Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register



    Page 1 of 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 ... LastLast
    Results 1 to 20 of 163
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      179
      Country Flag: United States

      79 C10 Autocross build. "THE REAPER"

      Hello

      I have been building this truck slowly ovee the last few years and have been racing it some. I figured now is the time to start a build thread as things are starting to pick up and get good with this build.



      Things start out with a 79 c10 with a 5.3l 4l80e. Basic mods on engine to include a Z06 cam, springs, decked heads, long tubes, etc.
      The suspension was zed in the front 3" with 2.5" drop spindles, one cpil cut on moog 6454 springs, 1 ton front sway bar, and 17x8 rims with 255/40r17 615ks that are basically slicks now. The rear has an axle flip, c notch, relocated shocks to stand them upright, a long panhard bar, 17x8s with 255/40r17 615ks.

      The truck handles great with the exception of having absolutely no traction and a tad underpowered. I am consistently running about 6-8 seconds behind the leaders in the CAM-T class. So im thinking with some tires and some creative suspension mods i should be getting closer.

      The plans: not really revealing full details yet but i have purchased an 06 crown victoria front crossmember and have called Ron Sutton to get some parts quotes. Here are some pictures of how it sits currently





    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Escondido CA
      Posts
      493
      Country Flag: United States
      Awesome Bryan! The beast seems to handle pretty good already, what are the major advantages of the Crown Vic other than the rack?

      1973 Corvette Factory Primer Car
      1969 Barracuda Convertible
      1967 Plymouth Valiant

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      179
      Country Flag: United States
      I agree for what it is there is almost no body roll and it sticks well and rides well. I am plagues with being HEAVY! and all you other CAM cars are about 1000# lighter than i. So the plan was to remove weight and/or move fromt wheels forwards to better distribute that weight if it cant be removed. After going back and forth with ideas and bench racing with my sponsor Current Performance in El Cajon Ca, we decided that a crown vic crossmber would be an easy swap. It is LIGHT (i can pick it up) where the crossmember i have now i can barely pick up without any suspension pieces bolted to it. Plus it comes with a rack and disc brakes and coilovers. And since this is a fairly modular design it would be simple to make a tube front end for it at the same time to land the ride height and suspension geometry where i want it exactly. No more hodge podge parts. I feel i can design this to accept an 18x10 rims with say....285 35 18s fairly easy. Plus withy steerimg box out of the way i can move the crossmber forward and help get some weight on the rear tires.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      179
      Country Flag: United States





      Some examples of almost no body roll up front

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Dec 2015
      Location
      Ruhr-Area, NRW, Germany
      Posts
      313
      Country Flag: Germany
      I like the "Recycled Racing" sticker on the windshield. Mind if i copy that some time?

      For the weight problems:
      - glass or carbon fibre hood and bumper
      - punch "speed" holes into the inner structures of the fenders and core support (use a punch for sink mixer taps, these make nice clean holes and are pretty cheap to aquire)
      - relocate the battery, loose battery tray
      - replace copper rad with an aluminum version

      You could aswell put some weight into the rear of the bed... like 3/8" steel plate bolted to the bed floor. Needs a bit more HP to move it around but it's an option to shift weight...

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      179
      Country Flag: United States
      Sure you can use that. It was something i came up with since all my parts are recycled from the junkyard or craigslist. No bigh dollar build here.

      Ive cut almost 250# off the truck since my last trip to the scales. I removed 30# from the hood by cutting all the bracing out. 25# from gutting the core support. Cut the fenders down to just the outer skin, removed outer bumper brackets, etc. I also had put a fleet side bed in place of the wood bed to add some weight back there.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2015
      Location
      Ruhr-Area, NRW, Germany
      Posts
      313
      Country Flag: Germany
      Fuel tank in the back?
      On my Dodge i can use the fuel tank of the Ramchargers and mount that way behind the rear axle.

      Is your 5.3 an all aluminum block or the iron version?

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      179
      Country Flag: United States
      Yes the fuel tank is out back. On the c10s we can run a blazer tank in the rear frame rails. That is the setup i have. Block is an iron block. I would love to switch to an aluminum block but its not in the cards right now. Maybe down the road once i have no other weight reducing options.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      Texas
      Posts
      297
      Country Flag: United States
      digging the thread! These squarebodies are starting to get a little action lately with the PT crowd.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      179
      Country Flag: United States
      Ya there are a few c10s wrecking house out here. I am hoping to make something that might get some attention and beat a few "race cars" while im at it.

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jun 2014
      Posts
      160
      Country Flag: United States
      my truck is torn down right now hoping to borrow some tips from you and mtrhead to make my truck a great driver and ok autoxer. how many leafs are you running in the rear right now?

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      El Segundo, CA
      Posts
      268
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Mtrhd329 View Post
      Ive cut almost 250# off the truck since my last trip to the scales. I removed 30# from the hood by cutting all the bracing out. 25# from gutting the core support. Cut the fenders down to just the outer skin, removed outer bumper brackets, etc. I also had put a fleet side bed in place of the wood bed to add some weight back there.
      The scale report shows your truck weighs more than 4000 lbs. I am curious where all that mass is located. When I got my '56 F100 back from a prior builder back in 2010 it weighed 2960 lbs. I am not joking. But that was with no bumpers and no bed floor. With that stuff added, plus the mass of a fuel injection manifold, eight ignition coils etc. and a bunch of sound proofing I'm still around 3300 lbs. Why would there be such a large difference. Were the body panels thicker on the later trucks?

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      179
      Country Flag: United States
      2roundko-

      Im running 4 leafs. #1,2,3,5 per the Make it handle thread

      DrG- i think curb weight depending on options are around 3800-4000. That weight was with my 275# fat butt in it. I think the frames are thicker between your model and mine and some thicker panels maybe. I was surprised to see such a difference in curb weights also.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Dec 2015
      Location
      Ruhr-Area, NRW, Germany
      Posts
      313
      Country Flag: Germany
      Reviewing your weight chart i don't think you can pull a lot more weight without replacing larger components with lighter stuff, like fenders and the hood, the bumper...
      You could have your hood and fenders acid dipped to reduce weight. I don't know if that still can be done...

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      179
      Country Flag: United States
      I agree. I have already removed the inner hood bracing and the inner fender structure and some other basic weight reduction mods. Thats why im going towards a frame build and crossmember swap. I have also been toilying with cutting out the firewall and floor and making it all aluminum panels. The cab is 600# with no doors or seats. It will get down to 3000# somehow.....

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Dec 2015
      Location
      Ruhr-Area, NRW, Germany
      Posts
      313
      Country Flag: Germany
      Have a look at the parts of http://www.usbody.com/
      I am thinking about buying a hood from them.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Aug 2012
      Location
      san diego
      Posts
      179
      Country Flag: United States
      I have been looking for fiberglass parts for a while now but my bidget is extremely small for this build so thats not.happening for a while. All of my purchases will be craigslist or ebay for a while. But slowly aelling my extra parts for the 3 link build so maybe i will have some left over. I got.my hood down from 78 to 44# now so thats a start.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Dec 2015
      Location
      Ruhr-Area, NRW, Germany
      Posts
      313
      Country Flag: Germany
      I happened to fail to see that before, is that a wing on the rear of the bed?
      Could you take a picture of that for me?

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      Escondido CA
      Posts
      493
      Country Flag: United States
      Bryan can we get a SCCA Match Tour report? How did the beast feel?

      1973 Corvette Factory Primer Car
      1969 Barracuda Convertible
      1967 Plymouth Valiant

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Dec 2015
      Location
      Ruhr-Area, NRW, Germany
      Posts
      313
      Country Flag: Germany
      Do you still run the copper rad?
      And what about aluminum wheels?
      Replacing the heavy steelies with aluminum wheels should decrease your trucks nose weight a bit and improve the handling a bit as well (less unsprung weight).

    Page 1 of 9 1 2 3 4 5 6 ... LastLast




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com