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    Results 221 to 240 of 261
    1. #221
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      So today, I finished getting the chassis apart, and built my engine stand, and a few other little pieces here and there. The engine stand works great, and I managed to get a few really nice welds on it. I havent welded in a few months, so it took a few to get my speed right.

      I managed to measure the suspension, and I am convinced the parts were manufactured with a defect. I zeroed the angle finder, and measured the results. Had I installed the "top hats" to get the desired angle, it would have made the cross member uprights crooked, and the uprights need to be straight. Ill see if I can arrange the pictures in an order that makes sense. Either way, they dont match side to side, which is wrong anyway.

      I think what Im going to do is cut the upper a-arm bar out, and remove the shock mount. Ill install another bar at the right angle and orientation, and see how that works.


      1st- the cross member upright is straight. I drew in a line where the "top hat" and the cross member meet. There is a seem that gets welded there.
      2nd-drivers side. It should be close to 5 degrees.
      3rd-passenger side. Should also be close to 5 degrees, but they should at least match side to side.
      4th-both side were level and within .2 degrees of each other at the bottom of the cross member.
      5th-started out too fast at the top, but slowed it down and got a nice weld by the bottom. Im getting better.
      6th-finished engine stand, sitting on a furniture dolly.

      Attached Images Attached Images            

    2. #222
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      I tried to get most of the grinding and cutting done today, but Ill still have a little to do along the way. I did quite a bit today.

      I cut the tops off of the cross member, and removed the round bar from it. My plan is to set these bars exactly how I want them, then make 3/16 filler plates. I have a tapered reamer on the way that should fix the spindles. Ill shorten the top tubes a little to allow caster adjustments also. And if anything doesnt go as planned, Ill step back and punt...meaning Ill just order the welder series cross member, and cut this all the way out. That option is on the table, but Im trying to avoid it since I have so much time and money in this set-up already. Its not so much about the money, but removing everything would set me back a few more months, and it would require a lot of figuring out to get all the parts right. Plus I want to use the brakes I have now. I plan on doing a welder series on the F100 when its time comes.

      I was playing around and made a cross member that I really kinda like. The 2 x 3 wall thickness is excessive, but thats what I picked up the other day off of facebook marketplace, so I used it. The loop was scrap from work I scrounged up. The cross member would give me a little driveshaft loop of sorts, so in the event of a driveshaft failure, it doesnt catch the pavement. Im not sure Ill use it, but I want to. We will see.

      Still tons of work to do on the frame. Ill be busy this winter.

      1st- If I use it, it would replace the cross member in front of it. Nothing bolts to this cross member, so it just sits there, all crooked.
      2nd-Fitting the loop. It fit pretty good I think.
      3rd-Loop notched were cut with a grinder, so they are not perfect.
      4th-The bar where the upper control arm was mounted. I cut them out, and cleaned them up. Ill also shorten them for caster adjustments.
      5th-Cross member top mount cut flush and ready for mods.


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    3. #223
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      This IFS will be the death of me. I struggled for hours the other day trying to make sure everything is right. The cross member appears to be square and level. I installed the control arms, and the lowers are level at ride height. So, the upper ball joint should be behind the lower, and the angle between their centers should be about 4 to 5 degrees of caster angle. I am using a manual steering rack just in case anyone wants to know. If it was power steering, I could add a little more, maybe 6 or 7 degrees. Then the upper control arm pivot point should be set at around 5 degrees for anti-dive. The drivers side is set, and looks to be going okay. The passenger side has just made a mockery of me. Ill deal with it again saturday, and maybe have more information. The more I look at it, the more I notice little things, Like the lower control arms are nor perfect mirror images of each other. I think Im going to build in some extra adjustment points so I can make sure this thing is aligned right when the time comes.

      In the mean time to boost my spirits and confidence, I started the cross member pass throughs, and started filling holes. I think Im going to remove the crooked cross member (I think it was for the carrier bearing), and add the new one I made. Actually, Im pretty sure its too tall, Ill have to make a shorter one, But I like it, and itll look good under there.

      Im going to spend some time cleaning the frame up too. It looks worse than I thought.

      1st- Rear side of the pass throughs. The wiring, fuel lines and brake lines will go through these.
      2nd-Front side. These will get welded and smoothed.
      3rd- A hole we accidentally cut before and left for later. Well, its later so I fixed it.
      4th-I know the picture sucks. The anti-dive angle is 5 degrees, and the caster is around 4-1/2.
      5th-This side is doing okay. Ill deal with the upper shock mounts later as well. The other side is fighting me.

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    4. #224
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,423
      Country Flag: United States
      If it helps any, your welding is better than when you started.

    5. #225
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
      If it helps any, your welding is better than when you started.

      Haha. Thank you. I still have a way to go, but I think it is getting better. I need to start practicing with the TIG next.

    6. #226
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      I decided to put my head down today and either fix this, or make a decision. I think it turned out great. My welds are still lacking a bit, but they are burning in nice. They arent the straightest, and my speed still needs work, but this isnt going anywhere. I measured and remeasured and everything is within 1/16th on the tape measure, and the angles are all well within 2 tenths of a degree. The upper control arm mount angle (anti-dive, what started this whole problem) is within 5 hundredths.

      I need to order the stuff for the a-arms. Im also going to have to buy either a bender, or a die for the bender at work. Ill use 1-1/4 tube, so the die is about $250. The bender is about $400, but Ill have it for later. Im not sure what to do. I have already picked out my tube ends, and the rod ends as well, just have to order it all.

      I need to add some caster adjustment in the upper mounts. Im thinking of making them like the ones from SPC. I can get all the parts, I just need to make sure they will work. Then I need to make a decision about the cross member. And then about the trailer hitch.

      1st-Side profile. They match pretty good now.
      2nd-Everything is nice and level, except the bumper.
      3rd-Drivers side. Ill grind the welds down and smooth everything.
      4th-Passenger side.
      5th-These are the SPC uppers. I can buy all the parts to make them.

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    7. #227
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      Still messing around to see what I like. I have made several changes, some will stay, some wont.

      The upper shock mount hoop I really like. Ill tie this in to the top of the upper a-arm mount. It should work well. This will also allow me to make the inner fender wells go around this hoop. Then Ill make a small closeout for inside the hoop to block off the engine compartment.

      I also moved the battery to the opposite side. I like the mount I made pretty good, but I felt it needed to be on the other side for a little weight distribution. Its not much but itll help even things out.

      I removed the carrier bearing cross member, and welded in the boxing plates. Then I tacked in the cross member I made...and its not going to work. The short story is, my wife loves driving my Charger R/T. This started a discussion about the future engine we are going to put in the truck. I explained the cost of installing a 5.7 hemi, with a T56, and the benefits and we talked about it for awhile. She agreed it would be worth it, if we can afford to do it in the future. So, thats going to be the direction we are planning to go. The T56 will be quite a bit longer than the NP435. So, Im going to remove this cross member, and weld in some angle down the sides of the frame. Then I can bolt in a cross member. When the time comes, I can remove or relocate the driveshaft loop, and add a tail cone mount for the T56.

      1st- The cross member that has to come out. I like it, but it need to be removable.
      2nd-Tig practice. Im not dipping the tungsten every pass now, but I have a long way to go.
      3rd- Last pass of the day. Started out pretty good, then went south. I went right to left.
      4th-The upper shock hoop. Ill tie this in with the top of the a-arm mount. Should be very solid.

      I started playing with the TIG welder today. Its just a cheap Lowes welder, but it does good. There is no pedal, so I have to get the amp setting just right before I start. I am getting better, but its a slow process for me. I made a few decent welds with it, but nothing to brag about. If I cant get it looking better, I may just tack together the A-arms, and pay a professional to weld them. Better safe than sorry on those.

      I still need to finish the cross member pass throughs, but I wanted to get some other things going first. When I get all of this finalized, I flip the frame over and weld everything from the bottom too. Then we can paint the whole thing.



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    8. #228
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,423
      Country Flag: United States
      May I suggest that instead of a T56 you consider the TKO. When you compare dimensions, that will help make your decision. One other thought: a few parts on a 360 will make an easy 400 hp. The 5.7 conversion is pricey. It might be worth your time to look at the 360 magnum with some improvements. It may not be a good solution but if you look at all the choices, you shouldn't have any regrets.



    9. #229
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
      May I suggest that instead of a T56 you consider the TKO. When you compare dimensions, that will help make your decision. One other thought: a few parts on a 360 will make an easy 400 hp. The 5.7 conversion is pricey. It might be worth your time to look at the 360 magnum with some improvements. It may not be a good solution but if you look at all the choices, you shouldn't have any regrets.
      I have not compared the T56 and the TKO directly. I have the space for it, its just an issue of making the transmission mount, and of course, the money. As for the 5.7 hemi, yes they are pricey. But a well built 360 with fuel injection and heads to make the 400 hp will be close to the cost of a pull out 5.7. Isaac was adamant about putting in a modern engine, but he wanted a hellcat 6.2, which will never happen. The real deciding factor will be the budget. Im trying to keep options open, and plan accordingly. It might have the little 318 forever, and that would be okay too.

    10. #230
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      It was a busy day of welding and grinding. I am trying to get all the grinding done before the weather gets really cold. So I filled some holes, and worked on the pass throughs.

      As far as the pass throughs are concerned, Im going to leave them like they are. I am not worried about a few small pin holes here and there. I will cover all the frame gaps with seam sealer, or something like it, before paint. Its not a show truck, so welding and grinding everything until its perfect doesnt make sense. Plus I just dont have the skills yet. Itll be good enough for a nice driver.

      The hole filling went well. Im not going to fill every little hole either. Im just not that worried about it. I will work on the front suspension more. I have to make it presentable before paint.

      Then after Im happy with the top, Im going to flip it over and weld everything on the bottom. I think I can finish the top with another good solid 8 hour day, then it can be flipped over.


      I got the pictures out of order, so sorry about that.
      1st- Plug all welded up
      2nd-The plug, made from 3/16" plate
      3rd- All ground flush
      4th-The hole. I think it was for the steering.
      5th-Front face of the driver side rear passthrough. This will face forward, but be under the bed.
      6th-Rear face of the drivers side forward passthrough. This is rear facing, under the drivers feet.

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    11. #231
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      I have been busy cleaning the frame. Not a lot of pictures, but it is a lot of work. I have swept up probably 4 or 5 dust pans full of dust, rust, cut-off wheel debris, and all sorts of nasty stuff. Its a mess. I think I am finished now though. I got the frame flipped over, and finished some of the welds on the bottom because Im not good enough to weld overhead without screwing it up and burning myself. I have wire wheeled the whole frame, and actually scraped all the grease off of it. I finished the pass throughs, and the hitch mount. Ill post more pictures when its painted and ready for re-assembly. Im going to use some seam sealer and smooth out some things as I go. It should look pretty good.

      Flipping the frame was a bit sketchy, but I got it. Ill post more pictures with details when its painted.
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    12. #232
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,423
      Country Flag: United States
      Good progress.

    13. #233
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      Ive been gathering parts and supplies for a few weeks, getting ready for a few long weekends around Christmas and the new year.

      Got the bottom of the frame done and flipped it back over. I started seam sealing the frame in some areas, Im hoping itll come out okay. I also got the gas tank- its a 22 gallon tank for a 70 mustang. I took a chance, hoping it would fit. I didnt feel right putting in a 15 or 16 gallon. They seemed small. I searched and measured, and just took a chance. I know the topic has been covered, and I did multiple searches, sweptline forums and on google. I also knew to look at the mustangs, but I couldnt find a specific year, or size. Either way, it fits. The picture shows it on top of the rails, but it will be mounted to the bottom. I dont want to pull the bed to remove the tank. I also got the tow hitch/jack point welded up. I know its overkill, but I would rather overkill it than under do it and hurt someone. Ill also post a picture of the new bar ends that will go on the a-arms. I went ahead and got the bigger ones, so these are larger than what the suspension had originally. And these are forged.

      Ill finish the seam sealing soon, and start painting, after I get the tank mounts fully installed. Then I have to make the a-arms. Ill do a detailed list when that happens.

      Ill show more details of the pass throughs when Im finished with them. And in case anyone is wondering, Im raising the bed floor about 4-5 inches, so Ill put a gas filler in the back. Ill have to lower the tailgate to fill up, but I dont like the hole in the floor. It should work out good, and be in the middle, so I can fill up from either side.

      1st- One of the pass through for lines and wiring. Itll look better when Im done.
      2nd- 22 gallon tank from a 70 mustang. Ill raise the bed, and make a filler in the end.
      3rd-Jack-point/tow hitch mount. I have a few more welds to add, but its basically done.
      4th-new beefier bigger rod ends for the a-arms. I hope to start them early next year.
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      Last edited by drummerdad; 12-18-2021 at 02:10 PM. Reason: spelling

    14. #234
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      Didnt get much done over Christmas. I spent time with the family, and waited for more parts to come in. I did get the bars bent and cut for the a-arms. I only have one set finished, but I hope to get the rest done this week, and maybe start welding them up this weekend. I also got the gas tank installed.

      This is a new chromebook, so I need to figure out how large to make the pictures.

      The tank drops down about as far as the tow-hitch/jack point. Also, Ill add gussets at the ball joints before Im done. The lower needs a shock mount also, but I havent figured that out yet.
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    15. #235
      Join Date
      Oct 2015
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      That tank fits really nice.
      My half a$$ed build thread.https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...elle-6-0-4L60E

      Tighten it till it strips & back it off a quarter turn.

    16. #236
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      Quote Originally Posted by Alwhite00 View Post
      That tank fits really nice.
      I think so. If it was 1/32" wider, it wouldnt fit. I totally guessed and it worked out.


      Made some good progress this weekend. Im trying to get the heavy grinding and welding done before the weather turns. It has been nice and sunny here in Tennessee, with a little rain here and there. But I can still open the garage doors and let it air out.

      Started on the driveshaft loop/cross member. Its tacked together for now. Ill put the engine and transmission in before I finalize it. The lower half comes off and still has room to be shortened, which Im sure it will need. Ill bolt it to the top.

      The front suspension is coming together pretty good I think. I have the A-arms welded for the most part. I need to add the gussets and the shock mounts. I have to do both lower shock mounts to get an idea of how the top ones are going to go. So, Ill take some 3/16 plate to work and cut it on the big band saw. I already have the templates made. Then Ill tack them in, and look at the top.


      I started looking into suspension travel. I looked at QA1s website and they recommend about 4 to 5 inches of compression, and 2-1/2 to 3 inches of rebound. I put the a-arms on and it hit the frame way before 3 inches of rebound, so I also cut a relief in the frame. I guess I should have just narrowed the frame up front. Actually, knowing what I know now, I should have done a front clip swap. Oh well...live and learn.

      Anyway, problem solved, and everything seems to work as expected. I still have some work to do on the a-arms, but Im confident the frame is good now. I just need to finish seam sealing a few places, and paint it.

      Im trying to make a big push and see if I can be back where I was last spring, with the truck together and running.




      Top left-Driver side temporarily bolted in. It all seems to work well so far
      Top right-Lower shock mounts. I changed them a little after this. Also ths a-arm is upside down here.
      2nd row left-Passenger side. You can see the relief here. There is plenty of clearance now
      2nd row right-Part of the process. It was messy, but it worked out just fine.
      3rd row left- The spindle after reaming for the K772 ball joints. They fit pretty good.
      3rd row right-Cross member and upper half of the drive shaft loop.
      Bottom- The drive shaft loop complete. I will bolt the lower half on. I can also shorten it quite a bit.
      Attached Images Attached Images              
      Last edited by drummerdad; 01-01-2022 at 02:16 PM. Reason: format

    17. #237
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,423
      Country Flag: United States
      The winter weather shut me down so I'm aware of what your against. I understand your motivation, also. You're doing well.

    18. #238
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      Okay, so a few more hours and I got the lower shock mounts tacked in. I didnt beat the weather like I had hoped. Its been in the low 20s here, so the garage is cold, but its insulated a little, and I can run a heater. Im also super busy this month with work and church, so Its going to be slow.

      Anyway, I got the lower shock mounts done, and Im happy with them. I have the templates made for the uppers and the gussets for the upper a-arms. Ill try and finish this by this Saturday, but I have a crazy week ahead.

      After these parts are done, I can finish welding them, and then finish the seam sealer, then its time to paint the frame. Im excited to see it all clean and neat again. Im ready to get this thing back together.

      Top left- Upper mount template. They will be made from the same 3/16 plate I have been using.

      Top right- Same side, looking forward. I tied them into the upper a-arm mount also. Should be plenty strong.

      Bottom- Straight down. This was a little tricky. The frame tapers in so I matched the bar to that angle. The shock mounts need to be straight over the bottom mounts. I got it though, and I think it looks good.
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    19. #239
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      I got about 6 or 7 hours in the garage today, trying to beat this latest winter storm. Got everything accomplished I wanted too, so its a good day.

      I started this week by trying to cut the upper shock mounts on our saw at work. It was doing it, but it was taking forever. The blade might be dull, and I know 3/16 plate is no joke, but it was like an inch every 2 or 3 minutes . Anyway, I gave up on that, and used the plasma cutter. Im getting better with it, so Im not melting the tip every time I use it, and Im getting closer to my lines. There is still quite a bit of clean up afterwards though.

      So I got those made, and installed them. Then I finished welding the control arms up. Ill have some small pin holes to go back over, but for the most part they are done. Ill be taking them to work this week to clean them on break and lunch. I have small angle grinders there that do a good job at the detail work.

      I also have some clean up on the frame at the upper mounts, but I am happy with it. I got the fuel sender/float today, and removed the original tank yesterday. Im close to painting the frame, hopefully I can start that in the next week or two.


      Top left- Upper shock mount roughed in
      Upper right- Finished upper mount. Still needs clean-up
      Middle left-Control arms ready for final clean-up and paint
      Middle right-View looking forward. I like it. I think itll work out good.
      Bottom- Another angle while roughed in (the order is all weird)


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    20. #240
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      210
      Finally got a break in the weather to paint. I have to do it outside because the fumes are so strong it makes everyone sick. I found that out the hard way last time...
      Anyway, I missed a few spots and ran out of paint. Ill order more tonight and maybe Ill get to finish this weekend. Looks a ton better.
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