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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    San Bernardino, CA
    Posts
    827

    LS powered 67 Mustang re-do

    Hey guys, I am re-doing my build thread on my LS powered 67 Mustang Coupe. Photobucket's new image policy ruined my old build plus it was just pages and pages of mistakes and building blunders. I am going to post some of the highlights and the new direction of the build.

    The purpose of this build was to stick an LS in a classic mustang and not have to cut out the shock towers or run a steering rack. I was able to make my own motor mounts and hack up some LS3 camaro exhaust manifolds and position everything around a borgeson box.

    Specs:

    5.3 LM7 engine (canton front sump oil pan, dirty dingo dingo-slider engine mounts)
    F-body T56 six speed (Hurst shifter, LS7 clutch, modern drive line hydraulic clutch conversion)
    8.8 rear (fox body)
    3.73 gear
    Borgeson steering box
    SN95 GT rear disc brakes
    99-04 Cobra front disc brakes
    Bendix power booser, 1' bore baer re-master, wilwood combo prop valve
    18x9.5/18x8 riddler cast aluminum wheels (275/225) tires
    Holley HP EFI
    Aeromotive phantom 340 fuel system
    Champion 3 row radiator
    C6 PWM fan
    Stock front suspension
    4.5 leaf lowering springs + 1" blocks
    Tinman Fab subframe connectors

    *** At one point the car had a 76mm single turbo. I still plan on adding the turbo again, I just need to fab up a better passenger exhaust manifold.

    Here she is the day I brought her home.





    8.8 axle with all the brackets cut off



    Firewall mods and heater delete





    Engine mounts were made from 3/16 plate and slide over the lower control arm mounts and bolt in. The engine is offset to the passenger side for steering box clearance.







    At one time the car had a 4l60e and i had to hack up the trans tunnel. Im glad I did, the T56 needed it.



    I used a Wheel-fit 45 to mock up my tires before buying rims. I settled on 18" riddler wheels. They were stupid cheap from summit racing. They came in a gunmetal color but I had them powdercoated gloss black to match the theme of the car.












    Here is the final engine position. The 5.3 accessory brackets clear the hood as well. I got frustrated with the turbo setup as I originally had the LS3 manifolds pointing forward and had all the hot side pipes in front of the crank. I now plan to install a loop of exhaust pipe from the driver side manifold to the passenger side and build an outlet from the passenger manifold to a T4 turbo flange. Basically make it look like the hooker style manifold, unless i can make their manifold fit with my engine offset.





    More to come tomorrow. I am going to do some extensive mock up and take more pictures.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    CT.
    Posts
    730
    Looking forward to more.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    The Druid City
    Posts
    14,392
    Country Flag: United States
    Glad to see you back at it.

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    137
    Country Flag: United States
    Glad to see you're still plugging away at it. Photobucket sure screwed a lot of the builds on forums.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    San Bernardino, CA
    Posts
    827
    I did lots of mock up today trying to get everything in order so I can blow it all apart and paint the engine bay.

    Here we go...

    Fit my ceramic coated Cobra PRB calipers for the first time today. I am using Mustang Steve brackets.



    I had to modify my pedal support bracket in order to fit this booster in the car. The back side of the booster has a lot more metal and larger studs than the original midland style that was in the car. Not pictured but the clutch master cylinder fits with this booster as well.

    Pleased to see the Baer re-master slides right on in with lots of room around the shock tower.



    I scored a 68 Cougar steering column and brackets off ebay for pretty cheap a while back. Thus the reason for the borgeson box. I collapsed the steering shaft with a BFH and mocked up the 1/2 rag joint they recommended.





    Reinstalled my Pacific Thunder Performance Boss 302 style crossmember. I have Just enough room with the new engine position.





    I put the 5.3 accessory bracket in the bandsaw and cut off the original idler. I used a Dirty Dingo idler relocation kit and test fit the rest of the engine compartment jewelry.









    I spent the rest of the day with a wire wheel knocking off the layers of dirt under the car. I was surprised to see the factory red primer. Plans are to seam seal and hit the bare metal spots with some epoxy and spray a nice layer of u-pol raptor under and inside the car as well as the trunk.

    Also I measured for a a new driveshaft. I am going have my old 69 Camaro TH400 driveshaft shortened, I am just waiting for a specific u-joint to arrive I ordered from Denny's so I can install the T56 slip yoke. The driveshaft has some odd ball GM 3R u-joints where my 8.8 companion yoke and trans slip yoke are 1310.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    San Bernardino, CA
    Posts
    827
    Got some work done yesterday. I have the cooling system knocked out and I picked up my newly shortened driveshaft.

    I ordered a 3 row Champion Radiator for a big block mustang and had ls1 sized hose outlets added in the traditional Chevrolet locations. This radiator has caused a lot of frustrations. The reproduction saddle mounts for a big block mustang do not fit at all. I had to order two upper brackets and cut one up and weld in almost an inch of material to make it fit the top tank of the radiator. I also had to order two sets of bushings and cut them in half to make up for the added radiator width. The bottom saddle mounts were too wide and had too much material for the radiator to sit flush. I had to grind away material and cut the bushings down to make the radiator sit flush. I then squeezed them in a bench vice to get them to hug the radiator.





    I also took a hacksaw to my C6 corvette fan and made it fit up to the radiator. I used 1/4-20 U nuts along with stainless cap head screws and steel spacers to mount them. I had to flip the fan upside down to make it sit flush to core. It worked out great and only sticks out 4". The fan Relay looks close to the upper radiator hose in the pictures but actually has lots of clearance.







    I welded in some tabs on my axle to locate the rear brake hoses. I found out the calipers and hoses are from a SN95 mustang, 94/95 to be specific. The brackets on the hoses would normally attach to the lower control arm mount on the 8.8 but I cut it off to add the leaf spring perches.





    I overpaid to have this driveshaft shortened. The guy at the shop cut off the weld yokes at both ends and gave me matching spicer u-joints so I wouldn't have to run conversion joints. $250 later for cut, weld, balance, and 2 yokes, and 2 u-joints I have a complete drive line.





    As you can see my car is a greasy mess. I hit the floor pans with a wire wheel and was pleased to see the factory red oxide primer. I am going to wire wheel and degrease the under side as much as I can in preparation of the raptor liner.

    I also ordered a hooker passenger side turbo exhaust manifold. It has been two weeks and summit keeps pushing the ship date forward. This is keeping me from removing the drive train. I really want to add my turbo back and like the idea of the drivers side manifold feeding the passenger manifold and the passenger manifold then feeding the turbo. I purchased some schedule 40 steel pipe and butt weld elbows to modify my existing passenger exhaust manifold to mimic the hooker setup. I will only go that route if the hooker manifold does not fit. I will also buy a second set of LS3 camaro manifolds as a precaution since I designed my engine placement around them.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    The Druid City
    Posts
    14,392
    Country Flag: United States
    I'm eager to see if the Holley turbo log fits!!!

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    San Bernardino, CA
    Posts
    827
    Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
    I'm eager to see if the Holley turbo log fits!!!

    Andrew
    The suspense is killing me! I have no idea why it is taking so long to ship that manifold!

    Back to the grind...





    I dropped the rear end out of the car and went to work on the back end and the trunk area. I removed almost all of the loose dirt and grease from under the car. I burned up a harbor freight grinder and ran the wire wheel until all the bristles fell out. Next plan of attack is to soap the underside and pressure wash the remainder. I have a few surface rust spots that will get rust encapsulator before the raptor liner.

    I might as well remove the nasty coating in the wheel wheels and what is left on the inside quarter panels. What is the best way to remove this stuff? Heat and a scraper? What about the tar like coating that is flaking off around the back seat and kick panel areas? it gums up the wire wheel and sticks to everything inside the car. I would hate to have to sandblast it off.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    San Bernardino, CA
    Posts
    827
    I called summit racing to get an ETA on the holley passenger side turbo manifold. They didn't have a set date but the Ohio warehouse had the complete set of manifolds in stock for an additional cost of $150. I said screw it and told em to send me the set to expedite the project. So we shall see how that pans out. Tuesday is the estimated arrival.

    fingers crossed the manifold fits.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    455
    Country Flag: Canada
    Quote Originally Posted by DCx View Post
    I called summit racing to get an ETA on the holley passenger side turbo manifold. They didn't have a set date but the Ohio warehouse had the complete set of manifolds in stock for an additional cost of $150. I said screw it and told em to send me the set to expedite the project. So we shall see how that pans out. Tuesday is the estimated arrival.

    fingers crossed the manifold fits.
    Not to be an a-hole but this is hot rodding , nothing ever fits ! lol

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    The Druid City
    Posts
    14,392
    Country Flag: United States


    I can tell you right now that, at a minimum, the Holley log will crash into the D slider mount.

    This post had pictures, but they aren't loading right now for some reason.

    https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post19732041

    From the measurements that I took, my big concern was that the log was going to crash into the passenger shock tower...

    The instruction sheet has the critical dimensions shown:

    http://documents.holley.com/199r11188.pdf

    Andrew
    Last edited by andrewb70; 10-06-2017 at 07:51 AM.
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    76
    Country Flag: United States
    I love the build! An LS in a Stang is the right thing to do. Only I would have done different is chop the shock towers out. I admire you wanting to keep them, but after years of fighting them on my 69 Fastback, it would have the first to go. All the mock up and fab is awesome, super great build. FYI, ditch the leafs after you get it running. You'll thank me later.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    San Bernardino, CA
    Posts
    827
    I found this picture.



    Real bummer to see the motor mount interference in the post above. I really don't want to hack up those dirty dingo mounts. they were expensive and so nicely designed. I have a plan B that requires cutting of the LS3 manifold and grafting in a section of schedule 40 pipe and making the exit similar to the hooker.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    The Druid City
    Posts
    14,392
    Country Flag: United States
    Quote Originally Posted by DCx View Post
    I found this picture.



    Real bummer to see the motor mount interference in the post above. I really don't want to hack up those dirty dingo mounts. they were expensive and so nicely designed. I have a plan B that requires cutting of the LS3 manifold and grafting in a section of schedule 40 pipe and making the exit similar to the hooker.
    It's hard to really reference that picture, but I suspect the problem will be the manifold hitting the shock tower right around the #4 cylinder. That's the widest part according to the dimensions shown in the instruction sheet.

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    San Bernardino, CA
    Posts
    827
    Not much to add to the build. I spent the better part of the afternoon stripping the undercoating from the passenger wheel well. I used all sorts of different scrapers, heat from a torch, and finally brake clean and a wire wheel. All that is left over is some of the factory red oxide primer.


  16. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    San Bernardino, CA
    Posts
    827
    The hooker manifold was a big flop. I took it out of the box once, held it up to my motor then packed it back up. I wasn't about to ruin my engine mounts and try to make it work.

    SO... I decided to make my own header that mimicked the hooker. I had a set of 1/2 thick 1.75" port flanges laying around so i said why the hell not! I made it out of 1.5" and 2.5" schedule 40 butt weld elbows and tees. Its not completed but you get the idea. The back of the engine will get a long radius elbow that points down and the front of the header will get two short radius elbows in a S shape that will exit to a 3" transition next to the crank pulley, similar to the hooker.

    This is as far as I got today. I welded everything with the flange fully bolted to the cylinder head. I hope it didn't warp.





    I welded the flange pipes in small sections starting with the center and working my way outward.





    as you can tell by looking at the tees I had no system to assure they were all the same length. lol. They butt welded just fine though.



    I test fitted it in the car and it fits awesome.



    Here is a shot down the center of the header.I had to cut and grind down two casting standoffs on the block to get the tees to tuck in tight. All I have to weld up now is everything that it facing the block.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    The Druid City
    Posts
    14,392
    Country Flag: United States
    I was afraid of that! Glad you are making it work...

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    sw Kansas
    Posts
    1,147
    Country Flag: United States
    Big pain, big gain.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    San Bernardino, CA
    Posts
    827
    Had a few helping hands today and a slight change of plans for the turbo log. Managed to finish welding the flange and the tees. What do you think?







    The engine is cocked to the side on the engine stand. The up pipe is actually exactly 90*



    The down pipe will clear the shock tower and should easily transition from 3" to 3.5" straight out of the exhaust housing. I need to determine waste gate placement and order some 1.75" DOM tubing. Not sure if I like the T4 transition i got on ebay. Its slightly magnetic, im sure its stainless. Its a CNC 3" pipe to T4 flange. Since the schedule 40 tubing im using has such a thick wall I can just weld it to the 2.5inlet no problem.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    San Bernardino, CA
    Posts
    827
    Just chuggin along on the turbo log manifold. I cut a 45* elbow in half and used roughly a 20* angle to mount the T4 flange and exhaust housing. Looks like a 3.5" down pipe is doable. The compressor housing fits nicely under the hood.






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