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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    DFW, Texas
    Country Flag: United States

    Weight Sensitive Sound Reduction

    I am curious to hear from those that may be in a similar boat.

    My car has the entire underside coated with lizard skin ceramic/thermal coating, the inside is coated with raptorliner bedliner. I have some dynamat squares in a few areas of the floors and doors to help calm the resonance in the panel. I am not interested in adding 150+lbs to the car with dynamat.

    I would like to hear if you have any other solutions you have found to help reduce the noise of a classic car without adding a ton of weight. Such as
    • Different door vapor barriers [foam?]
    • Wheel well/exterior sound absorption [high frequency tire noise]
    • More strategic dynamat placement
    • Fiberglass-like insulation
    • Tricks for finding hidden openings in the firewall, door seals, window seals, etc.
    1972 Plymouth 'Cuda - Not LS-swapped, 5.7L Hemi [MS3 Gold Box], T56 Magnum 6-speed - 'Cuda Build Page
    1976 Dodge D100 - Warlock
    2016 Subaru WRX - E30 Tune

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Mountain Springs, Texas
    Country Flag: United States
    1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
    1957 Buick Caballero - huge project
    1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
    1969 Mustang Sportsroof
    1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Quiet Ride Solutions. Nice stuff, no hassle installation.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Country Flag: United States
    You are wise not to cover every inch of your interior with dynamat. It amazes me how many high-end builders add 100+ lbs of this stuff as you mentioned; it's the wrong tool for the job. The purpose of dynamat, or similar, is to calm panel resonance, which only requires a small amount of material (<25% coverage) on large pieces of sheet metal (roof panels, trunk pans, etc).

    This website does a good job explaining how to replicate sound deadening packages like those you'd find in a modern car:

    My advice would be to pick a modern car that has NVH properties you like and copy whatever materials/placement that OEM used.

    Bear in mind that new cars have a number of carefully engineered "tricks" (double door seals, quiet steel, acoustically laminated glass, noise cancelling audio systems) that will be almost impossible to match in an old car.

    For doors, I like using this stuff:

    The guys on the Corvette forum love it too because it's light, cheap, self adhesive, but removable without leaving the nasty residue that dynamat leaves.

    For floors, I like to use the typical older car style "jute." It's light and effective.