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    Results 1 to 6 of 6
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      158
      Country Flag: United States

      Radiator/Cooling research discussion

      I wanted to open a discussion on cooling and possibly get some input as well. I have a habit of researching things to death before I spend any money and so I come to the point where I need to decide on a radiator for my build so I can budget for it. I also like to put all of my thoughts in a post so I can get it out of my head and down where I can read it and maybe let others fill me in on similar issues they’ve had to address.

      Here are my specifics: 1968 Mustang with an aluminum head 408 Windsor with A/C. I live in Phoenix…that in itself presents a bit of a challenge. The primary purpose of the car is reliable road trips and possibly the occasional autocross. There is a lot of info out there to absorb on this. But from what I’ve gathered so far is that, in all likelihood, a good quality radiator setup for my build is going to run in the $1k-$1500 range.

      So what experience do you guys have with this? What works, what would you do differently? What is your trusted ‘go-to’ brand and why? I’d love to hear your thoughts on this. I know that I’ve got to do it right, once. And it won’t be an inexpensive decision but I want to be sure I’m spending wisely.

      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2015
      Location
      FL
      Posts
      318
      Country Flag: United States
      I had cooling issues with my setup with the stock 4-core radiator, and heavy duty fan clutch in the FL heat. This was when I had self ported cast iron heads and a moderately radical cam in my 428 Pontiac engine in my 68 Firebird. Going to the Griffin aluminum radiator specific for 1st gen F-bodys (direct bolt in) for $550 (about ten years ago), all my cooling problems were solved. No electric fans. Even went to very weak fan clutch.

      Now I have CNC ported Al heads, roller cam and I do track days with 20 min road course sessions at a time and the car barely ever gets over 200 degF. Typically do track days NOT in the summer when the daytime temps are below 90 (for driver comfort not b/c of engine temp limitations).

      But as far as street driving goes (or AutoX), there is nothing I can do to get the water temp above the thermostat temp, even in the summer 90+ deg heat (sometimes at the end of an AutoX the temp will go above the thermostat temp, and then quickly come back down).
      -Mitch
      G8 GXP, White Hot, Auto, bone stock
      68 Firebird, 428 Pontiac, CNC'd KRE Al d-ports, hyd roller, EFI, TKO600, TCI Eng complete chassis, Ridetech, Kore3 C6Z brakes, C5Z 18" with 315 rivals x4, C6zr1 mufflers
      RRR, NASA HPDE https://youtu.be/DPp1l9-FuNE

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Fredericksburg, VA.
      Posts
      3,155
      Country Flag: United States
      I have a BeCool two row single pass direct fit radiator in my car with a Flex-a-lite 3300cfm Black Magic electric fan. Even on a 100+deg day in stop and go traffic the temp never goes over 200deg. That said, what brand you go with is not critical so long as you stay with a quality American made radiator with two row core and single pass flow. There are cheap Chinese made radiators for sale on ebay that look good in pictures but just keep in mind that you get what you pay for and a cheap radiator will not perform or last like a quality unit will. Whatever company you decide on, spend some with that company's tech rep and make sure you get a radiator that is correctly sized for your specific application.

      Here is a good article from Hot Rod Magazine about how to properly design a cooling system.
      http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-...ooling-system/
      Steve Hayes
      "Dust Off"
      68 Camaro

      Given sufficient initial acceleration, even pigs can fly!

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      Phoenix
      Posts
      158
      Country Flag: United States
      Mitch,
      Thanks for the info. I have looked at Griffin and they’re on the short list. I appreciate the real driving conditions info.

      Steve,
      Thanks for your input as well. I’ve already decided to avoid the cheap units simply because the quality is questionable. Even the cheap units with ‘lifetime warranty’. I prefer paying for a quality piece and being done with it. Cry now or cry later, right? I’ve spoken to 3 or so of the better known companies so far. One was very helpful and even started warning me about other items that I needed to keep in mind when putting the build together. Another company is supposed to have good quality units but the rep seemed hesitant to really go all out and say that I would be able to keep my setup cooled in phoenix temps. Not really a confidence builder.
      And the article was part of my research bookmarks. Lots of good info in there.
      Kris - Building the poor man's '68 Mustang.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      north central Iowa
      Posts
      503
      Country Flag: United States
      since your in phoenix id check out Ron Davis as they are in Glendale. Ive used a couple of their universal radiators in a pair of 70 chevy impalas and they have worked great so far. they are also site sponsors.
      72 Nova SS, on the back burner for now.


      current cruiser: "The green machine"

      '70 Impala 4drht, 26K original miles, 2" drop springs and large swaybars, drives pretty good for a land yahct in the middle of an ls1 swap, but thinking about changing directions to a duramax diesel swap.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      239
      Griffin is great, Ron Davis is too, Check out Speedway Motors, they are selling DeWitts aluminum radiators for specific models and you can get them in black.
      C&R is also good.





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