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    Results 61 to 80 of 227
    1. #61
      Join Date
      Jan 2020
      Location
      CA
      Posts
      15
      Are you planning on using the 6th gen console switches? Im interested in how you're going to wire that puppy up. i bought the same console recently and I'm not sure how to wire it up. Obviously, I can't use the traction control for its oem purpose but maybe I can use it for something else or at the least get the switches to light up. thanks



    2. #62
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      523
      I tried to play around with the switches, in the 6th gen camaro they work through a canbus system so they are very low voltage and work on transmitting different ohms to the cars brain. I think you can get the hazard switch to work because thatís a simple switch with fairly thick wires so itís probably 12v. The other switches I tried to wire up I believe the traction control switch on/off to my trunk popper since it was just a contact switch but it fryed the switch after a few times of popping the trunk. So those switches may not be 12v?

      I too was hoping to at least use the parking brake switch as I have an electronic parking brake but I havenít gotten that far yet. Someone suggested that I can use a TR12 module then I can get any canbus switch to do what I want, but I havenít gotten that far yet.

      Here is a link to the post:
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...48#post1248448

    3. #63
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Sulphur, La
      Posts
      462
      You could use relays and a DC to DC converter if you really wanted to use those switches. It would add many potential failure points though.

    4. #64
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,849
      Country Flag: United States
      I would have guessed it was the current and not the voltage that killed those switches.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    5. #65
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Sulphur, La
      Posts
      462
      I did not think that through, I agree with Don. Use the relays still but no converter required.

    6. #66
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      523
      Thanks guys. Im not that competent in electronics hence I was going to figure this out later hopefully with someone way more competent than myself. What do you guys think about using the Mercedes headlight switch (from the link)? Is the only way to make that work to use that tr12?

    7. #67
      Join Date
      Jan 2020
      Location
      CA
      Posts
      15
      Quote Originally Posted by joeko23 View Post
      Thanks guys. Im not that competent in electronics hence I was going to figure this out later hopefully with someone way more competent than myself. What do you guys think about using the Mercedes headlight switch (from the link)? Is the only way to make that work to use that tr12?
      I'm on the same boat as you man. I don't have that much experience with electrical. Hopefully, as time passes by we can figure it out.

    8. #68
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      523
      Big fabrication hurdle for me. I got the smooth firewall installed. I bought the firewall skin from ebay and asked them to put dimples across the top then fill them. I also bought a radiator closeout panel from them and asked them to do the same with the dimples. I used panel bond adhesive to glue it to the stock firewall, put a bunch of screws to hold it while the adhesive dried. Then, I filled the screw holes with weld and I welded the whole perimeter of the skin to the firewall.

      I think everyone knows what a first gen firewall looks like (Swiss cheeese). Here is mine. First pic is bare steel, second I put some primer so it doesn’t rust. There is zero body filler!

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    9. #69
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      866
      Country Flag: United States
      looks good, did you cut out any of the original firewall or leave it as is?

    10. #70
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      523
      I bent the lip flat around where the heater box used to go and I cut out a small section where the throttle cable used to go. That section protruded and I needed it flat.

    11. #71
      Join Date
      Dec 2015
      Posts
      16
      Country Flag: Canada
      Man this build is coming along Awesome. Killer job man. Iíd like to maybe try get a dash like that in my nova! Where on eBay did you get that firewall. Looks good

    12. #72
      Join Date
      Jan 2019
      Posts
      31
      Iím very excited about your build. Your ideas will help me to visualize where Iím going with my 69 Camaro Vert
      Attached Images Attached Images    

    13. #73
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      523
      This is the link where I bought the firewall plate. I sent them a message asking them to put dimples then fill them in. I also bought a matching radiator filler panel from them. When I was buying my stuff they said they were getting a bead roller soon. If you click on their other listings they have a lot of stuff bead rolled so they got the roller. Now anyone can have a truly custom firewall for a fraction of the price. It’s only limited to your imagination!

      https://www.ebay.com/itm/67-69-Chevy...YAAOSwBahVLBuU

      ProJus that looks like a really solid convertible, good luck with it!

    14. #74
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,483
      Country Flag: United States
      Did you think to prime the existing firewall and the back of the flat firewall plate before putting it on? I can see a potential for rust.

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats

    15. #75
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      523
      Ofcourse I primed it, then I grinded the areas where I put the blobs of panel bond (panel bond only sticks to bare metal), then I put weld through primer around the perimeter because I was going to weld there. I think I covered all my bases to prevent rust.

    16. #76
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,483
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by joeko23 View Post
      Ofcourse I primed it, then I grinded the areas where I put the blobs of panel bond (panel bond only sticks to bare metal), then I put weld through primer around the perimeter because I was going to weld there. I think I covered all my bases to prevent rust.
      Good deal! didn't mean to come off as a butt, it's something that a lot of times gets over looked. But glad you thought a forehand. Your build is really nice, I mean really! nice. Congrats. And panel bond.... some of the best stuff on the planet. I use if for a lot more than just automotive.

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats

    17. #77
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      523
      No offense taken. I just installed a fuel access door in the trunk. At this point Iím done with all mock up. My plan at this point is to send the car to a body shop for seam sealer and undercoating. I also want them to paint the interior and the firewall. While at body shop Iím going to get all chassis components powder coated. Once back from body shop I will reassemble the car and get it running and driving. After that it will go back to body shop for paint.

      At least thatís the plan, hopefully the body shop I plan to use is still working throughout this outbreak. Otherwise Iím at a stand still.

    18. #78
      Join Date
      Jun 2016
      Posts
      41

      Gauges ....

      Hey there my friend... Did you get around to making the gauges work? I have been looking at the 4 and 3/8 gauges because I don't think the 4.5 will fit to well. I am not sold yet on a solid set up.... What did you end up with ? Also securing them to the bezel? Car looks awesome so far! Glad to see you posting again...

    19. #79
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      523
      Hey Nick, I haven’t revisited the gauge situation. But I remember the 4.5” gauges outside diameter fitting inside the pod with the bezels (I think). I was planning on making a sheet metal or maybe plastic backing to house the guages then attach the sheetmetal or plastic to the pod.

    20. #80
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      523
      I haven’t even contacted the body shop to have the car seam sealed, under coated and paint firewall. I doubt they will take my car right now so I have been plugging away at the interior. I found a local wrecking yard that has mostly late model BMWs so I bought a rear seat from an E92 coupe for $150. They also included the rear seatbelts, bolts, seat latches and rear package tray. I mounted the seat latches on top of the package tray along with the seatbelts (just like in the BMW). The seats fit so well and they fold down. I haven’t figured out how to attach/mount the seat bottom yet. I think I’ll let my upholstery guy deal with that.

      Another option for Camaro owners is the seat from a BMW 6 series coupe. It has a hump for the transmission tunnel. Anyway here’s my seats

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