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    Results 141 to 160 of 305
    1. #141
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Location
      Golden Valley AZ
      Posts
      77
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by joeko23 View Post
      Thanks guys!

      Here’s the link. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Neoprene-EP...4AAOSwCKdfjgO8

      It’s really cheap considering you get over 230sq ft which is way more than enough. The whole roll weighs maybe 30lbs. It’s very easy to work with because it can be stretched in multiple directions and it comes with the glue on one side so you don’t have to deal with any messy glue. This material is 1/8” thick and that’s what’s recommended to use from soundeadenershowdown. They also recommend to double it up on the floor and firewall. This material also acts as a heat barrier according to soundeadenershowdown. At this stage the car feels totally different. The butyl layer that we all use made it sound less hollow when I slam the door. But with this material basically almost everywhere the car feels really solid. When I slam the door, all you hear is the latch closing and that’s it.

      I’m currently finishing up the Mass loaded vinyl layer and luckily saved the backing paper from the CCF to use as a template for the MLV this is making the project go much faster as you don’t need templates for the cutouts. MLV is much harder to work with because it’s very dense and bends only in one direction at a time. Also the glue I’m using HH-66 is very messy and smelly (like acetone). I’m probably getting high from it LOL.
      So ,you're laying the MLV right over the CCF? Hmmmm, yeah, it will be new car quiet inside I'm sure!! I'll have to check that sound deadener showdown site out and do some reading. Thanks Joe, it's looking awesome
      John Rodko
      69 RS/SS Camaro.
      Heidts Pro G IRS w/ 3:90 gear, Heidts Pro G front
      6.0L LQ4 to be TT
      6 speed or 4L80E, that is the question..hmmm
      Future plans for full TMI interior

    2. #142
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Great work on the sound deadener. Also for what it's worth when I was doing my research on the brake line loops, it seems that the consensus was that it was necessary with rubber bushings. I decided not to run any loops in my car, but rather a slight wave if you will to account for any flex. I'm running solid aluminum bushings so I doubt there will be any flex and I haven't had any issues in 3 years with my car.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    3. #143
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      696
      Yes, MLV has to go on top of the CCF. The CCF alone isn’t supposed to do much, just like putting in a carpet. The CCF acts as a decoupler basically just a separation between a hard surface. The MLV is really what’s supposed to make everything quiet and absorb/deaden outside sound. Hopefully it’ll be worth it. Check out the site. Has a lot of useful info.

    4. #144
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by joeko23 View Post
      Thanks guys!

      Here’s the link. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Neoprene-EP...4AAOSwCKdfjgO8

      It’s really cheap considering you get over 230sq ft which is way more than enough. The whole roll weighs maybe 30lbs. It’s very easy to work with because it can be stretched in multiple directions and it comes with the glue on one side so you don’t have to deal with any messy glue. This material is 1/8” thick and that’s what’s recommended to use from soundeadenershowdown. They also recommend to double it up on the floor and firewall. This material also acts as a heat barrier according to soundeadenershowdown. At this stage the car feels totally different. The butyl layer that we all use made it sound less hollow when I slam the door. But with this material basically almost everywhere the car feels really solid. When I slam the door, all you hear is the latch closing and that’s it.

      I’m currently finishing up the Mass loaded vinyl layer and luckily saved the backing paper from the CCF to use as a template for the MLV this is making the project go much faster as you don’t need templates for the cutouts. MLV is much harder to work with because it’s very dense and bends only in one direction at a time. Also the glue I’m using HH-66 is very messy and smelly (like acetone). I’m probably getting high from it LOL.
      Where did you source the MLV?

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    5. #145
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      696
      Here you go Andrew, I also bought a gallon of the HH-66 glue on Amazon as well. 100 sqft wasn’t enough of the MLV for me. But then again I’m really putting it everywhere. Even inside the rear quarter panels from trunk to where the door striker is. I haven’t measured but I need a large piece for the 2 doors, rear quarters, and a piece for the center of the trunk. I’m thinking maybe another 40sqft. So soundeadenershowdown site recommended 140 sqft which seems pretty accurate.

      https://www.amazon.com/Noise-Grabber...1458324&sr=8-4

      https://www.amazon.com/HH-66-PVC-Vin...1459131&sr=8-3

    6. #146
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      696
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      MLV layer done! I haven’t done the doors yet as they haven’t been painted. I’m also going to put a layer of CCF and MLV on the rear quarter panels to sandwich between the metal and the door/quarter panels.

      Also I was able to fit 3 layers of CCF on the roof since I had extra material. Hopefully that’ll insulate the car from from sun more.

    7. #147
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice! I am definitely going to do something like this as part of my GTO update. Any recommendations for what to use for thermal control on the firewall?
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    8. #148
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      696
      The site recommends the CCF as a thermal layer. I put 2 layers on the firewall, trans tunnel and entire floor front to back.

    9. #149
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by joeko23 View Post
      The site recommends the CCF as a thermal layer. I put 2 layers on the firewall, trans tunnel and entire floor front to back.
      Do you think any sort of foil lined barrier is desirable or necessary?

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    10. #150
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      696
      According to the site it says you can use a foil lined CCF for firewall and trans tunnel. You can use this, it’s available in different sizes. I don’t think you’ll need that much if you only do firewall, trans tunnel and floor. Then again it’s pretty cheap might as well use it in the roof etc.

      https://www.amazon.com/Reflective-Wh...1879298&sr=8-9

    11. #151
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks!
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    12. #152
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      696
      This was my first time doing brake lines. I tried to order a complete brake line kit from inline tube, but the amount of modifications I would need to make to make it work with the IRS, didn’t make sense. I have never made brake lines before so I picked up a brake flare tool and a bender along with nicopp lines. It wasn’t as hard as I thought. Hopefully, no leaks!
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    13. #153
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      924
      Country Flag: United States
      very few people divide the front right/left. I don't know why. I did mine like you

    14. #154
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      696
      Really? My proportioning valve has an output for 2 fronts and 1 rear. That’s why I did it

    15. #155
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      924
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by joeko23 View Post
      Really? My proportioning valve has an output for 2 fronts and 1 rear. That’s why I did it
      Correct, same thinking as me. But I see a lot of people just run one to the fronts, to a tee, and then blind one of the ports at the MC.

    16. #156
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      I did the same as you both and have two lines for each front brake caliper. I'm curious if there is any advantage/disadvantage to running them one way or another? When I brake, it will track straight. Not sure if there is a possibility for one to have slightly more pressure than another?



      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD


    17. #157
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Location
      Golden Valley AZ
      Posts
      77
      Country Flag: United States
      I believe that even from the factory they are divided at the distribution block, for two separate lines up front.
      Joe, what are you using for the rear flex lines. I've bought some AN fittings, but haven't got around to measuring or looking for the flex lines yet.
      John Rodko
      69 RS/SS Camaro.
      Heidts Pro G IRS w/ 3:90 gear, Heidts Pro G front
      6.0L LQ4 to be TT
      6 speed or 4L80E, that is the question..hmmm
      Future plans for full TMI interior

    18. #158
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      206
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      Here is Mark Stielows latest build. No loops.

      Don
      Hi Don, is Mark sharing details of his latest build somewhere?

      Thank you in advance!
      BR/Brian.

    19. #159
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      696
      John,

      I was really unsure what to do for the IRS. There isn’t much room there so I just did the simplest I think. I ran a single nicopp line from front to rear. I bought a brass Tee with 3/8-24 inverted flare female all three sides. Top input into the tee is the solid line front to back. Then I bought 3/8-24 inverted flare to an3 adapters. From the an3 I connected flex lines. My IRS kit came with flex lines and an elbow adapter that goes into the caliper.

      Here is a link to the 3/8-24 inverted flare to an3.

      https://www.amazon.com/Russell-64396...2483200&sr=8-3

      Brian,
      Here is a link to Stielows newest car:

      https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=57667

    20. #160
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Location
      Golden Valley AZ
      Posts
      77
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by joeko23 View Post
      John,

      I was really unsure what to do for the IRS. There isn’t much room there so I just did the simplest I think. I ran a single nicopp line from front to rear. I bought a brass Tee with 3/8-24 inverted flare female all three sides. Top input into the tee is the solid line front to back. Then I bought 3/8-24 inverted flare to an3 adapters. From the an3 I connected flex lines. My IRS kit came with flex lines and an elbow adapter that goes into the caliper.

      Here is a link to the 3/8-24 inverted flare to an3.

      https://www.amazon.com/Russell-64396...2483200&sr=8-3
      The AN fittings I have. I bought Stainless ones, just wondering about flex lines. I wasn't lucky enough for them to come with my setup
      John Rodko
      69 RS/SS Camaro.
      Heidts Pro G IRS w/ 3:90 gear, Heidts Pro G front
      6.0L LQ4 to be TT
      6 speed or 4L80E, that is the question..hmmm
      Future plans for full TMI interior

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