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    Thread: Leaking TKO 600

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Independence MO
      Posts
      21
      Country Flag: United States

      Leaking TKO 600

      I just completed my LS conversion from 548 pump gas motor to LS. Kept the TKO 600, it is about 10 years old with 2K miles. It leaks out of the front, not coming from inside the bellhousing. The old big block leaked a little so I do not know if was leaking before. Anyone else have or hear of this issue, and most importantly what is the fix. Thanks



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Boonville, Missouri
      Posts
      924
      How much fluid do you have in the transmission. If you used all three quarts as the direction say from some of the vendors, this is the cause. It's actually 2 3/4 quarts and the issue goes away. Also make sure you have the vent installed on top of the unit.
      Tony Edler
      Illumin8s
      See Illumin8s at www.illumin8s.com

      '73 Dodge Challenger

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      Lawrenceville, IL
      Posts
      348
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by eupp View Post
      I just completed my LS conversion from 548 pump gas motor to LS. Kept the TKO 600, it is about 10 years old with 2K miles. It leaks out of the front, not coming from inside the bellhousing. The old big block leaked a little so I do not know if was leaking before. Anyone else have or hear of this issue, and most importantly what is the fix. Thanks
      If it isn't a fluid level problem, then it is likely the input shaft bearing retainer or the counter shaft end cap(the round disc to the bottom left). If it is the bearing retainer you can easily unbolt it, clean up the sealing surfaces and reseal. If it is the end cap you will want to remove the bearing retainer and carefully pry the end cap off. This holds the bearing race for the counter shaft and is sealed with an O-ring. We have seen a few instances where the O-ring was damaged during installation and has caused a leak. If we have to remove that cap we always replace the O-ring and add a Silicone RTV sealant to re-seal. Hope this helps get you taken care of.
      visit us on the web at www.bowlertransmissions.com

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Independence MO
      Posts
      21
      Country Flag: United States
      Isn't the correct fluid level bottom of the fill plug hole?

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      Lawrenceville, IL
      Posts
      348
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by eupp View Post
      Isn't the correct fluid level bottom of the fill plug hole?
      I know there are some differing opinions on this, but straight out of the Tremec product guide for the TKO transmissions, Tremec states 3 quarts of fluid, which should put you just below the fill plug.
      visit us on the web at www.bowlertransmissions.com

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Independence MO
      Posts
      21
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Craig, that's where I am at. ugh!

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
      Posts
      2,848
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Craig@Bowler View Post
      If it is the end cap you will want to remove the bearing retainer and carefully pry the end cap off. This holds the bearing race for the counter shaft and is sealed with an O-ring. We have seen a few instances where the O-ring was damaged during installation and has caused a leak. If we have to remove that cap we always replace the O-ring and add a Silicone RTV sealant to re-seal. Hope this helps get you taken care of.
      Craig, it sure looks like the countershaft bearing end cap is loaded into the case from the inside. I have a car here that is leaking in that very spot and would love to _not_ have to disassemble this transmission.
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      Lawrenceville, IL
      Posts
      348
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift View Post
      Craig, it sure looks like the countershaft bearing end cap is loaded into the case from the inside. I have a car here that is leaking in that very spot and would love to _not_ have to disassemble this transmission.
      Donny,
      I know it looks that way, but it will come out the front. There's 2 ways we've done it here without a full disassemble. 1. pull the bearing retainer off, pull the input shaft , tip the transmission on end and the pressure of the counter shaft will push it out enough to be able to get a tool on there to remove it. 2. Remove the tailhousing and bearing retainer and tap the end of the counter shaft with a soft hammer to get it to push out.

      If you have any questions, give me a call. thanks
      visit us on the web at www.bowlertransmissions.com

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
      Posts
      2,848
      Country Flag: United States
      Craig, I'm not saying your wrong but I don't think this is either. At 31:20 he shows the cap and then loads it from the inside of the case. I don't know how old this trans is, perhaps there was a change?



      The trans is easy to get out of this car so I shook the dice at the customers request and put some Loctite 290 around that cap and let it wick in a few times.
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      Lawrenceville, IL
      Posts
      348
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift View Post
      Craig, I'm not saying your wrong but I don't think this is either. At 31:20 he shows the cap and then loads it from the inside of the case. I don't know how old this trans is, perhaps there was a change?



      The trans is easy to get out of this car so I shook the dice at the customers request and put some Loctite 290 around that cap and let it wick in a few times.
      Donny,
      There had to be a change over at some point, not sure exactly when, but all the new TKO's we get in are not like that. Those end caps are straight with an o-ring seal, they no longer have that "lip" on the end.
      visit us on the web at www.bowlertransmissions.com

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Mar 2013
      Location
      Napier, New Zealand
      Posts
      220
      Country Flag: New Zealand
      Hey Craig

      What fluid would you recommend for tko600, having problems shifting when it gets up to temp.
      Cheers
      Damien
      Napier, New Zealand
      Project Page: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?99096-Project-Camaro-68-P-T-Muscle
      Next Project: 1956 Chevy Truck, Full C3 Suspension, Nascar Inspired

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      Lawrenceville, IL
      Posts
      348
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Tweak View Post
      Hey Craig

      What fluid would you recommend for tko600, having problems shifting when it gets up to temp.
      Cheers
      Damien, We recommend using a good quality Synchromesh fluid like Royal Purple's Synchromax. There are many other good options from Redline, Amsoil, Penzoil, GM , and Tremec that you can use as well.
      visit us on the web at www.bowlertransmissions.com





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