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    Results 21 to 40 of 66
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
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      NJ
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      Single adjustable ridetech all around the car. will post pics tonight.



      Thanks for the help


    2. #22
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      Oct 2004
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      NJ
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    3. #23
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
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      NJ
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      And to answer the question of why I need to have the ride height that high, it is not the rear clearance that is the issue. It is the front, the headers hang way too low to lower the car. I could probably drop it down a half inch in the rear.

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
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      2,838
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      Britt will want to know, and so do I. What is the extended length of your shocks or what part number do you have?

      What is the center to center measurement of the shock at ride height?

      What is the spring height at ride height?
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
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      Curious to know if you ever lowered the car to make the lower bar parallel to the ground to see if it impacted the wheel hop....

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
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      NJ
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      24159901

    7. #27
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      Oct 2004
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      The car was slightly lower, I raised it up about an inch. The wheel hop got worse when I raised it up. If I get a clear day I will try softest shock setting, and then I will lower the car and see how it is.

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
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      Left spring appears to be more compressed than the right based on the adjuster nut position on the shock body.

      Can’t wait to hear what Andrew’s experts say....

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    9. #29
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      Oct 2004
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      NJ
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      Yes, forgot about that. Car sits even.

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
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      Is there a similar offset on the front shock adjuster nuts?

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    11. #31
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      Oct 2004
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      NJ
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      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      Is there a similar offset on the front shock adjuster nuts?

      Don
      fronts are equal

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
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      NJ
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      Quote Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift View Post
      Britt will want to know, and so do I. What is the extended length of your shocks or what part number do you have?



      What is the center to center measurement of the shock at ride height?

      What is the spring height at ride height?
      P#24159901

      center to center is around 15.5 inch

      spring on left side is 8.5 inch right is 9.25 inch at ride height.

      just a quick measurement, had to crawl under the car to get it. I will jack it up and get exact tomorrow night if needed.

      this scaling of the car was with me in it, 1 inch lower than it is now.

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    13. #33
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
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      Mountain Springs, Texas
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      Your shock has an extended length of 16.4”. You’ve only got around .9” of rebound at ride height.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    14. #34
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      Oct 2004
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      NJ
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      crap

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Des Moines, IA
      Posts
      586
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      Those shocks should be roughly 14.5" between mounting bolts at ride height. So you are an inch too high, as you've noted.
      It's not terribly uncommon to hear about altered ride height based on exhaust clearance. Unfortunately the suspension is designed to work best in one spot. Fortunately changing exhaust is a lot less expensive than modifying the suspension.

      The uneven preload required to reach an even height has me a bit concerned.
      Let's run some numbers quick. . .you stated, "spring on left side is 8.5 inch right is 9.25 inch at ride height."
      Both springs are 12" free length, 200# rate.
      Left Rear; preloaded 3.5", so it's holding up 700lbs.
      Right Rear; preloaded 2.75", so it's holding up 550lbs.
      These should be closer. That tells me something is not square or something is binding. . .neither of which will help with the wheel hop issue.

      If you were to remove the rear coil overs all together and stroke the suspension does it move easily and evenly? If so, something might not be square. If not, there's a bind.

      Though I'm not intimately familiar with the AM 4-link, it is still a 4-link and general rules apply. I can say the only way to help the wheel hop is to lower the rear to the designed ride height.

      Our HQ shocks are single adjustable, meaning they only change rebound. So if you have them cranked full stiff once the weight transfers to the rear and the shocks are compressed the rebound is trying to keep them compressed.
      We run very little compression valving, as we feel compression just adds spring rate for a short amount of time, thereby making ride quality suffer on quick bumps (impact harshness).
      If I were tuning the shocks I'd start around 12 clicks out from full stiff (full stiff is knob turned all the way clockwise). This is a pretty good compromise, and a general setting for rear 4-links, and we can tune from there.

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      NJ
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      765
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      Quote Originally Posted by marolf101x View Post
      Those shocks should be roughly 14.5" between mounting bolts at ride height. So you are an inch too high, as you've noted.
      It's not terribly uncommon to hear about altered ride height based on exhaust clearance. Unfortunately the suspension is designed to work best in one spot. Fortunately changing exhaust is a lot less expensive than modifying the suspension.

      The uneven preload required to reach an even height has me a bit concerned.
      Let's run some numbers quick. . .you stated, "spring on left side is 8.5 inch right is 9.25 inch at ride height."
      Both springs are 12" free length, 200# rate.
      Left Rear; preloaded 3.5", so it's holding up 700lbs.
      Right Rear; preloaded 2.75", so it's holding up 550lbs.
      These should be closer. That tells me something is not square or something is binding. . .neither of which will help with the wheel hop issue.

      If you were to remove the rear coil overs all together and stroke the suspension does it move easily and evenly? If so, something might not be square. If not, there's a bind.

      Though I'm not intimately familiar with the AM 4-link, it is still a 4-link and general rules apply. I can say the only way to help the wheel hop is to lower the rear to the designed ride height.

      Our HQ shocks are single adjustable, meaning they only change rebound. So if you have them cranked full stiff once the weight transfers to the rear and the shocks are compressed the rebound is trying to keep them compressed.
      We run very little compression valving, as we feel compression just adds spring rate for a short amount of time, thereby making ride quality suffer on quick bumps (impact harshness).
      If I were tuning the shocks I'd start around 12 clicks out from full stiff (full stiff is knob turned all the way clockwise). This is a pretty good compromise, and a general setting for rear 4-links, and we can tune from there.
      Thanks for putting in the time to help. I will mess with it this weekend, I will pull the coil overs and articulate the suspension and see what happens.

      Springs are 225 lb/in.

      Would double adjustable help? I can go down maybe half an inch lower , should I change to a different length shock?

      I can easily move the lower bar mounting points, the uppers would take a lot more work. I know moving the lowers and not the uppers change the geometry, but I would sacrifice some handling for no wheel hop. It is a street car that I just want to drive not race. Let me know what you think, and thank you again.

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Des Moines, IA
      Posts
      586
      Country Flag: United States
      Sorry for the rate screw up. . .here's the corrected info:
      Both springs are 12" free length, 225# rate.
      Left Rear; preloaded 3.5", so it's holding up 787.5lbs.
      Right Rear; preloaded 2.75", so it's holding up 618.75lbs.

      Adjustable shocks:
      I know you can accomplish drag racing type launches without wheel hop using the single adjustable shocks you have if the 4-link geometry is correct. . .we do it all the time with our stuff.
      I feel compression is the springs job. . .the suspension compresses, the spring absorbs that force.
      However, rebound is used to slow the extension of the suspension.

      If you feel you need compression adjustment, please use a quality shock absorber. Most inexpensive double adjust shocks have the knobs at the bottom of the shock body. This is a twin tube shock, and not nearly as capable as the monotube shocks you have now.
      Last edited by marolf101x; 12-13-2017 at 04:34 AM.

    18. #38
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      765
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      Pulled the coilovers, moved the suspension up and down. No bind, goes up and down evenly. Although the upper bushings on the rear are deforming and coming apart. I ordered the new bars with the johnny joints. I will have to modify the brackets a little to fit them.

      Shocks were set 5 clicks back from full stiff. I will lower the car as much as I can, replace the bars, soften the shock setting, and see how it is.

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      NJ
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      765
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      What came first, wheel hop then damaged bushings, or damaged bushings then wheel hop?

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      New arms with Johnny joints

    20. #40
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
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      15,971
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      I say the bushings got damaged because they are poly, and thus weren't designed to articulate. I bet the suspension moves a lot smoother now with the johnny joints...

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
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