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  1. #1
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    Problems bleeding clutch t56 magnum

    I'm trying to bleed the hydraulics on my t56 magnum and I'm running into some issues. I started by filling the system using a Phoenix systems bleeder and pushing it up through the slave to the reservoir. I opened the bleeder, pumped the pedal one time, close the bleeder and let the pedal return. I did this about 6 times never letting the reservoir get completely empty. With the bleeder closed you cannot move the pedal, its hard as a rock. The pedal will only move with the bleeder open.
    Is it possible I have a bad master? The only thing I did to the slave was install the remote bleeder line. Master and slave are both factory F body style.


    Can anyone point me in the direction of how I should go about bleeding this system?

    Big dreams, small pockets....

    Chris--
    '72 Cutlass S LS2/T56 Magnum
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by csouth View Post
    I'm trying to bleed the hydraulics on my t56 magnum and I'm running into some issues. I started by filling the system using a Phoenix systems bleeder and pushing it up through the slave to the reservoir. I opened the bleeder, pumped the pedal one time, close the bleeder and let the pedal return. I did this about 6 times never letting the reservoir get completely empty. With the bleeder closed you cannot move the pedal, its hard as a rock. The pedal will only move with the bleeder open.
    Is it possible I have a bad master? The only thing I did to the slave was install the remote bleeder line. Master and slave are both factory F body style.


    Can anyone point me in the direction of how I should go about bleeding this system?
    Chris,

    What kind of fitting is on the remote bleeder line? Are you getting fluid out of the bleeder when you press the clutch?

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
    Chris,

    What kind of fitting is on the remote bleeder line? Are you getting fluid out of the bleeder when you press the clutch?

    Andrew
    I do get fluid out of the line when I press the pedal. There is a bleeder fitting on the bleeder line, it was all a kit I ordered from Speedway automotive. Looks like this
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Big dreams, small pockets....

    Chris--
    '72 Cutlass S LS2/T56 Magnum
    Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, SC&C, ATS, Street Rod Designs, Speedhut, KORE3, Ridetech

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by csouth View Post
    I do get fluid out of the line when I press the pedal. There is a bleeder fitting on the bleeder line, it was all a kit I ordered from Speedway automotive. Looks like this
    I have the same bleeder...however, I did not like the way that bleeder line mated with the slave. Did you use the crush washer that Speedway sent with it?

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
    I have the same bleeder...however, I did not like the way that bleeder line mated with the slave. Did you use the crush washer that Speedway sent with it?

    Andrew
    Its been assembled for quite some time, but I'm pretty sure I used whatever came with the kit. weird thing is I can push fluid up to the reservoir and pumping the pedal with the bleeder open empties the reservoir. I just cant move the pedal with the bleeder closed.
    Big dreams, small pockets....

    Chris--
    '72 Cutlass S LS2/T56 Magnum
    Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, SC&C, ATS, Street Rod Designs, Speedhut, KORE3, Ridetech

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  6. #6
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    Hmmmm....maybe you got a bad slave? What kind of clutch (not that it should matter much...)?

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
    Instagram @projectgattago

    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
    Hmmmm....maybe you got a bad slave? What kind of clutch (not that it should matter much...)?

    Andrew
    Its LS7 clutch , flywheel and PP. I hate to pull this trans, but its looking like I will have to in order to check the slave.
    Big dreams, small pockets....

    Chris--
    '72 Cutlass S LS2/T56 Magnum
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  8. #8
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    Do you know if there is come kind of locking mechanism on the slave I could have forgotten to remove?
    Big dreams, small pockets....

    Chris--
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  9. #9
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    Pedal moves freely with the bleeder open.

    Fluid passes from reservoir to the master to the slave and out the bleeder line.

    When the bleeder is closed, the system is sealed, pedal doesn't move.

    You gotta pull the trans, your slave is topped out or broken. Did you measure all of your clearances before assembly? Stock F Body bellhousing? It should all work, but I always measure.
    Donny

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift View Post
    Pedal moves freely with the bleeder open.

    Fluid passes from reservoir to the master to the slave and out the bleeder line.

    When the bleeder is closed, the system is sealed, pedal doesn't move.

    You gotta pull the trans, your slave is topped out or broken. Did you measure all of your clearances before assembly? Stock F Body bellhousing? It should all work, but I always measure.
    Its all stock GM stuff, Fbody bellhousing, LS1 slave and master, LS7 clutch, Fw, PP.
    No I didn't not measure, because I was told the OEM slave is always in contact with the clutch fingers due to its design. I'm going to start pulling the trans tonight. I'll pull the slave to see if I can see any movement on it at all to verify it even works.
    Big dreams, small pockets....

    Chris--
    '72 Cutlass S LS2/T56 Magnum
    Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, SC&C, ATS, Street Rod Designs, Speedhut, KORE3, Ridetech

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  11. #11
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    i have the same setup and i didnt need to measure anything. Post a pic on the pedal where you drilled the hole for the pedal. When i first drilled my pedal it took alot of effort to push the pedal down. I moved it up a 1/4" and it was night and day. If yours is too low you might have a very hard pedal and when the bleeder is open you cant tell bc you have no resistance.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by icemanrd19 View Post
    i have the same setup and i didnt need to measure anything. Post a pic on the pedal where you drilled the hole for the pedal. When i first drilled my pedal it took alot of effort to push the pedal down. I moved it up a 1/4" and it was night and day. If yours is too low you might have a very hard pedal and when the bleeder is open you cant tell bc you have no resistance.
    I didn't drill a hole for my pedal, I attached to the point that was on the pedal I purchased in my kit from McCleod.
    Big dreams, small pockets....

    Chris--
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  13. #13
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    Made some progress without dropping the trans. The only thing that I had yet to try was vacuum bleeding the master. I removed the reservoir and hooked my bleeder up for vacuum, bubbles started to flow. Big bubbles. Did this until no bubbles were present. When I pressed the pedal with the bleeder closed, I got movement. I started some traditional bleeding, opening the bleeder and pressing the pedal, then closing the bleeder before letting the pedal up. Now that I know its a bleeding issue and not mechanical I'll do more when I get some assistance.

    Thanks for all the feedback...
    Big dreams, small pockets....

    Chris--
    '72 Cutlass S LS2/T56 Magnum
    Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, SC&C, ATS, Street Rod Designs, Speedhut, KORE3, Ridetech

    Project Motor City Madness

  14. #14
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    This doesn't add up but I am hoping you find a simple solution.
    Donny

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  15. #15
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    A Phoenix reverse bleeder works great for this.

    Don
    1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
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  16. #16
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    Chris,

    Glad you're making positive progress.

    Andrew
    1970 GTO Version 2.0
    1967 Cougar build
    GM High-Tech Performance feature
    My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
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    "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift View Post
    This doesn't add up but I am hoping you find a simple solution.
    All I can say is I can now press the pedal down where it would not budge before and that's the only thing I hadn't done. There was clearly air there. As soon as I gently hit vacuum, they started to flow.

    Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
    A Phoenix reverse bleeder works great for this.

    Don
    Yeah, I would have never gotten those bubbles out without it.

    Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
    Chris,

    Glad you're making positive progress.

    Andrew
    Yes.... I'll should still be on track to have this car done by month end.
    Big dreams, small pockets....

    Chris--
    '72 Cutlass S LS2/T56 Magnum
    Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, SC&C, ATS, Street Rod Designs, Speedhut, KORE3, Ridetech

    Project Motor City Madness

  18. #18
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    Hey, I know this is an old post but did everything worked out normal for you after you bled the system? I am having very stiff pedal problem. I am able to press my clutch pedal down all the way but its very stiff. I starting to think my master line is disconnected to the slave. But yeah, I cant see my very stiff pedal being normal. I cannot imaging driving in traffic like this.