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    Results 1 to 3 of 3
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      1,192
      Country Flag: United States

      TR6060 swap - clutch disengagement question

      I recently swapped a TR6060 transmission from a 2012 Camaro SS. The transmission came with stock GM throw out bearing/Centerforce DYAD clutch. The hydraulic conversion kit is from McLeod, Pn 1434002.

      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...t/model/camaro

      The issue from day one was I couldn't get the clutch to release without the car sitting, and idle for awhile. The clutch also release normally when the weather was hot/warm. I was certain that there was no air in the system, or leak. The McLeod tech I talked to said I can extend the rod on the master cylinder to take up the slack, per se, but I'm not convinced that's the right way to do it.

      Once every warms up, then it shifts/goes into gear just fine.



      Now the master cylinder leaks so I'm going to replace it with another McLeod 3/4" m/c I have. Any suggestions I go while I have everything apart?
      Tu Ho
      Firebird V2-LS swap


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,975
      Country Flag: United States
      I agree with the McLead tech, just extend the rod to get a little more travel from the pedal. This will give you more travel at the MC, which will also give you more travel at the TOB, and allow for a clean release.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
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    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Houston, TX
      Posts
      1,192
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      I agree with the McLead tech, just extend the rod to get a little more travel from the pedal. This will give you more travel at the MC, which will also give you more travel at the TOB, and allow for a clean release.

      Andrew
      Thanks for the reply Andrew.

      What I meant extending the rod was to lengthen it, so that it pushes against the pedal travel stop; and in turn "preload" the m/c. Hope that makes sense.

      What I forgot to mention was, once I was able to get into gear, the clutch engagement is right off the floor. However, after driving/shifting it for awhile, the engagement moved up to about half way on the pedal stroke. I got a borescope and looked into the bell housing, and did not see any signs of leaks.

      I'm going to put a rebuilt wilwood m/c back today, and tried to vacuum bleed from the reservoir. If that does not work, I may have to drop the trans and look at the TOB.
      Tu Ho
      Firebird V2-LS swap



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