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    Page 31 of 41 FirstFirst ... 21 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 ... LastLast
    Results 601 to 620 of 808
    1. #601
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      453
      Country Flag: United States
      No sir, left it bare.
      *Jeff*
      Project Salty - 1964 4 door Malibu, beaten, neglected, red headed foster child
      Cammed LQ4 / T56 Swap Project Thread <-click to read! 😁

    2. #602
      Join Date
      Dec 2017
      Posts
      61
      Great aluminum cleaning tips! I wi have to try that as well. Seems slow over here as well Ryan.
      1951 Ford F1, 1967 RS Camaro, 1979 Firebird Formula, 1979 Trans Am/LS swap.

    3. #603
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      I made some progress on the disassembly of the 6.2 this weekend. I needed to get the timing cover off to keep digging deeper to inspect the motor. After a little persuasion I was able to break the balancer bolt free so that I could remove the timing cover.



      I picked up this puller from OEM tools and it made pulling the balancer super easy. I've wanted one for a while, so I figured I would spring for the purchase this time. I'm certain this won't be the last LS balancer I'll pull haha







      Then it was time to get rid of the VVT parts. I'll hang onto them in case I ever want to try out a VVT cam.





      Then it came to pulling the cam and it gave me a little resistance. I thought that was strange as any cam I've done slides back and forth quite easily. Well, the cam bearings are toast...





      Check out the groove that the VVT cam left in the center bearing!



      Then I decided to pull a rod bearing to see how those looked. Wow, what a difference. It's almost hard to believe the motor has almost 200k miles.



      After a bunch of research and going out to measure the bearings a few times on my engine. I figured out that I needed the Durabond CHP-23 bearings which is the second design for LS motors. I picked up a bearing installation/removal tool from Car Shop Inc. and it all should be here by the weekend. I'm going to install them myself after watching a few videos of others installing them. Wish me luck!



      I do plan to pull the rotating assembly before I install the cam bearings to ensure that I don't get any debris falling down into the rotating assembly. It will also be a good time to thoroughly degrease the entire block while I have it apart. If the rest of the bearings look as good as that one rod bearing I pulled, I'm just going to reuse them.

      I've been finding some great deals on used parts too. I picked up a lightly used vaporworx module from a guy who was going from LSA to a huge turbo and running a fuel cell in the back. He even threw in a bunch of extra wiring and a 3 bar MAP sensor.







      Then I found a guy selling a McLeod RXT twin disk clutch with less than 500 miles on it. He included a steel splined install tool too for way less than half the price of new. He blew his motor and decided to go auto.





      I sent my buddy a message that I was looking for a TR6060 so that I could swap tail housings and build my own Magnum trans. Sure enough he had one with about 60k miles on it. Same story, the guy was going auto. Good news for me haha.





      Last but not least, I found a really nice condition LSA supercharger! So pumped about this. I already bought a bunch of parts to get everything to play nicely.









      I'm trying to find a company out there that has a Magnum tail housing conversion that has a magnum mainshaft in stock. It's apparently on national backorder, so I'm going to keep calling around.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    4. #604
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      924
      Country Flag: United States
      you don't mess around, straight onto doubling your horsepower. I need friends like yours. TR6060's are so overpriced IMO, but magnums are even more overpriced lol

    5. #605
      Join Date
      Nov 2014
      Posts
      233
      Country Flag: United States
      If you don't want to mess with the tail housing conversion, I just finished my swap with a shifter from Core and custom drive shaft from Inland Empire with flange adapter from Sonnax

    6. #606
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,567
      Country Flag: United States
      You've got some nice scores there. Keep the updates coming.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    7. #607
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Dallas, TX
      Posts
      61
      Nice motor!! That thing will be fun to drive.

    8. #608
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      642
      Country Flag: United States
      You sure you want to put all that time, effort and money in and re-use 200K mile main bearings when a new set is less than 100 bucks? Main bearings aren't the place to save money, especially with a supercharger sitting on top. It's not like you have to do extra work to get to them here.

    9. #609
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks guys, I appreciate all of the feedback.

      Vimes, you are completely right. Once I pulled the mains off anyway, they were worn more than I would have liked so they are being replaced.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    10. #610
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Well I tore a little deeper into the motor, and it definitely needs main bearings. Although the rod bearings all look great, I'm just going to replace them all while I'm in there. The crank looks fantastic, so I'm not going to touch that. I'll degrease it when the time comes, but otherwise it's going to go right back in.











      Then out comes the crank. It's very grimy in there from all the oil. I'll be taking care of that soon.





      While the bearings really didn't look bad for how many miles are on them, I might as well replace them while I'm down this far. Not sure how much it would cost to have a machine shop remove and install a set of cam bearings, but I decided to just buy the tool and do it myself. I figured for $100 I will likely do this again at some point in my life. Tools are a great investment. I got this from Car Shop Inc. and I can simply buy a different mandrel for other engines. This one is specific to Gen 3/4 LS.



      I got my sons involved and my oldest helped drive out the first one while I held it. Pretty cool moment for me. He was riding a bike, and I figured he could keep the helmet on since it couldn't hurt haha.



      After cleaning the block about 12 different times with purple power, the block really cleaned up nicely. I may hit it a few more times when I get the wire brushes into the oil passages, but I'm happy with how it cleaned up on the inside. Once I clean the passages it's all ready for some new cam bearings.





      So all the parts came in to repair my Livernoise Firestorm dual pump assembly. The reason that I got it so cheap was because the fuel fitting had broken off where the GM quick connect was. After searching around online, this is actually a very common thing for the CTS-V guys. Since this is essentially a CTS-V pump, it is a very similar fix. I found a guy online who posted up a great write-up on how to fix.

      This is how it came on arrival.



      Here are all the various parts that I picked up to fix it. There are also my cam bearings, idler pulley and solid isolator for the supercharger.



      So the idea is to remove and replace the existing fuel fitting with a 90* AN6 line. What I love about this is the reduced restriction that this will create. Rather than a hard 90* turn for the fuel, this AN6 line has a nice gradual curve to it. Similar to a mandrel bent exhaust pipe vs. a hard kink. Also when I measured it with my caliper, there was a noticeably larger inner diameter for the new fitting. Less restriction on the fuel flow has to help the fuel pumps to work less, which I hope would mean longer life.





      I didn't take pictures in process, but you need to "mill" this internal fitting flat in order for the AN fitting nuts to sit flush inside. If not the barbed fitting wouldn't be long enough to reach. If that makes any sense to anyone. What I used was a flat blade wood drill bit that was 7/8", but it would have worked better with a 1". I trimmed the internal ribs down with a sharp razor blade and made sure that the nut sat flush with the inside.





      Now where my mod differs from the one done on the CTS-V site, is I decided to thread my fitting directly into the hat. I'm hoping that when I disassemble to add some sealant to the threads for a permanent fix upon reassembly.



      While I needed to fix the fuel fitting, I also needed to add a fuel pressure sensor somewhere for the vaporworx module to read properly so really this solved two problems for me. Here is the had mocked up in my fuel tank. Very pleased with how that turned out.





      Here is the pile of plastic that I "milled" out of the fuel hat for this modification.



      The only thing left to finish this modification is a new corrugated fuel tube and some clamps.



      I also picked up a few more parts for my trans conversion. Here is the little unicorn that nobody seemed to have in stock. I searched around and found a shop in PA called Hanlon Motorsports who ended up having two T56 Magnum mainshafts in stock! I bought one on the spot. Part number TUFP-7308 for anyone that wants the number.





      Then I called around to a few other places and found a company in AZ called Amp Performance who hooked me up with a new take off tailshaft housing, reluctors, and clips to finish off my conversion. I would have preferred to buy everything through Tick Performance and be done with it, but they weren't sure if they were even going to get a mainshaft in stock before the spring. It was a lot of calling around, but glad I found it all.

      Now another issue that came up is that my current car is set up for a 4th gen Camaro T56 and the T56 Magnum has a shifter that is forward 3-4". I was contemplating just buying a Magnum-F which would have been a direct replacement for my old trans, but what fun would that be haha. I found a company called Sikky who sells a cantilever style shifter that move the position 4" to the rear. After searching quick online I found a guy who had one bolted to his trans and then took it off for whatever reason. Literally like new for about half price, now that's what I call Penny Pinching! And I have to say the machine work on this shifter is outstanding. It is a shame that it will be hid under my shift boot.





      I placed my order through Summit Racing today for what will be a complete rebuild on my motor. That will officially exhaust the proceeds from the sale of my LS1/6 speed, but I feel really good about all of the deals I was able to score. There shouldn't be too many more big purchases left to get me back up and running. Once all of these parts finish coming in I have a lot of work to do. I've never rebuilt a motor or transmission so this will be a great winter education for me.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    11. #611
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      642
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice work on the fuel pump mod. That would be worthy of its own "how-to" thread.

    12. #612
      Join Date
      Mar 2015
      Location
      Baton Rouge, LA
      Posts
      106
      Country Flag: United States
      Interested in seeing how you like that Sikky shifter, I'm using a TR6060 as well and was looking at using the same setup but was unsure of what offset to go with.

    13. #613
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Vimes. Once I get that last little tube, I'll finish this all up and see how it works. I'm pretty confident that it will work as good, if not better than when it left Livernoise.

      I'll keep the thread updated and let you know how the Sikky shifter feels. So far it seems like the throw is going to be very short from my bench shifting haha.

      Made some solid progress this weekend on the engine build, and all of the parts I ordered came in. I took off the day Friday with my wife and after we spent most of the day together, she got terribly motion sick from the walk that we went on so she laid down early afternoon. I took used that opportunity along with the fantastic weather to get out the power washer and get some parts cleaned up. I only intended on using a brush kit I bought earlier in the day to clean out the oil passages in the block, but that turned into a deep clean of the whole motor. I was actually stunned by how clean the block turned out. All I used was the nylon brush from Harbor Freight engine brush kit on my drill and Purple Power. I didn't even use much pressure. Pictures speak for themselves.











      I pulled the oil passage plugs to get all the grime out. Not sure if I'm going to reuse these or not. I think new ones are cheap enough that I may just do that.



      I also blasted my TR6060 to get the clutch dust and grime off of it.



      Here's the brush kit along with the jaw pullers and snap ring plyers I bought for the Magnum conversion.





      Then right as I was finishing that up, the FedEx truck dropped off my ball hone. Wife was still on the couch, so I got right to work. None of them were bad at all, but I chose the "worst" cylinder and got right to work. I sprayed the ball hone with WD40 and ATF and started counting the strokes. The walls cleaned up really nicely at 15 strokes, so I repeated that for the other 7 cylinders. I was thinking it would take much more time than it did. Start to finish was about 45 mins. Very pleased with the results.







      I still need to do a final wipe of the cylinder walls with some lint free cloths, but I did about 2-3 initial wipes and got 95% of the grit.

      Now that the hone was done, I got out my bearing installer and pounded in the new bearings Saturday night. I was a little nervous as this is something that I've never done before. I'm not sure if this is the right way to do it, but this helped me and thought I'd pass it along. What I did was used a sharpie and drew on the mandrel to give me a guide. I first marked where the oil passages were on the block, and marked where the oil passage was on the bearing. Then centered the oil passages on the bearing and block but I found that it was hard to see my lines when the mandrel was in the block. So I lined up those marks, but then made a mark at the 6 o'clock position (remember the motor is upside down), so that it was pointing straight up. I could easily see it before I started to pound it in. Hopefully these pictures help explain better what I did.





      Another thing that is super important to remember is that for this particular bearing set there are specific locations for each bearing. They are all different and special care needs to be taken to ensure that they are in the right locations. One thing that I noticed too right out of the box was that there were burrs on all of the bearing surface edges. I wasn't comfortable with that so I took some 600 grit sandpaper and carefully deburred each of the bearings by hand. Again, not sure if this was the "proper" thing to do, but I didn't want to scuff up my new cam during the install. I took special care not to sand the actual bearing surface, just the edge so that when the cam was installed it would be a nice smooth transition.





      I should also mention the order of the bearings matters too. For example, the mandrel will not fit out the bottom in the center galley's, so if you installed say position 2 and 3 with the mandrel, you could potentially get it stuck and have to press it out again to get the mandrel out.

      I wiped everything down multiple times and then the moment of truth, I had to see if the cam would fit. It was a tease, but I installed my new Ghost cam to see what I had done. I was thrilled that the cam spun very freely with little effort by hand.



      Then the last of the parts I ordered came in. First up is the magnum tailshaft, shifter, shift rail and VSS reluctor parts. All the parts are new Magnum take off parts from when Amp was doing 4th gen tailshaft swaps. Since the Magnum-f came out, I'd imagine that finding the used Magnum tailshafts will be harder and harder to come by. I'm glad I got mine when I did.







      I had to test fit the Sikky shifter. It is just a very well built piece. From my research it should give me about a 1" setback from the original 4th gen shifter that was in my car. Time will tell though when I get it test fit.



      Last but not least is the LSA lid. This thing looks like it is almost new. I got a great buy on it and the guy couldn't find the sensors that he said came with it, so he bought some brand AC Delco sensor from Rock Auto and had them shipped to me.





      I've got a friend in town who has a ring filer he's going to let me borrow, so hopefully he finds it by next weekend and I'll start fitting up the new piston rings. All for now.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    14. #614
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      453
      Country Flag: United States
      Great job man, keep it up!!
      *Jeff*
      Project Salty - 1964 4 door Malibu, beaten, neglected, red headed foster child
      Cammed LQ4 / T56 Swap Project Thread <-click to read! 😁

    15. #615
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,584
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice rebuild you got going. Not sure if your blower has had the isolator replaced yet, but you might want to do it if it hasn't. Also reinforcing the brick is a good idea, they sometimes collapse under high boost.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, ATS, Holley EFI, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    16. #616
      Join Date
      May 2015
      Location
      Island Lake, IL
      Posts
      815
      Country Flag: United States
      Keep cranking!

    17. #617
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks guys! I'm really enjoying the rebuild on this motor. I like pushing myself and doing things that I've never done before.

      csouth, thanks for the tips. I have a solid isolator but was thinking about keeping the brick stock for now since I'll actually be running less boost than factory for now. My stock truck balancer is 7.6" and the stock LSA balancer is 7.8", so by running the truck balancer I'll actually be spinning the upper pulley slower and making less boost. I've got to draw the line somewhere, but if scope creep continues, I'll probably get a smaller upper pulley/hub kit and send the brick out to be reinforced... I'm holding off to see what my TR6060 looks like inside. If it all looks great and I can just put it all back together, I'll do the pulley and brick. If I needs anything replaced I'll have to hold off.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    18. #618
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Public Service Announcement. If you or anyone that you love and care about are suffering from project scope creep, please seek treatment immediately. Symptoms include; lightened wallet, loss of sleep, lengthened project timelines, and the dreaded jack stand syndrome...

      All joking aside, I don't have any new progress to report, but do have some new parts due to scope creep. I kept telling myself to just keep the supercharger stock, and see how it drives. Then I check out the classified ads, and find a great deal on a 2.5" smaller upper pulley for the supercharger that includes a new 8 rib belt. With all of my engine mods with the stock upper pulley I would be right on the edge of maxing out the stock 56 lb LSA injectors. Then the deal strikes again, and I found a set of 95lb injectors for a great deal...







      This is the pretty amazing thing about the internet too. I put a message out that I wanted a jig to drill my cylinder head for the LSA dowel pin rather than just breaking off the dowel like most do. It seems like more of a correct solution to me. Some guy online I've never met offered to buy an LSA gasket, build a jig, sent the jig (along with a test cylinder head and milling bits) for me to drill my head. All of this and he wouldn't accept a penny. Amazing.





      I did a quick test fit of the head on my block and the jig will need to be modified slightly. It is prefect front to rear, but needs to be up a little higher on the head for the intake to seat properly. Talking maybe 1/16" He said that the head is junk and he didn't want it back, which works out perfectly for me since I was looking for a few junk heads to practice some port cleanup on.

      My buddy had a junk Civic head that he was going to scrap, so I got that from him too.





      Since I couldn't find anyone local to me with a piston ring filer, I just bought one. I'm sure this won't be the last engine I build. I'm planning on gapping the rings to .024 upper and .026 lower, which is according to Mahle's instructions for a supercharged application. Plenty of stock LS3 guys are running factory ring gaps around .016, so I'm comfortable with the margins that I'll have when I open mine up slightly.



      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD


    19. #619
      Join Date
      Jul 2019
      Location
      Ohio
      Posts
      314
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by ryeguy2006a View Post
      After a busy week of carefully removing all of the engine components it was time to get that LS1 out of there. I pulled the motor and trans together, but not after a little drama. I was going to meet the potential buyer Sunday morning, so I had prepped the car all week here and there to be able to pull the motor Friday night after my boys went to sleep. That way I'd have plenty of time and wouldn't need to rush since I do not want to repaint anything! Well my engine hoist had other plans...

      I started trying to jack up the motor and it was leaking internally. Then I noticed this and by that time all the stores that had a new jack were all closed.



      I ran to the trusty Harbor Freight Saturday morning and was able to get the new ram swapped in just a few minutes. Then take two for Saturday afternoon and the motor came out pretty uneventful. My older son even "helped" me. I liked having him out there as we was taking tools out of my toolbox and stacking/organizing them on the floor in his own way.





      It's so oily because I had to swap oil pans. I kept the Holley 302-3.



      Now I have this strange empty feeling inside...



      And looking toward the future, I've decided to change directions slightly and sold the FAST 102. I'm not in the process of collecting parts to add some boost in the way of an LSA supercharger. I'm currently hunting for parts, so if you happen to have a supercharger and lid on the shelf and want it to go to a good home, shoot me a PM.

      I picked up this Livernoise Firestorm fuel pump assembly for a killer price, but will need to fix the fuel hat. I think I have a clever solution for that, I'll check in soon. Livernoise says it will support 800HP, so it will support way more than I'll need.





      Dual 255 LPH pumps





      I kept having my fuel tank leaking and ended up pulling the trigger on the Rick's Resto-Mod tank. It will give me room to grow if/when I do a mini-tub, corner pickups, and larger fuel capacity. That's what happens when you have too much to drink working out in the garage I guess haha. I have to say that I'm super impressed with the quality and the construction. Even though the 5th gen pumps don't need it they added some internal baffling, which will help with hard accel or decel.





      Corner pickups



      Internal baffling.



      All for now, but I'll be adding parts as I now need a transmission, intake and everything else to get this back together.

      Cheers,
      Ryan
      How many gallons is the tank?

    20. #620
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Srode, I'm pretty sure it's 18 or 19 gallon.

      I made a little progress over the long weekend. I got out on Friday night to get some work done. I decided to clean up and test fit the new main bearings that I have to see if I need either need tighter bearings or possibly sending the crank out for machine work. I started by cleaning up the main caps. There was a layer of gunk on the caps that took a long time to clean up. Purple power really helped, but it was pretty nasty work. There was also sludge on the bolts that I had to get cleaned off.

      They cleaned up nicely though.



      Here is my big box from Summit racing with everything to get this motor back together including tools, sensors, bolts gaskets.



      While reading some reviews on the Summit brand main/rod bearings I noticed that people were claiming that they were made by King. After unboxing the mains, here is the stamp on the bearing I pulled out. Has the King bearing stamp.



      Went through and installed the top bearings on all the journals being sure to clean everything as I went.



      One of the tools that I bought that is needed for the job is a torque angle gauge. Since the mains and rods both require an initial torque value followed by an angle, this gauge is necessary. Took a few tries to figure it out, but it worked great after I got the hang of it.



      I put a short piece of plastigauge on all the crank journals and proceeded to torque all 5 main caps.



      Then removed them one by one and checked bearing clearances. I am happy to report that they are all right within specs. The rule of thumb for stock motors is .00075-.001 per 1" of journal. All LS motors gen3/4 have a 2.100", which would mean the range is .001575 - 0.0021. Mine all measured according to the plastigauge between .0015-.002. I'm a happy camper. I took the picture next to the wrong size, but 1-4 caps measured right at .0015 and the 5th measured at .002. I'm not going to overthink it since they are all within specs. keep in mind that plastigauge has a +/-.0005 margin, but even with that I'm in the right zone.



      I called it a night after the bearings all checked out. I want to get the rods all checked next, then once they all check out I can file fit the top and second rings. I'm going to follow with the instructions I found online from Mahle and file them to .024 top and .028 second ring.

      I've also heard people mention that higher mileage motors are "pre-gapped" for boost. While that may be true they are enlarged, I thought I would measure mine just to get an understanding of how true this is. My motor had just shy of 200k miles before I disassembled it. I pulled the top ring off of my motor and it measured at .020 and from everything I gather the stock rings were gapped at .016. So take that for what it is, but there is a little truth to that notion. I want to check the second ring and a few of the other pistons to see if they are consistent.

      Thanks,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

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