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    Results 21 to 40 of 55
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Wylie, Texas
      Posts
      279
      Country Flag: United States
      I finally got the center console done, well almost done. I still need to reprint and smooth out the phone tray in ASA instead of the PLA plastic that is shown in these pictures.Name:  20180331_184834.jpg
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Size:  210.5 KB There's a NFC sticker under the foam pad in the phone tray which allows the phone to immediately connect to the android radio as soon the phone is put into the tray.



    2. #22
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Very slick mod for the android radio! Beautiful car.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Jun 2015
      Posts
      171
      Country Flag: New Zealand
      hi,what size wheels are you running?regards

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Wylie, Texas
      Posts
      279
      Country Flag: United States
      P335/30ZR18 and P275/35ZR18. I flared out the front fenders about an inch and a half.

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,488
      Country Flag: United States
      Great build. I can appreciate all the work that went into the BCM design and electronics.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      282
      Country Flag: United States
      Very nice build. I built my own console as well so I understand completely the complexity and time you have into design and build. That is a small feat in itself! The rest of the car is just as worthy. Great job.

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      Way cool! I've been designing a BCM network for my car as well (Arduino based) so I really dig what you did there. I've been 3D printing pieces too! LOL

      Thanks for sharing!
      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Wylie, Texas
      Posts
      279
      Country Flag: United States
      Rear seat delete complete. I plan on adding a trunk mounted sub-woofer so I made a couple of sound port holes that have the same honeycomb pattern as the front seats.
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      I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
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      I also printed some latches for the storage lids
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    9. #29
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,567
      Country Flag: United States
      Sweet build! Big difference from when you started. Those 3D printers are amazing.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Wylie, Texas
      Posts
      279
      Country Flag: United States
      3D printers are amazing, I only wish I brought one sooner as I keep finding more ways that I can use it.

      I started focusing on improving the A/C system and decided to add a couple of Spal 6.5" pusher fans in front of the condenser. I printed some brackets to hold the fans in place utilizing the mounting tabs that are designed into the fans. The fans are a perfect fit over the condenser and helped bring my interior vent temp down between 50 and 55 degrees and it has the added benefit of providing more cooling for the supercharger heat exchanger which is just behind the condenser. The fans bolt right to the existing mounting holes on the top and bottom of the condenser. The fans require about 6.5A each so I used two 10A outputs on my BCM. Right now the firmware commands the fans to come on whenever the radiator fans come on and the radiator fans are commanded to come on whenever the A/C trinary switch is active or when the engine temp is above a certain temp. Which now has me wondering what temps I should use to turn the various fans on and off. I can literally control each fan independently and use the inputs from the trinary switch and radiator temp sensor just by changing the firmware. I just need help figuring out what engine temps are normal for this LSA engine and what temp is considered to hot. I guess I will post that question in the cooling forum.
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    11. #31
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Starkville, MS
      Posts
      61
      Loving this ride, fun build...

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Posts
      9
      Country Flag: United States
      First off, Im obsessed with your build. If I didnt have a Chevelle, I would have a 67 Camaro just like that.

      Second, what model Forgelines are those? I need those for my Chevelle.

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Wylie, Texas
      Posts
      279
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks guys. The wheels are Forgeline FS3P, I had the rims done in gloss black to match the bumpers and the centers in a matte black. Although I never did finish the front bumper. I'm still contemplating if it looks better without or with it.

      I got the hood vents installed as well as the larger radiator fans. I wish I would have just made my own fan shroud instead of ordering one from Entropy. They really screwed me over, they suck at making fan shrouds, it took them 3 tries to get me one that would work and in the end I still had to modify it. I had to cut away a strip of aluminum that would have blocked off the bottom row of the radiator fins and then drill out the mounting holes for the fans. I could have made the same mistakes they did and still had it right in less than half the time it took them. So no more Entropy products for me. The good news is that with the hood vents and bigger fans I no longer have overheating issues. I programmed the fans to come on at 208* at 60% then 216* at 80% and finally 225* at 100% pwm. So far the engine temp has only made it up to 215* then it drops back down to around 210* when the fans switch to medium speed.
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      So last Saturday I took if for a nice long cruise on Talimena scenic drive in Oklahoma and made my way back through Arkansas. It's a very pretty area, I'll have to go back when the leaves on the trees start to turn.
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    14. #34
      Join Date
      Jan 2007
      Location
      CT
      Posts
      782
      Country Flag: United States
      Awesome! Glad you got the over heating issue solved.
      ________________
      Nick S.
      Gold/Gray 1967 Camaro

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Posts
      9
      Country Flag: United States
      Love it. I blacked out all the chrome on my Chevelle as well. I like to say "chrome is overrated" when I see a car without chrome.

      Do you work for a performance shop? How did you acquire the skills to build a car like that?

      I build my own stuff, but the electronics and other stuff you are doing is another level.

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Wylie, Texas
      Posts
      279
      Country Flag: United States
      I love Chevelle's too. I want to build one with the front end of the 69 with round taillights of the 72.

      Nope, I worked as an Engineer for a semiconductor company for the past 20 years, so that helps with the electrical aspect of this build. I think I got most of my mechanical skills from growing up on a farm in Iowa. You quickly learn how to fix things on your own on a farm and it gave me a strong work ethic to keep pushing forward to get it done. But this is the first car I have ever built and I'm proud to say I did everything myself except the sandblasting. I'm going to be working on a 68 Firebird next, but I don't plan on going as crazy with that build, at least I say that now.

      Next up for me is adding cruise control. I ordered the DD CRC-2000 today. After Saturday's long drive I realized I need cruise.

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Wylie, Texas
      Posts
      279
      Country Flag: United States
      I had the cruise control installed for a while now, but still haven't taken it on a long trip yet as it seems like it never stops raining. I'm pretty pleased with how it works and the install was pretty easy. I only deviated from DD's instructions a couple of times. The instructions say to use a relay for the brakes if running LED taillights, but I used a MOSFET from the spare parts that I from my BCM project. I didn't want to here a relay clicking every time I applied the brakes. I also added a diode on the clutch switch to isolate my BCM from the DD cruise module.

      I also added a clutch and neutral safety switch. Actually I've had the clutch safety switch for a while but forgot to document it. As far as I know there was never a clutch switch for a 67 or 68 Camaro. I've seen people adapt the 69 switch to work on the 67 or 68 but I choose to use a simple momentary switch that is situated the same way the brake switch works. I was shopping at Lowes one day and ran across this switch. It works perfectly after I fabricated a bracket to hold it.
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      The neutral switch was a little more difficult to do. I wanted a mechanical switch that doesn't draw any power when the car is off and I wanted it hidden. So after a couple of design changes I settled on this.
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      The design is pretty straight forward, when ever the stick is in the neutral position both springs will contact the metal collar that is positioned around the stick. This is like a switch in the ON position. When the stick is in gear only one spring is contacting the collar and the switch is OFF. One spring is tied to ground and the other spring is connected to the same BCM input as the clutch switch. Since each switch goes to ground I am able to use only one BCM input and the switches are effectively logically OR'ed together. The BCM firmware only allows the engine to start if this input is at ground AND the key is in the start position which means you either have to have the car in neutral or have your foot on the clutch in order to start the engine. The shifter boot installs over the switch.

    18. #38
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Very clever!!!

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Posts
      1,853
      Nice project!... what door panels are those TMI? if yes what ones?
      From a place you will not see comes a sound you will not hear....

      67 Camaro In progress

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...-Tap-67-camaro

    20. #40
      Join Date
      Nov 2011
      Location
      Wylie, Texas
      Posts
      279
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by XLexusTech View Post
      Nice project!... what door panels are those TMI? if yes what ones?
      Yes, they are TMI Sport XR panels.

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