L&H A-body spindles

[HotWired]

that is a AFX spindle designed for Camaros, chevelles and novas that uses corvette bearings made taller and allows corvette brakes to be used directly....I tested these a few years back, with different depth rims, different ball joints, and different control arms, and steering arms

That last picture with the brake caliper attached looks very familiar, lol. It was my for sale pic when i decided the ATS/Speedtech AFX spindle was a better choice for my project goals.

[David Pozzi]

Here's the new Chris Alston spindle. http://www.cachassisworks.com/c-1339...oem-style.aspx

[Nicks67GTO]

Here's the new Chris Alston spindle. http://www.cachassisworks.com/c-1339...oem-style.aspx

That spindle is cool....but the Speedtech AFX is just a bit more and has a far superior c7 bearing hub. The Alston piece doesn't even have a hub? I'm not sure what the market value is there?

[krom]

Are you sure the C7 bearing is superior at all??? It may be lighter, but I thought guys where having trouble finding one that would last on the track

[tommycomfort]

Went with UMI setup (#403256-3) that is what they use on their shop A-body. These have nice caster built into bottom arm, uppers are adjustable via a rod end in each side. They come equipped with .5 taller lower and .09 taller upper to correct camber gain issues.

I wanted SPC stuff BAD, but after much research and talking to numerous people I went with these for a few reason.
#1- I've heard of SPC upper breaking under extreme use
#2- I wanted Howe lowers in SPC, and very common to have to weld them in for looseness issues. Didn't care for that at all.

These on all accounts these are stronger in design since they adjust via rod end. vs adjustable cam in middle of arm.

Car is currently lowered 4", adding tall lower ball joint is gonna add another half inch drop. So gonna add a 1" coil spring spacer to end up with 3.5" drop.

Glad you're happy with that setup Greg!

[raustinss]

Are you sure the C7 bearing is superior at all??? It may be lighter, but I thought guys where having trouble finding one that would last on the track

I believe that was the C6 you are referring to which the Z06 and ZR1 were different from the "base model" corvettes. The C7 corvettes have a different hub from the C6 as well

[David Pozzi]

My vote is for the Corvette bearing unit. I would not run an old style spindle unless it was an oversized pin & bearing type. We solved our brake knock back problems when we went to the corvette bearings.

[TechGuy]

From the earlier comments in the thread it sounds like we made a product that was actually needed. People were a little unclear on the fact that our spindles were taller than factory. I added the word ‘tall’ in the e-store description.

Our FEA testing revealed the amount of flexibility in factory-style spindles and identified key areas for improvement. David’s pad knock-back issues demonstrate this perfectly. The original spindles and similar aftermarket ones were not designed for the larger brakes, wheel diameters and greater traction. They simply are not performance parts. Our goal was to design and build a significantly stiffer spindle, suitable for modern performance applications, while still being compatible with OEM-style brakes. This is the best upgrade option for an existing suspension and brake package or build a great direct-fit system around.

[beater65]

Got my UMI arms installed, only snafu I had was needed longer endlinks to clear tierods. No big deal.

Moved my steering arm to lower position holes on spindle as it should be. Probably another month before its back on its feet and can get aligned and driven. I have high hopes for completely new "feel" to car.

[jarretts70]

I haven't checked in on this thread in a bit. Beater, good to see you came up with a solution.

I was on the Chassisworks web site to look at the finalized pricing on the new aluminum spindle/steering arm setup. While there I got looking at other products and realized they list a dropped & tall steel spindle. I don't know how I missed it before, it was under 400. Looks similar to some of the other steel spindles that have been discussed before but could be another option. Curious to know if any one else has experience with it.

[beater65]

I haven't checked in on this thread in a bit. Beater, good to see you came up with a solution.

I was on the Chassisworks web site to look at the finalized pricing on the new aluminum spindle/steering arm setup. While there I got looking at other products and realized they list a dropped & tall steel spindle. I don't know how I missed it before, it was under 400. Looks similar to some of the other steel spindles that have been discussed before but could be another option. Curious to know if any one else has experience with it.

There are so many options to be considered. its tough to nail down what direction to go... I love the billet spindle/steering arm CA is offering. But that only corrected part of my issues, so I would have needed arms still on top of that. For me that was just to much $$. So after lots of considerations UMI arms and retaining my stock style spindle was correct choice for me.

[beater65]

Figured id give an update on my final setup.
Original plan of keeping drop spindle and using coil spring spacer didn't work out.

1965 Malibu wagon

UMI control arm set- 403256-3
These have .5 taller lower and .9 taller upper ball joints

Stock spindle

2" Hotchkis drop spring

Umi bumpsteer kit- 4061

REAR:
Spohn spherical bearing adjustable uppers

BMR spherical bearing lowers

Removed sway bar for now

















I wasn't thrilled with ride height after having a very aggressive drop that just looks fantastic. To this. BUT, its settling a little and growing on me. As well as it steers very well with none of previous chopping feel it had, no rubbing even at full lock, and no cringing on big bumps waiting to scrape or rub inner fender.

I haven't been super aggressive with on/off ramps yet, but seems to be much more stable and predictable. But there is a lot of new parts and car is just back on road after 7 months. We'll warm up to that.

[beater65]

Finally got to really test the setup at a local auto-X event. Im very happy with how it performed with current setup. Lots of room to improve of course. But for a car I don't have a ton of money in suspension and drive almost daily. I'm happy.

Heres the action.

https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=...VS9J0l6CtFxPlP

[darguy]

Resurrecting an old but good thread to compare notes with beater65 & jarrets70 after they've lived with the upgrades for a few years, and if anyone else input on this GM A-Body concept: improve camber gain with tall, stock height spindles & improve caster with control arms while maintaining capability to run stock(ish) brakes and use 15" wheels.

I'm building a '68 Beaumont Wagon and these are my objectives as well. From what I've been able to dig up through this thread and otherwise, is that my best bet is likely with CA Chassisworks, ridetech, or UMI products. I'm also in Canada, so exchange/shipping/brokerage is a part of the budget equation. I'm willing to spend real money, but hopefully not 1/3 of the total budget!

Thoughts?

[darguy]

I've had these SPC upper and lower control arms for 3-4 years now. I am happy with them. I bought them from SC&C along with there Press in, Howe .9 and .5 tall ball joints and there heavy duty connector. Using stock front springs, I put two SPC 1/2" bolt in spacers on the lowers. I was able to install them with out removing the springs

I would raise the front or drop the rear end. I like the sixties look though.. I think a car looks so much more aggressive with the front a little higher. That wagon would look so cool with the front slightly higher..

I find running high positive caster with a very slight negative camber and toe in make the car much more enjoyable to drive..
For caster on my 69 el Camino I run drivers side +6.5 and passenger side +7.
Camber is -.25. Very slight toe in, as close to zero as possible, adjusting from too much positive.

Solid feedback, thank you! Are you using any kind of bump-steer modifications? From what I can see all the options out there require the use of 17" wheels, which I beileve is the nature of the beast as aligning the TRE pivot point with the lower ball joint just requires more wheel diameter. If no, then is it particularly noticable? I'm looking to use period correct 15" wheels with 60-series tires. I imagine there will be enough compliance in the tires that it wouldn't be that noticable in regular street driving.