Pro-touring 72 Camaro SS

[Vimes]

So what exactly is the purpose of squaring off the fender?

[berdunord]

Goal is to create an air vent to remove heat and pressure from the engine bay, apply down force on the side of the car, like nismo did on r34 gtr z-tune

I don't like air duct added on the side of the fenders as we can see on pontiac cars for ex.

[TANKMASTERJ]

Dang Bernardo just when your car is totally killer you do something else!

I just want to drive mine lol

[berdunord]

What do you think about this z-tune fender ?

Honestly I like the way the line of the front fender follows the line of the rear fender but the flat surface and the hole next to the miror looks strange.

Feel fry to write what you think even if it's against that new fender.

I think I would let them OE

[thumper877]

I agree with you. I like the look for the front and side but from the back it almost looks like the fender is wrecked.

[Lonnies Performance]

I think it takes away from the clean lines of the car.
Even if highly functional, I would have to pass on the idea.

[berdunord]

Yes you are right, I think I consider a custom air vent

[TANKMASTERJ]

I agree with Lonnie's Performance. The OE fender limes are just to........ We all know what they look like look.
I would try some alternative vent ideas
Jason

[Vimes]

I understand what you want to do now, but I can't say I care for the design. I think that look worked for Nissan because that car has both rounded curves and sharp lines, and they transitioned gradually from the rounded part up front to the sharp line at the rear of the fender. It might look better on your Camaro if it followed the original body lines more, so more of a swelling out than putting sharp lines on a car that has none. The size of the vent also looks like it wouldn't do much for venting, and should probably have about twice that volume on the outlet. I think I'd also keep the top of the fender where it is, and swell the side out. Going at it this way would also give the top of the front tire a bit more clearance while blending in with the car's existing lines.

A couple of alternative thoughts -

Back when my dad was a drag racer in the 60s and 70s he said some of the car owners would raise the back of their hood 1 inch to vent under-hood pressure. It was apparently effective enough that it was against the rules to do this. You could probably do something like a 1 inch cowl hood where the cowl covers the entire hood, and is open to the rear. Or, you could remodel the hood to make a vent under the back that is unnoticeable. And, you can test this before putting any effort into it by just raising the back of the hood an inch and see if it would be effective for you. I don't know how they did this, but I'd do it by putting longer bolts in to hold the hood on, and use spacers between the hood and hinge. And, be extra careful closing it, because you don't want to damage the hood or springs.

Or, just don't let the air in to begin with. Think 3rd gen Firebird on this. Block off the rather large radiator opening with a metal panel that follows the back of the existing grill, and paint it black to match and nobody would even realize that you did this. Put an air scoop underneath the radiator like they did on the 3rd gen to route a controlled amount of air to the radiator. It will need to extend an inch or two underneath the front bodywork to be effective. 3rd gens were capable of keeping large cube supercharged engines cool even though there was no radiator opening because they were controlling air by directing it from underneath the car. This was also when they were just starting to go hog wild on emissions gear, which back then took up quite a bit of real estate, so there wasn't much room for air to move under the hood. Modern Corvettes do this as well, coming from the factory with supercharged 6.2L engines, a very tight engine bay with a hood that practically wraps itself around the engine, and no radiator opening. Even air conditioning works when set up this way.

[berdunord]

sorry to answer only now : I agree with you about the rouded curves and sharp line that worked well on R34 Z-tune, I thought it would look nice on a camaro but yes there is too much rouded curves. I thought the straight line on the front fender would have followed the straight line on the rear fender but it miss something. about the volume of the hole, I've never seen a z-tune fender but on a r34 it looks like pretty small, I don't think it exceed more than 1,5"

about my hood I've allready build an air vent just above the turbos but I'm not sure it's enought to remove a big quantity of air at high speed, above 150mph I saw my hood moving a lot so maybe build some bigger air vent and adding one on the fenders.

your idea with the 3rd gen firebird is interesting !

some news today : I had issues with fuel pressure above 20psi of boost and afr safety was turning on all time when I went full throttle, this was a multiple problem

1- fuel filters clugged
2- I need to clean all injectors and 2 o-rings dead
3- one of the 2 fuel pump dead

and when I've decided to run the 2 fuel pump separatly, I've forgotten that my FPR was regulating between 2.5-6 gpm, so with only 1 fuel pump running for light-mid throttle and cruise operation, it had not enought flow at 43.5psi, only 2gpm.

so to solve these issues, I'm waiting for a 3rd fuel pump, I will run 2 fuel pumps together that will bring the fuel flow to 4gpm and the 3rd will be active for ex at 5000rpm and 200kpa. with a 3rd fuel pump activated it will flow about 6.2 gpm so not a lot more that my FPR can accept, hope it will work else I'll go to -10an fuel feed line but I'm not worried about a -8an fuel line for 1500hp. My goal is allways 1300hp at 30psi of boost.

by adding a 3rd fuel pump, the new hp limit will be increased to about 1650hp at 73.5psi of absolute fuel pressure according to walbro hp vs fuel pressure chart for the F90000295 fuel pump. And Ill change the alternator pulley by a smaller one to increase charging capacity at idle and hope having at least 13v when the 3rd fuel pump will run with the 3 others. it will bring the pulley ratio from 2 to 2.4:1 that brings to the limit of 18 000 rpm alternator shaft speed at 7500 engine rpm.

an other interesting thing is the way to plumb the electronic boost controller, by connecting the port 1 of the soloenoid to top of wastegate, port 2 to pressure source and port 3 to bottom of wastegate, with a 11 psi spring we can reach a 26 psi of final boost pressure that is allmost a 2.4 multiplier, that is interesting for boost controlling for ex on 1st gear at 11psi of boost I know the car is going straight without losing traction, I begin to lose traction at about 13psi of boost so with a 13 psi spring I can set the boost at 13 psi on 1st gear, 25 psi on 2nd gear and 30 or more on 3rd..4th ..etc

[berdunord]

To remove a bit more pressure and heat from the engine bay, i m building 2 new air vent on the cowl induction. They will be placed just after the radiator so the hot air will be directly extracted from the engine bay to the hood

With the new alternator pulley, with the 3rd fuel pump active the minimum voltage reached is 13.4v and 14.2v at a 900rpm idle

And finally no loose of fuel pressure anymore at 25 psi of boost, so now I'm able to continu to tune the engine proportly

[berdunord]

[TANKMASTERJ]

New air and heat extractors looking killer Bernardo.
Jaaon

[berdunord]

Thx Jason

[berdunord]

Painted black I like it

[thumper877]

Vents look great. Should help with the heat too. Every time I see a post of ur car now I open it expecting to see some more model pics too

[berdunord]

Maybe in septembre we ll make some photos with a model ��

[berdunord]

How I ve plumbed the 3 fuel pumps, needed to build a stainless steel 4 way Y fitting.

[Vimes]

Interesting, but appears to be unsound. The picture implies that the third pump goes in first and will lay in the tank at an angle, which might cause it to not get a good draw under a third of a tank. Once the sock hits air, it may not draw fuel reliably. It also looks like it will move in the tank as you accelerate and brake. Up to you of course, but modifying the fuel tank opening to allow you to install the pumps as a rigid, upright package would be a better way to go. You can either cut a larger hole in, or install a second stock style fuel pump opening.

[berdunord]

Agree with what you said if it was an OE fuel tank.

There is a 5 liter fuel tray just below the pumps so the 3rd pump is stuck on a front corner of that tray to prevent fuel starvation and when the gauge shows an empty tank in fact there is always about 10 gallon of fuel so I know I need to drive normaly when it's almost empty.

I ve set the 3rd fuel pump to be active above 3500rpm and 150kpa.

If I have issues I ll cut the gas tank again and install the pumps as a rigid.

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