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    Results 41 to 52 of 52
    1. #41
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      Nashville/ Tampa
      Posts
      724
      Country Flag: United States
      You can do wrap yourself, at least most of it, and it looks good when on. I did my hood, trunk and door so far and (for a first attempt) it's pretty solid. Looks good when clean, most people are surprised to learn it's not paint. Going to finish the rest sometime this summer then go with blue or silver in 3-4 years. Not really sure I trust Joe Rando painter with the carbon hood and trunk anyway. $20k paint vs $500 in wrap will not affect how much fun I have with my car. The difference will pay for several vacations overseas and/ or an LT1/ 8 speed setup with plenty left to spare.
      https://www.instagram.com/gen_v_lt1_chevelle/


      Do not buy anything from Frankie's Used Auto Parts. Ever.
      Chevelle ̶a̶l̶m̶o̶s̶t̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶i̶s̶h̶e̶d̶ L92/200-4r now Gen V LT1 and T56- https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...nvertible.html

    2. #42
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      645
      So more progress. Cab, doors and hood are painted. Cab back on the frame. One door is color sanded and buffed. I have to say that door looks great. Very sharp reflection from the shop lights.

      Two coats of red on the inside of the cab. Two coats of clear.

      On the outside three coats of color and four coats of clear. No color sanding and buffing for me. Per the body shop owner it's no time for me to practice.


      It's been very cool so far. I've got about 100-120 hours in on the project body work so far. Doesn't include any of the work prior stripping and sanding blasting edges.

      It was funny because when I bought the truck it had the "prefect" CA desert patina but needed all the sealer replaced and small dents pulled. I asked my wife if she wanted patina or shiny and she said shiny. No problem with patina projects but if I was spending time doing all the body work I wouldn't do fake patina. Again only my opinion but I think patina look is going to be like the mid 80's all one color street rods and cars. Going to date them quite badly in the next few years.

      The color is 2017 Ford Vermillion red. A bit darker red than the Chevy Victory red. Hope that Ford color doesn't slow down the truck too much! I will get some pics posted.

    3. #43
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      Indpls, IN
      Posts
      613
      Country Flag: United States
      Color sanding and buffing didn't seem any harder then learning body work and paint.

      Let's see some pics!

    4. #44
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Tinley Park, IL
      Posts
      1,163
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Jetfixr320 View Post
      And the life expectancy of wrap is? Just curious as I had read somewhere that it won't last as long as paint. But, I don't know where I read it.
      I'm thinking a garage kept car, wrap will last well over 5 years. Our fleet at work is wrapped, going on 2 years now. They spend their life outside, and are pressure washed by an industrial fleet wash company every other week. No bubbles, peeling, cracks etc.

      Nick ~
      1969 Cutlass

    5. #45
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      Indpls, IN
      Posts
      613
      Country Flag: United States
      I called 3 local company's about doing a partial wrap on the front half of my 16' enclosed trailer. Solid color, no graphics. They all quoted around $1500. I thought that was pretty high.

    6. #46
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Dallas TX
      Posts
      1,633
      Quote Originally Posted by GoodysGotaCuda View Post
      Mine was $6k out the door and I am very pleased with the results. Some metal work involved, Prime > Block > Prime > Block > Color > Clear

      ShopLine materials, for me, it will do just fine. It's hard to get a paint today that doesn't last pretty darn well. The car sees quite a bit of drive time and is not a SEMA/trailer queen.

      The car was picked up as show and dropped off as shown within 3-4months. I will use them again when it's time to paint my Warlock.

      Attachment 148643
      Who did the work?

    7. #47
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      645
      So costs are all in.

      My doing 99% of all the basic sanding.

      Body shop did all the color sanding and cut and buff.

      I had about 300 hours from start to finish. Dent repair first. Skim coat sanding. One layer of "poly" primer sanding. Two sanding sessions of regular primer. First with 180 and then the next with 320.

      With the body shop prep for spraying the primer and doing all the prep for final paint the cost for paint materials and prep was very even.



      Material costs $2600. 6 quarts of paint and the stuff needed to support the paint. $2900 for their labor costs. When I complete assembly I will get some pics.


    8. #48
      Join Date
      Jan 2008
      Posts
      116
      For 15k it would be worth finding a roller and transferring your drive train, 7500 is realistic, 28k is just stupid. Driven cars get dinged and scratched, so why worry about it.

      Mike
      86 Buick GN, Stage 2 V6, Twin EFR Turbos

    9. #49
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Chit-ca-go
      Posts
      459
      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      Attachment 148585Attachment 148586

      I painted this car for Kevin (qnitro on here) for less than $10k and he loves it. Bare metal frame off with epoxy and bedliner on the underside, quality SPI paint. Is it perfect? No, but that was not the goal. Nice clean driver was the goal and he won’t be crying every time he gets a stone chip.

      Don
      Looks great Don! Do you have a before pic and rough idea of how many man hours you have into it?
      1971 Firebird
      2017 Slipstream SS

    10. #50
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,495
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by cpd004 View Post
      Looks great Don! Do you have a before pic and rough idea of how many man hours you have into it?
      No before pics but it got lower rear quarter patches, trunk drop offs, lower fender patches and a small door corner patch if I remember right. Mini tubs and DSE subframe connectors. Bare metal paint. Roughly 300 hours. Kevin won best Camaro at Goodguys a couple of weeks ago. He did a great job finishing the car.

      Don
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    11. #51
      Join Date
      May 2018
      Location
      way east on a rock
      Posts
      155
      I'm going a bit different route. My buddy that owns a body shop is taking the car, installing the mini tubs and doing the trans tunnel to fit the TKO, and then helping me marry the body to the new Schwartz chassis. I'm going to finish it mechanically and drive it as is for a while and then at some point I'm going to take it back apart and do a rotisserie job. The body has 36,000 garaged miles on it so it's presentable for now. Body shops out here are stupid expensive, so the car is going to Pa. to a guy that's really good, reasonable, and knows how to keep a schedule.

    12. #52
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Posts
      1,853
      And you went black ! Bravo well done
      From a place you will not see comes a sound you will not hear....

      67 Camaro In progress

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...-Tap-67-camaro

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