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    Results 41 to 60 of 108
    1. #41
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States

      Front End Together

      Got some time this weekend to work on the car and made good progress.

      I was able to get the leaking fitting replaced on the steering rack, put a new teflon washer and o-ring on it. Haven't run the car again, but I hope it's fixed.

      Otherwise I got the rest of the front end put together.
      The wheel hubs were torqued down with new nuts and dust covers installed.
      Rotors got cleaned up and the caliper brackets were installed.
      It took me a bit to get the calipers installed, they were apart when I got them so I hadn't seen how they were supposed to go together. Once google schooled me on how to install, the calipers went on and I got the new brake lines hooked up.
      Stab bar went in with new end links.

      Here's how it looks!

      20180929_104218 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

      20180929_104223 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      I put the front wheels on a lowered the car down to get a look at how it sits. I'm pleased to say the least.

      20180929_111446 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

      20180929_111513 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      It sits right about where it did with the cut stock springs. I'll give them some time to settle, and if I'm not happy with them after that I'll cut them a bit. Probably less than 1/2 of a coil if any.

      I also started working on rolling the fender lips. I got the left rear fender mostly done, just needs some finishing work.

      Otherwise, I need to get the rear brackets painted and I can get the rear brakes together. I still need to make the new brake line for the axle to get the SN95 flex line to work. Should not be a big job, just need to get it done.

      I also got the prop valve installed, only took about 5 minutes. Probably the easiest part of the whole swap.

      Going on vacation for about a week, but will be able to make good progress when I return! We're about to get hit with the remnants of Hurricane Rosa, and once that is passed the days of 100*+ high temps are over for the year. It's actually 76* and raining right now, beautiful outside!
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    2. #42
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      1,625
      Country Flag: United States
      Coming along nicely, can you post the PN for that steering coupler? I am wanting to replace the rag joint on my 89.
      66 Mustang "Project: Ballin on a budget"
      89 Mustang "Box Wine"

    3. #43
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Z06killinSBF View Post
      Coming along nicely, can you post the PN for that steering coupler? I am wanting to replace the rag joint on my 89.
      Thanks!

      It's a Borgeson 015564. 3/4" smooth on one side, 3/4" Mustang V on the other side.
      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-015564

      Keep in mind this is for an SN95 rack swap, it will not fit a Fox rack. You'll need one of these if you keep the Fox rack:

      Borgeson 013449. 3/4" Smooth, 3/4" -36 spline.
      https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-013449


      I cut off the old rag joint adapter without shortening the shaft first, but it was too long and cause interference with the joint. So I chopped about 3/8" off and it was perfect. Might want to double check that if you have a different K member though.

      Speaking of upgrades, do you have any info on the 6G alt swap? I can't seem to find much. Considering mine has a 1G alt, I could use the upgrade.
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    4. #44
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      1,625
      Country Flag: United States
      I got the 6g for my car second hand new, but I just bought a harness for it and followed a write up on Corral or somewhere. Basically one of the factory connectors gets tucked back, the other gets spliced into the 6G and then a large power cable run to the starter relay. Super easy

      Edit: I think I used this

      https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...talled.761643/
      66 Mustang "Project: Ballin on a budget"
      89 Mustang "Box Wine"

    5. #45
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Z06killinSBF View Post
      I got the 6g for my car second hand new, but I just bought a harness for it and followed a write up on Corral or somewhere. Basically one of the factory connectors gets tucked back, the other gets spliced into the 6G and then a large power cable run to the starter relay. Super easy

      Edit: I think I used this

      https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...talled.761643/
      Thanks for the info. Long story short, I'm looking into building/having built billet accessory brackets, and the more info I can give them about different options will help them make good parts. Most likely they will design for the 3G alt since it is the most common upgrade, but then the 6G will clear no issue.
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    6. #46
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States
      Made some more progress the past few days.

      After a couple hours of drilling, swearing, and hitting I got the 93 Cobra brake booster installed. It was definitely a tight fit like many forums claimed it would be. But, it's in and that's all that matters. Ready to get an MC and get the lines finished up.

      20181016_203509 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      I also decided it would be easier to work on the rear of the car if the diff was out of my way, so out it came again. I needed the room to get the new rear brake line made and installed.

      20181016_203520 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      I got the old axle bushings pressed out, they weren't in very good shape. However, when I tried to install the new ones I couldn't get the ball joint press into a spot to push them in all the way. So I ordered a Maximum Motorsport install tool, it should be delivered today. I'll get those pushed in, then I can work on the brake line.

      20181016_203529 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      The rear caliper brackets from North Racecars were bare metal, so they got a coat of paint. I've become a big fan of the VHT Chassis & Rollbar Epoxy paint. It always comes out with a nice finish, and seems to be durable. The rear brake lines need to be cleaned up, then they are ready to go on the diff when the bushings are in.

      20181016_203537 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      That's all for now, planning to spend some time tonight in the garage to get more stuff done. I'm getting excited to drive it again!
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    7. #47
      Join Date
      Feb 2013
      Posts
      1,414
      Country Flag: United States
      Haha, I remember cussing a little bit when I was putting the Cobra booster in my car. They're definitely tight in there... but it's worth it!


      Ridetech Suspsension
      Tech Specialist
      Phone: 812.481.4734

      Project Fox
      1979 Trans Am

    8. #48
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Josh@ridetech View Post
      Haha, I remember cussing a little bit when I was putting the Cobra booster in my car. They're definitely tight in there... but it's worth it!
      Tight was an understatement for this car haha. Apparently the shock towers are different between the 4 eye and aero cars making the fit harder for the 4 eyes. I had to hammer the shock tower, cut the studs shorter, and drill the holes in the firewall bigger to get it in.


      I was able to get the rear brake line made up last night. Nothing too hard, just needed to convert from the old single exhaust line to the new line for the cobra brakes. Not the prettiest line there has ever been, don't flame me too hard lol.

      20181017_201850 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      Since my car did not have dual exhaust as an option, there were no holes for the bracket to bolt in. I put the axle back in the car with the brake line so I could see where it needed to sit, then marked and drilled. I opted to tap the holes rather than rivet since I don't have a rivet gun handy.

      20181017_201855 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      I used the old fitting I took out when the prop valve went in to connect the lines. That was a nice time saver, it was the same size as the old rear brake outlet and the new line.

      20181017_201858 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      I need to clean up the rear brake lines better, they still look pretty dirty. Might just paint them and be done.

      20181017_201905 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      The diff is back under the car at this time. I need to finish a few things, but I think the springs are ready to go in and get the axles back in. Might be sitting on all four wheels next week!
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    9. #49
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Chino Valley, AZ
      Posts
      134
      Country Flag: United States
      it looks like you still have the factory "dogbone" on the front of the diff. you can unbolt it as its a factory NVH piece that doesn't do much on a modified car.
      84 Ford LTD Wagon
      05 Ford Excursion
      Instagram

    10. #50
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by frink84 View Post
      it looks like you still have the factory "dogbone" on the front of the diff. you can unbolt it as its a factory NVH piece that doesn't do much on a modified car.
      Yes, it is still on there. I've seen that many people take it off, but I had never researched it's purpose to see what removal would do. I'll probably take it off now, save some weight. Thanks for the tip!

      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)


    11. #51
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States

      Rear End Progress

      Made some progress lately, but nothing major. I got the rear end back into the car and I got the new lowering springs into the car. They went in without any issues, although I had to use some of the old spring isolators like I did on the front. The poly ones that came with the springs are simply too thick to get in without a spring compressor or cutting the springs. So I compromised and put the new one on the bottom and old on the top.

      20181023_205021 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      The rear brake lines are fully installed now. I had to drill the axle for the mounting bolts, but luckily I have the SN95 axle sitting in the garage I can measure from. Measure twice, drill once, and they come out where they should lol. The rear shocks are in really bad shape and need replaced, I just haven't gotten them yet. My wedding is coming up in a couple weeks, so money and time are a little scarce at the moment haha.

      20181023_205027 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      More of the same on this side. Once the springs were in, I got the caliper mounting brackets installed and put on the rear dust shields. Hopefully the axles will go in tonight and I can get the rear end buttoned up.

      20181023_205043 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      I'm really looking forwards to driving it again. Just need some rear brake pads and a MC plus a weekend of work and it could be driving again! Oh and I guess I should probably get an alignment done, that's kinda important.
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    12. #52
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Chino Valley, AZ
      Posts
      134
      Country Flag: United States
      FYI if your rear ride height isn't even once you get it on the floor, ensure the pigtails on the springs are pointing the same direction. one of the downsides of conventional rear springs in foxes.
      84 Ford LTD Wagon
      05 Ford Excursion
      Instagram

    13. #53
      Join Date
      Oct 2018
      Location
      Phoenix, AZ
      Posts
      584
      Country Flag: United States
      Since you're "local" (I am in north Phoenix) I had to stop and say this is pretty cool. Great looking progress without throwing the checkbook at it.

      Planning to do any driving events with it next year? I'm hoping to be doing shakedown runs by late spring with my project.
      '95 F-150 track ready street beast
      Want more projects/photos? Check my Instagram

    14. #54
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by frink84 View Post
      FYI if your rear ride height isn't even once you get it on the floor, ensure the pigtails on the springs are pointing the same direction. one of the downsides of conventional rear springs in foxes.
      Thanks for the heads up. I think they're aligned, I moved them after this picture was taken because one of the isolators was a little out of place. I'll check them and make adjustments if needed.

      I'll be curious to see how it sits, I never installed these springs during test fitting, just used the stock cut ones.
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    15. #55
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Sbeck09 View Post
      Since you're "local" (I am in north Phoenix) I had to stop and say this is pretty cool. Great looking progress without throwing the checkbook at it.

      Planning to do any driving events with it next year? I'm hoping to be doing shakedown runs by late spring with my project.

      Thanks! I was born and raised in Mesa, the relocation to Yuma was only about 2 years ago. That's been the goal of this project from day one was to keep it affordable for now. I've got big plans in the future (hint-Terminator swap), but it will be a while before I get there.

      I'm hoping to run some SCCA events soon. The tricky part will be where to run. Marana is a really good place, no issues there. Since Bondurant is in bankruptcy, nobody has any idea what will happen there and if we can keep using their pads to race. AMP is a good location, but the noise restriction is a problem, my car is way too loud. Even our Chevelle that has big mufflers on it failed and it took some work to get it to pass. I even thought of running Good Guys even though I don't like their courses, but my wedding is that weekend so no chance there haha.

      So long story short, I am definitely going to try to run some events. Just need to sort out the details. It would be nice if I could get an event setup in Yuma, wouldn't have to travel so far.
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    16. #56
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States

      Progress Continues

      Still making small progress. The goal last night was to get it ready to roll the other fender lip by the end of the night. for once, I made a goal haha.

      I got the axles installed and got the diff sealed back up. The brake rotors were cleaned up and put back on. They may need to be turned/replaced in the future, I'll see how they drive first. I also got the caliper brackets assembled with new pins and seals. Just need a set of brake pads and I can install the calipers. I'm going to have to wait on the E brake cables until a later date, but they won't stop the car from driving.

      20181025_210529 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

      20181025_210533 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

      20181025_210545 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      I'll see how things go this weekend if any progress can be made. If all else fails, I'll get stuff done next week.
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    17. #57
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States

      It's Together!

      Well, the Rustang is finally back in one piece again! I forgot to grab some pictures, but I got the rear calipers installed with new pads. I'll say one thing, those e brake lever springs are no joke. I about killed myself a few times trying to get those back on. I got all the brake lines sealed up and got the diff filled with fluid.

      I threw the wheels on and set it on the ground just to see how it looked.

      20181030_073000 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      It's sitting a little higher in the rear than it did with the cut springs. As I stated before, I'm going to drive the car before doing any adjustments. Excuse the messy garage, that it the next job after getting the car driving.

      20181030_073009 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

      20181030_073015 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      I got the new master cylinder installed. I used the one from a 94-95 Mustang Cobra since it is what the brakes came off of. My calculations show a pedal effort ratio of 15.29, which puts it right in the middle of the OEM window (13-17). I was able to reuse all the lines from the old M/C, I just had to cut off the ends and put new tube nuts on. Maximum Motorsport sells nice little adapter pieces that adapt from the bubble flare fittings on the M/C to standard inverted flare which I used.

      20181031_073214 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

      20181031_073219 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      Tonight I hopefully can wrap up the few loose ends and get a test drive! Need to get the Fiance to help bleed the brakes. I found the rear E brake cable guides are too long for Fox length axles, they need to be massaged to fit. And the front fenders need rolled still. I've got the alignment close enough to drive around the neighborhood and get to an alignment shop. Hopefully I survive the maiden voyage!
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    18. #58
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States

      It Drives!

      Well, the Rustang survived it's first trip around the neighborhood! It was definitely sketchy, and more work needs to be done, but I'm happy! The alignment is way off, I probably have almost 1/2" toe in, and no idea where the camber/caster are. I'm going to run the toe out before I try to test drive it again.

      20181101_175338 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      Currently, the ride height is not where I'd like it. The front fender lip is 25" from the ground, and the rear lip is 27". When I had the cut springs in the car, it sat at about 26" front & rear and looked great. You can see the difference in this picture.

      20181101_175350 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      The front definitely needs to come up, even with my fenders rolled the front tires are rubbing. I can gain a bit if I take the springs out and put the thicker isolators in the front, that might gain 1/2" or more. I'm hoping with some more camber the clearance will improve, but I'm going to have to do more work to the fender lip. I'm not ready to cut and put flares on the fenders, so I'll beat on the fender more and see if I can get it out of the way.

      The rear needs to come down, so trimming a bit off the springs looks to be in order. I'll focus on the front first then worry about the back.

      20181101_180613 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

      20181101_184833 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      Overall, happy it drives, now I can work on the details!
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    19. #59
      Join Date
      Mar 2014
      Location
      Yuma, AZ
      Posts
      635
      Country Flag: United States
      Well, some progress is better than none!

      Been really busy lately, I just got married on the 17th to my partner in crime, and I couldn't be happier! Obviously due to the wedding I've not worked on the Rustang for several weeks. But I finally got some time and was able to make some things happen in the garage.

      I ordered E Brake cables during the Black Friday sales, so those went in the car first. No fuss there aside from getting the cables into the calipers, a little tough.

      Up front I messed with the alignment, I ran the toe out so it looks normal and not majorly toed in. I also gave it a little more camber and caster, but without knowing where the car is at I didn't want to push it. Also, I pulled the front springs out to see what I could do to lift the front end up. I put in the thicker isolators that came with the lowering springs and added a piece of rubber to the bottom of the spring to make it a hair longer. After all was said and done, it lifted the front of the car about 5/8". Not quite as much as I wanted, but it is better than before. The fenders still need work to clear without hitting, I will pull them off the car to sort them out.

      I drove it around the neighborhood again and it was much more pleasant!

      20181204_173259 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

      20181204_173304 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

      20181204_173333 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


      So the next steps to come:
      1. Clearance front fenders
      2. Alignment
      3. Cut rear springs to drop rear end
      4. Adjust carb. Thing runs rich at idle (13:1), but majorly lean at WOT (16:1). I'm guessing bigger secondary jets will help the WOT AFR.
      5. Finish up interior repairs

      That's all I've got for now. Hoping to be driving the car again soon now that the weather is really nice!
      Nelson
      1969 Chevelle "Cone Smasher" Family Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...uot?highlight=

      1984 "Rustang" GT, 5.0, 5 Speed Project
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...T-(Slow-Build)

    20. #60
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Chino Valley, AZ
      Posts
      134
      Country Flag: United States
      one thing to pay attention to on the front fenders, i believe there is a screw right at the top of the fender holding the splash shield in. make sure you remove that screw before attempting to roll the fenders or anything else.

      is the rub on the fender lip itself? i would also check the spats on the bottom of the front part of the fender. those can be liberally trimmed without really affecting outer appearances, this piece here on your picture:
      Name:  trimfender.jpg
Views: 474
Size:  19.8 KB
      84 Ford LTD Wagon
      05 Ford Excursion
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