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  1. #41
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    1,550
    Country Flag: United States
    Wow, that is incredible that was that rusty! Keep up the good work on the repairs!



    New Project: 1968 Camaro LS6, T56, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt

    1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD


  2. #42
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    137
    Thanks guys. Looking forward to getting it back on the road.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    137
    Cowl is officially on. With all the new metal I decided the rear engine panels and the radiator core support looked horrible. Off with the old and ordered some new sheet metal.

    By tomorrow night it will have a front suspension and be able to roll again.

    Now the fun starts.









  4. #44
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    128
    Country Flag: United States
    Looking forward to your next update. Great job!!!

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    137
    Stuck the doors on today to make sure everything fit. Fit Pretty good for just sticking them on. They will adjust iut nicely with tight gaps.

    I epoxied the inside of the outer cowl panels and got the drivers side fitted up. Plenty of clean up left to do. My grinder is going to be busy soon.









  6. #46
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    128
    Country Flag: United States
    Quote Originally Posted by Dalpilot View Post
    Cowl is officially on. With all the new metal I decided the rear engine panels and the radiator core support looked horrible. Off with the old and ordered some new sheet metal.

    By tomorrow night it will have a front suspension and be able to roll again.

    Now the fun starts.


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    [URL=http://s899.photobucket.com/user/Deranged_Racing/media/2104C0E5-AB4F-42E1-87E1-6EFE17E27533_zps8ekhfejm.jpg.html]
    Question ? Did you use a panel adhesive on the outer cowl pieces inside flange? That sounds like a tongue twister, but, I've seen some separate the cowl to gain access to the flange, and I've seen a restoration shop use a 3M two part adhesive to bond these. Was just curious to your method. They posted a video on YouTube how they did it, and some other repairs to the same 70 Sportsroof, and it looked to be a place that did quality work. I've got to do this repair to one of my 70 models, I've got the cowl removed but it's been sitting for a while. Seeing your project has inspired me to get back to work on my project, if I ever get my son's car finished.

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    137
    Since I didn't hqve the outer panels on, I could access the flange from the outside, welding upside down and a few of the spots I could access by going through access holes. When the outer cowl panel is off you have comolete access to the flange. If the outer is on its nearly impossible. I will snap some pics of the other side before I close it up today.

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Ma.
    Posts
    5,049
    Country Flag: United States
    Nice work! It looks good.
    Wayne
    Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
    Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    116
    Country Flag: United States
    I love 70's, I am one of the few and proud, that like them over a 69, I'm doing a 70 Camaro now but I absolutely love the styling of a 69 and 70 Mustang, by far the prettiest mustang ever made. IMHO, nice work

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    137
    Finished the Passenger side and officially done with the rust repair in that area.

    Started putting the front suspension on then found out Willwood now makes a 6 piston caliper for the front. The 4 pistons are going back and waiting on the new ones.

    Needed to move it out to get the media blasting done. Turns out the dolly works great. LOL








  11. #51
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    137
    Quote Originally Posted by Bossed View Post
    Question ? Did you use a panel adhesive on the outer cowl pieces inside flange? That sounds like a tongue twister, but, I've seen some separate the cowl to gain access to the flange, and I've seen a restoration shop use a 3M two part adhesive to bond these. Was just curious to your method. They posted a video on YouTube how they did it, and some other repairs to the same 70 Sportsroof, and it looked to be a place that did quality work. I've got to do this repair to one of my 70 models, I've got the cowl removed but it's been sitting for a while. Seeing your project has inspired me to get back to work on my project, if I ever get my son's car finished.

    Here ya go.

  12. #52
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    128
    Country Flag: United States
    Quote Originally Posted by Dalpilot View Post
    Here ya go.
    Ahh, I didn't think about the side covers being removed while you replaced the top part. Very good, love seeing you bring her back to life, beautiful car. Thanks for sharing, and keep up the good work !!

    Bossed

  13. #53
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    137
    The rear fender aprons were all that were left after putting in the MTF ifs system. They looked pretty beat up. I figured since I had changed out so much what was a couple other pieces.

    I ordered both rear aprons and the Radiator core support. The passenger side came in, I had some time before dinner so I went ahead and put it in. It looks mich nicer. The drivers side and core support is on backorder.






  14. #54
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    137
    I knew rhe trunk floor had some rust but this was suprising. The previous owner was a freakin ninja master with bondo. The rear and passenger side will be getting replaced.











    Then I find the taillight panel has a freakin mesh patch with bondo in it. Oh well, I like the 69 tailights better. Might change it out.



  15. #55
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    128
    Country Flag: United States
    It's amazing what can hide under a beautiful exterior, makes you want to kick somebody's ass.

  16. #56
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    137
    The good news is it will be done right this time.

  17. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    137
    Spent a few hours today, sittingin the spot where the fuel tank goes, getting all the old spot welds out and prepping the area for the new floor and rear brace. It sucked mire than anything I have done to the car thus far. Running a grinder in the trunk sucks. Still have some more to dp.





  18. #58
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    162
    Country Flag: United States
    Rebuilding parts out of filler, that should have been replaced is just wrong. I've seen a lot worse but you are going about it correctly. At least this area is much "easier" than the cowl repair.

    You could sell the bondo on fleebay as a composite trunk patch kit lol.

    Nice work

  19. #59
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    137
    Tha ks Mike. There is a small fabric/bondo patch right on the tail light cutout that I found from the inside right behind the bumper support bracket. I REALLY don't want to replace the entire panel but I guess I will see how bad it really is when it gets media blasted.

    The good news is e car is about 500#'s lighter getting all the bondo out. Should be a screamer.

  20. #60
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    137
    These came in today. They should help her stop.

    Waiting on the rear trunk sheet metal, fender skirts and the MTF radiator core support to finish her up and get it out to paint.




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