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    Page 18 of 30 FirstFirst ... 8 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 28 ... LastLast
    Results 341 to 360 of 583
    1. #341
      Join Date
      Sep 2017
      Posts
      825
      Country Flag: United States
      And by the way I freaking love the cut out and bolt together crossmember idea. I don't know why speedtech or dse , tci, or other chassis builders haven't done It.
      I know they want rigidity but it really sucks pulling an engine to drop a pan.

      TANKMASTERJ
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...touring-Camaro
      Jasons Toys
      67 Camaro White Lightning LMR LS7 powered, Speed tech Front and Rear.
      2023 Rapid Blue ZL1 the Blue Devil
      2000 HD Softail
      1989 CBR Hurricane anniversary edition


    2. #342
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      556
      True !

      I don't think I lose rigidity with the 4 tubes welded from the side of the subframe and the sway bar tube to the control arm brackets

    3. #343
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      556
      Allmost finished !






    4. #344
      Join Date
      Sep 2017
      Posts
      825
      Country Flag: United States
      Bernardo,
      The only thing wrong with it is that I didn't think of it before i droped my subframe at my buddy's shop to powder coat.
      I'm too late for cutting and welding on mine.
      But dang I'm wishing.
      That looks good and I agree I don't think you'll loose rigidity
      Keep up the good work
      Jason
      TANKMASTERJ
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...touring-Camaro
      Jasons Toys
      67 Camaro White Lightning LMR LS7 powered, Speed tech Front and Rear.
      2023 Rapid Blue ZL1 the Blue Devil
      2000 HD Softail
      1989 CBR Hurricane anniversary edition

    5. #345
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      556
      Jason, you''ll do it next time you drop your pan. This is not really difficult even with the engine sitting on the car.
      I'm using 1-3/4 x 0.1" chromoly tubing cause I have it in stock and did not want to order an other 30ft lenght tube but I think you can use smaller diameter tubing size like 1-1/4" and be sure to weld them before cutting !

    6. #346
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      556
      Finished, 3 in 1, removable motor crossmember, brake line bracket and steering stop cause I've never understand why the driver side tire touched the frame when turning full left, full right never had issues....solved

      Next step rear main seal replacement




    7. #347
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      556
      I can say alleluia ! Removing the oil pan without moving anything from the engine is so cool !




    8. #348
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      556
      Rear main seal changed, the last one appeared to be in a good shape but I prefer to change it. Need to change my oil pan gasket too








    9. #349
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,705
      Country Flag: United States
      I've heard you should also dab some silicone where the two seals come together.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD
      Follow me on Instagram: ryeguy2006a

    10. #350
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      556
      Some seals need silicone on the end, some not, on the installation instruction of that fel-pro 2912 rear main seal, nothing written about putting silicone on the end of the seals. But I ve corrected the way to put silicone on the cap as following


    11. #351
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,705
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking great man. I can't wait to see how the front bumper turns out all painted.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD
      Follow me on Instagram: ryeguy2006a

    12. #352
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      556

    13. #353
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      556











    14. #354
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      556
      back on the road soon !










    15. #355
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      556
      Oil pan ok hope there will have no leaks anymore.

      The big question now is : do I need stripes ? I think yes on the hood but on the front fenders and doors I don't know

      Any suggestions ?




    16. #356
      Join Date
      Mar 2006
      Location
      NYC
      Posts
      201
      Country Flag: United States
      A+A+A+ Good job looks very nice

    17. #357
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      556
      Thanks a lot !

      Yes no leaks anymore, it was finally the rear main seal, hope this one will hold a long time.

      About the stripes as shown bellow on the rendering, I don't know....

      I like the Speedtech Performance sticker too....on the rear fender






    18. #358
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      556
      before



      after








    19. #359
      Join Date
      Oct 2016
      Posts
      556
      Finally driven yesterday, I'm really happy with my car. Handling is a bit better with those wider tires, braking is crazy with those racing pads. Awaiting for molding clips and she will be definitly finished !

    20. #360
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Posts
      3
      Quote Originally Posted by berdunord View Post
      thanks a lot guys !

      today I just had the time to install one 14" disc and polymatrix B pads, this WE all discs will be installed, it looks better.

      with those wheels and 8mm spacer to have the correct offset, I have almost 3/4" clearance between the cailper and the wheel

      a bigger caliper would be nice too !






      looks good, loving the build. Working on a 1971 camaro myself and just got some wheels for it. Curious if you had to replace the wheel studs on the front of if you’re still running the 1.3” length studs? I ask because I can’t find any longer with the correct knurl and there isn’t enough thread engagement with the wheel mounted to trust the lugs are secure. I saw you mention running shank style lugs, if you went this route did you also run shank style lugs on the rear? If so, which ones did you go with? Thanks!

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