Poor Hotchkis Sub Connector Fit-up 70 Nova

[Steel409]

Hello all,



I'm in the middle of installing Hotchkis subframe connectors on my '70 Nova SS. I've done everything per instructions and made sure to prep the connectors as best as possible for solid MIG weld penetration. But, once I got the connectors up onto the car, was completely surprised by how poorly the back of the connector fits around the rear frame. Is this typical? I know the instructions say to use a Channel Lock to "bend the rear tab in", but I have no idea how to finagle a Channel Lock in there, and how to MIG weld all those gaps.

At first I thought maybe the car was out of alignment, but the fit-up is the same on both sides; the outboard tab (2 oval holes in SC) fits very, very well. Super annoying that it's behind the leaf spring perch, but it's against the outside of the frame. The inboard SC tab (4 ovals), is tight against the frame at the front, but then grows to a 1/2" gap at the rear.

Is the entire connector not to be welded in? Even if I get the tab bent a little towards the frame, there is still an approximate 1/2" gap at the bottom of the rear ovals on the inboard tab.

Fairly disappointed in this install. There was a LOT more work involved than the directions and their Youtube video on a similar F-body install.

Has anyone installed these on a 3rd gen Nova? Any suggestions to work around this?

Thanks in advance... I'm kind of at a stand-still on how to get these burned in.

[chevelletiger]

I would check to see if there's something on the body that preventing the sfc,from sitting flush.
You may need to grind some metal off the sfc to make it fit flush.
Don t get discouraged I went thru stuff like this too,these cars are not made perfect,and neither are the aftermarket parts.

[badazz81z28]

I’m assuming your talking about the gab on the lower part not sitting flush? Based basically the mouth on the connector is wider then the frame.

[Steel409]

Thanks for the words of encouragement! I'm really concerned with the fit-up in general. I've put a jack under the rear part of the connector to see if I could coerce it closer to the frame, but 1) that defeats the purpose of installing the connector with all weight on the wheel, and 2) it started to lift the car; so I'm confident the connector is serving it's purpose by being on the bottom of the frame.

I'm a mediocre welder at best, but definitely haven't practiced to bridge a 1/2" gap (which is impossible!). I suppose I could try and weld in everything I can that is metal against metal, and at least permanently put the connectors in place, then try to bend the tab in with a Channel Lock / heat, and if necessary, put a piece of angle iron in there to at least give something for the MIG wire to adhere to, to avoid blowing out. Super annoying that I had to drop suspension and leaf perch to grind off areas, reattach, install connector, weld in some (withOUT hitting fuel line or brake line), drop rear suspension, finish weld, paint, etc... Too much up/down with the rear end/leaf spring perches in an amateur garage!

The post was to see if other's had this type of fit-up issues with their Nova and to see if anybody had some good 'fab' ideas!

I've kind of made my bed at this point and am trying to figure out the most efficient path forward to take full advantage of the connectors and not make it look like a "hack job".

Any ideas are welcome! Thanks very much guys and gals.

[rrunner68]

Doesn't look to bad to me. Get the side that is tight welded up and then hammer to fit; paint to match! The directions clearly state to bend in the tab, and it looks like its at least 1/4-3/8" from the pictures. If you're really that nervous about the gap or having a professional weld it in; get a piece of strip steel to slide in and fill the gap.

[Z06vet]

I've had the same gap on 3-4 cars. Its been the norm for me. I was able to use a C-clamp to bend that tab in. Welded along the top seem and the top half of the ovals. Have not had one come apart yet. I have thought about cutting the flange off from the side with the gap, tacking it to the frame rail, then welding the base to the SC. But as you mentioned its already tight in there. I'd get the tab in as far as you can, and roll with it.

[Steel409]

Thanks, all. Your comments are helpful.

I think that's the gameplan at this point; I really have no other choice!

Will give it a shot and see how it goes!

[badazz81z28]

Why not fill that gap with a small block of steel weld it in place off the car, then weld the connector to the frame rail?