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    Results 1 to 13 of 13
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,081
      Country Flag: United States

      70 c10 long to short (when I get to it)

      Bought this a yr ago just went over my friends house to remove the wheels to get new tires for it.
      Cost me$1000.00 has new rubber and trim parts with it.
      Needs driver rocker, and some floor cancer,but cab is good on roof.350 was rebuilt 20yrs ago from the farm it came from.
      I will shorten it,and still on the fence on coilovers or bags.
      I will be doing s Frame off on this and shooting it the white and gold two tone.
      Attached Images Attached Images        
      72 chevelle.

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,081
      Country Flag: United States
      I got the bed off the frame on Mon.
      Can somebody answer a question for me.
      I'm planning to shorten this long bed but I'm going to change it to the truck arm suspension, will this crossmember work with the trailing arms?
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      72 chevelle.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,081
      Country Flag: United States
      Picked up a swb frame for $200.00 after 4th of July weekend,was in contact over a yr with the guy and finale got it.
      It had some janky repair on the front frame rails,had cracks.
      I vee cut both sides of the cracks and welded them up and ground them smooth.
      I had to source another crossmember.
      I will be c notching the rear.
      Now,bags,coilovers,or drop coils??
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      72 chevelle.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,336
      Country Flag: Canada
      I was pretty sure all 67-72 were cool sprung truck arm suspension. Yes ?
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      584
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by chevelletiger View Post
      Now,bags,coilovers,or drop coils??
      I would say that answer has to do with the intended final purpose of the truck. Personally, I greatly dislike bags, but if you want to lay frame or at least be "super slammed" that is probably the route to go. If you just want more of a cruiser for riding around then drop coils are certainly budget friendly and easy. If you want to do any kind of solid handling, performance, or at least spirited driving then I'll ALWAYS suggest coilovers.

      Nice to have options like this when you are working with a well-supported platform. Good luck!
      '95 F-150 track ready street beast
      Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2011
      Location
      Sevierville, TN
      Posts
      524
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by raustinss View Post
      I was pretty sure all 67-72 were cool sprung truck arm suspension. Yes ?
      A majority were, but not all of them. Typically, Chevys were standard with coil spring rear, and GMCs were leaf spring, but either was an option.
      Matt Kenner

      68 C10 stepside

      If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Slick68 View Post
      A majority were, but not all of them. Typically, Chevys were standard with coil spring rear, and GMCs were leaf spring, but either was an option.
      This. Back in the day, Chevys were the "nice" trucks and GMCs were the "work" trucks. But you could get either setup in either truck.

      You could run drop spindles in the front instead of springs that way you don't compromise the ride quality too much, with drop coils for the rear. Consider getting a longer panhard bar for the truck arms though. From the factory they had a short panhard bar that can cause some rear steer when hitting bumps.
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Location
      Southern Ontario
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: Canada
      Find the article online about how to make that model/era of truck handle by Rob Macgregor

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2011
      Location
      Sevierville, TN
      Posts
      524
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Peter Mc Mahon View Post
      Find the article online about how to make that model/era of truck handle by Rob Macgregor
      You're probably referring to this thread. --> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=419251
      Lots of info, but hard to take it all in at once.
      Matt Kenner

      68 C10 stepside

      If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2011
      Location
      Sevierville, TN
      Posts
      524
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by chevelletiger View Post
      Picked up a swb frame for $200.00 after 4th of July weekend,was in contact over a yr with the guy and finale got it.
      It had some janky repair on the front frame rails,had cracks.
      I vee cut both sides of the cracks and welded them up and ground them smooth.
      I had to source another crossmember.
      I will be c notching the rear.
      Now,bags,coilovers,or drop coils??
      As Sbeck09 mentioned, you need to decide what the end result will be and what you plan to do with the truck when finished. If just a cruiser, I recommend using Early Classic Enterprises drop kits, or taking the next step to the ridetech Streetgrip system. If you're after corner carving performance for track days or autocross, then look into a coilover setup. Just keep this in mind: You get what you pay for!! Buy from someone with a good reputation and proven performance, not just claims. Since you're not too far away, go by and check out TCI Engineering. Ask for Evan or Mario, and tell them Slick sent you. I have no experience with airbags to give any advice.
      Matt Kenner

      68 C10 stepside

      If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      644
      On my 68 C10 I went with the following. I wasn't looking for all out Pro Tour truck more as I describe as Pro-Fun. It handles well and stops well.



      1. Front 2.5" drop spindles modded by "Waytolow" (from the C10 site listed above) for 13" C5 Corvette calipers and rotors. Also Bell Tech 2" drop springs with their shocks. CCP big front sway bar.

      2. The ECE LS mounts didn't play well with my Fbody oil pan. Also the engine mounts should be changed to lower the engine at least 1/2" to reduce the engine angle with a T56.

      3. In the rear Bell Tech 4" drop springs and shocks. 2" spacers for a total of 6" drop.

      4. Rear brakes. 12" 97 fbody rotors and calipers with the e-brake built into the caliper. Fabbed my own brackets.

      5. Rear end. Stock 12 bolt. Moser axles 4.75 bolt circle. Hub ends machined to match the fbody disc hub ID. Auburn Posi.

      6. Depending on the amount lowered the axle trailing cross member opening for the drive shaft needs to opened up for drive shaft clearance. I would do whatever possible to get the oil pan within a 1/4" the cross member or less to get the engine angle reduced.

      Just my.02. Good luck your project.


    12. #12
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      corona,ca.
      Posts
      1,081
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 79 Camaro View Post
      On my 68 C10 I went with the following. I wasn't looking for all out Pro Tour truck more as I describe as Pro-Fun. It handles well and stops well.

      1. Front 2.5" drop spindles modded by "Waytolow" (from the C10 site listed above) for 13" C5 Corvette calipers and rotors. Also Bell Tech 2" drop springs with their shocks. CCP big front sway bar.

      2. The ECE LS mounts didn't play well with my Fbody oil pan. Also the engine mounts should be changed to lower the engine at least 1/2" to reduce the engine angle with a T56.

      3. In the rear Bell Tech 4" drop springs and shocks. 2" spacers for a total of 6" drop.

      4. Rear brakes. 12" 97 fbody rotors and calipers with the e-brake built into the caliper. Fabbed my own brackets.

      5. Rear end. Stock 12 bolt. Moser axles 4.75 bolt circle. Hub ends machined to match the fbody disc hub ID. Auburn Posi.

      6. Depending on the amount lowered the axle trailing cross member opening for the drive shaft needs to opened up for drive shaft clearance. I would do whatever possible to get the oil pan within a 1/4" the cross member or less to get the engine angle reduced.

      Just my.02. Good luck your project.
      Do you have any pics of your c10 stance?
      72 chevelle.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      644
      Pics on thread LS1 short box posted on 11-17.

      For what ever reason I struggle to post pics on this forum.





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