My 1967 Firebird (Updates)

[Buryingthesun]

The sub/motor/rad support look awesome all together now and I fully support the 15" wheel/tire trans am look! If you are planning to drive this thing in anger, besides having adequate brake ducting, maybe look into getting wider rotors to help dissipate heat. The lower operating temperature will allow you to run a less aggressive pad for street driving.

Thanks! These are actually the same rotors used on the JL-8 code 4 piston Camaro’s they should provide the braking I need

- - - Updated - - -

Hi Joe,
Very nice !
I like where this is going. nice work
Gil

Hey Gil! Glad to see you’re still around

[vette427-sbc]

Thanks! These are actually the same rotors used on the JL-8 code 4 piston Camaro’s they should provide the braking I need

My point about the rotors was not their stopping capabilities on the track but more so if you plan on street driving the car... A pad that will withstand the heat generated by those rotors is not going to give you good street manors and a street pad might fade quicker than desirable on the track... A bigger (ie: wider) rotor will shed heat faster which could keep you from having to swap pads for track days/ street driving. The JL-8 brake package is very similar, if not the same as a C2/3 corvette... I ran brake ducts, and titanium pad backing plate shims with Hawk HPS street pads. I had BAD brake fade as an amateur driver on 300tw tires. Track pads helped but had a noticeable warm up time which wasnt favorable for chilly auto cross days. The wilwood calipers will help shed the heat, but it looks like youre building more than just a "canyon carver" street car.

Keep the updates coming

FWIW: If your Wilwood calipers are the C3 corvette piston sizes; a 5.4:1 pedal ratio, 1" master cylinder (manual brakes) and Hawk HP+ pads was a really good combination for a street-tire track day car.

[Buryingthesun]

My point about the rotors was not their stopping capabilities on the track but more so if you plan on street driving the car... A pad that will withstand the heat generated by those rotors is not going to give you good street manors and a street pad might fade quicker than desirable on the track... A bigger (ie: wider) rotor will shed heat faster which could keep you from having to swap pads for track days/ street driving. The JL-8 brake package is very similar, if not the same as a C2/3 corvette... I ran brake ducts, and titanium pad backing plate shims with Hawk HPS street pads. I had BAD brake fade as an amateur driver on 300tw tires. Track pads helped but had a noticeable warm up time which wasnt favorable for chilly auto cross days. The wilwood calipers will help shed the heat, but it looks like youre building more than just a "canyon carver" street car.

Keep the updates coming

FWIW: If your Wilwood calipers are the C3 corvette piston sizes; a 5.4:1 pedal ratio, 1" master cylinder (manual brakes) and Hawk HP+ pads was a really good combination for a street-tire track day car.

Thank you for your input! I do plan on running track only pads and street pads for each. That pads I’ll run on track like you said will be way too much for street driving. I will be building brake ducts directly to the back of the rotor and running inline fans for extra cooling

[vette427-sbc]

Thank you for your input! I do plan on running track only pads and street pads for each. That pads I’ll run on track like you said will be way too much for street driving. I will be building brake ducts directly to the back of the rotor and running inline fans for extra cooling

In that case, keep on keepin on

[Buryingthesun]

Been busy since the last time I’ve posted.

Built up a fuel feed, found a nice tool that makes 37° flares so I could adapt AN fittings to hardline. I got my full ignition system sorted out and fuel delivery. Unfortunately the headers I had will not clear my canton oil pan so I found a set of 2014 Camaro SS manifolds and restored them to original cast-iron finish.











- - - Updated - - -

My other project thats been eating up some time is my 1964 AMC Rambler Classic LSX/Gasser build

[vette427-sbc]

The hardlines came out very nice!
And please tell me youre putting a straight axle under the rambler? We did some work on this Bill Kraft Rambler Gasser replica... I really dig these cars so dont hesitate to post some pics of yours in here too!

[Buryingthesun]

The hardlines came out very nice!
And please tell me youre putting a straight axle under the rambler? We did some work on this Bill Kraft Rambler Gasser replica... I really dig these cars so dont hesitate to post some pics of yours in here too!

I will absolutely be putting a straight axle under the Rambler! It’s actually going to be a test bed for my 408 while I pain stakeingly rebuild my Firebird shell. I just wish I had more confidence in the body work end of it because it’s really taking a long time because I’m afraid I’ll do something wrong

[Buryingthesun]

Some more updates, I fitted the passenger rear quarter and rocker again. I also started doing new door skins. Again, I have no idea what im doing but im learning as I go so thats why this process is taking years to do!

[Buryingthesun]

I picked up a lightly used ford 9" with Mark Williams 40 spline axles yesterday complete with parking brake and rear disc's, It also came with leaf springs and Competition Engineering Slide-a-links

[Buryingthesun]

More updates, Decided to start cutting the rest of the metal off the body that I will be replacing. I need to ge a new chisel bit for my air hammer, drill out some spot welds and I should be good to start fitting the new roof skin. I wont be welding the roof in for a while yet, Id like to get the new floor installed and frame rails before I dot the roof skin so I can mock up the main hoop of the cage and get it fully welded in.

[Buryingthesun]

More work, It's looking like daily updates hahaha

I removed the drivers side quarter yesterday and the drivers side inner and outer wheel well. I still have some trimming to do then I cant start fit-up of both quarters/roof skin/rear valance. I am currently playing with the idea of just replacing the drip rails while im down this far. It looks like the surface rust/oxidation made its way under and id like to remove that before it all gets sealed back up. Phase two of this tear down will require me to build up a support structure from the chassis jig up to the rear super structure of the car. I need to brace it all because the back half of the car is still barely being supported by the rear frame rails. I will also need to replace those! Once everything is mocked up and fits right I will be sandblasting everything and epoxy coating all of the inner structure with BASF R-M series epoxy.

[vette427-sbc]

Good progress! Is the 9" for the 'bird or the rambler?

[Buryingthesun]

Good progress! Is the 9" for the 'bird or the rambler?

Oh its for the Firebird, it came out of my buddys 69' Camaro so its all bolt in.