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    Results 21 to 40 of 104
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Waconia, MN
      Posts
      113
      Country Flag: United States

      FAST FORWARD several years: Present day

      Brought it home just before the 4th of July this year.

      Here's a couple shots showing the watts link and chassis mounting for it a little better and also a shot of some clearance issues that I'll need to address.

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      The watts pivot is shown in the uppermost hole above. When everything is mocked up at ride height, it actually rides in the center hole.

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      Clearance for driveshaft and torque arm droop? Yeah, might be needing some of that.
      I can barely slide a quarter between the crossmember and the lower bar of the torque arm.
      I have a plan to remedy that.



    2. #22
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,336
      Country Flag: Canada
      Lol yes patience great song lol....sorry yes of course it ends there for the narrowing of the frame at the rear rails , guess in my mind and how I saw it I forgot how short of a wheelbase these things have . Great fab work btw .

      I had a 87 Jimmy that I swapped a 92 blazer front end on , new rear hatch hinges to remove the spoiler ...lowered etc . Had lined up a 350 for a swap but once I took mine apart the donor was stolen and well...you get the idea. Always wanted to do blazer ,swap in a awd transfer case and front axles then v8 swap ....so basically a v8 typhoon so to say .
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter @raustinss
      On Instagram austinss70

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Waconia, MN
      Posts
      113
      Country Flag: United States
      On that subject.... the frame still needs another 36"? (gotta verify that) section from rear axle centerline to bolt up the rear of the cab and hang a gas tank/fuel cell from......

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Spring, Texas
      Posts
      40
      Country Flag: United States
      Great work, and love the two bikes in the background. Those are two of Honda's best classics. That thing is going to look incredible by the looks of that chassis.



      Brian
      Brian

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Jun 2014
      Posts
      160
      Country Flag: United States
      Man i am loving this build. I have owned 2 89 jimmys, so this gets me in the feels. the last one was a dream in the making with no budget to bring it to reality so i sold it after i swapped in a 350 from a 9c1 caprice. It ran but not really great and i just couldnt afford to finish it. Loving the back half frame, the front suspension is good on these trucks but I can definatley understand your hindsight wishes of a full frame build. good luck with the build. have you started on the body yet?

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Waconia, MN
      Posts
      113
      Country Flag: United States
      oldblu68: Thanks, but I can't take credit for much of what you've seen so far other than the initial dream/direction. The only fab work of mine seen so far is the torque arm and mounting bracket to the axle. And just FYI, that "2nd Honda" is actually a Suzuki SV650.

      2ndroundko: These trucks are narrow, and the width between the rails doesn't leave much room for things like 1-3/4" long tube headers and the rails themselves are somewhat wide, which leaves you short on tire clearance. So yeah.... kind of a "stuffing 10 pounds of stuff in a 5 pound bag" sort of thing. The body looks mostly like the pictures from 10 years ago. I went to a wingless, borderless hatch glass, shaved the gate and welded in a roll pan. Stock otherwise. The body is still in a roller state on its original, uncut frame. Unfortunately, I currently have it stored about an hour away as I don't have room for it at home.

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Posts
      33
      Sub'd. Awesome project

    8. #28
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      Iowa
      Posts
      399
      Country Flag: United States
      So did you figure out how to get 285's on the front? I got 275s on the front of mine without any rubbing. They are nittos tho which they do run a bit smaller, with the cutting you are doing I figure you could fairly easy make some room for larger tires.
      Miles Boyer
      The car hobby is dangerous,if the speed doesn't kill you, the cost of parts will.
      91 V8 S10
      88 Cutlass Pro-Tour
      97 Chevy lifted Z-71
      96 Corvette

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Waconia, MN
      Posts
      113
      Country Flag: United States
      Yes and no. Will I be able to physically bolt them up? Sure.
      But unless I can come up with a non-budget-busting method to modify my cast-in-place steering arms and not have to completely re-think my steering linkage to not have bump-steer....I'm stuck with using 1-1/2" hubcentric spacers.
      Not really my first choice for a solution.
      That's based on the current location of the tierod to wheel right now with an 8-1/2" wheel.
      Add 1-1/2" to the inside of the wheel will mean spacing it away from the tierod an equal amount.
      "Fit" without rubbing? Remains to be seen, but I have serious doubts. But I also have no qualms about cutting this truck up as needed.

      What's the wheel specs on your fronts? width, and backspace?

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Waconia, MN
      Posts
      113
      Country Flag: United States
      My gas regulator on my MIG decided it was time to die. Gotta pick up one of those.

      Just got a couple new toys (tools) from Horror Fraught that will help with chassis fab considerably. Gotta love those "Super Sale" and 20% off coupons.

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Jul 2012
      Location
      Iowa
      Posts
      399
      Country Flag: United States
      My rims are 17 x 9.5 with 4.5" of back space. If fairly certain if i had 18s i could run a slightly wider rim with more back space. this is with 2" drop spindles from djm or some company. I bought some afx spindles awhile back from another board member and have yet to mock them up to see what happens with them.

      this is in my build thread, post #39 shows what the 275 tire fits like, https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...Race-S10/page2, i should prolly update that thing a bit, havnt done anything to the thread since 2014
      Miles Boyer
      The car hobby is dangerous,if the speed doesn't kill you, the cost of parts will.
      91 V8 S10
      88 Cutlass Pro-Tour
      97 Chevy lifted Z-71
      96 Corvette

    12. #32
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      St. George, UT
      Posts
      1,144
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey Silvermonte, some info that you may need-

      I own a G body which shares suspension parts with S10s. I also bought JDM spindles for "'82+ S10" but found the steering arm was too close to the 17x9.5 w/ 5.5" bs wheels and ended up not using them. Rather I switched to Speedtech's Chicane coilover conversion and got my 2.5" drop with them, still using stock spindles.

      On the ATS spindles, the ball joint taper is different between the early muscle cars and the later G Body/ S10, so we have a specific spindle for the G body and a specific one for the AFX cars- A= Chevelle F= Camaro X = Nova. Since you bought them used make sure you have the right one for your application. You'll also need the correct steering arms for a G body, which are also different from the AFX cars. We've never tried them on an S10 but from what other customers have let us know the G body and S10 are interchangeable, so if you have the right spindles and arms for the G body they should fit ok and you'll find they're pretty awesome spindles.

      Hopes this info sheds some light for you and anyone following along.
      -Ben, Creative Director at Speedtech Performance
      We sell some really cool parts, build cool cars, and do cool concept renderings too!
      435-628-4300 www.speedtechperformance.com
      My Pumkinator build thread- https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ght=pumkinator

    13. #33
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Waconia, MN
      Posts
      113
      Country Flag: United States
      silvermonte: Thanks for the wheel info and your project link, hadn't seen that yet, great stuff. There's hope for getting the 285's up there one way or another!

      Ben@ST: I would love to go with the ATS/AFX spindles/steering arms, but the budget won't allow a $1500 hit at the moment.

      Should have a small picture update after the weekend.

    14. #34
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Waconia, MN
      Posts
      113
      Country Flag: United States
      Made a little progress on the lack of clearance at the rear crossmember issue. Scroll up to the last pic in post #21 to see where I started from.

      But first some tools! One of the best parts of a build is that you can easily justify tool purchases.

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      New MIG regulator that replaced the original that blew out the diaphragm.

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      14" chop saw and variable speed bandsaw. Yep, from Hazard Fraught. They get the job done.

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      1/4" shank air powered die-grinder.

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      Ugggh, pics got out of order. Anyway, still have to make a closeout piece for the torque arm clearance cut and finish the radius cutout for the driveshaft loop.

      Still not sure exactly how I want to integrate the 2" wide loop into the 3" wide crossmember..... suggestions?
      Attached Images Attached Images    

    15. #35
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      St. George, UT
      Posts
      1,144
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by SonomaZ View Post
      silvermonte: Thanks for the wheel info and your project link, hadn't seen that yet, great stuff. There's hope for getting the 285's up there one way or another!

      Ben@ST: I would love to go with the ATS/AFX spindles/steering arms, but the budget won't allow a $1500 hit at the moment.

      Should have a small picture update after the weekend.
      Lol! That's the only reason they're not on my car yet too, and one of the last suspension parts on my list to still get. The benefits are great for the guys that want that last bit of geometry help to push the car to the next level. In this case I think it's safe to say the wait to save up for them is worth it.

      The photos are great, I'm anxious to watch as this all pans out. The right tools are awesome, wuh wuh wuh (Tim Allen grunts).
      -Ben, Creative Director at Speedtech Performance
      We sell some really cool parts, build cool cars, and do cool concept renderings too!
      435-628-4300 www.speedtechperformance.com
      My Pumkinator build thread- https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ght=pumkinator

    16. #36
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Buford, GA
      Posts
      923
      Country Flag: United States
      Great thread that I wish I had seen sooner. Glad to see you're making progression, Rich.

      Rich, you are actually more familiar with Miles's ATS parts than you realize...they're my old parts. And he won't need to worry about any BJ taper issues as they're correct. He just needs to replace the ball joint stud on the driver's side.

      Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming!! :D
      Adam
      1985 S10 - LT1 + T56
      1964 Chevy II 4-Door - LS1 + T56

    17. #37
      Join Date
      Aug 2016
      Location
      Waconia, MN
      Posts
      113
      Country Flag: United States
      Good to see you Adam, knew you were around here somewhere.
      Not much new to report unfortunately. Should start picking up again soon though.
      8" engine setback is next along with motor and trans. mounts.

      correction: I did get the d/s and torque arm clearancing in the crossmember done.
      Last edited by SonomaZ; 05-05-2017 at 09:26 AM. Reason: self-inflicted grammar/spelling nazi

    18. #38
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,506
      Country Flag: United States
      I'll have to admit, some serious fabrication skills going on. Looking good!

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats. FiTech EFI, Tanks Inc. Tank with Deutschwerks fuel pump.

    19. #39
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      453
      Country Flag: United States
      Quietly following along.
      *Jeff*
      Project Salty - 1964 4 door Malibu, beaten, neglected, red headed foster child
      Cammed LQ4 / T56 Swap Project Thread <-click to read! 😁

    20. #40
      Join Date
      Aug 2011
      Location
      Granite City
      Posts
      114
      I see I needed to track it down over hear to keep in the loop... lol

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