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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      547

      69 Camaro RS LSA TR6060 and 0 Fab Skills

      Hey Guys,

      I want to post this build for all the people like myself who have been lurking on the forums just gathering info and never doing anything about it. I want this thread to be an inspiration for people to fulfill their dreams by getting up and building something with THEIR OWN 2 hands Ever since I can remember I have been in love with cars and fixing things. I grew up and still watch how to shows like 2 guys garage, extreme 4x4, horsepower tv, Detroit muscle, and trucks. I'm 35 right now and to date have only done my own oil and brake changes. The rest of my knowledge all came from the how to shows, books, and internet. That's my into



      Onto the car, I bought a 69 Camaro shell from a forum member that supposedly had all fab work done to it already and is ready for body work. I picked a shell instead of buying a complete car mostly because in my opinion buying complete car then tearing it apart is like opening a can of worms. I have heard too many stories of hidden rust, poor body work and patch panels on top of rust. The car came with the following:
      -all rusty panels replaced with new
      -rear wheel tubs and shaved frame rail
      -custom spoiler
      -custom tucked in front bumper
      -custom tucked in and welded in rear bumper
      -shaved drip rails
      -front and rear windshield filled in so you don't need ss perimeter trim
      -shaved door and trunk locks
      -shaved front and rear marker lights
      -complete Chassisworks pro touring front suspensions with 14' rotors, wilwood 6 piston wilwood brakes, rack n pinion, tubular control arms etc.

      My plan is to not get overwhelmed and take it step by step and day by day. I can only dedicate maybe 2 days a week on the car so hopefully updates won't be too slow. I want the car to be as modern and up to date as possible but still retain 69 Camaro body so here's the parts that will go in:
      -15' ZL1 LSA with TR6060
      -Heidts IRS (because it's a bolt in system and again most modern rear setup)
      -power windows
      -power door locks
      -hopefully custom interior or TMI
      -Marquez dash or custom
      -AAW classic update
      -PSI engine harness
      -WPM fuel system
      -ricks restomod tank
      -flaming river steering column
      -vintage air and heat system
      Things I want to do but may not work out:
      -android for guages (WPM system will not work with this as no fuel pressure or sending unit info will be displayed via OBD) I welcome suggestions!
      -IPad integration into the middle of the dash like in Tesla vehicles

      And now onto the pictures, enjoy!
      Attached Images Attached Images        


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,720
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice start...presumably you mean PWM fuel system...

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      547
      First update and problem. The car was mocked up with the radiator support in the wrong hole in the chasssiworks frame. I found this out when I had to install the inner wheel tubs and nothing was lining up. I looked at the Chassisworks instructions and sure enough it wa in the wrong hole. When I went to put the bolt into the correct hole it was cross threading. I tried taping the hole but the weldnut just came off inside the frame. An email to Chassisworks did nothing as I had no proof of purchase and senior tech never heard of has seen this so this is a problem I had to fix myself. I bought a $90 welder from harbor freight and would try my hand at welding. With a grinder I cut a hole in the from to access the nut, then I cut the bolt in half. Bought a new nut and bolt. Welded in the nut in the frame. Welded in the hole in the frame. Will post pics of the finished piece. It came out surprisingly well considering this was my first time doing something like this and welding! I'm sorry I didn't take any pics of the access hole I created I was too nervous so I had to just finsih what I started. Name:  IMG_3622.jpg
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      - - - Updated - - -

      Yes PWM sorry typo

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2015
      Location
      FL
      Posts
      318
      Country Flag: United States
      Sounds awesome! A very nice list of dream goodies and what looks like a great start. Thanks for starting the thread.
      -Mitch
      G8 GXP, White Hot, Auto, bone stock
      68 Firebird, 428 Pontiac, CNC'd KRE Al d-ports, hyd roller, EFI, TKO600, TCI Eng complete chassis, Ridetech, Kore3 C6Z brakes, C5Z 18" with 315 rivals x4, C6zr1 mufflers
      RRR, NASA HPDE https://youtu.be/DPp1l9-FuNE

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,444
      Country Flag: United States
      Good for you! Glad it worked out for you and your back on track.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      dallas, tx
      Posts
      1,690
      Country Flag: United States
      I noticed you mention you wanted to go with some parts bc they are bolt in. Remember to do it right nothing is exactly bolt in. Sit down and give yourself a budget and what you think you will spend. Add 20% to that bc things happen. Remember whatever you do only do it once. Don't change your mind once you start on something or that's when builds get out of control on cost. I was in the same boat as you. Since my car is done I can now do a ls swap, wire a car, build fuel lines, weld, build panels, and a few other things

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      547
      Thanks for the great info. I'm actually going to weld in the Heidts IRS at the frame rail instead of bolting it in mostly because I want it to look like it belongs on there not just a piece I slapped on. I'll post some pics of the IRS brackets that go against the frame rail in a few days. I actually tried doing a plug weld on the bracket to see if it would hold. I grinded down the weld and it looked great and I hit it with a hammer and it didn't budge but I'm really not confident in welding a major structural support bracket so I'm having a local mobile welder come out and weld it in for me professionally. At $300 I think it's cheap insurance that my rear end wont fall out.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      547
      A lot of updates!

      I got the Chassisworks front end all assembled and mocked up including 14" wilwood rotors and 6 piston brakes.Name:  96C0B354-200B-47AA-9663-471C922A3735.jpg
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    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      547
      I also got the Heidts IRS in place and all mocked up as well. The system fits really well, and everything seems to excellent quality and really strong! I also bought rims and tires.Name:  8E1B285B-9A39-447C-8B3C-9552EF67D6AA.jpg
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      I also got the 3 pedals in. I really couldnt justify spending $500 on pedals. But the stock pedals looks horrible, they are not at all aligned with each other and look like someone just threw random pedals together. So, I modified the clutch pedal cutting off the pad and repositioned to be aligned with the brake pedal then welded it back on. Since I'm going with the whole ZL1 them, I bought ZL1 pedal covers from GM and cut the 69 pedal pads so that I could put the ZL1 pedal covers. I think they came out awesome and the only cost was the actual ZL1 pads which were $40 for both (the ZL1 gas pedal I already had when I bought the LSA). Heres some pics of the process:

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      The gas pedal obviously needs some bracket because if you mount it to the firewall it would sit way too far back compared to the brake and clutch, so I decided to fab up my own bracket using 18g steel and my home vise.

      Name:  4BE8EA93-A864-4551-BD3A-ABD1EA0B760F.jpg
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      And the final product with everything mounted

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    10. #10
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      547
      I also started some work on the interior, I'm really trying to get a modern/euro high end look. I scoured the internet looking for dash and center console assemblies, but everything custom doesnt really look high end. So I really loved the look of the Mercedes CLA dash, and the 17 ZL1 center console, put the 2 together and they fit surprisingly really well! I obviously had to trim the CLA dash because it was pretty deep, took out about 2-3 inches. I am also using the stock ZL1 shifter from a 15' ZL1 Camaro and the position is really well. Everything I was reading online indicated this shifter would be way too far back, but with my dash/center console, it's a perfect fit. I had to raise the transmission tunnel 1 inch to accomodate the shifter, I will post pics of that soon, I just did this recently.

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    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      CT
      Posts
      795
      Country Flag: United States
      wow that dash looks right at home. Nice work.
      ________________
      Nick S.
      Gold/Gray 1967 Camaro

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      547
      Here is a overall what the car looks like as of this moment.

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      What's next? I ordered up the driveshaft from the driveshaft shop, that should be coming in early March. I also got the exhaust from Magnaflow with high flow cats, that I will install after the driveshaft is in. After that, everything is getting torn out for powdercoating as I will be done with the whole mock-up stage. While stuff gets powdercoated, I have to redo the firewall, right now it looks like swiss cheese. I ordered up a firewall that's dimpled across the top so that should look cool. I also will need to seamseal and undercoat the underside. Then stuff can start getting reassembled, painted, more assembled. Everything is easier said than done. That's the plan at least.

      I welcome any questions anyone may have about the build.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,444
      Country Flag: United States
      The car looks good, nice work.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Mapleton, IL.
      Posts
      250
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice looking dash.

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Sep 2015
      Location
      SW KS
      Posts
      162
      Country Flag: United States
      Yeah, that dash is legit. Its actually got a nice blend of vintage and modern, with a high class touch. Score!

      Chris

    16. #16
      Join Date
      May 2017
      Location
      Sacramento, California
      Posts
      40
      Inboard brakes!

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,299
      Country Flag: United States
      There's an Android app called Torque that might do what you want. I use a bluetooth adapter from BAFX Products. This plugs into the obd2 socket. It could be possible to hardwire a tablet if you are creative and do enough research to see how obd2 signal interfaces with usb. Several of the handheld tuners have usb interfaces so it can't be too difficult. Be patient and keep plugging along.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      Rochester NY
      Posts
      403
      i am not usually a big fan of putting these 2010+ dashes in a 50 year old car, they never seem to look at home to me but this is really sharp! looks like it belongs, what are your plans for door trim?
      Don
      Grace - 67 Camaro daily driver with upgrades along the way.

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...-Camaro-Driver

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      547
      Here is what I did with the tranny tunnel. Since there is plenty of room for the TR6060 in the tunnel the only thing that didn’t have enough clearance was the shifter assembly. So I made this little tunnel for just the shifter. It’s 1” high. I’m really proud of myself for this one case there’s so many bends and again I just used a home vise so I really had to think ahead of the bends. I also left some room on the passenger side so that I can run the power cable from battery in trunk to engine. I figure the tranny tunnel is the best place to run that power cable. What you guys think is this a good idea? Name:  F70DE64E-5EBA-4CA8-BC5D-9378B4A1C30D.jpg
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      Here is what’s going on behind the dash. This is the stock CLA support beam, fit like a glove with no cutting. Welded in an L bracket that I made then bolted the support beam to it. Also some may notice I had to move the steering column support over about 2 inches to center it in the CLA dash. I also had to lower it slightly as well. For this I just cut off the stock support rod and welded in threaded rod. The change is so minimal that no changes needed to be made in the steering column hole in the firewall. Name:  10159828-D3DB-4615-AD4B-5EA88835A334.jpg
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    20. #20
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Lawrenceburg, TN
      Posts
      4,056
      Country Flag: United States

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