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    Results 201 to 220 of 230
    1. #201
      Join Date
      Nov 2019
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      22
      Country Flag: United States
      On the other hand, I'm no expert but, on some of these vehicles, with all rubber bushings, I can possibly see 1.4 degrees difference in certain situations. How much of a problem is it? How much do you plan on racing it?

    2. #202
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      Im not racing it at all. Its going to be a cruiser, that might see spirited mountain driving, but not a lot of that. I have no idea if its a big problem. Ill put the truck together and see how it acts when I drive it.

    3. #203
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      Back on the truck again. Ive been working overtime to finish some stuff at work, and its calming down now. Plus I dont want to rush this and make more mistakes.

      I finished the modifications to the upper A-arms. I ended up adding about 1/2" of length to the arms, and that will leave about 3/8" of adjustment for camber. The picture that is posted doesnt show this, but I ended up changing it before welding. I MIG welded them together, and during cleanup, I didnt like the way they looked, so I took the TIG welder back over them to clean them up. I am getting better with the TIG, as long as I dont have to add filler rod. If Im on a flat plate, I can add filler okay. Its when Im trying to put two pieces together while adding filler rod that it gets ugly. Ill keep working on it.

      I changed the way Im going to beef up the tow hitch also. Before I completely weld it up, Im going to check the bumper fitment. Then Ill add the support, box the bottom, and add the tie bars in. But Ill check before welding it all up. See, Im learning.

      Im having a fit trying to get ball joints for this kit. I posted earlier that two of them seem bad straight out of the box, and the rubber boots were torn. So I went to Advance auto to try and get them. No luck. We ordered some, but they are press in, and I need screw in. I also struck out on a gas cap. The original let fumes into the garage after I put gas in the tank. So I ordered another one, but it doesnt fit. Ill keep looking for a gas cap and ball joints boots.

      Im still looking at horns, since the original blew apart. I want something that sounds good and loud, but I dont want an air horn or one of those train horns either. Ill have to figure out the cooling fan too. Plenty of work. I think if I had the suspension in, and the brakes bled I could move the truck under its own power in a few days of solid work. I havent touched the brakes, because the suspension was coming back out.

      1st picture-welding practice. The fusion welding is doing okay, but adding rod is like wizardry. Ill keep practicing.
      2nd picture-Hitch support. Ill add some plate to box the tube on the bottom, and add some tubes for a tie in.
      3rd picture-Ignore the ruler. I changed the dimensions anyway.
      4th picture-A-arms cut and ready to weld.
      5th picture-Finished a-arm.


      Attached Images Attached Images          

    4. #204
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,307
      Country Flag: United States
      I want to make a suggestion based upon my past exp. I would only use Moog ball joints. I think what you are looking for is a K772

    5. #205
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      I bought 4 moog K772s and they dont work. They are supposed to be threaded, but they arent. I have looked and looked, and I can get the balljoints from Helix, but they are $80 each. Im not sure what Ill do about it. Im still working on it.

      I did find a place that might have the boots. I might contact them and see if they have a measurement.

    6. #206
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,307
      Country Flag: United States
      Does this look correct?
      https://www.ebay.com/itm/330401881395

    7. #207
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      That looks like what I ordered from Advanced auto. Im posting a picture.

      The one on the left is the K772 from Advance. But its 1.818 at the top next to the thread. The old ones in the kit are 1.768 in the same location. They seem to be very close, but the new ones will not go in the a-arms, and the boots will never fit. Ill go to NAPA soon and see if they can help. They have been very helpful. If you get the right old guy in there, they are a wealth of knowledge.
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    8. #208
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      Even NAPA couldnt help. I tried the K772s and they are too big. I have a set of K727s on the way, but I think they are even bigger. Its probably some kind of toyota or nissan part, something foreign. Either way, 2 of them are bad out of the box, and the boots are ripped also. Helix (who makes the IFS kit) sells them, for $90 each but Im not sending them any more money. Plus they have ground all the part numbers off (or paid to have them made without the numbers) so you cant source any of these parts. Shady.

      Im thinking of just replacing the a-arms, or rebuilding them entirely. I can get a-arms, but there is no guarantee they will work with my spindles. And it would be between $500 and $1000 to do so. I would have Moog replaceable ball joints then, and better quality control arms. Or I could get the balljoint and sleeve kit from Speedway. They have them for K772s and K727s, and I could just cut and weld them in place. I think if I go that far, I might just build a completely new set of A-arms. It wont fix all the issues, but its another step closer.

      Im about 2 or 3 more problems away from just pulling the truck back apart, and cutting the entire IFS out. I can get a Welder Series cross member for about $400, and make some a-arms. I just know if I do this, Im going to go way too far, and fix EVERYTHING thats wrong, and the truck will be another 5 years in the making.

    9. #209
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      437
      Country Flag: United States
      Have you tried contacting MOOG directly? Mic the hole, measure the thread count per inch, send them a pic and ask them for a recommendation.
      2021 Durango R/T
      2008 Colorado beater
      2003 Dakota project-o-mobile

    10. #210
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      I considered it. I also considered going to an alignment shop and having them help. They probably see a lot of ball joints. As much trouble as I have had out of this, Im almost happy I have to make control arms. I read a few reviews about the corner killer helix kits, and the control arms are always an issue. I beefed up the questionable cross member areas to a point Im confident they wont fail. The control arms are another story. I had already planned on another set of control arms in the future just to be safe. It looks like this is what I will be doing. Im going to dig deep into this, and find the geometry for the arms, and the parts, and figure out a few other things.

    11. #211
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      Its been a few weeks since I posted last. I have been struggling with a decision. I have talked to my wife, and sent some emails, and done a lot of research on the subject, and I think I know what I have to do....

      The Helix IFS has just been a battle. Every fix I throw at it reveals another problem. No replacement part numbers, no identification, lousy installation instructions, bad parts, questionable quality...I would hate to fix this truck, and crash it on a road trip. The point of the truck is to drive it. It was never meant to be a trailered pampered show truck. The intention was always to build a nice truck that can be driven long distance without issue.

      I have wrestled with the decision, but I think I have to replace the IFS, that I bought from Uncle Jimmys Jalopies. There are several issues with it still, and there are a few things I skipped doing on the frame while I had it apart because I was rushing, and couldnt depend on the help I had then. I have talked through it with my wife, and studied as much as I can. I bought some metal plate, and some other things I think I need, like a full bottle of gas for the MIG.

      Here is the plan;

      Ill pull the truck back down to the frame. Im going to fix the frame short comings. Rivets to remove, holes to fill, re-route some things, and completely box the frame, not just a half attempt. This will lead to some changes in brake lines and wiring. Along the way Ill install the Welder Series Mustang II, and Ill record all the part numbers and progress. Ive emailed Paul Horton at Welder Series, and he has been a great help so far. It looks like Ill be trying Speedway dropped spindles (they should use the K772 ball joints), and about any tubular control arms for coil overs. I havent worked that far ahead yet. Ill start with the spindles, and go from there.

      This time when I put the truck back together, I will not worry about time (I hope). But it will go together slowly, but with the intention of making it right now. I dont want to plan on a later rebuild. If I get the truck running and driving and the body looks like crap, at least its safe and I can drive it.

      This might take awhile. I have to order more parts first and make sure Im on the right track. I also have to move some things around here at the house. I have a storage building to get moved, so I can move parts into it easier. Im also going to get the ford going as a backup. It runs and drives, maybe not very well, but it can be made to run with a little more work.

      I hope it wont take more than a few months to fix this, but it will take what it takes. I feel I have been short changing the build and Isaacs vision for the truck. I know it will never have a hellcat engine, but it can be better. If that means the frame and drivetrain are great but it has crappy body parts and a small 318, thats fine.

    12. #212
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,307
      Country Flag: United States
      Even though it was painful, I believe you made the correct decision. I'm a long ways from you but if I can be of assistance, let me know.

    13. #213
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      437
      Country Flag: United States
      Bummer, but I think you made the right decision when going for reliability and the ability to make roadside repairs over trying to make something you aren't comfortable with work. Sucks to be out the time and money, but it's the best long term decision.
      2021 Durango R/T
      2008 Colorado beater
      2003 Dakota project-o-mobile

    14. #214
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      Its been about 2 months now, but I have been doing things around the house. We got quite a bit done actually. Several things we had been talking about for years. Still have 2 or 3 items to finish, but its been a productive summer. Now Im back on the truck. I just started disassembly again, and should have the truck apart some time next week. Im still having space issues. I just dont have room to store all the parts. But Ill deal with that.

      First thing on the agenda after disassembly is to make the frame modifications- fix the IFS, finish boxing the frame at the cross members, fill holes, remove rivets, etc. Im also going to make pass-throughs at the cross members for lines and wiring, and Im still looking at the battery position. Im also considering installing a gas tank in the rear. I know I previously said I didnt want to do that, but that was because I dont want a hole in the bed floor. It just looks unfinished to me that way. Now I have to raise the bed floor, so it wouldnt be hard to make a gas filler neck in the back. We will see.

      Im not giving a time frame, but I hope to have it going back together by spring, maybe summer. Of course, life has a way of derailing those hopes and dreams.
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    15. #215
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      I got the cab off today, then I spent the rest of the day re-organizing the garage. Its a tight fit. Im trying to keep the cab inside for the winter. I have the cab sitting on the rolling yard cart I used so much last year, but its not gonna stay that way. Im going to have to make a dolly for it so I can move it around easier. And I need to make a stand for the engine and trans too.

      I plan on doing the frame/suspension mods, and fix the frame for good. Its going to be finished and as perfect as I can make it before I start putting it back together. Im also going to rewire it (completely rewire, and Im adding firewall disconnects, and a lot of re-routing), and change the brake line routing. I discovered a few issues with locations and routing when I got it together last time. I have a chance to fix it, so I will. I think Im also going to fix the firewall holes and do a few other things also. Gas tank, new battery mount, maybe replace a crossmember or two.

      I would love to fix the floor also, but man thats like $2k for the whole floor metal kit. I might see if a local shop can do it, while its off, but Im just not sure. It needs it, but I dont want this thing being apart for 5 years.

      Here are some pictures. I still have to move some things out of the garage, and make room for the engine/trans. It looks like I have room, but its a two car garage, and its gonna get tight.
      Attached Images Attached Images        

    16. #216
      Join Date
      Nov 2019
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      22
      Country Flag: United States

      Floor repair

      How much of the floor do you need? The whole thing or just under your feet? Check out Exilinecustomauto.com. Some of the parts may be out of stock right now and it takes a little bit to restock ‘cause he makes the parts. But take a look and see what he’s got.

    17. #217
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      Thats who I was looking at, but I overshot the price. Its about $1500 for the whole floor, including the steps. But I would have to have help putting that all in. Im sure I could cut it right and weld it in, but I dont know how to remove the old stuff (where do you stop?) and I dont know how to make sure its all square.

      I might not need the whole floor, but thats where I need an expert to help. I would be happy to get the firewall and the floors done, then work on the rest later.

    18. #218
      Join Date
      Nov 2019
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      22
      Country Flag: United States
      Yea, it can get involved very quickly. Usually once you start cutting you find more. I was lucky, mine was just the driver's foot well. But if it gets into the rockers it's a much bigger job. If you have to cut out most of the floor, then you need to add supports to the cab to keep it straight. Unfortunately, if you don't fix the foundation, the rest is not gonna last. But it won't be cheap. Good luck with it

    19. #219
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,307
      Country Flag: United States
      Winter is not our friend. Many share your circumstances.

    20. #220
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      187
      I made a short dolly for the cab and put little bitty furniture dollies under it, so I could move it around. Now I have to make an engine cradle, and a stand for the rearend. Ill start moving some of the parts out to the building tomorrow. I wanted to build the cradle today, but the dryer is being used, so I warned everyone to be finished with laundry today, so I can weld tomorrow.

      I did get the engine and transmission out, and rolled the rear axle out. I put the frame in roughly the position it will be in at ride height. Im not 100% sure on the rear end of the frame, but the tires are 28" tall, and I set the front at 14" to center of the spindle. I know it had a slight rake to it, so it should be close.

      Goal for tomorrow is the engine cradle, move the tires and exhaust out to the building, and finish removing the parts from the frame, like fuel lines, brake lines etc. Ill fill a bunch of holes, and start the other frame mods next. Ill take a bunch of measurements so I can get the right parts for the fix.

      - - - Updated - - -



      By the way. Some of the welds were horrible, I know. I was going to have a friend come over and re-do some. Now Im going to fix other things, so Ill make sure they are all good first, then paint the frame for good.
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