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    Results 61 to 80 of 143

    Thread: Mustang GT250

    1. #61
      Join Date
      May 2014
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      72
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Bossed View Post
      Looking great. Doing all the prep to actual spraying the paint seems to take forever. I can appreciate all the time and effort to get to this point. Love the color too.

      Thank you sir.



    2. #62
      Join Date
      Dec 2014
      Posts
      188
      Country Flag: Australia
      Love you what you are doing here, very nice! I too have an I6 Mustang in a '66. But it is just plain Jane original.
      I opened this expecting to see you installing a Barra 4.0 I6 with a turbo as you most often see here. Respect though for keeping it old school!

    3. #63
      Join Date
      May 2014
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      72
      Country Flag: United States
      Sealer and base are down. Clear tomorrow.
      Attached Images Attached Images    

    4. #64
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      That looks great! What are you using for the framework of that booth? It looks like PVC. I'm thinking of doing something like that in my garage shortly.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    5. #65
      Join Date
      May 2014
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      72
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by GT200 View Post
      Sealer and base are down. Clear tomorrow.
      Yeah PVC and plastic. I still had problems with trash in paint. I tried positive pressure and negative pressure in the booth. Both where about the same. I also had a a lot of spray build up in booth. I tried mulit fans pushing and pulling with nothing seeming to work.

    6. #66
      Join Date
      May 2014
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      72
      Country Flag: United States
      I blocked my first two coats of base and sprayed two more. I waited overnight and sprayed four coats of clear. We got a couple of runs and the overspray in the booth settled down on the deck lid. Up next wet sand and buff. Slowly getting there and a big learning experience for me. The white area still needs to be sealed and then sprayed with a satin black.
      Attached Images Attached Images        

    7. #67
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,640
      Country Flag: United States
      You're gettin' there. Overcoming the obstacles is a large part of this for all who don't have access to the best equipment. I painted part of my 51 three times because of insects.

    8. #68
      Join Date
      Dec 2011
      Posts
      135
      Country Flag: United States
      I feel your pain in dealing with trash in the finish. It's amazing all the stuff floating around just looking for a place to land. Can't wait to see the finished product, great job.

    9. #69
      Join Date
      Sep 2015
      Location
      SW KS
      Posts
      162
      Country Flag: United States
      Its looking great! Love the detail that's gone in to this.

      Chris

    10. #70
      Join Date
      May 2014
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      72
      Country Flag: United States
      Well I wet sanded the whole car with 600 to remove trash and to spray 3 or 4 more coats of clear. Hopefully reclear in the next day or two. I did start to get the other parts wet sanded for buffing. I did 1500, 2000, 3000 and 5000. They look really good and I am very happy with the results. I have pick of before wet sanding and after on the rear valance. I did use guide coat after the 1500 to help me know when to stop with the 2000.
      Attached Images Attached Images      

    11. #71
      Join Date
      May 2014
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      72
      Country Flag: United States
      Sprayed three more coats of clear over wet sanded clear. Know to get the car sprayed with three more coats of clear also.
      Attached Images Attached Images    

    12. #72
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,640
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking better.

    13. #73
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Wow, that looks great! Keep this up and you will have a finished car, haha.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    14. #74
      Join Date
      Dec 2011
      Posts
      135
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks awesome

    15. #75
      Join Date
      May 2007
      Posts
      117
      Nice project!

      Tim
      '65 2+2
      347 - RetroTek EFI - 471 fwhp
      JBA shorty's, 2.5" tubes, Dr Gas X-pipe
      T-5 world class 5 speed, w/ .80 OD
      9" with 3.70's & T-loc
      4 wheel disc brakes
      17" Torq-Thrust D's, 225/45 & 245/45
      TCP/Global West suspension
      OpenTracker roller spring perches
      subframe connectors, Traction Masters, Panhard bar
      TCP manual rack & pinion
      power windows & power door locks w/ keyless entry

    16. #76
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      Looks fantastic. I hope my planned DIY paint for my Mustang project comes out as good as yours is.
      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.

    17. #77
      Join Date
      May 2014
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      72
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by digitalsolo View Post
      Looks fantastic. I hope my planned DIY paint for my Mustang project comes out as good as yours is.
      I could write a book on what did not work best. I did get more trash then I like in my clear but 90% is wet sanding out. I wish I went with a high end single stage paint instead of base clear. I would have sprayed two coats then wet sand. Spray two more and be done with it. I did two rounds of base with two coats each. I did wet sand between the rounds of base. Then three coats clear wet sand and three more. No matter which way I tried fan setup I got more trash then I wanted in paint. PLus could not get the over spray to evacuate fast enough.

      I think I would have been better to do all body work and blocking my self then took it somewhere to seal, base and clear. But I did save a ton of money this way. My buddy had his GTO professionally paint about two years ago. He spent 12 or 14 thousands on it. It is not perfect deep scratches, pinholes and some trash. I think mine will be better just because I sanded between rounds.

    18. #78
      Join Date
      Sep 2013
      Location
      sw Kansas
      Posts
      1,640
      Country Flag: United States
      I appreciate what you just posted but I want to add something to this. Every single stage I have used has very limited uv protection. If they are exposed to sunlight on a regular basis, they will fade. You will hear lots of people say I'm FOS but because you did it the best in the beginning, you don't have to find out if I know my stuff or I'm a loon. You did good. remember everything you learned and keep going. For most, every build is better than the one before.

    19. #79
      Join Date
      Oct 2014
      Posts
      266
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by GT200 View Post
      I think I would have been better to do all body work and blocking my self then took it somewhere to seal, base and clear. But I did save a ton of money this way. My buddy had his GTO professionally paint about two years ago. He spent 12 or 14 thousands on it. It is not perfect deep scratches, pinholes and some trash. I think mine will be better just because I sanded between rounds.
      I've tried to find somewhere local to just do the spraying on my car. No one is interested. I found one resto shop that offered to spray it for 5k + materials. That's nuts considering it's already been metal worked, body worked, filler primed, blocked and sealed... it literally needs a coat of urethane primer, a final blocking and color/clear. 2000-2500 + labor, sure, but at over 6000 dollars with materials, I figure I can screw up a lot of times and not come anywhere near the cost... I really wish I could just rent a booth, but again, no one is interested in letting me do so.

      Hence the reason I really appreciate threads like this where people share the good/bad and things they've learned for DIY work like this.
      1988 Mazda RX7 - Forged LS/T56, 76mm turbo, ProEFI, Ford 8.8 - Sold
      1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, Haltech, big brakes, updated suspension.
      2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Full bolt-ons
      2016 BMW 428iX GranSport - Stock...ish.

    20. #80
      Join Date
      Nov 2016
      Location
      Sulphur, La
      Posts
      598
      The problem for the shops is that everyone will ask who painted the car. If the work you did is sub-par then it will reflect on them.

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