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    Results 1 to 18 of 18
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Jacksonville, FL
      Posts
      1,651
      Country Flag: United States

      67-69 camaro Nu-relics door wire boot picture?

      I was wondering if someone with Nu-Relic power windows can either post up or send me a picture of the boot placement (where you drill the hole) on the body side. I have the paperwork from Nu-relic and it only shows the door side. Any help or info would be appreciated.

      Chris
      1968 Chevy Camaro SS
      LS3/T56 DSE suspension



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,495
      Country Flag: United States
      There are dimples in the door and door pillar.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Jacksonville, FL
      Posts
      1,651
      Country Flag: United States
      I know that Don but the Nu-Relics instructions say not to use them. The boot has 2 90s in it and the instructions say to drill offset of the factory dimples. Looking for what the correct orientation for them is as a reference. The holes are 7/8" so I don't want to mess it up the first time LOL Thanks!
      Chris
      1968 Chevy Camaro SS
      LS3/T56 DSE suspension


    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,495
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 130fe View Post
      I know that Don but the Nu-Relics instructions say not to use them. The boot has 2 90s in it and the instructions say to drill offset of the factory dimples. Looking for what the correct orientation for them is as a reference. The holes are 7/8" so I don't want to mess it up the first time LOL Thanks!
      Interesting. Maybe they have changed their instructions. Pretty sure I used the factory dimples when I did mine. I would take a pic but I sold the car.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Jacksonville, FL
      Posts
      1,651
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      Here is from the Nu-Relics instructions.
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      Chris
      1968 Chevy Camaro SS
      LS3/T56 DSE suspension


    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2018
      Location
      Saint Louis, Missouri
      Posts
      87
      Chris,

      I think what they want you to do is offset the hole on the door next to the dimple and then on the cowl side have the hole centered on the dimple.



      In the above photo of yours I added a black circle which would be the location of the hole on the door and it looks to be offset inward from the dimple.

      How they have it worded as "Cowl Dimple is factory located in side" just leads me to believe the hole is centered just on the cowl side.

      Just a heads up but after drilling the hole, debur the edges and then paint them.

      Jim

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Jacksonville, FL
      Posts
      1,651
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      Yeah Jim, the cowl side is what I am wondering about. I talked to them on Friday and will have to call them back next week. The person that helped me on the phone told me to check the instructions..... No kidding...... Might try and talk to someone else next time. Will let everyone know what I find out. My car is at a buddy's shop and I am having my hinges rebuilt. Figured it was a great time to drill the holes (while doors were off) so I can install the window motors my self. I am trying to find the right answer the first time ;-)
      Chris
      1968 Chevy Camaro SS
      LS3/T56 DSE suspension


    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2018
      Location
      Saint Louis, Missouri
      Posts
      87
      Quote Originally Posted by 130fe View Post
      Yeah Jim, the cowl side is what I am wondering about. I talked to them on Friday and will have to call them back next week. The person that helped me on the phone told me to check the instructions..... No kidding...... Might try and talk to someone else next time. Will let everyone know what I find out. My car is at a buddy's shop and I am having my hinges rebuilt. Figured it was a great time to drill the holes (while doors were off) so I can install the window motors my self. I am trying to find the right answer the first time ;-)
      How attached are you to those boots ?. The reason I'm asking is I used to deal with a supplier that offered those right angled end style boots and I'm also getting ready to help another friend of mine add power windows into his 68 Chevelle and I suggested to him to get either some original boots removed from that era GM car or get the reproductions that are larger with the inside diameter and require larger holes.

      While the below is a picture of the straight aftermarket boots I installed in a 77 Nova of mine, I also bought a set of factory 1977 Nova power window assemblies and it had the larger diameter straight boots.

      On both cars they had the holes centered on those dimples stamped into the metal surfaces.

      I do wonder with the right angle ones if this might put more or less pressure on the wire concerning flexing. I have had through the years replaced a wire or two in door jambs from the wire being bent from opening an closing the door to where it eventually failed.

      The aftermarket straight boots in my 77 Nova:




      The factory straight boots from a 78 Nova (which has the same door jamb area as the 67-69 Camaro and the 68-79 Nova):





      I think too the reason the factory boots I have for a 77 Nova are the size they are in the overall diameter is to allow the connectors for the switch and motor to pass easily through them to where if you have to take the door on or off things can be threaded through the boots and holes in the metal so maybe look at your connector ends to see if they will pass through the boot they supplied.



      If all else fails and to be on the safe side, maybe hang the doors to mock things up with the fenders off to where you could hold each end of the tube in place and then see how the tube bends when the door is closed and then fully open and then make the decision where the holes actually need to be at.

      Jim

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Jacksonville, FL
      Posts
      1,651
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      Yeah, I am not attached to them at all. I know the drivers side has more wires (than pass side) and I would like to add more wires (factory locks). Any suggestions would be appreciated.
      Chris
      1968 Chevy Camaro SS
      LS3/T56 DSE suspension


    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jan 2018
      Location
      Saint Louis, Missouri
      Posts
      87
      Chris,

      Did you get the boots installed and take any pictures to share ?. Just wondering.

      Jim

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Jersey Shore
      Posts
      695
      Country Flag: United States
      The holes are supposed to be offest in the up and down position. When the holes are placed at the same height door vs jamb, the wires bend everytime you open and close the door. With the offest holes, they only have to twist a few degrees. Makes the wires far less likely to break over time and also prevents the boot from bunching up with the door closed.
      Name:  93olds98029.jpg
Views: 2072
Size:  54.4 KB
      -Chris
      '69 Corvette
      '55 Chevy Hardtop
      AutoWorks Middletown, NJ
      @autoworksnj for corvette and shop car pics
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...e-Build-Thread

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Jacksonville, FL
      Posts
      1,651
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      Jim, no I haven’t had anytime to give an update on my car. Been traveling out of the country lately. Will post something as soon as I can. Hope to have everything done in the next month. Chris, thanks for the photo reference!
      Chris
      1968 Chevy Camaro SS
      LS3/T56 DSE suspension


    13. #13
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Prescott, Arizona
      Posts
      100
      Country Flag: United States
      Installed my Nu Relics boots on Sunday in my 69 Camaro.
      Attached Images Attached Images    

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      Jersey Shore
      Posts
      695
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      Looking at the door jamb design on a camaro you may not be able to offset the boot up/ down... the up/down offset is just how many new cars are setup. Where applicable, I try to mimic this design on customer cars.
      -Chris
      '69 Corvette
      '55 Chevy Hardtop
      AutoWorks Middletown, NJ
      @autoworksnj for corvette and shop car pics
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...e-Build-Thread

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Austin Texas
      Posts
      640
      Whats the part number for the nu relic boots? Did you have to pull the doors or fenders to drill the holes?

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Jacksonville, FL
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      Don’t have the part numbers but the doors were coming off for a hinge rebuild. Seemed like a better time to drill the holes then. Not sure if you can drill the holes from the inside out if the doors are still on.
      Chris
      1968 Chevy Camaro SS
      LS3/T56 DSE suspension


    17. #17
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Posts
      1,853
      For those who did this.. were you able to create the holes without pulling the door off? If so how?
      From a place you will not see comes a sound you will not hear....

      67 Camaro In progress

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...-Tap-67-camaro

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      dallas, tx
      Posts
      1,729
      Country Flag: United States
      Step bite and drilled. Simple





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