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    Page 12 of 12 FirstFirst ... 2 7 8 9 10 11 12
    Results 221 to 230 of 230
    1. #221
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      So today, I finished getting the chassis apart, and built my engine stand, and a few other little pieces here and there. The engine stand works great, and I managed to get a few really nice welds on it. I havent welded in a few months, so it took a few to get my speed right.

      I managed to measure the suspension, and I am convinced the parts were manufactured with a defect. I zeroed the angle finder, and measured the results. Had I installed the "top hats" to get the desired angle, it would have made the cross member uprights crooked, and the uprights need to be straight. Ill see if I can arrange the pictures in an order that makes sense. Either way, they dont match side to side, which is wrong anyway.

      I think what Im going to do is cut the upper a-arm bar out, and remove the shock mount. Ill install another bar at the right angle and orientation, and see how that works.


      1st- the cross member upright is straight. I drew in a line where the "top hat" and the cross member meet. There is a seem that gets welded there.
      2nd-drivers side. It should be close to 5 degrees.
      3rd-passenger side. Should also be close to 5 degrees, but they should at least match side to side.
      4th-both side were level and within .2 degrees of each other at the bottom of the cross member.
      5th-started out too fast at the top, but slowed it down and got a nice weld by the bottom. Im getting better.
      6th-finished engine stand, sitting on a furniture dolly.



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    2. #222
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      I tried to get most of the grinding and cutting done today, but Ill still have a little to do along the way. I did quite a bit today.

      I cut the tops off of the cross member, and removed the round bar from it. My plan is to set these bars exactly how I want them, then make 3/16 filler plates. I have a tapered reamer on the way that should fix the spindles. Ill shorten the top tubes a little to allow caster adjustments also. And if anything doesnt go as planned, Ill step back and punt...meaning Ill just order the welder series cross member, and cut this all the way out. That option is on the table, but Im trying to avoid it since I have so much time and money in this set-up already. Its not so much about the money, but removing everything would set me back a few more months, and it would require a lot of figuring out to get all the parts right. Plus I want to use the brakes I have now. I plan on doing a welder series on the F100 when its time comes.

      I was playing around and made a cross member that I really kinda like. The 2 x 3 wall thickness is excessive, but thats what I picked up the other day off of facebook marketplace, so I used it. The loop was scrap from work I scrounged up. The cross member would give me a little driveshaft loop of sorts, so in the event of a driveshaft failure, it doesnt catch the pavement. Im not sure Ill use it, but I want to. We will see.

      Still tons of work to do on the frame. Ill be busy this winter.

      1st- If I use it, it would replace the cross member in front of it. Nothing bolts to this cross member, so it just sits there, all crooked.
      2nd-Fitting the loop. It fit pretty good I think.
      3rd-Loop notched were cut with a grinder, so they are not perfect.
      4th-The bar where the upper control arm was mounted. I cut them out, and cleaned them up. Ill also shorten them for caster adjustments.
      5th-Cross member top mount cut flush and ready for mods.


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    3. #223
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      This IFS will be the death of me. I struggled for hours the other day trying to make sure everything is right. The cross member appears to be square and level. I installed the control arms, and the lowers are level at ride height. So, the upper ball joint should be behind the lower, and the angle between their centers should be about 4 to 5 degrees of caster angle. I am using a manual steering rack just in case anyone wants to know. If it was power steering, I could add a little more, maybe 6 or 7 degrees. Then the upper control arm pivot point should be set at around 5 degrees for anti-dive. The drivers side is set, and looks to be going okay. The passenger side has just made a mockery of me. Ill deal with it again saturday, and maybe have more information. The more I look at it, the more I notice little things, Like the lower control arms are nor perfect mirror images of each other. I think Im going to build in some extra adjustment points so I can make sure this thing is aligned right when the time comes.

      In the mean time to boost my spirits and confidence, I started the cross member pass throughs, and started filling holes. I think Im going to remove the crooked cross member (I think it was for the carrier bearing), and add the new one I made. Actually, Im pretty sure its too tall, Ill have to make a shorter one, But I like it, and itll look good under there.

      Im going to spend some time cleaning the frame up too. It looks worse than I thought.

      1st- Rear side of the pass throughs. The wiring, fuel lines and brake lines will go through these.
      2nd-Front side. These will get welded and smoothed.
      3rd- A hole we accidentally cut before and left for later. Well, its later so I fixed it.
      4th-I know the picture sucks. The anti-dive angle is 5 degrees, and the caster is around 4-1/2.
      5th-This side is doing okay. Ill deal with the upper shock mounts later as well. The other side is fighting me.

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    4. #224
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,307
      Country Flag: United States
      If it helps any, your welding is better than when you started.

    5. #225
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
      If it helps any, your welding is better than when you started.

      Haha. Thank you. I still have a way to go, but I think it is getting better. I need to start practicing with the TIG next.

    6. #226
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      I decided to put my head down today and either fix this, or make a decision. I think it turned out great. My welds are still lacking a bit, but they are burning in nice. They arent the straightest, and my speed still needs work, but this isnt going anywhere. I measured and remeasured and everything is within 1/16th on the tape measure, and the angles are all well within 2 tenths of a degree. The upper control arm mount angle (anti-dive, what started this whole problem) is within 5 hundredths.

      I need to order the stuff for the a-arms. Im also going to have to buy either a bender, or a die for the bender at work. Ill use 1-1/4 tube, so the die is about $250. The bender is about $400, but Ill have it for later. Im not sure what to do. I have already picked out my tube ends, and the rod ends as well, just have to order it all.

      I need to add some caster adjustment in the upper mounts. Im thinking of making them like the ones from SPC. I can get all the parts, I just need to make sure they will work. Then I need to make a decision about the cross member. And then about the trailer hitch.

      1st-Side profile. They match pretty good now.
      2nd-Everything is nice and level, except the bumper.
      3rd-Drivers side. Ill grind the welds down and smooth everything.
      4th-Passenger side.
      5th-These are the SPC uppers. I can buy all the parts to make them.

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    7. #227
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      Still messing around to see what I like. I have made several changes, some will stay, some wont.

      The upper shock mount hoop I really like. Ill tie this in to the top of the upper a-arm mount. It should work well. This will also allow me to make the inner fender wells go around this hoop. Then Ill make a small closeout for inside the hoop to block off the engine compartment.

      I also moved the battery to the opposite side. I like the mount I made pretty good, but I felt it needed to be on the other side for a little weight distribution. Its not much but itll help even things out.

      I removed the carrier bearing cross member, and welded in the boxing plates. Then I tacked in the cross member I made...and its not going to work. The short story is, my wife loves driving my Charger R/T. This started a discussion about the future engine we are going to put in the truck. I explained the cost of installing a 5.7 hemi, with a T56, and the benefits and we talked about it for awhile. She agreed it would be worth it, if we can afford to do it in the future. So, thats going to be the direction we are planning to go. The T56 will be quite a bit longer than the NP435. So, Im going to remove this cross member, and weld in some angle down the sides of the frame. Then I can bolt in a cross member. When the time comes, I can remove or relocate the driveshaft loop, and add a tail cone mount for the T56.

      1st- The cross member that has to come out. I like it, but it need to be removable.
      2nd-Tig practice. Im not dipping the tungsten every pass now, but I have a long way to go.
      3rd- Last pass of the day. Started out pretty good, then went south. I went right to left.
      4th-The upper shock hoop. Ill tie this in with the top of the a-arm mount. Should be very solid.

      I started playing with the TIG welder today. Its just a cheap Lowes welder, but it does good. There is no pedal, so I have to get the amp setting just right before I start. I am getting better, but its a slow process for me. I made a few decent welds with it, but nothing to brag about. If I cant get it looking better, I may just tack together the A-arms, and pay a professional to weld them. Better safe than sorry on those.

      I still need to finish the cross member pass throughs, but I wanted to get some other things going first. When I get all of this finalized, I flip the frame over and weld everything from the bottom too. Then we can paint the whole thing.



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    8. #228
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,307
      Country Flag: United States
      May I suggest that instead of a T56 you consider the TKO. When you compare dimensions, that will help make your decision. One other thought: a few parts on a 360 will make an easy 400 hp. The 5.7 conversion is pricey. It might be worth your time to look at the 360 magnum with some improvements. It may not be a good solution but if you look at all the choices, you shouldn't have any regrets.

    9. #229
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
      May I suggest that instead of a T56 you consider the TKO. When you compare dimensions, that will help make your decision. One other thought: a few parts on a 360 will make an easy 400 hp. The 5.7 conversion is pricey. It might be worth your time to look at the 360 magnum with some improvements. It may not be a good solution but if you look at all the choices, you shouldn't have any regrets.
      I have not compared the T56 and the TKO directly. I have the space for it, its just an issue of making the transmission mount, and of course, the money. As for the 5.7 hemi, yes they are pricey. But a well built 360 with fuel injection and heads to make the 400 hp will be close to the cost of a pull out 5.7. Isaac was adamant about putting in a modern engine, but he wanted a hellcat 6.2, which will never happen. The real deciding factor will be the budget. Im trying to keep options open, and plan accordingly. It might have the little 318 forever, and that would be okay too.

    10. #230
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      It was a busy day of welding and grinding. I am trying to get all the grinding done before the weather gets really cold. So I filled some holes, and worked on the pass throughs.

      As far as the pass throughs are concerned, Im going to leave them like they are. I am not worried about a few small pin holes here and there. I will cover all the frame gaps with seam sealer, or something like it, before paint. Its not a show truck, so welding and grinding everything until its perfect doesnt make sense. Plus I just dont have the skills yet. Itll be good enough for a nice driver.

      The hole filling went well. Im not going to fill every little hole either. Im just not that worried about it. I will work on the front suspension more. I have to make it presentable before paint.

      Then after Im happy with the top, Im going to flip it over and weld everything on the bottom. I think I can finish the top with another good solid 8 hour day, then it can be flipped over.


      I got the pictures out of order, so sorry about that.
      1st- Plug all welded up
      2nd-The plug, made from 3/16" plate
      3rd- All ground flush
      4th-The hole. I think it was for the steering.
      5th-Front face of the driver side rear passthrough. This will face forward, but be under the bed.
      6th-Rear face of the drivers side forward passthrough. This is rear facing, under the drivers feet.

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