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  1. #1
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    Jul 2012
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    Default Hydroboost/power steering system bleeding

    I've done the turn the wheel from side to side about a million times. I kept fluid levels up. I can't seem to keep time ps pump from whining though. It's a brand new pump but I'm not ruling it out being bad.

    When installing the booster, I had to completely take it apart to reinstall the push rod into the booster body. When the rod piston came out, a ton of power steering fluid came out with it. I didn't refill it, should I have? I assumed it was self bleeding.

    Notes: I let the car sit over night and when I first started it, no noise. I shut it off, did some tuning, started it back up and immediate whine again. The whine goes away after about 30 seconds of running but comes back if throttle the pedal a little bit.



    Got any pointers?

    Please, call me Bart


  2. #2
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    Default

    Not sure this is it, but I see this a lot in Hydro systems. There are two low pressure return lines. One from the Steering (box or rack) and one from the hydro bypass. On 'Most' installs, these two lines are joined with a "T" fitting, and the one line goes into the tank. This will cause a stutter in the fluid that will cause cavitation. The correct way is to have both return lines go into the tank. This may require some fab work, but in the long run, well worth it. Also, I always install a cooler in the return line from the steering to the tank. (main return).

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Default

    Also consider if you have a remote tank it needs a filter inside the tank to reduce the micro bubbles.

  4. #4
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    Yeah sorry. I left some info out here. The pump and reservoir are a unit for an ls truck with hydroboost so it has dual returns.

    The same thing happened again. Car sat for 24 hours, started it up and no whine. Drove the car around the block, shut it off, did some quick tuning, started it back up and its noisy as hell again.

    Please, call me Bart

  5. #5
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    Mar 2014
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    We fought this issue with our Chevelle for a while. Same setup, hydroboost with stock box re-geared, had a cooler and a remote reservoir.

    What it turned out being was the flow valve in the pump. There is a "High" and "Low" flow version of the Type II pumps, and the high flow version pumps too much fluid in the system which aerates the oil and causes the noise. Eventually it will kill the pump, we put 4 pumps on ours before we found the issue.

    The cheap fix is to get on Summit or another site and get a "low" flow pump fitting or entire pump. Since you said your pump is for a truck it probably had the high flow valve in it, but I can't say for sure.

    We opted to call these guys: http://www.jonesracingproducts.com/ps.html#psal

    We talked to them and explained our problem and they told us two things. First was about the different flow valves that I explained above. The second was about "New" pumps. They told us that a lot of the "new" pumps on the market are actually rebuilt units. Jones gets fresh case castings and builds pumps with all new components. We told them the specs of our steering system, and the built us a pump to match our car.

    We also opted to install their fluid reservoir that was much bigger and had a separate return for the hydroboost bypass. Before installing that our car would drag the rear brakes slightly when the fluid was cold, after the new parts it was gone. The new pump is dead silent and the car drives great again.

    Hope this helps! PM me if you have any more questions.
    Nelson
    1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

    1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

  6. #6
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    Holy ****. This is exactly the information I was looking for. I truly appreciate your response (and Ive been following Cone Smasher for a couple of years. In fact, the car pops into my mind every time I see orange cones).

    Im going to give Jones a call and get the scoop and throw more money at my car as I weep.

    The PS pump was so loud I actually thought it was the torque converter (having a discussion on LS1 tech about torque converters now. Seem the TCI one I have isnt very popular :( )

    Please, call me Bart

  7. #7
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    Mar 2014
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    No problem, glad I can help!
    Nelson
    1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

    1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

  8. #8
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    Well, Jones says I cant use a Saginaw Type 2 pump with my bracket set up. So I'll need to figure out how to mod my bracket or get a whole new bracket set up and frankly, I dont want to spend any more money on this project until like next year. So I tried the flow control fitting, still whining. I guess I'll just deal with it for now.

    Please, call me Bart

  9. #9
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    There are different flow control valves for the Saginaw pumps as well, so you should be able to find a lower flow one to see if it helps.
    2018 Cruze LT Hatchback
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  10. #10
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    I tried the detroit speed fitting that's supposed to bring it down to 2gpm. It's there an even smaller one?

    Please, call me Bart

  11. #11
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    Not sure on a smaller one. I wonder if this adjustable one would work, ideal is great, just says it fits all GM pumps, no reference to type 1 or 2 :https://pitstopusa.com/i-23930710-tu...-gm-pumps.html

    Here is a site where someone modifies the valve, info may be helpful: http://jeffd.50megs.com/Pump_valve_mod_page.htm
    2018 Cruze LT Hatchback
    2003 Suburban 2500 8.1L
    1975 MGB Roadster
    2003 GSX750F Katana

  12. #12
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    Silly question but does it matter which return line goes where on the PS Reservoir?

    Please, call me Bart

  13. #13
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    Default

    It should not matter.

    Todd Z.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by toddz69 View Post
    It should not matter.

    Todd Z.
    I didnt think so but I wondered on cavitation.

    Would going from AN6 to AN8 alleviate any flow/cavitation issues? I tend to think not since I cant change any of the orifice sized.

    Please, call me Bart

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrrf View Post
    I didnt think so but I wondered on cavitation.

    Would going from AN6 to AN8 alleviate any flow/cavitation issues? I tend to think not since I cant change any of the orifice sized.
    We have a AN-10 for the pump inlet from the reservoir. You want that as big as you can get since gravity is the only thing feeding the pump from the reservoir. We have -6 for all the other lines.
    Nelson
    1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

    1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)



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