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    Results 1 to 18 of 18
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
      Posts
      307
      Country Flag: United States

      At a loss! Vin air sure fit gen iv giving me fits

      I hope VINTAGE AIR TECHS have their reader on for this one.
      68 Camaro GenIV sure fit system
      Using 3 knob billit rotary variable blend / speed/ temp controller and not the original with mods.(does it have to be calibrated to system?)
      SD5 compressor
      Car utilizes dual electric fans 3000 cfm with trinary switch keeps car steady at 205 in 100 plus degree weather.
      Inline aluminum through firewall bulkhead with extended lines routed through fender
      Radiator to core support is foam sealed and pulls hard through closely spaced radiator / condenser / trans cooler

      1st attempt:
      Charged system on 98 degree ambient temperature day
      Evacuated with zero problems 1 hr., held vac no prob 1 hr.
      Used digital scale to load loaded 1lb 12oz as per instructions.
      Charge was loaded with car at 1800 rpm (to simulate cruising speed) 3.42 gears with 26" tall rear tires
      Low side was 30, high side was 275, and center vent temp was 62 degrees
      line on compressor was cold and sweaty

      Second attempt:
      Evacuated 45 min, held vac 45 min
      Loaded freon until gauges read 12 to 15 psi on the low and 175 to 200 psi on the high at 1800 rpm same 95 degree ambient temps
      Line was NOT cold or sweaty
      center vent temps never dropped below 80 degree.

      Third attempt:
      utilizing second attempt continued to load feaon utilizing gauges read 30 psi on low and 275 on the high again
      temps dropped back down to 62 degrees, line was cold and sweaty.

      At one point i pinched off the hot water in line to the core to verify i was not getting hot water bleed by into case, no change in temps whatsoever.
      On all three tests i sprayed water at condenser, head pressure would drop and low side would follow suit, it would cycle out and recover to high low as before.

      Really starting to wish i had gone with a different manufactured system at this point.
      Any clues where to start?
      Used autozone freon stuff with oil and dye mixed in with it if that is of any difference.
      Thinking i might vack the system flush drier and condenser and reload with JUST freon with zero additives such as dye, oil or seal conditioner.
      Last edited by MAGONSTERZ68; 09-07-2018 at 05:24 PM. Reason: additional info

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      DFW, Texas
      Posts
      422
      Country Flag: United States
      Have you tried different gauges to validate the pressure readings?

      The pressure differential should make the temp drop regardless unless you just cant get enough volume of refrigerant through the evaporator for some reason. Like a choked up expansion valve or something.

      You likely have enough oil in the system, only use straight R134a, in my opinion.
      1972 Plymouth 'Cuda - Not LS-swapped, 5.7L Hemi [MS3 Gold Box], T56 Magnum 6-speed - 'Cuda Build Page
      1976 Dodge D100 - Warlock
      2016 Subaru WRX - E30 Tune

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Chit-ca-go
      Posts
      459
      My system has a warning to not add any oil. It only calls for Freon. The correct amount of oil has been added from the factory.
      1971 Firebird
      2017 Slipstream SS

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Tampa FL
      Posts
      97
      Like cpd004 said above, sounds like too much oil..Your compressor should have come already filled.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,487
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Dark Pursuit View Post
      Like cpd004 said above, sounds like too much oil..Your compressor should have come already filled.
      Yep VA compressor is precharged with oil. Do not add oil....

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      239
      Have you verified that the controls are working properly? Have you verified the heater valve is installed in the correct direction, and your damper doors are in the correct position for cooling? You could be mixing hot and cold air and not be straight cold. I would re run the calibration process for the controls.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
      Posts
      307
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by GoodysGotaCuda View Post
      Have you tried different gauges to validate the pressure readings?

      The pressure differential should make the temp drop regardless unless you just cant get enough volume of refrigerant through the evaporator for some reason. Like a choked up expansion valve or something.

      You likely have enough oil in the system, only use straight R134a, in my opinion.
      have not verified against a different set of gauges yet.
      will try evac and fill with straight R134a next.
      thx

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
      Posts
      307
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by oleyeller View Post
      Have you verified that the controls are working properly? Have you verified the heater valve is installed in the correct direction, and your damper doors are in the correct position for cooling? You could be mixing hot and cold air and not be straight cold. I would re run the calibration process for the controls.
      using the billet 3 knob rotary, variable controller all seems to work as it should, do not believe these require any kind of calibration, plug and play, unlike if i were to utilize the original lever system with the conversion kit.
      the heater valve is verified correct flow as well as proper flow from the water pump outlet.
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    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      I'd start from scratch...

      Don't re-use the drier, get a new one as theyre dirt cheap on ebay. You're generally not supposed to flush these things.

      Given how many evacuations and refills you're done, I'd try to empty as much oil out of the compressor as you can.

      Then flush everything individually... hoses, condenser, and evaporator. Remove the expansion valve though... don't flush with this still installed and don't attempt to flush it at all (don't want any debris getting in there).

      Then re-add the correct oil to the compressor.

      Then reassemble the system. Evacuate it and leave it sit overnight to verify no leaks (may seem excessive, but let's be conservative here).

      Then refill the system per vintage air instructions, using only 134a (no oils or dyes).
      1971 Camaro
      GM HT383, MiniRam EFI, AFR heads
      "8-speed" trans (700R4 + Gear Vendors OD)

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
      Posts
      307
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ULTM8Z View Post
      I'd start from scratch...

      Don't re-use the drier, get a new one as theyre dirt cheap on ebay. You're generally not supposed to flush these things.

      Given how many evacuations and refills you're done, I'd try to empty as much oil out of the compressor as you can.

      Then flush everything individually... hoses, condenser, and evaporator. Remove the expansion valve though... don't flush with this still installed and don't attempt to flush it at all (don't want any debris getting in there).

      Then re-add the correct oil to the compressor.

      Then reassemble the system. Evacuate it and leave it sit overnight to verify no leaks (may seem excessive, but let's be conservative here).

      Then refill the system per vintage air instructions, using only 134a (no oils or dyes).
      exactly where im leaning to at this point.......thx

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      I wonder if somehow your expansion valve is malfunctioning or something??
      1971 Camaro
      GM HT383, MiniRam EFI, AFR heads
      "8-speed" trans (700R4 + Gear Vendors OD)

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
      Posts
      307
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ULTM8Z View Post
      I wonder if somehow your expansion valve is malfunctioning or something??
      Im going to replace drier, flush condenser, unplug the heater lines (just inc case), and charger with straight R134a n see what happens.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
      Posts
      2,838
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ULTM8Z View Post
      I wonder if somehow your expansion valve is malfunctioning or something??
      That would show on the gauges.

      Quote Originally Posted by MAGONSTERZ68 View Post
      Im going to replace drier, flush condenser, unplug the heater lines (just inc case), and charger with straight R134a n see what happens.
      Start by just pinching off the heater hoses and see what you get for vent temperature. One thing at a time, let's be methodical.
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
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      307
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      Quote Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift View Post
      That would show on the gauges.



      Start by just pinching off the heater hoses and see what you get for vent temperature. One thing at a time, let's be methodical.
      Does anyone know if the VA Slimline 3 knob variable controller require calibration? I cant find any literature from manufacturer to state either way yes or no.
      Will attempt to calibrate, then disconnect heater hoses and see what test.
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    15. #15
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
      Posts
      2,838
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      It does not require calibration assuming it was ordered at the same time as the unit. If it was, the unit then came with the correct ECU which does not require calibration.

      That control panel will not work with any unit that was originally equipped with a conversion kit for your factory controls.
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      385
      Country Flag: United States
      The other thing you want to ensure is that the fan isn't pulling air from around the condenser instead of through it. The condenser should be in front of the radiator and sealed to the radiator support as much as possible that way air is forced to go through it.
      1971 Camaro
      GM HT383, MiniRam EFI, AFR heads
      "8-speed" trans (700R4 + Gear Vendors OD)

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
      Posts
      307
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ULTM8Z View Post
      The other thing you want to ensure is that the fan isn't pulling air from around the condenser instead of through it. The condenser should be in front of the radiator and sealed to the radiator support as much as possible that way air is forced to go through it.
      great point, it was one of the first things i did, spaced condenser bracket closer to radiator, then completely sealed radiator to core support with dense pvc foam for maximum 3000 cfm pull through rad and condenser, no improvement unfortunately but at least eliminated that possibility, thx

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Sunny Calif
      Posts
      307
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift View Post
      It does not require calibration assuming it was ordered at the same time as the unit. If it was, the unit then came with the correct ECU which does not require calibration.

      That control panel will not work with any unit that was originally equipped with a conversion kit for your factory controls.
      yes, purchase units at the same time, results when tested it controls all as it should be with the possibility was not fully closing hot water valve but Vents, heat/cold, fan speed, is fine, just does not get below 60 :/







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