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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default 1951 Ford F1 Build

    Picked up this 1951 Ford F1. Done a bit of work on it so far but here's the progress! Sorry for some of the sideways pictures!

    It's going to have a flat bed made to fit 2 motorcycles side by side, the motor i will put in it is an old chevy small block out of a c3 corvette because It's free. Going to build a box tube frame with '89 corvette suspension up front and a ford 9" in the rear with a 3 link set up. not sure which trans will go in it yet, but i'll let my available funds decide that later haha

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    Got it home. The rear wheels kept locking up the whole way home!

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    Stripping 'er down. built a simple wooden frame to hold it by the cab corners.

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    Driver's side cab corner almost replaced. More updates soon!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Ozarks
    Posts
    42
    Country Flag: United States

    Default

    Love those 50's Fords!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default Been off the grid, but here's a big update!

    Been a while since i've posted here, so i'll post my progress in a couple posts...

    Had to replace the rear cab corners, inside and outside.

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default Cab Nearing Completion!

    I decided to go ahead and buy the stock replacement floor instead of making one channeled to have the car sit low to the ground. With this floor i'll have the raise the rideheight a bit but it will be on the road sooner!

    I also decided to buy the Direct Sheetmetal 2" recessed firewall. it required some fitment. i needed to weld in 1/4" strip to make it fit the cab as it was too narrow. but even with that it was half a day to install.Name:  Firewall.jpg
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    My Mig welder is brocken so i had to do TIG rosette welds to fill the spot welds. it was a pain in the ass but none the less i am happy with the result


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    The floor fit in with no issues. it wasn't a perfect fit but it is good enough for me!

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    I made sure the the door gap was perfect before i welded in the floor...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default Body Mount Mock Up

    Just wanted to share how i am doing the body mounds in the front...

    I made mock ups from cardboard and made sure they were fitting exactly how i wanted. I then layed each of the pieces out on the table next to a ruler and to a birdseye photo of them. I brought this into Fusion 360 and calibrated it and vectorized it. then i can export as a .dxf and shoot to the waterjet to cut them out and weld them up.

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    Passenger side body mount

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    Driver side body mount

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    Fusion 360 vectorization...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default Beginning the Frame

    So the Frame is going to be a box tube frame built to fit the '89 corvette front clip i have in the front and a triangulated 4 link in the rear.

    Before i go buying material i want to model the whole frame up in Fusion 360 so i can create a cut list and make sure everything mates up as it should without any guess work.



    i Pulled the '74 sbc that i will be using for a temporary power unit. I will mount that motor onto the corvette clip sitting on wheels to take measurements so i know exactly how much i can lower the cab before i start interfering with the drivetrain. So that still needs to be done before i can finalize the frame model but here is what i have mocked up so far...

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    This is the 3D rendering of the frame

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    i was able to use the factory drawings of the cab in order to rough out the geometry quickly

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default Replaced the Front Corner (Again)

    After doing the rear corners, i knew i could do a better job on the driver's side front... so i cut it out and did it again!

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    The door gap is not perfect but this truck is going to be driven, not perfect!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Jonesboro, Arkansas
    Posts
    2,260
    Country Flag: United States

    Default

    I'm impressed that you've got a vertical mill! Welcome aboard.

    Carl Wilson
    1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by minendrews68 View Post
    I'm impressed that you've got a vertical mill! Welcome aboard.
    Thank you, Carl! Wouldn't live without one!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default Failed Attempts...

    Not every panel goes smoothly! I have had two failed attempts at this back panel and wasn't able to get the result i wanted. So i will move on and come back to it later...


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    This was attempt number 2... it was close but i couldn't get the the welds planished back out to get the warpage out of the panel after welding. When i bought the car, there was a panel riveted over the back section to cover it up, so i will just throw that back on and worry about this panel when the list of other **** to do gets much shorter haha


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    i began to finish out the rear quarters, mating them to the floor i installed a few weeks back. just needed to make a flange to spot weld to the floor. Got it tacked in for now and will finish weld soon (yes, my brother put a dent in my freshly formed panel ;) it gives it character)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default Frame Commencement

    I disassembled the corvette front clip that i'm putting in the truck to get some dimensions i need in order to CAD up the frame. i have a rendering of the frame finished. i will order material hopefully this week and get it started!

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    This is the clip i am putting int he truck, it's from an '89 corvette. i originally thought the frame rail had to be horizontal in order to fit in but it turns out the frame rail needs to be 12 deg. facing up towards the front.


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    i modeled it up with the new measurements. should be the final rendering. just need to make a cut list and order the box tubing


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    This is the ride height i'm going for, will be a few inches lower than stock but nothing crazy. i want this to be a go anywhere vehicle

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    38

    Default

    Great project! Love where this is going. Keep it up!
    1951 Ford F1, 1967 RS Camaro, 1979 Firebird Formula, 1979 Trans Am/LS swap.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    sw Kansas
    Posts
    1,134
    Country Flag: United States

    Default

    What wall thickness are you going to use for the main rails?

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
    What wall thickness are you going to use for the main rails?
    I'm using 1/8" wall tubing for the 2x4 sections. the middle 2x6 will be .187 because that's as thin as they go for 2x6

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by FormTA View Post
    Great project! Love where this is going. Keep it up!
    Thank you! Much Appreciated!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    sw Kansas
    Posts
    1,134
    Country Flag: United States

    Default

    I used .125 on mine on the 2x6 but if I had it to do over, I would have used 3/16" on all the frame rails. I would still use 1/8" on cross pieces though. Mine has a stock 4.6 2v in it with a 5 speed. It has 8500 miles with no surprises but for no more weight than you add, I would have liked to have the added strength of the thicker wall material. I don't have access to solidworks or any software such as that so my design was not subject to F.A..

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
    I used .125 on mine on the 2x6 but if I had it to do over, I would have used 3/16" on all the frame rails. I would still use 1/8" on cross pieces though. Mine has a stock 4.6 2v in it with a 5 speed. It has 8500 miles with no surprises but for no more weight than you add, I would have liked to have the added strength of the thicker wall material. I don't have access to solidworks or any software such as that so my design was not subject to F.A..
    I might go with 3/16 on the 2x4 as well to be consistent. The place i get material from only has 3/16 on the 2x6. Why would you have gone thicker, did you notice any flexing or anything to make you change your mind?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default Rear Suspension

    As i am preparing for the frame build, i am realizing all the **** i forgot to take care of that i need in order to build it! One of those being… the rear suspension. I have planned a triangulated 4 link rear with box tube lower control arms and dom round tube uppers.


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    It’s not finished yet, still need to design the upper links on the housing, but it’s designed for a 40” lower arm and a 28” upper. I drew just enough data from the rear end to mock up the links. Getting ready to have these waterjet next week.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    sw Kansas
    Posts
    1,134
    Country Flag: United States

    Default

    I daily drive this truck. It has enough ground clearance to drive off curbs. It has ridetech coilovers on all 4 corners. 4 bar on the rear and a modified camaro front spindle setup on the front. The main reason for my statement was that the frame wasn't as rigid as I wanted before mounting the sheetmetal. There seems to be 2 thoughts on frame design: absolute rigid and flexible. The original frame on most trucks is designed to flex when doing normal duty. With me watching AME and the Roadster shop selling many frames that appear to be quite rigid, I'm speculating that for upper performance duty, less flex can be advantageous. From my drag racing back ground, I know that anything that flexes fatigues and fails. So is it worth a few pounds to shorten the life of the basic frame? If you have access to software that can answer that question, I'd like to know if I'm all wet.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wfo guy View Post
    I daily drive this truck. It has enough ground clearance to drive off curbs. It has ridetech coilovers on all 4 corners. 4 bar on the rear and a modified camaro front spindle setup on the front. The main reason for my statement was that the frame wasn't as rigid as I wanted before mounting the sheetmetal. There seems to be 2 thoughts on frame design: absolute rigid and flexible. The original frame on most trucks is designed to flex when doing normal duty. With me watching AME and the Roadster shop selling many frames that appear to be quite rigid, I'm speculating that for upper performance duty, less flex can be advantageous. From my drag racing back ground, I know that anything that flexes fatigues and fails. So is it worth a few pounds to shorten the life of the basic frame? If you have access to software that can answer that question, I'd like to know if I'm all wet.
    Thanks for the info! The truck looks great!!! If i were to make the frame from .125 wall it would weight about 288 lbs as opposed to 350lbs for 3/16 wall. The weight savings is only about 60lbs so it’s definitely worth it for me as i will be towing around large equipment with this truck!

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    17

    Default Rear Suspension Update

    Been working on the design for the 4 link. They’re pretty close. I made the brackets so they can all be waterjet cut, welded and fit nicely to the frame and axle/housing with good welding joints so they’ll be sturdy as hell. This is with a 40” lower arm and a 28” upper arm parallel to the ground at ride height. It’s got 3” bushings and 1.25” 10ga DOM tube for the control arms. Still have a bit or work to do but it’s getting there



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