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    Results 21 to 40 of 52
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,489
      Country Flag: United States
      Hi Mike. That’s right, I keep my overhead low, don’t mark up materials and only work on one car at a time. I feel SPI quality is as good as or in most cases better than PPG for a lot less money.



      Anyway, my point was that a little homework and a little compromise might find someone a better price than some on here are quoting. I see it often, guys looking for SEMA quality for a car they intend to actually drive on a regular basis. Makes no sense to me and those projects often stall or guys have to raid their 401k to get it finished....

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      St George Utah
      Posts
      1,243
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by MuscleRodz View Post
      Looks awesome Don for the money, but your also not feeding a shop. SPI materials will help on cost definitely as well and a good product. Today, to use Axalta , PPG, or equivlent your going to figure $3500-$5000 in materials start to finish and 300-400 hours after colorsand and buff. Just insert hourly rate and that will be a ballpark cost for a reputable shop NOT including any metal repair.
      I would second this as a good guide.

      The one thing i can say from dealing with this for the last 15 years, DO NOT and i mean DO NOT take your car to a body shop that does insurance work. it will NEVER get done. Go look a the shop if there is even 1 car sitting covered in dust that is how yours will look in a month and nothing will get done on it, heard the story hundreds of time.
      Blake Foster
      www.speedtechperformance.com
      435-628-4300
      St. George Utah.
      it's always sunny here.

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Posts
      220
      why dont you try your local technical school?
      they always welcome in cars to teach the students. and do it for free. you can provide them with the primer and paint and the teacher is always there to make sure it is done right
      1969 frost green camaro
      LS3
      Speedtech pro touring front subframe
      ridetech rear 4-link
      moser 12 bolt eaton tru trac 3.73

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Oct 2017
      Location
      Caldwell, OH
      Posts
      38
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm going to stop by and talk to a shop tomorrow. We'll see what they have to say.

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Location
      DFW, Texas
      Posts
      422
      Country Flag: United States
      Mine was $6k out the door and I am very pleased with the results. Some metal work involved, Prime > Block > Prime > Block > Color > Clear

      ShopLine materials, for me, it will do just fine. It's hard to get a paint today that doesn't last pretty darn well. The car sees quite a bit of drive time and is not a SEMA/trailer queen.

      The car was picked up as show and dropped off as shown within 3-4months. I will use them again when it's time to paint my Warlock.

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      1972 Plymouth 'Cuda - Not LS-swapped, 5.7L Hemi [MS3 Gold Box], T56 Magnum 6-speed - 'Cuda Build Page
      1976 Dodge D100 - Warlock
      2016 Subaru WRX - E30 Tune

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Fredericksburg, VA.
      Posts
      3,155
      Country Flag: United States
      This whole paint topic is depressing to me. It takes soooo much time and soooo much money to have it done properly. Once you finally find a shop it is a crap shoot what the outcome will look like. Ideally, I would like to find a shop where I could help with the labor in exchange for a break on the price. Unfortunately, I have not found any takers yet. I'm beginning to think that there might be something to having it wrapped.
      Steve Hayes
      "Dust Off"
      68 Camaro

      Given sufficient initial acceleration, even pigs can fly!

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      LA - Lower Alabama
      Posts
      560
      I don't know how true this is, but I had a guy at a paint shop tell me once that the Maaco paint guys are actually really, really, good at spraying a car. They probably spray twice as many cars as a normal insurance body shop. The catch is they are stuck with using low-grade paint, and most of the paint jobs look bad because they just tape off the trim rather than removing it.

      So the suggestion was, if you can do the body work yourself, remove all the trim, glass, etc., and you take them good quality paint, you can actually get a really good paint job for a good price. Essentially, you're doing all the work and just paying someone that can lay down a uniform coat of paint.

      I'm not sure I could commit to taking my car to Maaco once I'd spent all the time getting my car ready, though.
      Dude are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      924
      Country Flag: United States
      each to their own, I fully understand someone who spends 20k on a mild pro-touring build not wanting to double(or more) their build cost on paint, but I also understand someone spending 6 figures not wanting to settle for a Maaco style finish. There's no denying that true pro-touring is expensive, but paint can range from $5k - $100k+, each person has to choose their own worth in the process and be realistic to their total budget

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      641
      I'm in the middle of painting my 68 C10. A local body shop is "letting" me do all the body work and block sanding myself with their supervision. I've never done any body work before. I stripped the truck to bare metal and painted the bottom prior to taking it to the body shop.

      It's time consuming and dirty dusty work. First fix all the small dings with a stud gun/puller. Skim coat body filler as needed. Then at least two coats of sanding primer. Block sanding between each coat. To most annoying thing is that when I think it's good the body shop owner takes a look and then says "keep sanding".

      So I don't take up allot of his shop space with the exception of the cab he sprays the primer coats and then I take them home to sand. Fenders, grill hood and doors.

      They will spray the sealer and then the paint. I may get to help color sand. Maybe you can ask a local body shop to do the same thing?

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,489
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Jim Brink View Post
      I'm in the middle of painting my 68 C10. A local body shop is "letting" me do all the body work and block sanding myself with their supervision. I've never done any body work before. I stripped the truck to bare metal and painted the bottom prior to taking it to the body shop.

      It's time consuming and dirty dusty work. First fix all the small dings with a stud gun/puller. Skim coat body filler as needed. Then at least two coats of sanding primer. Block sanding between each coat. To most annoying thing is that when I think it's good the body shop owner takes a look and then says "keep sanding".

      So I don't take up allot of his shop space with the exception of the cab he sprays the primer coats and then I take them home to sand. Fenders, grill hood and doors.

      They will spray the sealer and then the paint. I may get to help color sand. Maybe you can ask a local body shop to do the same thing?
      You were incredibly fortunate to find a shop like that imho. I hope you remember him at Christmas....

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Oct 2017
      Location
      Caldwell, OH
      Posts
      38
      Country Flag: United States
      That would be nice to find a shop like that. I stopped by the shop and talked to them for well over an hour. Took me back and showed me some of the stuff he's working on. 63' Vette right now and a 68 Camaro. They looked very nice. There's 3 people that work there. They do some collision work. But 1 guy is always working on the other projects and not insurance work. It would be a few months before he can get me in which is fine with me cause I still got some work to do. I may talk to a few others and make a decision.

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      641
      Yes I was lucky to find this body shop. He is very busy with insurance and other mostly rust repairs on later model trucks. Our agreement was a hand shake and that I would see it thru to the end. Oh and make sure I bring the right brand beer. It's been interesting.

      Today I finished sanding the first coat of primer on the cab. Tomorrow it gets it second coat of primer. More sanding next week. I can hardly wait.

      Actually I talked to three body shops and they said I could do the body work and sanding. All said I would need to sign something so if I was hurt in their shop they would not be liable.

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      NE Arkansas
      Posts
      616
      Quote Originally Posted by SD67 View Post
      If projects in the shop don't progress after 3 months, get another recommendation and repeat. Its called paint jail for a reason.
      Yep I have Been through that https://sites.google.com/site/paintjail/home
      My build thread

      http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=241037

      Paint Jail Experience

      https://sites.google.com/site/paintjail/home

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
      Country Flag: United States
      I agree with the fact that not all cars are SEMA cars. Really, I would say that the percentages are really low. I say spend what you can on your paint job but remember, it's your car and how you want to use it should reflect how much you are willing to spend out of the budget. There are a lot of really nice paint jobs I see all the time that are daily drivers..

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      124
      Very interesting topic. I have a local guy here that does a lot of first gen Camaros and Firebirds. Uses PPG and produces some very nice looking paint jobs, at least in my opinion. He starts at 10k which includes no metal work or repairs. He also said that while most hope for the 10k price, pretty much all have secrets once the paint comes off. With that,he averages $13-20k.

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      HILLBILLY HOLLYWOOD, TENNESSEE!!!
      Posts
      2,041
      Wrap it for $3K and get on with life AND the completion of the vehicle!
      Mike

      Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

      www.musclecardeals.com

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Tinley Park, IL
      Posts
      1,163
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by vintageracer View Post
      Wrap it for $3K and get on with life AND the completion of the vehicle!
      Agreed. Not as crisp as paint with clear coat, but for a driver I'd be thrilled with a good wrap job.


      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjDa7TIRBh8

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6xLJgN7d3I

      Nick ~
      1969 Cutlass

    18. #38
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      Indpls, IN
      Posts
      613
      Country Flag: United States
      And the life expectancy of wrap is? Just curious as I had read somewhere that it won't last as long as paint. But, I don't know where I read it.

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Sep 2016
      Location
      LA - Lower Alabama
      Posts
      560
      I think I've read in the neighborhood of 5 years for a non-daily. I don't have any personal experience with it, but I'm considering it if and when I need to paint my car.

      I think you could also make an argument that you don't really save any money in the long run if you re-wrap it every five years. But the flip side to that is you get to change up the look of your car every five years.
      Dude are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

    20. #40
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      The cost of paint jobs is why I am building "derelicts" from now on. I would much rather find a clean, original car, and just do the mechanical work. Of course I am also willing to build oddball cars, which makes finding clean examples a lot easier than when trying to build a 1st gen Camaro.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

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