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    Page 11 of 12 FirstFirst ... 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 LastLast
    Results 201 to 220 of 239
    1. #201
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      544
      Don, I tried to prevent air bubbles by filling through the upper radiator hose that way the block gets coolant first and pushes out any air bubbles through radiator as it rises. I will also try your method of raising the front higher than the rear and squeezing the upper and lower hoses.



      What coolant temp should I be shooting for? I have the stock 190 deg thermostat. I read that normal operating temps on ZL1s hover between 200-210. That’s basically what I had.

      Also after I shut the engine down the fans kept spinning and slowly came to a stop, I know that’s normal but they were making a high pitch sound. Is that normal? Or the high pitched sound is because my fans were running in reverse?


    2. #202
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,899
      Country Flag: United States
      With a stock thermostat that temperature is fine imho. It sounds like you filled it correctly so there should not be any air in your system. If it starts running hot then you could try purging it.

      The whining sound is due to the PWM speed control of the fans. It’s nothing to worry about.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    3. #203
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      544
      Thanks Don, can’t wait to rip it around the block. I’m surprised how well it runs on the base tune. I changed supercharger pulley to 2.38” and I have 72lb injectors.

    4. #204
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,082
      Country Flag: United States
      Congrats!! What an amazing feeling. That's amazing that someone that sold something online was actually honest!


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    5. #205
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      544
      Quote Originally Posted by ryeguy2006a View Post
      Congrats!! What an amazing feeling. That's amazing that someone that sold something online was actually honest!
      I know I was super surprised it has such low miles!

    6. #206
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      544
      As promised, I bolted in the seat and took it for a drive up/down the block a few times. All I can say is WOW! The car handles sooo good! Everything is so tight. No rattles, no shakes, suspension is tight but not stiff. I set the rear single adjustable shocks at their middle setting. The front double adjustable I set at 4 clicks rebound and compression which is about 1/4? Anyway the ride is supple almost like my wifeís Range Rover Sport. Iím super happy how the car rides/drives so far. Any blip of the throttle smokes the tires fairly easily!

      I need to raise the rear about 2 inches I think. Seems a little low to me. What do you guys think?

      Also the power steering is VERY intermittent. Even though I turned the wheel back and forth a million times it still probably has air in the system. I ordered a vacuum pressure bleeder for power steering so hopefully that get all the air out.

      After the first start video I posted I decided to scan the ECU for trouble codes and of course there was a code for p0206 code for injector malfunction and code for coil C misfire. Luckily, both seem like easy fixes. The injector plug wire came loose, so I took apart the plug, soldered on the wire and cleared that code. For the misfire, I unplugged the coil for cylinder 3 and noticed the plug had a crack in it. So I ordered a new plug/connector, hopefully that will solve that problem.

      Enjoy the video!

      https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jgJ675Ql0T0

    7. #207
      Join Date
      Jun 2012
      Location
      Golden Valley AZ
      Posts
      77
      Country Flag: United States
      That is so awesome!!! Good to know that Heidts stuff rides nice. OK, now I need to get off here, and go work on mine!!! Oh, wait, it's 103 today, I think I'll stay in the house..hahaha
      John Rodko
      69 RS/SS Camaro.
      Heidts Pro G IRS w/ 3:90 gear, Heidts Pro G front
      6.0L LQ4 to be TT
      6 speed or 4L80E, that is the question..hmmm
      Future plans for full TMI interior

    8. #208
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      544
      Quote Originally Posted by Rodknock View Post
      That is so awesome!!! Good to know that Heidts stuff rides nice. OK, now I need to get off here, and go work on mine!!! Oh, wait, it's 103 today, I think I'll stay in the house..hahaha
      Getíer done John!

    9. #209
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,899
      Country Flag: United States
      I think the stock LSA power steering pump has too much pressure for the rack. You may need to reduce the pressure if you have not already. I ended up with a pump from Turn One that they set up for me. Did you cycle the steering rack without the car running to purge the air?

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    10. #210
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      544
      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      I think the stock LSA power steering pump has too much pressure for the rack. You may need to reduce the pressure if you have not already. I ended up with a pump from Turn One that they set up for me. Did you cycle the steering rack without the car running to purge the air?

      Don
      I bought this pressure reducing fitting from Turn One, chassisworks recommends 1-1.5 gpm. I bought the fitting that’s 1.3gpm. So I’m assuming all should be well.

      Yes, I turned the wheel a million times back and forth with engine off, I also jacked up the front end like you suggested with the radiator. I saw some YouTube videos of tech updates that the new pumps have very small cavities which make it nearly impossible to bleed just by turning the wheel back and forth. Vacuum bleeding several times is what’s recommended so that’s what I’m going to try.

      https://turnonesteering.com/product/...cts-v-zf-pump/

    11. #211
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,082
      Country Flag: United States
      That sounds really nice and tight! So glad to hear you had it out around the block. Aren't LSA motors great!


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    12. #212
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      544
      Quote Originally Posted by ryeguy2006a View Post
      That sounds really nice and tight! So glad to hear you had it out around the block. Aren't LSA motors great!
      They sure are Ryan! I had a 13 ZL-1 one of the best cars Iíve ever owned. It was comfortable, fast, reliable, everything Iím hoping my build will be.

    13. #213
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      544
      What’s the correct orientation of the inner wheel well supports?

      This is drivers side outside:

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      This is passenger side outside:

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      Is the bracket supposed to mount to the outside of the firewall support (facing tire) or the inside firewall support (facing engine)?

    14. #214
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      3,899
      Country Flag: United States
      The two sides are different and it looks like you have them correctly installed. At least that is my recollection.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain

    15. #215
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      544
      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      The two sides are different and it looks like you have them correctly installed. At least that is my recollection.

      Don
      I took a look at the assembly manuel yesterday, and you’re correct as always! So weird that driver side bolts go from exterior to interior. But on the passenger side they go from interior to exterior. I surely thought I was doing something wrong.

    16. #216
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      544
      I’ve been battling with the power steering pump for over a week. It’s been VERY intermittent and seemed like when the fluid heated up, I would lose power. All my research pointed to air in the system. I bought a vacuum bleeder and the same thing would happen. I decided to call chassisworks about the rack because the pictures of their rack on the website looked different than mine so perhaps I wasn’t getting enough assist. After speaking with them they basically said probably still have air in the lines. Then I called turn one who was a tremendous help. I explained what was happening and the tech guy said it sounds like the valve in the pump is sticking so he recommended replacing the pump.

      So today I received the pump, vacuum bled the system and took a spin up and down the block and FINALLY all was well. I was really worried that these mustang style racks would feel over assisted or lacked feeling. I am very happy to report that the steering feels tight, accurate and totally not over assisted. In fact it feels very close to a 3 series BMW I had, where you needed a little bit of muscle to turn the wheel.

      I also installed the Raingear hidden wiper system, very good, high quality kit. Everything bolted into place easily and the wiring seems pretty simple as well.

      My next order of business is installing the AAW harness and getting all the electronics sorted. I also ordered a 12v-5V converter to keep the BMW M4 seats constantly alive as they timeout after about 30 sec. This is the converter:
      12v to 5V DC Converter Car Power Voltage, Waterproof DC 6.3-22V 12V Step Down to DC 5V 3A 15W Voltage Regulator Buck Converter Power Supply Step-Down Module Compatible with Vehicle Car Truck Volt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y2V1F8V...FJHYCS81BR5PPA

      I also ordered a converter for the iPad and phone charger:
      JZK Car Power Converter DC 12V to 5V/ 3A Voltage Converter with Dual USB Adapter Connectors for Phone Charging car Audio Radio etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSCCLCD...5V79EPF9SGJX73

    17. #217
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      544
      Quick update. Iíve been wiring the whole car with the AAW kit, thereís sooo many wires especially with all the modern electronics Iím incorporating. I decided to take a break and work on my gauge pod because my gauges came in.

      So I used the stock Mercedes dash cluster, took all the guts out, made a template, cut it out of metal and hereís the product, itís not final, I still have to paint the metal insert I made to hold the small gauges in the center. Came out fantastic if I do say so myself lol.

      This is how the original cluster looks:
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      This is the insert template I made:
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      Result!
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    18. #218
      Join Date
      May 2012
      Location
      Kansas City, Missouri
      Posts
      462
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks fantastic

    19. #219
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      883
      Country Flag: United States
      very nice, looks to be speedhut freedom gauges. I plan something similar. I hope they turn out as nice as this setup

    20. #220
      Join Date
      Apr 2007
      Location
      New Jersey
      Posts
      452
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice work and looks great.

      Where did you put the heat exchanger pump. Im trying to figure out where to mount it on my mine and cant find a good place. I' running the stock pump and bracket so thats part of the issue.
      Doug L.
      68 RS/SS Conv. DSE/Ridetech and LSA/T56 rebuild in progress
      67 RS Coupe LS2/T56 named "NutKse"

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