Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 12 of 12
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      15

      6.0 Starter grinding on flexplate

      I have a 6.0 engine, 4L80E trans that I believe is a 2001. When I got the engine, the nose cone was broken on the starter. I purchased another starter and it is grinding\hitting against the flexplate when I try to start the car. When I compare the old and new starters, it appears that the previous owner ground down the teeth on the starter in order to get it to work properly (which you can see in the pictures). It also looks like the nose cone was ground down too. The teeth on the starter rest about half way on the teeth of the flexplate. Does anyone know the proper way to fix this? Is there a spacer or something needed? is there a different starter for this engine with a shorter nose cone so it doesn't touch the flexplate until the ignition is turned?

      Name:  20190127_162630.jpg
Views: 3178
Size:  132.4 KB Name:  20190127_162527.jpg
Views: 2546
Size:  135.5 KB Name:  20190127_162447.jpg
Views: 2632
Size:  115.6 KB Name:  20190127_162453.jpg
Views: 2476
Size:  117.8 KB Name:  20190127_162347.jpg
Views: 2312
Size:  142.5 KB Name:  20190127_162438.jpg
Views: 2431
Size:  137.5 KB

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      645
      I've got a L92 with "stock" LS flex plate sitting on my engine stand. From the back edge of the flex plate to the cylinder head casting is 1". Not the bell housing machined edge the cylinder head casting that has 6.2 cast into it.

      The flex plate has a "dish" to it pushing the ring gear away from the block. Could it be possible they installed the flex plate backwards?

      I've done a number of LS swaps with different flex plates/flywheels and never had to skim one for clearance.

      Not an LS expert but I hope this helps.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      15
      Quote Originally Posted by 79 Camaro View Post
      I've got a L92 with "stock" LS flex plate sitting on my engine stand. From the back edge of the flex plate to the cylinder head casting is 1". Not the bell housing machined edge the cylinder head casting that has 6.2 cast into it.

      The flex plate has a "dish" to it pushing the ring gear away from the block. Could it be possible they installed the flex plate backwards?

      I've done a number of LS swaps with different flex plates/flywheels and never had to skim one for clearance.

      Not an LS expert but I hope this helps.
      I found this picture of when I picked up the engine. I looks like it is facing the correct direction.

      Name:  20160318_142014-1.jpg
Views: 2796
Size:  239.3 KB

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Hildebran, NC
      Posts
      992
      Country Flag: United States

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,977
      Country Flag: United States
      Throw a shim between the block and the starter, where the starter bolts up.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      645
      I'll that a look again at my L92. You should be able to bolt up the starter and manually push the starter drive into the flex plate. I don't think skimming the starter dowm will h

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      Traverse City, MI
      Posts
      574
      Country Flag: United States
      So weird. Mine does this same thing. Im using all stock parts for an LQ4 with the exception of the ARP flex plate bolts. It wont grind when starting, only grinds if I hold the key in start for too long. And by too long I mean like a millisecond longer than "started". My thought is the teeth on the starter are slightly larger than the teeth on the flywheel causing it to get hung up in there. Ive gotten shims but havent installed them yet.
      Project thread - https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ouring-Project
      IG - @tc_chevelle


    8. #8
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      15
      Quote Originally Posted by rchaskin View Post
      This does help, Thank You! I may potentially have the short crank and need the spacer. So far, this makes the most sense. I'll look into it.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      645
      That was my first thought that you had an early 6.0 but it looked like you had aluminum heads and I thought they had iron heads. If you need a spacer let me know I think a have one. No charge. Just a few a bucks for shipping.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      15
      Quote Originally Posted by 79 Camaro View Post
      That was my first thought that you had an early 6.0 but it looked like you had aluminum heads and I thought they had iron heads. If you need a spacer let me know I think a have one. No charge. Just a few a bucks for shipping.
      Sounds like a plan. I will let you know. Thanks!

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      Traverse City, MI
      Posts
      574
      Country Flag: United States
      FYI, I have the extended crank and still get the grinding as detailed in my above post.
      Project thread - https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ouring-Project
      IG - @tc_chevelle


    12. #12
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Posts
      15
      I found out that I had the short crank so I installed a spacer. I haven't tried to start it yet but I can tell already that the starter spacing looks a lot better. Thanks guys!







    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com