1968 Camaro 9" Ford, Ridetech

[3guy]

I have about 90% decided to go with a 9" ford in my camaro. I would just like the input from others that have used the same or similar setup. I have a ridetech 4 link, so I was curious if anyone has use the ridetech weld on Brkts with the 9". Also housing centered or pinion centered?
Any other detail anyone has to offer.

[Schwartz Performance]

If you narrow it more than a couple inches from stock, you'll need to use the ridetech weld on brackets anyway.
The housing is usually 1/2" offset to the RH side.
If you're going to be autocrossing, might want to look into a full floating 9".

-Dale

[3guy]

Thanks Dale. I plan on narrowing to 58" wms. Thats a little over 2" So I can get the right backspacing on 18x12s. Also been doing some research on brakes for 9" floater

[TheJDMan]

I have a 9" Moser floater under my 68 with a G-Link 4 link which is very similar in design to the ridetech. The pinon 1/2" offset or centered is more a personal choice for packaging. My pinion is centered and I'm running a full floater with 57" WMS width with 18x12 335s. Don't try to narrow an existing 9", buy a new one in the width you want it will be cheaper in the long run. For example, a new Moser 9" floater with hubs and axles in the WMS width and pinion offset you specify sells for less than $900. There is a whole thread here on PT about floating hub rear ends.

[3guy]

I think your car is one of the ones I am basing my build on. I love the stance. I have my tubs in and the 4 link done. I have a long way to go, but its really great to get some insight.

[Schwartz Performance]

There are several brake options.
To keep an internal parking brake, Baer has a floater hub kit that is awesome, we use it all the time. Speedway mod-lite hubs have a Wilwood kit available, and a member on here and/or Lat-G has a kit that I've sold , using C6 hubs and a custom bracket for using C5/6 brakes. All those kits are more expensive than what JDMan referred to, but you get an internal parking brake. We also use the Moser full floater as standard on all of our chassis, and use a Wilwood external parking brake caliper. It works great for parking but not for emergencies.
If you need some more explanation at all, Google "full floating advantage" and our site should pop up first.
Let us know if we can help, were a dealer for all companies I mentioned.

-Dale

[3guy]

After shopping around. With budget in mind. Is the GN floating 9" Ford fom Speedway Motors an option? it looks like it meets all the criteria. Brakes,Width,31 Spline. Let me know if Im missing something.

[Z06vet]

I'm also looking at a 9" Is there any issues fitting the tabs for the upper links on the ridetech 4 link? I saw some posts where the tabs were sitting on the the pumpkin flanges rather than the axle tube. I see there are various pumpkin designs depending on who makes the housing.

[3guy]

I have thought about that also. I have seen pictures of jdmans camaro. It has the upper link welded to the left side of the housing. Maybe he could chime in.

[TheJDMan]

The Speedway GN floater is not a bad choice just be aware that the GN style floater is an industry standard used in NASCAR and in circle track racing. It is a 5 on 5" bolt pattern with 5/8" studs which may or may not be a problem when fitting wheels.

I'm also looking at a 9" Is there any issues fitting the tabs for the upper links on the ridetech 4 link? I saw some posts where the tabs were sitting on the the pumpkin flanges rather than the axle tube. I see there are various pumpkin designs depending on who makes the housing.

Just for clarification, I consider the "pumpkin" to be the removable gear assembly sometimes also called the third member which is bolted into the rear end center housing. There is only one 9" style pumpkin mount regardless of who makes the rear end housing. There are different looking 9" housings but all 9" housings have the exact same mount for the pumpkin. As for the upper mount bracket locations, if they are installed correctly they are no where near the pumpkin but may be welded to the center housing rather than the axle tube. Here is a pic from early in my build showing the rear end housing shortly after it was installed. I just noticed that that the top pic really doesn't show the upper mount brackets but the second one does. In any case the upper mounts are nowhere near the pumpkin but are welded to the center housing.

[3guy]

What I was referring to was that the mount was not on the tube like it would be on a 12 bolt. What I was wandering is if the mount being higher if that effects the geometry at all. Or did you remove material from the mount so that height was the same as the right side. I hope that was more clear.

[Z06vet]

Actually Steve, you pictured exactly what I was talking about- thanks for showing those pics. One ear is half on the axle tube and half on the bulged portion of the center section, and the other is mounted entirely on the bulged section on the other side. Is this how others are mounting the tabs as well? Steve- did you have to modify the ears in any way so they all sit at the same height? And there are lots of different styles, what i meant by this is the fab styles that are out there. Also, that does not look like a ridetech 4 link. It might not matter since they similar, but since thats what I have it'd be best to reference those installs.

[TheJDMan]

OK now I understand. If you look close at the pic, yes the driver side upper mount bracket is physically shorter, BUT both upper mounts are located exactly the same distance from the axle's horizontal center line to the center line of the link bolts and the same distance from each axle end. What is offset in the pic is the center housing which is necessary due to the design of the ring and pinion gears in the pumpkin. In fact, the G-Link kit is supplied with a welding jig which bolts to the 9" pumpkin mount bolts and locates the upper brackets in the exact position they need to be. With the jig bolted to the housing and the brackets bolted to the jig it is then a simple matter to trim both brackets until they fit the housing properly for welding into place. My 4 link is a Chassisworks G-Link but it is my understanding that the ridetech is very similar in design and I have to assume ridetech also provides a welding jig for locating their upper brackets. Don't over think this and don't measure anything from the center housing. The center housing is just a cosmetic thing and most people don't even realize that all rear end housings have an offset center section. What is critical is the location of the link bars relative to the axle center line and each end.

[Z06vet]

just making sure it was ok to weld them onto the center section. Looking at pics of a housing, it looked as if they'd need to be welded to the center section. I guess its no big deal. Thanks for your input

[3guy]

The ridetech also comes with a jig.
I have decided to go with Moser. Going to order today. I will post build thread soon.
Thanks for the help guys.