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    Results 1 to 12 of 12
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Jefferson WI
      Posts
      61
      Country Flag: Norway

      Chassis Stiffening

      Im in the process of building a 75 monte carlo into a autox/track day/ more or less a streetable race car. I built my own chassis stiffening kit for the center section and rear stub but what can I do for the front stub? I was planning on building a brace that ties the cross member to the frame horns but is there more I can do? I was going go as far as building bay bars similar to that of a circle track car but I dont have a full roll cage in the car. How far is too far and do you guys think what I have done is enough? Thanks in advance.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2004
      Location
      Mid-Michigan
      Posts
      2,764
      Country Flag: United States
      Adding bars out in front of the cross member will do nothing. Trying to stop twist, without a good cage, is not going to happen. All you are doing is adding weight. Lateral stiffness can be improved with a good K-member design but, to improve torsional stiffness, you need to have a good cage that is triangulated down to the chassis and ties the front and rear suspensions together.
      Mark
      Mark:
      "Bad Ast" Astro Van. Just because I did it... Doesn't mean it's possible...
      This my Bad Ast thread...
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...roject-Faze-II
      This is my Fotki album...
      http://astroracer.fotki.com/

    3. #3
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,145
      Country Flag: Canada
      Look at some of the frame brace kits that hpi,hellwig, speedtech etc have developed for 68-72 a body's. Being as your cars frame design is quite similar this would be something that you might want to copy for your own design
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Jefferson WI
      Posts
      61
      Country Flag: Norway
      Thats what i pretty much did for the center and rear stub. I built a coilover setup for the rearend so the rear stub is taken care of I was more concerned for the stub moving up and down as more than torsional. Thank you guys for all the tips! keep em coming! I want to be able to keep up with corvettes by the time Im done with with this!

    5. #5
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,145
      Country Flag: Canada
      If you're corvette hunting .....next step cage
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Jefferson WI
      Posts
      61
      Country Flag: Norway
      Quote Originally Posted by raustinss View Post
      If you're corvette hunting .....next step cage
      Yeah I was afraid of that! Maybe next year then.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2011
      Location
      Ca
      Posts
      336
      Country Flag: United States
      on my74 olds the biggest difference was made by the cage, i wouldn't build a car setup for road or auto X races without a cage.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Atlanta,Ga.
      Posts
      166
      I went with the HPI kit and it turned out great.
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      I am SUCH a rookie to Pro-Touring

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Jefferson WI
      Posts
      61
      Country Flag: Norway
      I really dig that crossmember setup! Pretty clean install as well!!

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Moving from Burbs of Detroit to my native homeland, the woods of Cascadia
      Posts
      1,717
      Country Flag: United States
      Used the HPI on on my el-Camino frame- had to cut it up some since we used the factory boxed frame rather than the HPI boxing plates
      Greg Fast
      (yes, the last name is spelled correctly)

      1970 Camaro RS Clone
      1984 el Camino
      1973 MGB vintage E/Prod race car
      (Soon to be an SCCA H/Prod limited prep)

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Sep 2014
      Location
      Sun City West, AZ
      Posts
      670
      Country Flag: United States
      Although, a cage will add weight, the benefits of a cage is worth the added weight. You can always remove the added weight from other areas to get the weight back down to the pre-cage weight. Do not add a pre-fab off the shelf cage. You need to take it a reputable chassis fabricator not only for the chassis stiffness but, for your personal safety. A poor design installed cage can be more dangerous than no cage.

      After you have the cage built to a standard such as, the SCCA specs, it would be best to have the cage inspected, by a licensed tech inspector/scrutineer and obtain a vehicle log book with that inspection so you won't run into a problem in the future.
      --
      Kenny Mitchell
      [email protected]l.com

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Jefferson WI
      Posts
      61
      Country Flag: Norway
      Thanks for all the advice! Im really looking forward to making this car fast! Looks like Ill have to talk to a chassis shop I know very well about putting a full cage in the old girl! Thanks again for all the great advice!