a lot of information when I was looking, so maybe this will help someone in the future.

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Maryland
      Posts
      1,847
      Country Flag: United States
      Cool project. I'm in the middle of a 4x4 version with an EFI 5.7 Hemi. The iron worms were not kind to these trucks, that's why you don't see many of them. Keep up the good work.



      Ron Schwarz


    11. #31
      Join Date
      Jun 2017
      Location
      Edgewater Co.
      Posts
      150
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by drummerdad View Post
      So, yesterday was a bad day. Those top hats were just really not cooperating. Im posting now to admit I have made a bit of a mistake. Its not catastrophic, but its not an easy fix.

      The installation of the IFS states to set the ride height where you want it, in BOLD letters even. I have coil overs on my Charger, so when I read that, even though it states that this will be the ride height of the truck, I thought I would have some adjustability. Well, I dont. These are non-adjustable coil overs. So the height that the suspension is set at, is where it will stay. These shocks do not allow it to be lowered. I was setting it for the maximum height I thought it would ever need to be at, then I assumed I could drop it from there.

      The problem is, its not low enough for me. If Im going to all this trouble, lowering a few inches wont cut it. To me, the stance is more important than the color or bodywork. It has to sit right, and its roughly 2-3" too high. Here are the options;
      1) If I try to lower it where it sits, it will create problems. With shorter coil overs the suspension travel would be limited, and the suspension would be in a bind. I could get dropped spindles, but Im not sure what these spindles were sourced from, and I also have brakes to worry about, etc...I could try airbags, but it would need the air shock style bags, which are expensive. I do have the A/C compressor I could turn into a compressor, but then I would need lines, valves, a controller, a tank...
      2) Move the suspension crossmember. A bit of work, but honestly we could probably do it in a full day. I havent welded the top hats, but if it gets lowered, the passenger side top hat would need to either be replaced, or built back up, where it has been cut to fit now. Not a huge deal, but annoying.

      At this point, Im not sure what Im going to do. Im not going to give up, but this is the first big problem I have encountered. I figured I would post this for humilities sake, and in case anyone is watching, thinking about getting one of the IFS kits. I couldnt find a lot of information when I was looking, so maybe this will help someone in the future.
      Sorry to hear about your issues, frankly I've never heard of "Uncle Jimmy's" and I've been around the block a time or two... And I'm blown away That they used shocks that arn't adjustable, How do you account for the finished weight of the truck??? Too many variables. Your going to have to move the crossmember up, how much is the question... Also from what I can see, depending on how much the crossmember goes up, the engine mounts may need to reworked.

      Joe

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Quote Originally Posted by Motoracer838 View Post
      Sorry to hear about your issues, frankly I've never heard of "Uncle Jimmy's" and I've been around the block a time or two... And I'm blown away That they used shocks that arn't adjustable, How do you account for the finished weight of the truck??? Too many variables. Your going to have to move the crossmember up, how much is the question... Also from what I can see, depending on how much the crossmember goes up, the engine mounts may need to reworked.

      Joe
      Its a re-packaged kit from someone else. I have seen the same kit, almost exactly, through a few places. But, the reason I bought this kit was the coil overs. I thought they were adjustable.

      As for the weight, the installation has you install "jig sticks" which are bar stock that is drilled to simulate the truck under load. That was the easy part. I screwed up, thinking the shocks were adjustable, and set the cross member at the highest point I felt I could live with, thinking I could lower it a few inches. Its my fault, because the instructions say this will be THE ride height. I misread it.

      Im thinking of getting dropped spindles. I have some things to figure out first. The beam may have to move. If it goes higher, you are correct, in that the motor mounts will need to move. Im going to set the bed, and look at it again. Then figure out what to do. I want to be able to lower the truck for shows and stuff, then raise it for around town. At least install adjustable coil overs so I can set it at the best height to allow clearance and stance.

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      We spent some time today setting the bed and hood on to get an idea of how bad I screwed up. As I suspected, it needs to come down by 1-1/2" to 2". This will create a few issues, but it will solve some as well. The motor mounts will have to come out because they will probably get into the steering rack. We can fab some up later. By lowering it more, the bellhousing cross member will be too low, so we will modify it while we are there. The 4-link will have to come down, but the lower bar is almost 4" from the frame. By lowering it, that distance will be reduced. It will probably mean we have to c-notch the frame also. This might cause us to have to raise the floor of the bed, not sure yet. If we have to, not a big deal. The bed floor is rotted out anyway, so we might get into some good metal if we go up by 2" or so.

      Still a ton to do; we need 3 or 4 rear cross members made, and rear upper shock mounts. Need to finish boxing the frame, and we are going to add a tow hitch under the rear bumper. Speaking of which, a local friend scored me a rear bumper and brackets for $100. Thats a steal. Its a little twisted, and has some extra holes and some rust, but itll work.

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    14. #34
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      580
      Country Flag: United States
      Glad to see you are making good progress. I know the frustration all too well of having to cut out stuff you worked hard to measure and weld already. I'm on my 4th version of my front suspension now. You'll love when it finally sits right and all the work with be worth it.
      '95 F-150 track ready street beast
      Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Jun 2017
      Location
      Edgewater Co.
      Posts
      150
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by drummerdad View Post
      Its a re-packaged kit from someone else. I have seen the same kit, almost exactly, through a few places. But, the reason I bought this kit was the coil overs. I thought they were adjustable.

      As for the weight, the installation has you install "jig sticks" which are bar stock that is drilled to simulate the truck under load. That was the easy part. I screwed up, thinking the shocks were adjustable, and set the cross member at the highest point I felt I could live with, thinking I could lower it a few inches. Its my fault, because the instructions say this will be THE ride height. I misread it.

      Im thinking of getting dropped spindles. I have some things to figure out first. The beam may have to move. If it goes higher, you are correct, in that the motor mounts will need to move. Im going to set the bed, and look at it again. Then figure out what to do. I want to be able to lower the truck for shows and stuff, then raise it for around town. At least install adjustable coil overs so I can set it at the best height to allow clearance and stance.
      You might be best off with the drop spindles and adjustable coilovers, the other issue that will come up if the crossmember goes up is the engine and trans most likely will need to go up (if that isn't already the case) making more work on the floorboard/trans tunnel.
      The issues with the supplied "jig sticks" is that you still can't count on the overall weight of the truck, (big block, small block, LS, auto, manuel, ac, no ac, battery in front, battery in back) each build is different and it's desirable to be able to fine tune the ride height. See here for my own quest... https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...t-Frankenstein

      Joe

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      We discussed the engine and transmission interference. Im going to set the engine in, before I tear it apart to see if I have the 2 inches I think I need, and to make sure the engine mounts are correct even though they have to come out. If I dont have the room, I might be able to get a shorter oil pan, but they arent cheap for dodge products.

      I still want adjustable coil overs all the way around. Thats my goal. I have some research to do to see if I can get them for my application. The front shocks now are 14" tall. The rear is a mystery for now. I think we are going to drive on with the shocks I have, and hope to replace them ASAP. That might be a bad plan. When I ordered coil overs for my Charger, they came in a kit. I didnt have to figure anything out.

      EDIT; So I have shocks (provided with the kit) that appear to be Speedway non-adjustable coil overs, with an overall length of 14" and a mounted length of 12-1/2", with an unknown spring rate. I need to get adjustable coil overs, with an installed height to match at around 12-1/2", correct? Then depending on the shock, that would allow me to raise or lower the truck by around an inch, right? I can ask the supplier for an appropriate spring rate.

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      I have ran into a situation. This one might be pretty bad. Im relaying the problem, in hope someone will learn from it.

      I have attempted to contact Uncle Jimmys Jalopys several times again, with no success. I bought this IFS from him, because it seemed to be more specific to sweptlines, and honestly it was cheap. What I didnt bargain for was the total lack of support. This kit came with no instructions, no bill of sale, no parts list, nothing to help the installer. He has instructions online that work well, but if you have a question, your better off sending a carrier pigeon to parts unknown for help. This is the first problem.

      After my little mix up on the placement of the crossmember (not as big a deal as I thought, to be honest) I have been searching for information on dropped spindles. No parts list from the supplier, so Im on my own, again. I found the word "helix" on the back of the spindles. This is the only identification on the entire kit. I have no clue how a person is supposed to even buy brakes pads, tie rods or bearings if needed.

      This search lead me to a few websites, where I found that this is indeed a helix suspension, which is owned by...the Hoffman Group. China garbage. A lot of forums are adamant about not even completing the installation. They say its very dangerous. Complaints range from welds coming apart, to threads coming out and major parts failing.

      Im at a loss, really. If anyone has read the thread so far, this truck is very important to me. I dont want to risk wrecking it on garbage parts. Im not sure if I can finish this installation or not. Its not lack of skill. I know I CAN install it. I just dont know if I should.

      Im assessing the situation, and will post again when I get a solution. I might be doing a crown vic IFS.

    18. #38
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Posts
      9
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by drummerdad View Post
      I have ran into a situation. This one might be pretty bad. Im relaying the problem, in hope someone will learn from it.

      I have attempted to contact Uncle Jimmys Jalopys several times again, with no success. I bought this IFS from him, because it seemed to be more specific to sweptlines, and honestly it was cheap. What I didnt bargain for was the total lack of support. This kit came with no instructions, no bill of sale, no parts list, nothing to help the installer. He has instructions online that work well, but if you have a question, your better off sending a carrier pigeon to parts unknown for help. This is the first problem.

      After my little mix up on the placement of the crossmember (not as big a deal as I thought, to be honest) I have been searching for information on dropped spindles. No parts list from the supplier, so Im on my own, again. I found the word "helix" on the back of the spindles. This is the only identification on the entire kit. I have no clue how a person is supposed to even buy brakes pads, tie rods or bearings if needed.

      This search lead me to a few websites, where I found that this is indeed a helix suspension, which is owned by...the Hoffman Group. China garbage. A lot of forums are adamant about not even completing the installation. They say its very dangerous. Complaints range from welds coming apart, to threads coming out and major parts failing.

      Im at a loss, really. If anyone has read the thread so far, this truck is very important to me. I dont want to risk wrecking it on garbage parts. Im not sure if I can finish this installation or not. Its not lack of skill. I know I CAN install it. I just dont know if I should.

      Im assessing the situation, and will post again when I get a solution. I might be doing a crown vic IFS.
      Ah that sucks. I think if you are in this hobby for any amount of time, you are bound to get burned by Chinese parts at one point or another. I sure know I have.
      1972 Chevelle 6.0 LQ9/4l80e

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,672
      Country Flag: United States
      If the CV IFS is a viable option,I would do that over any junky Chinese parts!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
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      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    20. #40
      Join Date
      Jun 2017
      Location
      Edgewater Co.
      Posts
      150
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      If the CV IFS is a viable option,I would do that over any junky Chinese parts!

      Andrew
      I have to agree with Andrew on this one, suspension and brakes are a bad place to take chances on, Crown Vic for the win... I've seen Helix advertised in Street Rodder and been skeptical... sometimes leaning can be painful, better the wallet than something else, sorry to see how this has gone.


      Joe

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