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    Page 11 of 11 FirstFirst ... 6 7 8 9 10 11
    Results 201 to 210 of 210
    1. #201
      Join Date
      Nov 2019
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      17
      Country Flag: United States
      On the other hand, I'm no expert but, on some of these vehicles, with all rubber bushings, I can possibly see 1.4 degrees difference in certain situations. How much of a problem is it? How much do you plan on racing it?

    2. #202
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Im not racing it at all. Its going to be a cruiser, that might see spirited mountain driving, but not a lot of that. I have no idea if its a big problem. Ill put the truck together and see how it acts when I drive it.

    3. #203
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Back on the truck again. Ive been working overtime to finish some stuff at work, and its calming down now. Plus I dont want to rush this and make more mistakes.

      I finished the modifications to the upper A-arms. I ended up adding about 1/2" of length to the arms, and that will leave about 3/8" of adjustment for camber. The picture that is posted doesnt show this, but I ended up changing it before welding. I MIG welded them together, and during cleanup, I didnt like the way they looked, so I took the TIG welder back over them to clean them up. I am getting better with the TIG, as long as I dont have to add filler rod. If Im on a flat plate, I can add filler okay. Its when Im trying to put two pieces together while adding filler rod that it gets ugly. Ill keep working on it.

      I changed the way Im going to beef up the tow hitch also. Before I completely weld it up, Im going to check the bumper fitment. Then Ill add the support, box the bottom, and add the tie bars in. But Ill check before welding it all up. See, Im learning.

      Im having a fit trying to get ball joints for this kit. I posted earlier that two of them seem bad straight out of the box, and the rubber boots were torn. So I went to Advance auto to try and get them. No luck. We ordered some, but they are press in, and I need screw in. I also struck out on a gas cap. The original let fumes into the garage after I put gas in the tank. So I ordered another one, but it doesnt fit. Ill keep looking for a gas cap and ball joints boots.

      Im still looking at horns, since the original blew apart. I want something that sounds good and loud, but I dont want an air horn or one of those train horns either. Ill have to figure out the cooling fan too. Plenty of work. I think if I had the suspension in, and the brakes bled I could move the truck under its own power in a few days of solid work. I havent touched the brakes, because the suspension was coming back out.

      1st picture-welding practice. The fusion welding is doing okay, but adding rod is like wizardry. Ill keep practicing.
      2nd picture-Hitch support. Ill add some plate to box the tube on the bottom, and add some tubes for a tie in.
      3rd picture-Ignore the ruler. I changed the dimensions anyway.
      4th picture-A-arms cut and ready to weld.
      5th picture-Finished a-arm.


      Attached Images Attached Images          

    4. #204
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,289
      Country Flag: United States
      I want to make a suggestion based upon my past exp. I would only use Moog ball joints. I think what you are looking for is a K772

    5. #205
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      I bought 4 moog K772s and they dont work. They are supposed to be threaded, but they arent. I have looked and looked, and I can get the balljoints from Helix, but they are $80 each. Im not sure what Ill do about it. Im still working on it.

      I did find a place that might have the boots. I might contact them and see if they have a measurement.

    6. #206
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,289
      Country Flag: United States
      Does this look correct?
      https://www.ebay.com/itm/330401881395

    7. #207
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      That looks like what I ordered from Advanced auto. Im posting a picture.

      The one on the left is the K772 from Advance. But its 1.818 at the top next to the thread. The old ones in the kit are 1.768 in the same location. They seem to be very close, but the new ones will not go in the a-arms, and the boots will never fit. Ill go to NAPA soon and see if they can help. They have been very helpful. If you get the right old guy in there, they are a wealth of knowledge.
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    8. #208
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      Even NAPA couldnt help. I tried the K772s and they are too big. I have a set of K727s on the way, but I think they are even bigger. Its probably some kind of toyota or nissan part, something foreign. Either way, 2 of them are bad out of the box, and the boots are ripped also. Helix (who makes the IFS kit) sells them, for $90 each but Im not sending them any more money. Plus they have ground all the part numbers off (or paid to have them made without the numbers) so you cant source any of these parts. Shady.

      Im thinking of just replacing the a-arms, or rebuilding them entirely. I can get a-arms, but there is no guarantee they will work with my spindles. And it would be between $500 and $1000 to do so. I would have Moog replaceable ball joints then, and better quality control arms. Or I could get the balljoint and sleeve kit from Speedway. They have them for K772s and K727s, and I could just cut and weld them in place. I think if I go that far, I might just build a completely new set of A-arms. It wont fix all the issues, but its another step closer.

      Im about 2 or 3 more problems away from just pulling the truck back apart, and cutting the entire IFS out. I can get a Welder Series cross member for about $400, and make some a-arms. I just know if I do this, Im going to go way too far, and fix EVERYTHING thats wrong, and the truck will be another 5 years in the making.

    9. #209
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      Have you tried contacting MOOG directly? Mic the hole, measure the thread count per inch, send them a pic and ask them for a recommendation.
      2021 Durango R/T
      2008 Colorado beater
      2003 Dakota project-o-mobile

    10. #210
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Posts
      171
      I considered it. I also considered going to an alignment shop and having them help. They probably see a lot of ball joints. As much trouble as I have had out of this, Im almost happy I have to make control arms. I read a few reviews about the corner killer helix kits, and the control arms are always an issue. I beefed up the questionable cross member areas to a point Im confident they wont fail. The control arms are another story. I had already planned on another set of control arms in the future just to be safe. It looks like this is what I will be doing. Im going to dig deep into this, and find the geometry for the arms, and the parts, and figure out a few other things.



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