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    Results 1 to 18 of 18
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
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      Detroit
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      Problems bleeding clutch t56 magnum

      I'm trying to bleed the hydraulics on my t56 magnum and I'm running into some issues. I started by filling the system using a Phoenix systems bleeder and pushing it up through the slave to the reservoir. I opened the bleeder, pumped the pedal one time, close the bleeder and let the pedal return. I did this about 6 times never letting the reservoir get completely empty. With the bleeder closed you cannot move the pedal, its hard as a rock. The pedal will only move with the bleeder open.
      Is it possible I have a bad master? The only thing I did to the slave was install the remote bleeder line. Master and slave are both factory F body style.


      Can anyone point me in the direction of how I should go about bleeding this system?
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
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      Quote Originally Posted by csouth View Post
      I'm trying to bleed the hydraulics on my t56 magnum and I'm running into some issues. I started by filling the system using a Phoenix systems bleeder and pushing it up through the slave to the reservoir. I opened the bleeder, pumped the pedal one time, close the bleeder and let the pedal return. I did this about 6 times never letting the reservoir get completely empty. With the bleeder closed you cannot move the pedal, its hard as a rock. The pedal will only move with the bleeder open.
      Is it possible I have a bad master? The only thing I did to the slave was install the remote bleeder line. Master and slave are both factory F body style.


      Can anyone point me in the direction of how I should go about bleeding this system?
      Chris,

      What kind of fitting is on the remote bleeder line? Are you getting fluid out of the bleeder when you press the clutch?

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
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      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    3. #3
      Join Date
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      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Chris,

      What kind of fitting is on the remote bleeder line? Are you getting fluid out of the bleeder when you press the clutch?

      Andrew
      I do get fluid out of the line when I press the pedal. There is a bleeder fitting on the bleeder line, it was all a kit I ordered from Speedway automotive. Looks like this
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    4. #4
      Join Date
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      Quote Originally Posted by csouth View Post
      I do get fluid out of the line when I press the pedal. There is a bleeder fitting on the bleeder line, it was all a kit I ordered from Speedway automotive. Looks like this
      I have the same bleeder...however, I did not like the way that bleeder line mated with the slave. Did you use the crush washer that Speedway sent with it?

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    5. #5
      Join Date
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      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      I have the same bleeder...however, I did not like the way that bleeder line mated with the slave. Did you use the crush washer that Speedway sent with it?

      Andrew
      Its been assembled for quite some time, but I'm pretty sure I used whatever came with the kit. weird thing is I can push fluid up to the reservoir and pumping the pedal with the bleeder open empties the reservoir. I just cant move the pedal with the bleeder closed.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
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      Hmmmm....maybe you got a bad slave? What kind of clutch (not that it should matter much...)?

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    7. #7
      Join Date
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      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Hmmmm....maybe you got a bad slave? What kind of clutch (not that it should matter much...)?

      Andrew
      Its LS7 clutch , flywheel and PP. I hate to pull this trans, but its looking like I will have to in order to check the slave.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    8. #8
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      Do you know if there is come kind of locking mechanism on the slave I could have forgotten to remove?
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
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      Beach Park IL
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      Pedal moves freely with the bleeder open.

      Fluid passes from reservoir to the master to the slave and out the bleeder line.

      When the bleeder is closed, the system is sealed, pedal doesn't move.

      You gotta pull the trans, your slave is topped out or broken. Did you measure all of your clearances before assembly? Stock F Body bellhousing? It should all work, but I always measure.
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    10. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift View Post
      Pedal moves freely with the bleeder open.

      Fluid passes from reservoir to the master to the slave and out the bleeder line.



      When the bleeder is closed, the system is sealed, pedal doesn't move.

      You gotta pull the trans, your slave is topped out or broken. Did you measure all of your clearances before assembly? Stock F Body bellhousing? It should all work, but I always measure.
      Its all stock GM stuff, Fbody bellhousing, LS1 slave and master, LS7 clutch, Fw, PP.
      No I didn't not measure, because I was told the OEM slave is always in contact with the clutch fingers due to its design. I'm going to start pulling the trans tonight. I'll pull the slave to see if I can see any movement on it at all to verify it even works.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness


    11. #11
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
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      dallas, tx
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      i have the same setup and i didnt need to measure anything. Post a pic on the pedal where you drilled the hole for the pedal. When i first drilled my pedal it took alot of effort to push the pedal down. I moved it up a 1/4" and it was night and day. If yours is too low you might have a very hard pedal and when the bleeder is open you cant tell bc you have no resistance.

    12. #12
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      Quote Originally Posted by icemanrd19 View Post
      i have the same setup and i didnt need to measure anything. Post a pic on the pedal where you drilled the hole for the pedal. When i first drilled my pedal it took alot of effort to push the pedal down. I moved it up a 1/4" and it was night and day. If yours is too low you might have a very hard pedal and when the bleeder is open you cant tell bc you have no resistance.
      I didn't drill a hole for my pedal, I attached to the point that was on the pedal I purchased in my kit from McCleod.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    13. #13
      Join Date
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      Made some progress without dropping the trans. The only thing that I had yet to try was vacuum bleeding the master. I removed the reservoir and hooked my bleeder up for vacuum, bubbles started to flow. Big bubbles. Did this until no bubbles were present. When I pressed the pedal with the bleeder closed, I got movement. I started some traditional bleeding, opening the bleeder and pressing the pedal, then closing the bleeder before letting the pedal up. Now that I know its a bleeding issue and not mechanical I'll do more when I get some assistance.

      Thanks for all the feedback...
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
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      This doesn't add up but I am hoping you find a simple solution.
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
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      Mountain Springs, Texas
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      A Phoenix reverse bleeder works great for this.

      Don
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
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      The City of Fountains
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      Chris,

      Glad you're making positive progress.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
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      Quote Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift View Post
      This doesn't add up but I am hoping you find a simple solution.
      All I can say is I can now press the pedal down where it would not budge before and that's the only thing I hadn't done. There was clearly air there. As soon as I gently hit vacuum, they started to flow.

      Quote Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
      A Phoenix reverse bleeder works great for this.

      Don
      Yeah, I would have never gotten those bubbles out without it.

      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Chris,

      Glad you're making positive progress.

      Andrew
      Yes.... I'll should still be on track to have this car done by month end.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Apr 2018
      Location
      Oakland
      Posts
      68
      Hey, I know this is an old post but did everything worked out normal for you after you bled the system? I am having very stiff pedal problem. I am able to press my clutch pedal down all the way but its very stiff. I starting to think my master line is disconnected to the slave. But yeah, I cant see my very stiff pedal being normal. I cannot imaging driving in traffic like this.





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