1967 Camaro Restomod "Herja"

[TOlsenAK]

More progress on the portion of this build that any chevy enthusiest would consider to be Heresy..... The fabrication work to mount a 2016 Ford Mustang GT rear subframe. This is probably the most unique part of my build, as I've not seen it done before and I didn't want to spend $8,000+ for an independent rear suspension set up (I'm sure I could have done a solid axle 4 link set up for cheap that would have handled much the same), but for $450 bucks, this was a steal.

What you see on the pallet is what I got for that price. Spent another $500 bucks on the full tilt boogie racing bushing kits which you can see here the exact reason mustangs get a bad rep for being attracted to crowds
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7NWX6rZzdg






Clamped up the mini tubs (we had cut along the subframe line since we were going to be making mounts for the 8.8 IRS to mount up) in prep for getting all our measurements





More progress made on getting the rear subframe mounted up, rolled it under the car again and lowered it to get a better idea of where the mounts will be made and installed. I will say its a tedious process of mostly squaring up a 450 subframe, taking measurments, adjusting slightly 1/16 of an inch, remeasuring everything again, repeat....




In order to give ourselves better access to the area, I made the call to cut a good chunk of the trunk pan out that we'll weld back in later, well worth the time it will take to weld it back in and clean up.





Once we had the ballpark area and marked on the frame where we needed the mount points to be (within about 1/8th of an inch on the frame) we stripped everything off the rear subframe. Right now waiting on the mount hardware and full tilt boogie bushing kit to eliminate the nasty wheel hop these rear ends are notorious for. Still probably have another weeks worth of fabrication work once I get the bushings and mount bolts in for the rear, but hopefully by the end of august here I'll have a roller again and can start wheel shopping, which I'm very excited for (though my wallet isn't).

[TOlsenAK]

Well, been a busy fall and now with college back in full swing, haven't had much time to work on the car. Right now its still sitting at needing the rear subframe mounts to get frabricated and the mini tubs to get finished. So for now im looking at options for steering, still undecided between the rack and pinion style or to go with something like a Lee box set up. Not sure how many follow this but looking for some insight as to which route would be better, budget for that is around 2k total (want a new column too) and will be going with an LS1 engine.

[TOlsenAK]

Just purchased the 6.0L engine =) hopefully will get some work in on it between semesters, 2 more classes to go for my degree!

[TOlsenAK]

Block has been at the machine shop now a month.... finally bored 65 over and rods and pistons on order. Pretty annoyed with the machine shop, is having a block for 1 month a bit ridiculous?

[lobudget]

Very nice project, I'm enjoying watching your progress.

[ryeguy2006a]

I wouldn't say that a month is too bad honestly. I've heard where people have had to wait 3-4 months. But that really is up to the shop in setting expectations.

I'm curious what work they did to get you to the .065 overbore? From what I've read on the internet (has to be true right?) that it's safe for n/a but with boost that the cylinder walls can be compromised because they may be too thin for boost. 4.065 definitely opens you up to a lot of LS3 aftermarket parts, or nice used takeout parts. I'm curious to see how your motor build goes. Body work looks great too!

[TOlsenAK]

Thanks! Just got the block back yesterday! I don't really have any huge plans for power, more wanting a torque build, but yes, staying NA, I may later down the line build a block set up for forced induction (probably a turbo charger). The goal for the first motor build (as i've never done this before) was to build a block that wasn't anything too crazy power wise. From having a 403whp/379wtq Subaru, I didn't feel the need for much crazier power than the mid 400s to start with.


Basically due to some rust spots in the cylinders, they first honed the block, then did multiple bore passes to clean up the walls, then if im not mistaken, he honed it again before doing the final bore after he got the pistons in, I know he went 40 over to get the walls cleaned up then had to bore it again. Total cost for labor was $400 for the bore, $1400 for the rebuild parts (LS3 rods and pistons, all the gaskets, ect.) and another $600 for assembly and balance. I'd say not bad considering I spent 800 on the Gen 3 LQ4 block.

Here is what they started with:



I will say for the price, I am extremely happy with the attention Rob at Port and Sons in Fairbanks, AK gave my block, despite it being a pain in the ass, would highly recommend them.



Here is the finished result, I still need to get the rear main cover and seal on and valves installed, but im holding off for now until I decide what Heads to run. I want a torque build, not too concerned with horsepower as I'm sure I'll get 400+ easy and who really uses all of that. I'm more wanting a car that gets up and goes and corners well.

Total cost so far on the block: $3,100 (assembled short block, wiring harness, and ECU from the LQ4 donor)

[TOlsenAK]

Ordered my cam (sloppy mechanics stage 2 setup) and the holley 302-3 oil pan today, since its starting to get warmer out now and with the lift getting installed at my buddies shop, the rear end fabrication can start and then we can finish the mini tub install.

[Sbeck09]

Slick build you have going. I've been singing the praises of the S550 IRS being so cheap, but offering tons of options. Never expected to see it under one of these cars since it's so wide. I was shocked at how expensive it was to replace all the bushings with solid parts too. FYI the diffs in these with 3.73 gears are from the PP1 (track pack) so they came from the factory with a Torsen T2 limited slip unit and bigger 13" rear rotors.

My engine got stuck at the builder for about 4 months thanks to a crank back order so stuff happens. As long as they communicate effectively I don't get upset.

[TOlsenAK]

Yea, I think I dropped about $500 on the rear subframe and diff bushing kit from Full Tilt Boogie, but seeing the difference was insane

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7NWX6rZzdg&t=29s

Here is a video of the stock vs. their bushings

[TOlsenAK]

Been at the fun part lately, as the wife basically gave me a 'blank check' to buy parts with to get it running before this coming fall. Trying to keep it under $10,000 total over the summer.

Right now im debating the following:

-Electric Power Steering vs Mechanical
-Electric Water Pump vs Mechanical
-Off the Shelf Trick Flow Heads vs Buying Bare 823 Heads and building them to learn
-AutoRad setup vs. Regular Radiator and Core Support


Major Hurtles ahead:
-Tunnel Clearance with the z32 Trans and 8.8 Ford Diff (its slightly offset center IIR, will have to make measurements)
-Rear Sub frame mount alignment (This is going to be a bitch to square up, im OCD)
-Finishing Mini-Tub Install
-Shortening the rear end wheelbase vs. crazy offset wheels (Stock is 60in, the 8.8 Ford IRS is 64.9)


Anyone know what a decent 18x12 wheel offset fit for the stock wheelbase of 60? Needing the numbers for making some calculations.

[TOlsenAK]

Hurtle Update

Had some free time at work today and did some quick math based off what a lot of people are running with stock axles and no mini-tubs.
I see a lot of 18x9.5 wheels with 5.5" backspacking and then a car with a 57" track width running 18x12s with 5.6" of backspacking. (my center point to WMS is going to be 3.95" wider on each end)
Based off my math if I wanted to run a similar outside distance with a 64.9" axle, I would need to get a 12in wheel at 9.38" backspacing to be the same fittiment. I do plan on rolling the rears to give more clearance. Based on the pictures I've seen though I may be able to knock 1" off the backspacing and have them poke out a bit more without issue.

Any thoughts on how badly I will be abusing my rear wheel bearings with 315/40/18 rear wheels at an 8.38" backspace?

[TOlsenAK]

Got my camshaft in, the holley 302-3 oil pan, and my high volume oil pump, should have the block done up to the heads by the end of the week

Truck oil pan vs the new holley pan. Forgive the rotated photo, seems to happen with phone uploads

[ryeguy2006a]

May want to think twice about the high volume pump. I've heard where a lot of people have aeration issues and possible oil starvation issues at higher rpms.

[TOlsenAK]

I do remember reading a bit on how the wet sump systems didn't last long on the track without upgrades, which I have planned for later on in the build, im basically warming up to building a track ready engine/turbo combo later on, but for the first few years of the life of the car its going to be a performance street driven car only really so it will be only every so often I get into higher RPMs and only on occasion. I more was thinking in line of the valvetrain chatter for cold starts, as I am in Alaska so even in the spring and fall It'll be chillier than most places. It's the 10% increase volume over stock, but I can see people having more issues running the higher end version thats around a 33% increase over the stock pump.

I will say im still learning a lot of this, as this is my first engine build and the bits I have found and read said the Melling M296 pump would be pretty good for what im going for right now. Would love to read up on the aeration issues if you have any links to resources on it.

[TOlsenAK]

More Progress on getting the rear subframe mocked up before the final installation, lots of adjustments and measurements taken.

[TOlsenAK]

Been super busy lately with college and wrapping up the semester with a capstone class, but graduation is in sight!

Basically I've just spent too much money in a short period of time, but have had almost no time to work on the car, so I've just gotten to pick away at the engine build:

Engine is mostly assembled now with what I have so far:

Block and Rotating Assembly:
-LQ4 Block Bored .065 over to a 4.065
-Stock LS3 Rods and Pistons
-LS7 Lifters
-Elgin Hydraulic Roller Camshaft .585/.585
-Holley 302-3 Oil Pan
-Melling M296 Oil Pump
-Trick Flow Timing Chain Damper Adapter Bracket
-LS Billet Aluminum Oil Diverter Barbell
-2009 Chevy Corvette Water Pump


Cylinder Heads
-823 Head casings
-PAC-1218 Springs,
-LS3 Rocker Arms and Stands - With Roller Trunion Kit Installed
-ARP Head bolt kit

fuel delivery:
-Stock LS7 Injectors



These are just loosely installed so I can keep track of everything, I still have springs to change out.



Still much to be done, like mount the heads, change out the springs, get my pushrod length measurements and the right size ordered, and then tighten everything down as required.

It's been a learning experience for sure as this is my first time doing any of this other than the two times I adjusted valves on my 2001 subaru, so big jump in what I'm dealing with.

[TOlsenAK]

Not a final weld in job, but what a great feeling though to have it be able to roll around on its own again after it being on stands most of the winter.


Full Extension of the rear suspension travel:



Nevermind the body work that still needs to be done on the doors.... (its on my giant list of things to do!)

Next up will be to take a ton more measurements for selecting and mounting the rear coil overs, clamping in the tubs (for clearance measurements), checking for the angles/mounting for the rear diff and transmission, and probably a lot more.

Also have to build the mounts for the front end rack and pinion setup, since I don't feel like paying $1800 for the mount and rack setup when i can build my own and spend $500 on a decent rack and pinion that will work and give me easier replacement options down the road (I'll be able to just go to a NAPA or something and get one if I need it in a hurry vs. waiting for one to ship to me).

- - - Updated - - -

Here is how it sits with the suspension bottomed out all the way (no strut/spring setup installed).





Still doesn't actually touch anything in the wheel wells.

Excited to get this thing all dialed in and finished with full welds and not just spot welds as we make adjustments.

[Sbeck09]

Well it goes lower than I thought it would when I first saw your final mounting height, but I will caution you to think about how much bump travel you are leaving the shocks when it sits at right height. I love how it looks, but just an area I've seen a ton of people not think about in the past. I take it you don't plan to have it quite as low as some of the other cars on here?

[ryeguy2006a]

Very interested to see what you came up with for a R&P steering setup.