1984 "Rustang" GT (Slow Build)

[WallaceMFG]

MM clutch cable should be a worthwhile upgrade. I would pay special attention to how its run when you install it. MM's instructions are pretty detailed, but in general keeping it away from heat and tight turns is the name of the game.

As expected, Maximum Motorsport products always are better than whatever they replaced. I got the new cable in last night and it made a huge difference. The pedal actuation is much lighter and smoother than before. Only complaint I have is that the mounting bracket for the cable doesn't line up with the old one because of the difference in cable length. Not a major issue, I'll resolve it easily.

Haven't driven the car yet, it is still up in the air for an oil change. Hope to have it back on the road tonight for a test drive.

[WallaceMFG]

Not much to report lately. I've just been driving the car as the weather allows. So far everything seems to be ok with the engine, no weird noises and it's running the best it ever has. I'm really hoping the stuff I found in the filter was just left over from break in. I'll get some more miles on it, then drain the oil and see what it says.

I took advantage of LMRs 4th of July sale and got a few things like door rollers and a new turn signal switch. Provided the motor is ok, I'm going to work on doing a 3G alt upgrade and electric fans. I want to get the A/C working on the car, so the fans will be part of that.

Just need this humidity to go away so I can stand to be in the garage again lol.

[Sbeck09]

Amen to that! Monsoon season sucks because of the humidity. I've been struggling to get much done because I just get too hot. Glad to hear that everything is working well right now.

[frink84]

When you do the 3g upgrade, i would make sure you use a quality wiring kit with big wires. I used the LMR 4-gauge kit with great success. I would also recommend the contour dual fan setup of the lincoln setup. contour gives you so much more room to work with under the hood.

[WallaceMFG]

Amen to that! Monsoon season sucks because of the humidity. I've been struggling to get much done because I just get too hot. Glad to hear that everything is working well right now.

Definitely. I've got a swamp cooler that usually keeps the garage reasonable inside, but not right now lol. At least we have winter to look forwards to now!

When you do the 3g upgrade, i would make sure you use a quality wiring kit with big wires. I used the LMR 4-gauge kit with great success. I would also recommend the contour dual fan setup of the lincoln setup. contour gives you so much more room to work with under the hood.

For sure on the wiring. I look forwards to getting as much of the old wiring out of the car as I can. All the old charge wires are going away and replaced with at least 4 gauge, new grounds too. Unfortunately for me, all the kits LMR makes are for 86+ cars with the battery on the driver side, so I'll have to make my own cables.

I'll look into the contour fans, I had been planning to build my own shroud and controller, but that may be the more affordable path.

[WallaceMFG]

Been a while since I've posted an update. I was very busy with work this summer and did not pay much attention to the Rustang.

Now that the weather has improved, I spent a little time working on it just doing routine maintenance. I also went up to SEMA and had a good time as usual. Came back, and that's where things came to a halt again.

20191112_201631 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


Did an oil change on the car, and noticed sparkles in the oil again. Yanked the motor out and pulled the pan, found this:

20191103_175857 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


Those are from cylinders number 4 and 8. Obviously number 8 was not happy at all. So one thing lead to another, and here's how my garage looks now:

20191112_201639 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

20191118_181428 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

20191118_181432 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


The main bearings did not look too bad aside from number 5, and it was not very bad. All the rods looked ok except for number 8 and 5 showed a little wear as well. The crank has a groove in it on number 8 journal, looks good otherwise. So hopefully I can just have a little machine work done and be able to put it back together fairly quickly. I was mad at first, but then I realized I treat the car pretty harshly compared to my daily driver, and I got over it lol. Only thing I tell myself is it will be better when I'm done with it.

I've also guy my eye on a DOHC 4.6 Modular that I am hoping to grab and eventually swap into the car. For now the Coyotes are just too far out of my price range, and the 4.6 is an easy swap since so many parts interchange between Foxbodys and SN95s. So I would like to spend a year or two building the 4.6 into a Terminator clone and have some real power on my hands. Or i'll change my mind again and go for a nice NA DOHC build. So many options!

[Sbeck09]

That's a bummer about the engine, but it sounds like you've made your peace with it.

Don't forget that the coyote truck motors are nearly identical to the Mustang version for less. They just have slightly less compression and different intake cams. By the time you start modifying a 4.6 you might be surprised at the minimal difference in cost if there is any.

Either way I hope you get the car back in action soon.

[WallaceMFG]

Yeah, I got angry at first. Then realized I was being dumb and to not worry about it and I felt better haha.

I've been eyeing the Coyotes for a while, almost pulled the trigger a couple times. As you stated, the differences are minimal for the truck engines so I have not been picky about what they came from. My main problem has been that I don't have the funds ready to buy one immediately, so even when a good deal has popped up it goes away before I can get to it. Or as I've found out is more common, the junkyards will post a good price, but that is just for the longblock, no accessories, intake, computer, etc... Really annoying to find what looks like good deal only to find it is missing $2K plus in other parts I need for it to run. I've also never managed to find a u pull it lot of any kind with a Coyote in it, probably because they know what they are worth. This has made me realize how cheap LS swaps truly are, and I've almost opted for that route a couple times.

I've got a line on a 4.6 for $200 that has a Teksid block that is good for 1,200 hp. Just need a good rotating assembly, a head swap, boost, and I'll have a Terminator clone. Some other things that swing in favor of the 4.6 is the accessory drive. Coyotes never had a power steering pump from the factory, and conversion kits I've found go for upwards of $700. 4.6 accessories are plentiful and easy to get and go right in to a Fox. I'm still in the planning stages of all this. I may get part way in and find out the Coyote is the better deal and switch plans. But time will tell for now.

In the meantime, I've been hunting machine shops to get quotes to fix my current engine. Hope to have it back on the road in a couple months if all goes well.

[Sbeck09]

Sounds like you are definitely keeping all factors in mind. Another thing toward the truck coyote motors is that they do use hydraulic power steering so that might be the trick to solve that issue.



Worst case for the engine, you can always come up and use my builder. He really knows his stuff.

[chunger]

I've been eyeing the Coyotes for a while, almost pulled the trigger a couple times. As you stated, the differences are minimal for the truck engines so I have not been picky about what they came from. My main problem has been that I don't have the funds ready to buy one immediately, so even when a good deal has popped up it goes away before I can get to it. Or as I've found out is more common, the junkyards will post a good price, but that is just for the longblock, no accessories, intake, computer, etc... Really annoying to find what looks like good deal only to find it is missing $2K plus in other parts I need for it to run. I've also never managed to find a u pull it lot of any kind with a Coyote in it, probably because they know what they are worth. This has made me realize how cheap LS swaps truly are, and I've almost opted for that route a couple times.

THIS. EXACTLY.

For us Ford fans, this is exactly the spot we're in. Either keep playing with the pushrod Windsors, or go all in on a Coyote. There really isn't much in the middle. Thankfully, the Windsor stuff is pretty cheap (at least for now), but feels really old. Most of the mod motors aren't really worth looking into, or are just too expensive by the time you add heads and cams, headers, etc. Oh, and you'll need a computer / harness to run everything. It's a HUGE jump in price to get into the mod motors. Chevy got alot right with the LS's, and they are very plentiful.

[WallaceMFG]

Sounds like you are definitely keeping all factors in mind. Another thing toward the truck coyote motors is that they do use hydraulic power steering so that might be the trick to solve that issue.

Worst case for the engine, you can always come up and use my builder. He really knows his stuff.

I'm pretty sure even the F150 Coyotes don't use a power steering pump. As far as I am aware, they use an electric rack like GM does, but I could be wrong.

Who did you use for your engine? At a minimum I would like to call and talk to him about my parts and see what he thinks.

[WallaceMFG]

THIS. EXACTLY.

For us Ford fans, this is exactly the spot we're in. Either keep playing with the pushrod Windsors, or go all in on a Coyote. There really isn't much in the middle. Thankfully, the Windsor stuff is pretty cheap (at least for now), but feels really old. Most of the mod motors aren't really worth looking into, or are just too expensive by the time you add heads and cams, headers, etc. Oh, and you'll need a computer / harness to run everything. It's a HUGE jump in price to get into the mod motors. Chevy got alot right with the LS's, and they are very plentiful.

It is pretty interesting to see how much the mod motors have in common with the LS platform. Kinda makes sense since they were developed around the same time period.

And I agree, it is a big price gap to get into the Mod motors compared to the Windsors. But at times it is not worse than an LS in terms of needing a computer and wiring to run it. But things like cams being $1200 instead of $300 is a big difference. But, in my mind I appreciate the jump to newer technology that the Mod motors give, which is why I am looking to go that route. I think the 4.6 DOHC is a little under loved by enthusiast because of the part prices, but is plenty capable of making power when massaged on.

[Sbeck09]

I'm pretty sure even the F150 Coyotes don't use a power steering pump. As far as I am aware, they use an electric rack like GM does, but I could be wrong.

Who did you use for your engine? At a minimum I would like to call and talk to him about my parts and see what he thinks.

You're right about the F150s. I must have been looking at a 2010 when I saw the hydraulic hoses. I did see that a number of companies offer brackets to mount the S197 steering pump so that might make it easier/cheaper.

I used Duffee Motorsports (623-455-8188). Brian runs the place and his only other worker is Pat. You usually have to leave a message, but Brian has always called me back within a couple hours max. Not a super talkative guy, but he really knows his stuff.

[WallaceMFG]

Hey guys, I'm back! lol

Finally back to working on the Rustang. Got through the holidays and other family events without any progress worth showing, just some small stuff like removing the factory radio, which involved taking half the dash apart lol.

Got my engine hauled off to the machine shop to be looked over and figure out what went wrong, didn't have to wait long. I use B&B machine in Mesa, Billy that runs the place has been there forever and knows his stuff. He picked up by rods and without even measuring said they don't feel right. He measured them and found the big ends were severely out of round and tight at the parting line. His conclusion, the machine shop that installed the ARP rod bolts did not recondition the rods when they were done pressing them in. So my rod clearances were all over the place and that lead to the demise of the engine. I'll be going back to that shop to speak with them about this, I'm not happy with them.

B&B got the block cleaned up, crank replaced, cylinders honed, and rods reconditioned. I picked up my parts and set about building the engine.

20200417_105007 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


Craigslist cam back for round 2!
20200417_105013 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


I actually have micrometers to check the clearances this time, making me feel better that everything is ok. Main clearances all checked out and the crank went into it's home.
20200417_122115 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


At this point I got a little sidelined. The rod bearing clearances were on the tight side, tighter than I liked. One quick trip back to B&B and he honed the rods to loosen the clearance. Just got home with them last night, yet to measure but should be in the clear now.

More progress coming in the next few days, should have the car running again shortly!

[Josh@Ridetech]

Awesome to see it going back together!

[WallaceMFG]

Awesome to see it going back together!

Thanks!

I'm behind on updates, but not on progress. Much to the wife's dislike I worked for several days to get the car assembled lol. After my trip to Mesa for the rods to be honed the clearances were perfect so the bottom end went together.

20200422_161015 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


Timing set was cleaned, inspected, and installed. New roller lifters as well since the ones from before were old and I didn't trust them after metal passed through the engine.

20200423_105825 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


Timing cover, new harmonic balancer, & water pump went on. One piece oil pan gasket and my "new" oil pan. I took a spare stock pan I had laying around and modified it for more oil capacity. I put some small baffles in it as well. Not as good as an aftermarket version, but those were not in the budget right now for a reason I'll explain later.

20200423_130133 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


Heads got a mild home port job and went back on the engine.

20200423_162739 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


Intake was repainted and headers cleaned up and back on.

20200424_163640 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


Ready to drop in!

20200425_112256 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


The engine went back in with a bit of a fight due to my oil pan. When I had taken my measurements, I didn't account for the engine being offset to the passenger side. The engine dropped right in, but when I tried to tilt it back to put the trans in the pan hit the K member and stopped it. So I pulled the engine back out and massaged the pan and K member for clearance. Took a fair bit, but the pan cleared with the trans installed. Even if the motor moves around a bit it should not hit anywhere.

[WallaceMFG]

Aside from my oil pan issue, the engine went back into the car without any issues so I did not take any pictures. Replaced all the rubber lines, filters, and fluids. Got the x pipe hooked up for the first fire up and terrorized the neighbors.




It was too late that night to do anything more than a short run. The next day I got the timing set right and got it idling good. Checked everything else for leaks, none found. Rumbled it around the neighborhood open headers to assert my dominance to everyone lol. Then hooked up the mufflers and things were back to normal.




Other than that, I swapped my new hood onto the car. I've got a plan to make it rusty like the old one so it will match the car until I paint it someday haha.

20200330_152131 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

20200427_172929 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


Took it for a drive last night after it cooled off and put some fresh gas in it. It was nice to roll around with the tops out again! Now I just gotta be easy on it for a while to break in and then I can go back to fully enjoying it! Also need to get the A/C working so I can drive it in the heat! lol

[WallaceMFG]

You guys ever feel like your life is going in a big circle and you can't get anywhere? That's about how I'm feeling right now.

20201111_194253 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

20201113_192255 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


And the worst part is we have no idea what happened. Everything checked out perfect during assembly and break in. Changed the break in oil and all was clean. Then one day I started noticing the oil pressure was dropping at idle when hot. Called the machine shop and they suggested stepping up oil weight, and when I drained it this time it looked even worse than last time I had bearing failure. Yanked the engine out and found what you see above. The engine was checked over and aside from those bad bearings, everything is good with the engine. They are suspecting oil contamination, but are not sure where it would have come from.

So I was pretty mad at this point and made a decision. If you can't beat them, join them.

20201226_155723 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

20201220_140928 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

20201220_140938 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr


Those of you who have been on my threads know I'm a little old fashioned and think Fords should have Ford engines, GM have GM engines, etc... But I finally reached a point where I said I don't care anymore and need to do something different. The engine is an LS1 from a 2000 or 2001 Camaro, and trans is from a Viper. The engine had blown a head gasket and I got it for a steal. The trans had failed the input shaft bearing and it was missing. Since I needed to change that anyways for an LS, that was an easy sell.

The LS1 was complete from intake to oil pan, so I got some good parts I needed for the swap. I lucked out since it was a late Camaro engine, it had the LS6 intake on it. I also got a 4.8L parts engine from another friend with a bunch of parts and a good set of 799 heads for it. I tore down the LS1 and unfortunately it had some rust in some cylinders, so it is at the machine shop seeing if the block is salvageable. For once, I got to tear down an engine that the bottom end was perfect though lol.

20210102_170231 by Nelson Wallace, on Flickr

Hopefully the block will be good and I can get it cleaned up and ready for service again. I have lots of work to do as there is much more to change over this time (wiring, fuel system, exhaust, etc...). But I'm ready for some new challenges!

[Mikey97D]

I like keeping cars brands match motors too, but I get the LS conversions.
Bonus, that LS1 has similar weight to my Turbo Lima 2.3L at 450 lbs.

[frink84]

Wow, what an update! I'll be watching your swap with great interest. I'm the exact opposite of your beliefs, hot rodding is engine swaps! Good luck!