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    Thread: 1972 C10 Build

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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      100
      Country Flag: United States

      1972 C10 Build

      Hey guys,

      So i already had a thread started in the project section, but i decided to make a new one in the truck category concidering this is a truck build and this is where it belongs. My goals for the truck are to do some track days, autocross events and drive it on the street. I have had the truck in my family for over 20 years and it was my high school ride, and i finally have gotten to start building it. Before i started building it, it was a leaf spring truck with a Small block and a TH350. It is staying a longbed, i dont have any desire to change it. I am super ocd on stuff being right so i try to use thread lock, steel or nylon lock nuts, cotter keys or anti-seize on everything that needs it. Bovey with the targa truck has been a huge help with questions as well as pch rods and many other people.

      Suspension- I installed a Hotchkis Tvs kit (control arms, springs, sway bars, center link, pan hard bar, shock mounts, tie rod adjusters) with ridetech HQ shocks, ECE trailing arms, and CPP drop spindles. The truck had leaf springs so i changed it over because of how well the trailing arm suspension works.

      Steering- All i did for the steering was get a cpp 500 steering box, the hotchkis center link and rebuilt the rest of the steering with proforged parts (tie rod ends, pitman, idler). i might change the box later on but i will see how it does for now. I will be installing a power steering cooler seeing that is highly recommended everywhere ive seen.

      Brakes-I went to Ron Sutton to make my brake package i already have and make it better. My brake package now consists of a Wilwood replacement D52 caliper up front which has (2) 2.00" pistons that uses a stock size parts store rotors and i used timken bearings and morose studs. A D154R rear caliper which is another gm repacement from wilwood, but this has (1) 2.00" piston, i was recommended a 7/8 bore tandem master cylinder with a proportioning valve so thats what i got and Depending on which type of driving i will be doing, he made me a calc sheet with a different pad compounds for autox, track days and street driving which is nice. I am taking brake cooling into consideration as well to help with the heat the brakes will be seeing. (calc sheets below)

      Differential- I used the stock truck 12 bolt and installed a Trutrac, New axles with arp studs, Richmond 3:73 gears, billet 1350 yoke and a girdled cover. The rear brakes are floating so a c-clip eliminator was not needed, seeing that fixed brake calipers and c clip axles do not go well together.



      Tires and wheels- Rocket Booster 18x9 with Bridgestone RE11's 275/40-18

      List of To do's next:
      -Fuel cell, fuel lines and wiring
      -Relocate battery to rear
      -Make new brake lines
      -Get a cross member made for the rear shocks and do some other frame work.
      -Take out old cross member so i can install rear sway bar (on longbeds theres a crossmember that gets in the way)
      - Safety harness bar made and installed
      -Aluminum radiator/ fans/ wiring
      -Install power steering cooler

      (there's other odd's and ends i have to address as well)



      For the engine i have a 5.3 i picked up with 70k miles on it out of a 2008 suburban, it has 243 heads and a trailblazer ss intake so im hoping i can use those with the set up i want. My plan is to get a rebuild with a good cam and some head work and run it. For the transmission i am looking towards a 4l80e. But before i start that i have to finish the suspension, get the brakes lines done, do some frame work, mount the fuel cell and get the wiring done. I will keep you guys updated as i go, if you have any questions feel free to ask thanks!
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    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jun 2013
      Location
      San Diego
      Posts
      272
      Country Flag: United States
      I like it. I'm neck deep in painting my 1972 C10 project, so its nice to see some of the goodies.

      Suspension is looking good. You got any picks of the outside/interior?
      Brian

      1972 C10 - 454/TH400 - Short bed conversion - https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...1972-C10-SoCal
      1970 Nova - LS Swap - https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...Cal?highlight=



    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      100
      Country Flag: United States
      I cant roll the truck out at the moment, but here is a picture from a few months ago. Ill get some interior pictures this week, its just stock interior for now. I will probably be getting seats, some sort of new gauge cluster (racepak/dakota digital/Autometer) and maybe a different steering wheel after i get it running and driving. Other than that i will be keeping it pretty simple.Name:  thumbnail_IMG_3358.jpg
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    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      Texas
      Posts
      297
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking good man. Sounds like this will be a fun track truck once you get it out and dialed in.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2015
      Posts
      62
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice truck I have the same suspension setup. Pm me your number I have some questions. Thanks

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      100
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks guys!

      When i got the rear end back from the shop a few months, i don't know if i had a lug with junk threads or what, but after installing the rear end, i put my wheels on and when removing one of the lugs to take them back off, it seized up on the stud and the only way to get it off involved tearing the threads off of it, so tonight i popped the cover off and took the axle out so i can get the stud out, Too much work for one stud. Check your threads on the studs and lugs while the wheels are off and i recommend putting some anti seize on them as well.

      Just have to order new ones and some more gear oil and that's finished. I should be able to order my fuel cell next week, ill keep you guys updated!Name:  14585326_1070601143008584_651026465_n.jpg
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    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Posts
      469
      Quote Originally Posted by Cshenker1121 View Post
      Thanks guys!

      When i got the rear end back from the shop a few months, i don't know if i had a lug with junk threads or what, but after installing the rear end, i put my wheels on and when removing one of the lugs to take them back off, it seized up on the stud and the only way to get it off involved tearing the threads off of it, so tonight i popped the cover off and took the axle out so i can get the stud out, Too much work for one stud. Check your threads on the studs and lugs while the wheels are off and i recommend putting some anti seize on them as well.

      Just have to order new ones and some more gear oil and that's finished. I should be able to order my fuel cell next week, ill keep you guys updated!Name:  14585326_1070601143008584_651026465_n.jpg
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      I had problems with studs and nuts as well on my '71 GMC. I'd reco putting proper ARP studs and Moroso nuts on if you are going to push on it. All of my front studs where stretched and one stud spun after an AutoX one week-end. I've had zero issues with the ARP/Moroso stuff.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      100
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by bovey View Post
      I had problems with studs and nuts as well on my '71 GMC. I'd reco putting proper ARP studs and Moroso nuts on if you are going to push on it. All of my front studs where stretched and one stud spun after an AutoX one week-end. I've had zero issues with the ARP/Moroso stuff.
      Bovey, I am using arp studs on the back and moroso's studs on the fornt. Is the lug nuts you are recommending the moroso part#46330?



    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2011
      Location
      Sevierville, TN
      Posts
      525
      Country Flag: United States
      Can you give some more info on the rear brake setup? I may be upgrading rear brakes soon. I want to make sure I run a sliding caliper setup.
      Matt Kenner

      68 C10 stepside

      If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      100
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      Quote Originally Posted by Slick68 View Post
      Can you give some more info on the rear brake setup? I may be upgrading rear brakes soon. I want to make sure I run a sliding caliper setup.
      I used a wilwood d154 rear parking brake package (i believe the part number is 140-12215), it included the whole mounting set up (backing plate with parking brake system and caliper mount), rotors, pads and small piston d154 calipers (didn't use because the piston's were too small and didn't create enough braking torque, it was horribly unbalanced, so i sold those and got what Ron recommended, a wilwood part# 120-13899) Id reccomend calling wilwood and see if they can make you this package with this caliper instead, it'll save you some money if they can.

      The difference in the two is the piston diameter,The D154 that comes with the kit has dual 1.12 diameter pistons. The D154R that i ended up with has a single 2.00 diameter piston.

      I also removed the parking brake system from the backing plate, i did not like it, if i decide to add one later i am just going to install line lock so i can just add pressure to the brake pedal, flip the switch and it will be used like a parking brake.

      Thanks guys!

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      Prescott, AZ
      Posts
      205
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      Count us in. We love seeing trucks tearing up the autoX!

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      100
      Country Flag: United States
      I got my fuel cell from boyd welding, I fixed the stripped studs on the rear axles, replaced my body mounts, got my front upper shock mounts and took the bed off so i can start taking some of the riveted frame pieces that i don't need then i can take the truck to the fabricator in a couple of weeks to get the suspension and brakes finished. Then i can start wiring the truck and get working on the engine and transmission.

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    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Arizona
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      100
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      I finally got the truck back from the fabracator, i had him

      -weld in a c notch
      - brace the panhard bar between the frame rails and on the outer side
      - make new shock cross member
      - fill in from frame rails where they were notched out
      - stainless steel brake lines
      - install rear sway bar
      - put new sleeves in the trailing arms for the swivel max bushings
      - weld in mounts for fuel cell
      - remove all riveted cross members
      - set pinion angle
      -put in front upper shock mounts

      and some other small things, i think he did well and was very reasonable. Next i am starting on rebuilding the engine.

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    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Arizona
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      another picture
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Arizona
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      100
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      So i am beginning the wiring harness tomorrow and hoping to have it done by this weekend. I went with american auto wire.

      Also where are you guys mounting your battery? in the bed near the tailgate or under the bed, or more near the cab? And what are you guys using for a battery box/tray? i see there are some drop down boxes from No Limit and other companies and All Star Performance has some cheaper steel ones as well as ive seen sealed boxes? Any input is appreciated. Thanks guys!

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Atlanta, GA
      Posts
      296
      Quote Originally Posted by Cshenker1121 View Post
      - put new sleeves in the trailing arms for the swivel max bushings
      Clean build and I like the parts selection. Do you know if the sleeves required any fabrication/spacer or if ECE used a stock size poly joint and the swivel max went in like it would a stock trailing arm?
      Lamar
      00 C5 hardtop H&C 436 rwhp with an 04 Z06 Suspension
      70 Chevelle SS396

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      100
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      Okay so this is what i have completed lately

      -rocker panels installed and rusted panels removed from floors
      -american autowire kit installed
      -tore the truck down and painted the entire chassis and engine bay with KBS coatings
      -got my radiator from entropy, installed it along with new mounts.
      -fuel door filled in
      -battery box installed

      For the money i think the coating kit was very good for the money, the truck had leaks coming from everywhere previously so there was a lot of grease and grime built up in the engine bay and all over the chassis, and their product did exactly what they said it would.


      Next is the transmission. I will be more than likely be going with one of bowlers packages they have, they seem to have a very very good reputation from everyone. Name:  18493004_1277990972269599_654733179_o.jpg
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    18. #18
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Posts
      46
      Where are you putting the battery box? Have a pic? I read that for autox, weight should ideally be equal (front left + rear right) to (front right + rear left) which makes me think that driver's side is the side to relocate to.

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Arizona
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      100
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      I moved mine right behind the cab on the passenger side.

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Jan 2016
      Location
      Arizona
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      100
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      I ended up removing my inner fender wells and core support seeing how much rust and grease there was and I am getting them sand blasted and powder coated.

      I went back and forth with a couple of engine builders locally and they all had around the same number for building the engine I had. After doing the math I decided to get a gm performance ls3. I felt it was a good deal for the money.

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