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    1. #61
      Join Date
      Mar 2018
      Location
      la mesa, CA
      Posts
      237
      Quote Originally Posted by Sbeck09 View Post
      I need some input from you guys again.

      Tonight I want to finally get the chassis totally level so I can hopefully get the suspension sub frames in this weekend. At least close to in. It's sitting on 4 heavy duty jack stands and is close, but not perfect enough. I was thinking I'd shove little steel shims on top of the jack stands to get it perfect and then tack them with the welder so it can't move.

      Outside of a chassis table (hopefully one day I'll get one), what do you guys suggest for being stable while modifying the frame?
      Hey if you check out my build in the early stages I made stands in 8 or so places and welded them to the body. I used a digital level on about every surface I could level off of. I then cut the metal to match the level of my frame and my sloped floor. the car is within .05 degree of level on the entire car. that's as close as could get with a car that had been on the road since 63 and had a hack restoration.

      I love this build keep it up.

      Follow my Instagram
      And my build on here
      check out Opentracker Racing Products


    2. #62
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      584
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for that! And thanks for following along. Is there a particular level that you use? I'm glad you brought it up as I've been meaning to grab a digital angle finder.

      I like you're build btw. I'll go back and look closer at how you got it setup.
      '95 F-150 track ready street beast
      Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram

    3. #63
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      584
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok everyone. I really want some input here. There is no right or wrong answer.

      I'm so torn. I had a productive call with my dad earlier about fitting this S197 K-memeber. His solution was just build my own. Still use the spindles and rack that I have now, but all the rest would be made by yours truly. His logic was that the tubular K-member swap on every generation of mustang is very popular for a reason. It's shown to be lighter and stronger. He feels it would be better fit and stronger plus look cleaner for my purposes. I'm at the point where I haven't welded anything in yet. If I'm gonna change, now is a good time.

      Don't pass this boys. Drop your thoughts. I need ya.
      '95 F-150 track ready street beast
      Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram

    4. #64
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Peoria, AZ
      Posts
      1,758
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey Sean...have you given any more thought into getting a copy of Performance Trends and messing with it? I would think it would be a big help in getting all of the steering geometry optimized if you do decide to start from scratch.
      Lance
      1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car

    5. #65
      Join Date
      Mar 2018
      Location
      la mesa, CA
      Posts
      237
      Quote Originally Posted by Sbeck09 View Post
      Ok everyone. I really want some input here. There is no right or wrong answer.

      I'm so torn. I had a productive call with my dad earlier about fitting this S197 K-memeber. His solution was just build my own. Still use the spindles and rack that I have now, but all the rest would be made by yours truly. His logic was that the tubular K-member swap on every generation of mustang is very popular for a reason. It's shown to be lighter and stronger. He feels it would be better fit and stronger plus look cleaner for my purposes. I'm at the point where I haven't welded anything in yet. If I'm gonna change, now is a good time.

      Don't pass this boys. Drop your thoughts. I need ya.
      I am a big fan of building cool stuff yourself and making stuff work the way you want. If you see my build I am also a big fan of modifying other peoples stuff and making it work. That being said i would make your own and use the aformentioned parts and make it work for you, it would be pretty trick and stll use off the shelf parts. Start cutting!
      Follow my Instagram
      And my build on here
      check out Opentracker Racing Products

    6. #66
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      584
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by SSLance View Post
      Hey Sean...have you given any more thought into getting a copy of Performance Trends and messing with it? I would think it would be a big help in getting all of the steering geometry optimized if you do decide to start from scratch.
      Yes it's been on my mind since we talked. This is a crazy week of course, but next week I'm on vacation so I plan to dig into it more. Thanks for putting that in front of me!

      Quote Originally Posted by Project Bike Truck View Post
      I am a big fan of building cool stuff yourself and making stuff work the way you want. If you see my build I am also a big fan of modifying other peoples stuff and making it work. That being said i would make your own and use the aformentioned parts and make it work for you, it would be pretty trick and stll use off the shelf parts. Start cutting!
      I'm really learning to like your thinking. Haha. It would seem to keep the wear components easy to source and repair just like I want. Maybe I'll make a PVC model for mock up just to see how it would all fit together for cheap. Any tips/pointers in this area? I liked your mock-up wheel stands btw.

      I was looking last night and I really dig the design of the Griggs Racing GR40 setup for S197s. I think I'll use a number of his ideas if I really do this. Keep the input coming!
      '95 F-150 track ready street beast
      Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram

    7. #67
      Join Date
      Mar 2018
      Location
      la mesa, CA
      Posts
      237
      Quote Originally Posted by Sbeck09 View Post
      Yes it's been on my mind since we talked. This is a crazy week of course, but next week I'm on vacation so I plan to dig into it more. Thanks for putting that in front of me!



      I'm really learning to like your thinking. Haha. It would seem to keep the wear components easy to source and repair just like I want. Maybe I'll make a PVC model for mock up just to see how it would all fit together for cheap. Any tips/pointers in this area? I liked your mock-up wheel stands btw.

      I was looking last night and I really dig the design of the Griggs Racing GR40 setup for S197s. I think I'll use a number of his ideas if I really do this. Keep the input coming!
      If making a mock-up helps you then do it. there are some things I like about adapting other stuff to your project. but making your own can be stronger or take into account things they didnt. Are you going for massive set back? Setting pinion angle? custom mounts? Steering interferance and so on and so on.
      Follow my Instagram
      And my build on here
      check out Opentracker Racing Products

    8. #68
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      584
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Project Bike Truck View Post
      If making a mock-up helps you then do it. there are some things I like about adapting other stuff to your project. but making your own can be stronger or take into account things they didnt. Are you going for massive set back? Setting pinion angle? custom mounts? Steering interferance and so on and so on.
      I am a very visual person and I've done most of my fabrication by eye over the years. I'm learning to better utilize computer programs and more accurate measuring tools though. In this instance I know that every measurement is critical to functionality.

      As for the goals, the engine is already totally behind the axle from the factory so I'll be maintaining that with all new mounts to the frame. The biggest hurdle I seem to have to cross here is how low I want the end result. I'm shooting for around C10R low. Only catch is that I'm not doing a custom frame like they did. Basically this K-member only has to set my suspension points and span between the frame rails. I'm taking careful time to make sure that everything functions properly (bump steer, roll center, camber/caster, etc.). That's all why my original idea was the use this oem piece, but I never expected the have to hack it apart so much. So here we are.

      Is that what you were asking?
      '95 F-150 track ready street beast
      Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram

    9. #69
      Join Date
      Mar 2018
      Location
      la mesa, CA
      Posts
      237
      Quote Originally Posted by Sbeck09 View Post
      I am a very visual person and I've done most of my fabrication by eye over the years. I'm learning to better utilize computer programs and more accurate measuring tools though. In this instance I know that every measurement is critical to functionality.

      As for the goals, the engine is already totally behind the axle from the factory so I'll be maintaining that with all new mounts to the frame. The biggest hurdle I seem to have to cross here is how low I want the end result. I'm shooting for around C10R low. Only catch is that I'm not doing a custom frame like they did. Basically this K-member only has to set my suspension points and span between the frame rails. I'm taking careful time to make sure that everything functions properly (bump steer, roll center, camber/caster, etc.). That's all why my original idea was the use this oem piece, but I never expected the have to hack it apart so much. So here we are.

      Is that what you were asking?
      Yep that’s what I was asking. If you have goon that far (farther than I ever have) then no reason to not make it yourself.

      Your mission has been decided no go forward and start making sparks!
      Follow my Instagram
      And my build on here
      check out Opentracker Racing Products

    10. #70
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      584
      Country Flag: United States
      Well plan on me getting going right after the new year. I'm flying up to MD to visit family for a couple weeks, but I will order parts during that time so I'm ready when I return!

      I'm thinking 1.5" x .120 wall DOM for the main K-member and 1.25" x .120 wall DOM for the control arms. Heims to attach arms to the frame and uniballs instead of ball joints. Thoughts? Suggestions?
      '95 F-150 track ready street beast
      Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram

    11. #71
      Join Date
      Jun 2011
      Location
      St. George, Utah
      Posts
      1,629
      Country Flag: United States
      Pretty wicked project going on here. Looking forward to more!
      -Ben, Your friendly neighborhood Rendering dude

      SRD on Facebook

      79 Cutlass wagon build


    12. #72
      Join Date
      Mar 2018
      Location
      la mesa, CA
      Posts
      237
      Quote Originally Posted by Sbeck09 View Post
      Well plan on me getting going right after the new year. I'm flying up to MD to visit family for a couple weeks, but I will order parts during that time so I'm ready when I return!

      I'm thinking 1.5" x .120 wall DOM for the main K-member and 1.25" x .120 wall DOM for the control arms. Heims to attach arms to the frame and uniballs instead of ball joints. Thoughts? Suggestions?
      Tube size for the arms I’m not sure. But hell yes uniballs and Heims all day long. My frame is all .120 wall 2x3. So I’m sure the stronger round tube would be fine.
      Follow my Instagram
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      check out Opentracker Racing Products

    13. #73
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      584
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by SRD art View Post
      Pretty wicked project going on here. Looking forward to more!
      Thanks! Keep an eye out. As you can see this is about to get good.

      Quote Originally Posted by Project Bike Truck View Post
      Tube size for the arms I’m not sure. But hell yes uniballs and Heims all day long. My frame is all .120 wall 2x3. So I’m sure the stronger round tube would be fine.
      I'm sure I'll over build it like I usually do, but at least it won't fail that way.

      Anyone have suggestions for where to get the best price for decent quality heims? I was looking at using Rough Stuff Specialties since they have sets with the tube inserts and spacers that don't break the bank. I'm always down to support vendors that support the forums though.
      '95 F-150 track ready street beast
      Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram

    14. #74
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Peoria, AZ
      Posts
      1,758
      Country Flag: United States
      Have you been to Super Duty HQ there in Chandler yet? It's like a builders paradise...for that kind of stuff...
      Lance
      1985 Monte Carlo SS Street Car

    15. #75
      Join Date
      Mar 2018
      Location
      la mesa, CA
      Posts
      237
      Quote Originally Posted by Sbeck09 View Post
      Thanks! Keep an eye out. As you can see this is about to get good.



      I'm sure I'll over build it like I usually do, but at least it won't fail that way.

      Anyone have suggestions for where to get the best price for decent quality heims? I was looking at using Rough Stuff Specialties since they have sets with the tube inserts and spacers that don't break the bank. I'm always down to support vendors that support the forums though.
      I feel like I'm blowing up your page.

      I used the Ruff Stuff stuff. I was recommended by some off-road guys. they have season's of racing use and still good. A good friend of mine is Dave he does a show called Dirt every day or something like that. he said that he has 7 years on his wheeler\daily driver type thing. I also know that higher end stuff is more reliable and the thought of it failing scares me. but hell off roaders put some serious abuse on thier stuff.

      Are you in AZ? I have family in Chandler and Mesa and travel out there frequently.
      Follow my Instagram
      And my build on here
      check out Opentracker Racing Products

    16. #76
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      584
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by SSLance View Post
      Have you been to Super Duty HQ there in Chandler yet? It's like a builders paradise...for that kind of stuff...
      Never even heard of them. I should have known there would be a 4x4 place locally with this stuff. If they stock heims and inserts, I'll be there real soon. Thanks! I should just start texting these questions directly to you. Haha.
      '95 F-150 track ready street beast
      Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram

    17. #77
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      584
      Country Flag: United States
      Happy new year! Hope you all enjoyed some family time. I know I did for the first 10 minutes. Haha.

      I kept my word and ordered parts for the front suspension build. I am feeling really antsy to get going and see how this goes.

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      This is tabs, heims, uniballs, and all the spacers. Plus I got those rubber boots like the prerunners use to help keep sand from prematurely wearing out heims. Figured it would be a good idea for me too. They were cheap. I'll be using grade 8 bolts in all of it. Lower bolts will be 5/8" and upper 1/2". Should be overbuilt enough.

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      This is what a $1300 gamble on made-to-order headers looks like. These are for a 90's foxbody with a 351w swap and stock everything else. Nobody makes large primary stainless headers for this truck. I am guessing that the little mustang has less room to work with making me good to go. We shall see. Yes I can make my own, but if you've ever done that before you will understand why I'm trying to avoid it. I spec'd 1-7/8" primaries with 3" collectors in 100% 304 stainless. They are produced by American Racing only if you call.

      Also found the new uniform shirt for those of us here in the truck section...

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      Ignore my ugly mug. You know you all like the shirt too. Plus this is an F150 build...

      Question for you fellow fabricators. I want to just use DOM steel tubing for my control arms, but the heim inserts and uniball sleeves are chromoly. I hate to admit it, but I didn't really want to tig these. Everything I can find says I'm good to mig weld steel to chomoly because they are such similar metals (more nickle and heat treated for chomoly). Any experiences to contradict this? I'm heading over to pick up the tubing tomorrow.

      For the record...I prefer steel to chromoly on something like my control arms as steel being softer makes it more forgiving. Chromoly is more likely to break next to a weld. For the unknowns and shock of street driving I see this is a slightly safer idea.
      '95 F-150 track ready street beast
      Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram

    18. #78
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Posts
      188
      Your on the right track. I like your thoughts and ideas. Gonna be a awesome truck!

    19. #79
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      584
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Project Bike Truck View Post
      I feel like I'm blowing up your page.

      I used the Ruff Stuff stuff. I was recommended by some off-road guys. they have season's of racing use and still good. A good friend of mine is Dave he does a show called Dirt every day or something like that. he said that he has 7 years on his wheeler\daily driver type thing. I also know that higher end stuff is more reliable and the thought of it failing scares me. but hell off roaders put some serious abuse on thier stuff.

      Are you in AZ? I have family in Chandler and Mesa and travel out there frequently.
      Sorry for the delay in responding. I must have missed this with traveling. I'm glad you are keeping up and having input. I do the same thing to Frank on his build.

      This is the second round of Ruff Stuff parts I've got. They easily have the best custom 351w motor mounts. Hard to argue with their prices too. And it's funny you bring up DED. I love watching that show on YouTube. I feel like I'd get along well with Fred.

      Yeah I looked at what the cost difference was to go to like FK or QA1 rod ends and the cost was about 3x. Not to mention they don't offer sets with jam nut and insert so that would make more effort for me to insure that I ordered correctly. Your thought that off-road guys are good testers of durability was my thought and Ruff Stuff gets solid reviews. I guess I'll find out. Even if I need to replace stuff each season that's still not bad.

      I'm in north Phoenix. My best friend lives in Chandler so I kinda know the area. Feel free to give a shout if you'd like sometime when you are out here. I'm also expecting to regularly attend events in CA when this truck is done too.

      - - - Updated - - -

      Quote Originally Posted by Frank ZX View Post
      Your on the right track. I like your thoughts and ideas. Gonna be a awesome truck!
      Thanks! I'm trying to overthink it now before money is spent. Hopefully I'll make it to an event your way when it's done.
      '95 F-150 track ready street beast
      Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram

    20. #80
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      230
      Can't wait to see update pictures! I love the shirt also.

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