Will this method work? Swapping Pinion Yoke GM 12 bolt

[carguy502]

I need some confirmation of a method of swapping the pinion yoke on my 12 bolt in my Chevelle. I was using a 1310 yoke, now upgraded to 1330 as part of a driveshaft upgrade. There are so many different methods I have read online, but I wanted to tap the expertise on this site.

Needs to knows: GM 12 bolt, rebuilt ~700 miles ago, no issues with break-in/howling/vibration/leaks. I do not want to disassemble the rear completely, but will do if I need to. If it has to come all apart, I'll replace the crush sleeve and measure the bearing preload like I was assembling this for the first time with used bearings.

My proposed process for swapping yokes:

1. Car up, yank axles.
2. Using a beam style Torque wrench, measure the bearing preload in in-lb
3. Pull yoke, clean and grease seal
4. Install new 1330 yoke, hold yoke with tool, tighten to 100 ft-lb
5. Using a beam style Torque wrench, measure the bearing preload and replicate the preload from my initial measurements.

What are your thoughts on this? Please don't be shy, as I want to try to get this done before the weekend is over.

Thank you in advance for all your input!

Don

[gator68428]

Overall looks like a sound strategy. I suggest maybe to monitor the inch-pound reading as you incrementally get it to 100 ft-lbs--in case you get there before 100...

Re-using the crush sleeve should be fine. Shouldn't need to disassemble.
If you do replace the crush sleeve you're going to need a nice big pipe on the end of a big 1/2" drive breaker bar and get the car high enough off the ground.

Get yourself a pipe wrench to hold the flats of the yoke for loosening and tightening. the big one.

[gator68428]

Also, I'm not sure if the 12 bolt is like this--but on my 10 bolt, there is nothing sealing oil from dripping out along the teeth between pinion and yoke (the only oil seal is to the outside of the yoke). I fixed my dripping pinon by adding a little bit of RTV silicon to a portion of the teeth to seal it off.

[rennat_2006]

Your way is the "best" way to do it but the way ive done them and would do it would be just to run the pinion nut down to where it touches and is snug then give it one quick brap with the impact gun.

I know this isnt the ideal way and will probably be cussed by others on here but if you think about it the rear end was setup with new bearings i assume since you say it was rebuilt. New bearings always loosen up some so chances are you are just a tad bit loose now in the preload. Ex.. set to 6 ft lbs when originally setup now you are probably closer to 4ft lbs. Running the nut down then giving it one quick brap to put a little bit more on the crush sleeve probably put you back at 6 ftlbs. Locktite on the nut of course

Again dont get me wrong this isnt the "right" way to do it according to the book but ive setup countless front and rear axles and swapped out leaking yoke seals on hundreds of others doing it this way without any problems