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    Results 21 to 33 of 33
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Jan 2018
      Location
      Saint Louis, Missouri
      Posts
      87
      Quote Originally Posted by ddavisart View Post
      What size fuse are you guys running on the positive cable near the battery?
      There will not be one size fuse that will work in all situations. Look at a late model fuse block and you will probably see anywhere from a 5A fuse to a 150A or more. Each fuse is designed to offer protection in the particular circuit design and each one has it's own characteristics. If you do some searches you will find fuses that may have the same amperage rating but they will have different operating characteristics.

      When designing or adding something like a fuse, circuit breaker, fusible link, and so on, one needs to do the work to figure out the best application. Get it wrong and things will not be protected as they should be.

      I think we all would like an "easy answer" to some things but the more specific one is as to what they want to do will give a better design and results. For example, a stock 60's style GM starter may draw let's say 200A on a 8.5 compression motor and a smog cam installed with minimal cranking compression but if this same starter is used on a higher compression motor with a higher cranking compression it will draw more power. If one were then to possibly swap out and use use a gear reduction starter with a lower horsepower motor it might draw more power than a higher horsepower gear reduction starter assembly and then either or both of these could draw more or less power than the standard 60's GM style starter.

      Jim



    2. #22
      Join Date
      Jun 2015
      Location
      Carlsbad
      Posts
      85
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey Jim, you are right and that completely makes sense. The better question probably would of been how are you determining the battery fuse size?

      I'm not new to cars builds, but definitely have a ways to go when it comes to rewiring/electronics. I'm trying to get there and pick up stuff where I can. I'm in the middle for wiring up my current build based on a Classic Update kit I was pointed to after talking with American Autowire and giving them my car specs. I trust that they steered me the right direction. The kit is pretty complete, well documented and easy to follow but doesn't account for things like master kill switches or remote solenoids keeping the live wire count down. So there is still a good amount to still figure out considering I have quite a bit of modern upgrades (Ls3, ecu, amp gauges...etc). I've been digging through alot of posts, but there is also alot of wrong information out there to make it more confusing. If you got any recommendations on how to dive deeper into this stuff let me know. I have no problem following setups, but I would be lying if I said I fully understood it all.
      Cheers
      Dustin

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Feb 2019
      Location
      Kankakee IL
      Posts
      362
      Some have mentioned using welding cable for trunk mounts. While it will handle the power the rubber shielding on it is not chemical resistant and can disintegrate over time.

      In all my trunk mounts ,and other wiring projects,I've spent a little extra and used large gauge marine cable. It is multi strand for flexibility and has the benefit of the strands being tinned as it's made for corrosion protection.

      And by all means stay away from CCA (CCAW) wire which is a cheaper type of wire made up of aluminum wire clad in a copper coating. Foot per foot it cannot handle the current of the same size copper wire. If the price seems to good check to see if it's CCA.
      Tracey

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
      Location
      Deployed
      Posts
      3,280
      Country Flag: United States
      I found this awesome marine cable on EBay, it’s super flexible and has two layers of insulation. I’m going to swap all my quick car cable out one of these days
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      215
      Country Flag: United States
      300A breaker with valet. Makes an easy disconnect when needed.

      https://www.ebay.com/itm/0-4-Gauge-3....c100005.m1851
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      1970RS Camaro
      Lateral Dynamics, Wilwood, BOZE, Strange Engineering, Alston, Ride Tech, Gen II, FAST.
      Dave Cozzi

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by TheJDMan View Post
      I don't know about starter run-on, but I had to install a diode in the alternator voltage sensor wire in order to stop engine run-on.
      So did I, I was really wondering what was going on the first time I started my car, turned it off at the switch and it kept running....

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
      Location
      Deployed
      Posts
      3,280
      Country Flag: United States
      I’m to the point I need to do something...breaker or fuse...it’s such a hard decision.
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Posts
      799
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by badazz81z28 View Post
      I’m to the point I need to do something...breaker or fuse...it’s such a hard decision.
      Would you rather carry a spare fuse or try to find a replacement breaker when it fails?

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Jan 2018
      Location
      Saint Louis, Missouri
      Posts
      87
      Quote Originally Posted by badazz81z28 View Post
      I’m to the point I need to do something...breaker or fuse...it’s such a hard decision.
      On installs I have done I have used fuse holders with threaded studs that terminated wires connect to and then use ANL fuses. When I'm doing this I normally zip tie a second fuse to the wire so it's handy if needed and then have one cable going to one of the studs long enough to where one could bypass the fuse holder's two studs and have all of the wires connected to one stud. You would be bypassing the fuse BUT could get you by in a pinch.You would also need to keep in the car a wrench for the fuse holder studs.

      Keep in mind there are fuse holders and circuit breakers that clamp onto the stripped end of a wire but this type of connection would be harder to jumper across should one need to do that out in the middle of nowhere.

      Jim

    10. #30
      Join Date
      May 2018
      Location
      way east on a rock
      Posts
      155
      Being around the marine industry my whole life,I have wired cars kinda like boats. Somewhat archaic and not as pretty by PS standards, but the products are bulletproof and proven. This time around I'm reading alot and trying to come into the 21rst century,,,

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Jersey Shore
      Posts
      695
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by JustJohn View Post
      Would you rather carry a spare fuse or try to find a replacement breaker when it fails?
      Most automotive breakers work the same way that the one in your house does... If a quality breaker actually fails, youve got bigger problems.
      So, would you rather flip a breaker switch? Or carry a bunch of Maxi or ANL fuses around (and not every parts store carries these in 100+ Amp)
      -Chris
      '69 Corvette
      '55 Chevy Hardtop
      AutoWorks Middletown, NJ
      @autoworksnj for corvette and shop car pics
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...e-Build-Thread

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Fredericksburg, VA.
      Posts
      3,155
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by badazz81z28 View Post
      I’m to the point I need to do something...breaker or fuse...it’s such a hard decision.
      It's not a hard decision at all, use a circuit breaker! Why would you want to have to carry around a spare fuse? Keep in mind, this fuse would not be like a standard automotive fuse you can pickup at any auto parts store or box store auto dept. Both a fuse and circuit breaker will do the exact same job, the difference is that circuit breaker can be reset which is handy if you are stranded. I just see no advantage to using a fuse.
      Steve Hayes
      "Dust Off"
      68 Camaro

      Given sufficient initial acceleration, even pigs can fly!

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Apr 2016
      Posts
      242
      Following for my project!

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