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    1. #21
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      I bought an 89 LX 5.0 new back in 89...lol

      Good times.



      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking good so far! I'm thinking after all the suspension work is done on my car I'm going to covert to electric fans as well. I've never had any issues getting hot, but I won't say no to freeing up some power.
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Mar 2018
      Location
      la mesa, CA
      Posts
      237
      I dig how you blacked out everything. gives me some ideas for Project Bike Truck.
      Follow my Instagram
      And my build on here
      check out Opentracker Racing Products

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Chino Valley, AZ
      Posts
      134
      Country Flag: United States
      Swapped my Moroso CAI for a factory airbox that has been insulated (from EscortSportage), and a fresh K&N filter. Been doing some research and for the level of power my car is putting down being a mild H/C/I 302, the factory airbox is the best option. More and cleaner airflow to the MAF is a good thing.


      Then I drove it to the Late Model Restoration Cruise-In at the Texas Motorplex Dragway in Ennis this weekend. Just showed, it ain't a drag car or a dyno queen. There were probably 100 foxes, which was neat to see. Not too many unique combos. Probably a dozen turbo cars. Saw some clean pulley brackets that I really liked, but that was about it for inspiration. The Ghost was the only fox sitting on SVE wheels and seemingly the only car set up for corners. Tooting my own horn but makes me smile to have a unique car on a ubiquitous platform. Also met Farm Truck Racing TX and saw his badass Lightning, really cool truck!


      That road trip was about 100 miles round-trip in >90* heat, and the car ran great. It is noticeably smoother and happier with the factory airbox vs the moroso.

      I still have a slight miss above 3k. I checked the plugs, they were all clean and looked good. My theories then move to ignition or fuel. The car is on the factory ignition (I removed the MSD box due to similar issue a while back) but I still have an MSD coil which may not be happy with the factory ignition. There is a high-performance factory coil I will swap in soon that you can pick up cheap (like $15 cheap.. SMP part # FD478T). I also am wary of the classic fox issue, the TFS module, been considering putting a relocation harness to get the TFS out of the heat.

      The car also has a 190LPH BBK fuel pump that was installed in the year 2000 so its 18 years old... not sure the service history on those and replacements are relatively cheap... just have to drop the tank! Also I have not verified the date on the fuel filter, I think Cryptic Father swapped it when the car was stored at his house. So I'm looking at probably >3 years old so it should be replaced at the same time.

      Lots of paths, but all pretty cheap and easy. Only need the time!
      84 Ford LTD Wagon
      05 Ford Excursion
      Instagram

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      1,625
      Country Flag: United States
      I knew I should have gone but I had just gotten back from a week in Colorado and had a few things to catch up on. Car looks tits, we should hit up some autoX events soon.
      66 Mustang "Project: Ballin on a budget"
      89 Mustang "Box Wine"

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Mar 2018
      Location
      la mesa, CA
      Posts
      237
      Quote Originally Posted by Z06killinSBF View Post
      I knew I should have gone but I had just gotten back from a week in Colorado and had a few things to catch up on. Car looks tits, we should hit up some autoX events soon.
      I support this message!
      Follow my Instagram
      And my build on here
      check out Opentracker Racing Products

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Chino Valley, AZ
      Posts
      134
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Z06killinSBF View Post
      I knew I should have gone but I had just gotten back from a week in Colorado and had a few things to catch up on. Car looks tits, we should hit up some autoX events soon.
      I'm willing to murder cones!
      84 Ford LTD Wagon
      05 Ford Excursion
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    8. #28
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Chino Valley, AZ
      Posts
      134
      Country Flag: United States
      I've been concerned about the control arm angles for a bit, after learning about the magic of it back when I had an S197 mustang:


      The optimum angles for a MacPherson strut front end are as follows:


      And the rear lower controls arms for a live axle are as follows:


      The Ghost was sitting at "bad" for both front and rear. I couldn't get a solid picture of the rear control arms.


      Its on Maximum Motorsport coilovers so I am able to adjust ride height at will. Used an angle finder on my phone as well as a measuring stick to measure from known reference points (k-member, chassis, spindle, and axle bolts) to figure out where it should be. Long story short the car needed to go up about an inch all around. The rear coilovers ended up being the limiting factor, i was able to gain 11/16" on the perch before the adjuster had fully seated the spring at droop. Anything further would mean preloading the springs which is bad. So I may have to bring the front end down a bit just to get the car level. I don't really want to chase different spring lengths at this point.

      Also picked up a set of stock water pump and crank pulleys that should help keep the volts closer to 13 at idle. Right now it sits at maaaaybe 12.... not good for EFI! I also figured out why the factory airbox didn't sit right. I had used the bolts from the Moroso intake, while the stock bolts have a rubber isolater. Ordered new ones from LMR. Once that is mounted properly, it looks like I can open up the factory hole in the fender for even more airflow.
      84 Ford LTD Wagon
      05 Ford Excursion
      Instagram

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      1,625
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks like you have a 3G alt, what charge cable do you have coming off of it? How are the engine grounds? I put a 6g on mine and a 2ga cable to the relay on the fender.
      66 Mustang "Project: Ballin on a budget"
      89 Mustang "Box Wine"

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Chino Valley, AZ
      Posts
      134
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Z06killinSBF View Post
      Looks like you have a 3G alt, what charge cable do you have coming off of it? How are the engine grounds? I put a 6g on mine and a 2ga cable to the relay on the fender.
      I've got the PA Performance 4 gauge power wire on the 3g. I haven't checked the engine grounds for a while but they are on the list to replace/update, as my research has shown overkill for grounds works.
      84 Ford LTD Wagon
      05 Ford Excursion
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    11. #31
      Join Date
      Mar 2018
      Location
      la mesa, CA
      Posts
      237
      I vote this suspension issue gets bumped to the top of the list!
      Follow my Instagram
      And my build on here
      check out Opentracker Racing Products

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Chino Valley, AZ
      Posts
      134
      Country Flag: United States
      I got some time after dinner a few days ago to get some work in on the Ghost. I picked up a set of stock water pump and crank pulleys from a guy on the North Texas Foxbody Club.

      The background on this is trying to get the car to run cool and reliable. I basically solved that with the new aluminum 3-core radiator, revised fan shroud, and Stewart Components high-flow 180* thermostat. But, being in Texas, I want cooling overkill. Stewart has some excellent tech articles. One article mentioned water pump speed in relation to crank as well as calculations into actual power gain/loss. I watched an episode of MTOD’s Engine Masters where they proved that heat is much more critical for power generation than parasitic drag. Anyways, long story short, minimum speed for a street-driven car is matching the water pump to crank, up to about 25% over.

      For those playing along at home, the stock crank pulley has a diameter of approximately 5 11/16”, underdrive was 4 ¼”. The water pump is 4 ½” stock, 5 ¼” underdrive. Doing the math on the underdrives showed the water pump at 80% crank, while the stock pulleys run it at 126% crank. Close enough. As an added bonus, the existing belt I had for the underdrive pulleys fit with the stock pulleys, though it is at the upper limit of its travel on the tensioner.

      As an ancillary detail, I have been noticing the voltage dip after running the car for a while at idle, so in theory going back to a larger crank pulley without changing the alternator pulley will increase idle charge rate as well. I tried checking the voltage after starting it up, but it was at a steady 14.5v with both pulleys. It only seems to dip after a while of driving. Maybe it is grounds or something else. The charge cable and regulator are both new and oversize, so I don’t think they are culprits. More troubleshooting (aka driving the car!) as time permits.
      84 Ford LTD Wagon
      05 Ford Excursion
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    13. #33
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      1,625
      Country Flag: United States
      I have some spare random pulleys youre welcome to try out
      66 Mustang "Project: Ballin on a budget"
      89 Mustang "Box Wine"

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Chino Valley, AZ
      Posts
      134
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Z06killinSBF View Post
      I have some spare random pulleys youre welcome to try out
      Thanks man, I'll keep that in mind. In theory, the stock pulleys should have it solved. I have a feeling the pulley on my 3G is a little big but i dont have anything else to compare it to. I need to finalize the alignment then get on some test drives.
      84 Ford LTD Wagon
      05 Ford Excursion
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    15. #35
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Sulphur, La
      Posts
      598
      IIRC the 93 cobra had a different water pump pulley to spin the pump faster.

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Chino Valley, AZ
      Posts
      134
      Country Flag: United States
      When I installed the factory airbox a few posts back, I re-used the upper bolts from the Moroso CAI. The fit was very strange with a gap between the air box mounting flange and the inner fender. While at the LMR Cruise-In, I managed to find a couple of foxes with stock airboxes (everyone drinks the CAI kool aid) and noted that their air boxes mounted with rubber-isolated bolts. So I ordered the air box hardware kit from LMR.



      After installing the lower air box with the new hardware, I noticed that the inner fender hole was smaller than the air box hole, and that the air box did not mount flush with the inner fender. I marked the inner fender and used a Dremel to match the fender to the airbox. The metal here is dual-layer so it took a bit of time and materials. I also used some window sealing foam to make a new gasket to seal the air box to the inner fender.



      While I had the Dremel out, I also smoothed the inside of the airbox lid, as the transition to the MAF piping had sharp angles and molding flash. Smooth is fast, as Cryptic Father always says.




      Next steps. I want to blackout the heat shield material, as the shiny stuff just doesn’t jive with my aesthetic. Also, if you pay attention to the pictures above, you can see the tire through the inner fender opening. I’ve been debating installing a shield to keep the intake a bit cleaner. I haven’t done much real-world testing so I’m not sure if its even necessary, but this may be a “better safe than sorry” thing. I've come up with the following mockup but time will tell if I implement.

      84 Ford LTD Wagon
      05 Ford Excursion
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    17. #37
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      1,625
      Country Flag: United States
      Instead of a shield, how about a duct?
      Or put the inner wheel shield back in
      66 Mustang "Project: Ballin on a budget"
      89 Mustang "Box Wine"

    18. #38
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Sulphur, La
      Posts
      598
      Or put the factory air silencer on it

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Sep 2011
      Location
      Southern Ontario
      Posts
      640
      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by frink84 View Post
      I've been concerned about the control arm angles for a bit, after learning about the magic of it back when I had an S197 mustang:


      The optimum angles for a MacPherson strut front end are as follows:


      And the rear lower controls arms for a live axle are as follows:


      The Ghost was sitting at "bad" for both front and rear. I couldn't get a solid picture of the rear control arms.


      Its on Maximum Motorsport coilovers so I am able to adjust ride height at will. Used an angle finder on my phone as well as a measuring stick to measure from known reference points (k-member, chassis, spindle, and axle bolts) to figure out where it should be. Long story short the car needed to go up about an inch all around. The rear coilovers ended up being the limiting factor, i was able to gain 11/16" on the perch before the adjuster had fully seated the spring at droop. Anything further would mean preloading the springs which is bad. So I may have to bring the front end down a bit just to get the car level. I don't really want to chase different spring lengths at this point.

      Also picked up a set of stock water pump and crank pulleys that should help keep the volts closer to 13 at idle. Right now it sits at maaaaybe 12.... not good for EFI! I also figured out why the factory airbox didn't sit right. I had used the bolts from the Moroso intake, while the stock bolts have a rubber isolater. Ordered new ones from LMR. Once that is mounted properly, it looks like I can open up the factory hole in the fender for even more airflow.
      So you don’t have any preload in your rear springs?

    20. #40
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Chino Valley, AZ
      Posts
      134
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Z06killinSBF View Post
      Instead of a shield, how about a duct?
      Or put the inner wheel shield back in
      inner shields rub on the tires as it is. i'm not sure what i would duct it to, as there isnt a good duct spot on the front of the car

      Quote Originally Posted by CSG View Post
      Or put the factory air silencer on it
      air silencer destorys the airflow advantage of the stock air box

      Quote Originally Posted by Peter Mc Mahon View Post
      So you don’t have any preload in your rear springs?
      basically none. should it?


      side note, i was out at my parent's place this past weekend and finally got to review the parts haul. there were some unexpected items included: brake duct backing plates that fit the cobra front brakes on the car so i might figure out some brake ducting up front. new mm/ford clutch cable, adjuster, and quadrant. might swap with my adjustable clutch cable and quad/adjuster to get everything into its best geometry. also rear slotted brake rotors and pads for sn95 cobra which could move up my rear brake redo now that a good portion of the hardware is present (and i hate the tiny rear disc brakes on the car now)
      84 Ford LTD Wagon
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