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    Page 6 of 12 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 ... LastLast
    Results 101 to 120 of 232
    1. #101
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      536
      Adjusted gaps and some nip tuck action on the front bumper. Hopefully next week I will be sending the car for seamseal, undercoat, paint interior, and firewall.

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    2. #102
      Join Date
      Jun 2017
      Location
      Idaho
      Posts
      164
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking great! I need to do that with my bumper next

    3. #103
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      536
      Something exciting is happening. Anyone care to guess what it is? Obviously besides different door handles. LOL

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    4. #104
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      536
      BAM! Tesla Model 3 door handles

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    5. #105
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,885
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks great.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    6. #106
      Join Date
      Jul 2019
      Location
      Ohio
      Posts
      88
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by conmax View Post
      i went with a dark gm red, called baroque red, from Cadillac.
      Nice to see you can fit that Eforce under a stock hood - is that an LS3? Beautiful colors

    7. #107
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      536
      Car went to body shop last week to be seam sealed, undercoated and painted inside. In the mean time I dropped off all suspension to powdercoating. Started painting the rear diff. Came out excellent. Itís a VHT metallic fire red. Paint looks super thick and shinny. Everything under the car will be satin black but the driveline (engine, trans, driveshaft and rear diff) will be metallic red. Since the outside of the car will be like a candy apple red. This is the closest color I found to a candy apple red and Iím really really happy with it!

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    8. #108
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      536
      Painted the engine, this was a huge hurdle for me. This is my first time taking apart an engine so I was very nervous about disassembly. So I took off 1 part at a time, labeled and took pics. Hopefully I can reassemble everything as quickly and easily as it all went apart. Iím still in the process of painting the supercharger and the accessory drives.

      The VHT system seems very high quality. I normally hate painting because 90% of painting is prep and I just donít have the patience to prep properly and get pretty poor results. Luckily my engine is fairly new (15í pullout) so it was fairly clean and obviously unpainted. I prepped with brake cleaner and wire brush. Then scuffed with a pad and then again a very liberal spray of brake clean. Let everything dry then sprayed 3 coats primer. Next day wiped off any dust and sprayed 4-5 coats of color. VHT recommends only 3 but since this is a metallic I had to use really really light coats to prevent runs. It was also hard to get into all the nooks and crannies which is another reason I had to do light coats. Then I put about 4 light coats of clear and the result is amazing! 3 hours later I was scared to touch it because it looks super wet but it was already dry to the touch. Iím really happy with how this turned out and basically needed only minimal prep to get almost a show quality paint job. If I had taken some sand paper and grinder to remove the casting imperfections and smooth everything out it truly would be show quality paint job.

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    9. #109
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      536
      I took apart the supercharger snout to replace the isolator with a solid one and to my surprise it was already solid. My engine is from a 15 ZL1 which was the last year of the LSA perhaps GM started putting in solid isolators? I also bought a griptec 2.38Ē pulley which required a 3 jaw puller to remove the stock pulley. Rented that for free from Advanced Auto, it came out super easy, but the new pulley doesnít fit the snout and needs to be machined. My dad said I was crazy to do this but it only required 1/16Ē all the way around so I marked it and started grinding it down with a grinder really slowly. Took me about an hour to do it, then I filed down the grinding marks, then used some sandpaper and it came out awesome! Pulley fits with no rubbing! Now I just need to press on the new hub.

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    10. #110
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      883
      Country Flag: United States
      man that engine came out nice, great work

    11. #111
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      536
      Sheís all dressed up with nowhere to go. Body is still stuck in bodyshop. They told me a couple of weeks and itís been a month and they said to give them 2 more weeks. Name:  C4F66AFA-F710-4AFB-A3EF-F8D49D4D3939.jpg
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    12. #112
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      413
      Country Flag: United States
      That's a body shop for you. I had my mother's truck in for a paint job, was told 1 month and it took 4. They uncovered a few hidden issues that had to be fixed in order to get it right, which extended the body prep time. Plus, your job isn't the only one they have to work on and being a for-profit shop they have to prioritize each day to make the best use of their time. The wait was worth it though, because it was stunning when complete. No pics though, because I wasn't thinking about posting anything on it at the time.

    13. #113
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      536
      Unfortunately, the restoration part of the body shop is only a 1 man show and the owner, the person who promised me couple of weeks has been out for a few weeks because heís sick. So far they scuffed everything down and seamsealed. Undercoating and painting inside and firewall is next.

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    14. #114
      Join Date
      Apr 2007
      Location
      New Jersey
      Posts
      450
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice. What accessory drive are you using.
      Doug L.
      68 RS/SS Conv. DSE/Ridetech and LSA/T56 rebuild in progress
      67 RS Coupe LS2/T56 named "NutKse"

    15. #115
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      536
      It’s stock LSA, with the CTS-V steering pump. I’m also running a dirty dingo low mount AC. I painted everything satin black. Shoulda powder coated it but it’s too late now.

    16. #116
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      536
      Hand painted those letters to match the metallic red on the engine

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    17. #117
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,434
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice job it all looks great!
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    18. #118
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      536
      Thanks! Can’t wait to start assembly!

    19. #119
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,069
      Country Flag: United States
      Excellent attention to detail there! I'm following along as I'm in the middle of an LSA / TR6060 (magnum hybrid) swap myself.


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    20. #120
      Join Date
      Nov 2020
      Posts
      30
      Country Flag: Canada
      cool build!

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