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    1. #661
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      I've been continuing to make progress toward getting this motor installed. I have been jumping around, but I wanted to make sure that I've got everything test fit and ready so I only have to install the motor and trans once.

      I started by mocking up the motor and engine harness. Holley gives a lot of extra wiring length, so I'm working on cleaning that all up. I'll wrap it up inside of the cabin, but outside it fits much tighter and cleaner. I also need to add a few wires for the Flex Fuel Sensor and MAC valve. Another little detail is that I had to re-drill the coil brackets to lower them by about 1" so that they clear the fuel rails. I have some really nice mesh wire wrap that I'll finish it all up in. Should look very clean and tidy when I'm done.





      I mentioned that I'll be wiring up a MAC Valve, and what I'm going to try and do is use it as a makeshift boost control valve. There are a few people online who have been playing with the Terminator software to use this valve to control boost in certain situations. My intentions would be to turn down the boost while I break in the motor, but it could be used for traction control, valet mode, and etc. Something for me to play with down the road.



      I also picked up a cheap LS1 Fbody alternator to try in the low mount position and it wasn't any better than the truck, so I'm back to square one.





      I bought these a long time ago, and was looking forward to installing them ever since. With all of the miles on the stock rockers and the added lift from the cam, I opted to go with brass trunnions. I went with the CHE Trunnions for two reasons. I really liked how these had a floating design rather than a pressed in fixed bushing, and secondly by default of their construction the ease of installation. Because they are a floating design it doesn't require any press to install. They all just slip together. Overall it took me about an hour to assemble and lube them all up. Very impressed with the quality here and would recommend them highly.





      After I installed the rockers, I measured for pushrods and came up between a 7.375 and 7.400, so I opted to use the 7.400 that I already have. If they end up being too tight and give that sewing machine sound, I'll swap them out for the looser of the two. What was interesting is that when I went to rotate the motor to check for pushrod length on a few different rockers, the motor was frozen. It didn't want to move at all. Now, I have doublechecked everything along the way so I was terrified I screwed something up. I assumed the worst, but it didn't make sense as nothing has changed that I could think of. So ended up pulling apart the front of the engine and found the culprit... oil pump. When I had disassembled to shim, I must have flipped the drive around and it clamped tight. I swore I was careful about orientation, but somehow got flipped 180*. After I corrected that, everything turned freely. While I was in there, I took the opportunity to document my timing marks as I didn't get a picture before. Re-torqued and reinstalled everything.



      I then moved onto the clutch master cylinder swap. Last season I wasn't happy with how stiff the pedal was on my car. After researching I found out that Tick uses a 7/8" bore Tilton which by nature is more stiff, because the 3/4" is what came stock. So because I'm going to run a McCleod RXT which will be stiffer than the LS7, I opted to swap those out now. Nice thing about having the parts already fit, is it was a simple remove and reinstall exercise.



      I got a crank pinning kit from LSXInnovations and the first one was "lost" in the mail, so they sent me another one. Well the replacement came one day and the "lost" one showed up the next day. I've contacted them to return one, so I'll see what they say.



      I cleaned up the low mileage clutch (500 miles) that I bought a while ago and followed the installation instructions per their specs. All went very smoothly. The steel install tool worked so much better than the plastic ones. The trans slid right together.





      Then I bent up and installed the fluid pump lines. Unfortunately the driver's side wouldn't fit the tunnel, so I need to make some changes to how it's routed. I'll end up using the stock line that came with the trans and a compression fitting so it will be a quick fix. But I was a little bummed since I liked how clean it was. Oh well.





      Then after about an hour of messing around to carefully not hit anything, the motor/trans are installed! Overall the fitment is very similar since the drivetrain that it replaced was almost identical. I was worried that the slightly larger TR6060 bellhousing would be an issue, but it fit with room to spare. That's a huge relief. Another huge relief is that the stock Tremec shifter fits right in almost the same spot as my T56 Fbody trans. Overall a huge win!!





      I'm hoping that the rest goes pretty smoothly since I'll be bolting on many pieces that were already fit to the car like the exhaust. I think I can make a slight modification to a truck alternator and it will work, but I need to get one in my hands. Another detail that I decided to do while I'm upgrading everything else was to upgrade from Terminator X to X Max for DBW. I was looking around at my throttle body options and considering a Nick Williams but they are $400 bucks. After looking around I was able to upgrade to Terminator X Max (Thanks MCB), sell my Terminator X base (Thanks Jonathan) and buy a pedal/throttlebody for about the same price. Should give me more control over when safeties can be activated and a few other options. So I'll need to make a few changes to accommodate that, but will be worth it in the end.

      Thanks,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    2. #662
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Waleska Ga.
      Posts
      2,710
      Country Flag: United States
      Making progress!
      David Sloan

      If you’re suggesting sending men with weapons of war to take my weapons of war,then I’m fairly certain that’s what’s called an act of war… and the definition of tyranny.which coincidentally is the reason for the second amendment to begin with!


      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ght=fun+camaro

      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...lcamino-build!

    3. #663
      Join Date
      Dec 2017
      Posts
      61
      This is totally awesome! Looks killer man! I would be lost, you see how I fumbled through my basic LS swap 😀
      1951 Ford F1, 1967 RS Camaro, 1979 Firebird Formula, 1979 Trans Am/LS swap.

    4. #664
      Join Date
      Jul 2017
      Location
      Island Lake, IL
      Posts
      131
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by FormTA View Post
      This is totally awesome! Looks killer man! I would be lost, you see how I fumbled through my basic LS swap 😀

      You’ll get it figured out. The TAC crowd can always give you pointers.

    5. #665
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Luke, you did a great job on that LS swap. I think it may be time to start thinking about the 67 RS now

      I made some more progress over the weekend. I decided to change gears and start thinking about my fuel system. I got the tank installed and mocked up so that I could cut an access hole in the trunk. I cringed a little before I made the cut, but it was worth it to be able to pop the fuel pump in and out so easily.





      I need to get the hammer and dolly out to flatten out some of the panels. I'll also likely need to stitch weld some of the seams to make a flat spot to mount the access door. My pan is to make it look like semi-factory when it's done.



      Mocked up and cut my power steering lines. The fittings and line are Russell Power Flex and were super easy to make. Made for a nice clean routing.



      Then I turned my attention to my fuel tank. I bought the fuel sender from Rick's, but it ended up being pushed out several times on backorder, so I decided to make my own. I had a few leftover parts from another attempt I had at making a fuel sender in my last tank and built my own. I had a spare fuel sender that came with another fuel pump housing that I cannibalized the mounting point from. It worked out really well and works great.







      The finished product installed in the tank. It's ugly, but works flawlessly.





      I also made the change recently and decided to go with a Terminator X Max for the DBW function. I found a good buddy who wanted my Terminator X ECU and he bought that. Win win for both of us. I bought a gold blade LS3 throttlebody and a C6 pedal, just waiting for the new ECU to come in before I can test to make sure that they all work properly together.



      I went back and forth on the few options that I have for running a low mount alternator in f-body location, but at the Vette spacing to line up with my CTS-V accessories. The stock truck 105 Amp alternator that I have would work other than the battery stud points right at the frame. After a failed attempt at trying to reclock the alternator, I thought maybe I could bend the stud to fit and get a new alternator. While this worked, it was not ideal. I found out that the Powermaster 484831 alternator has a side post stud, same small case CS130 and would be located roughly in the same spot that my bent stud was and it is a 165 Amp unit. But after mulling it over for a few days I decided against that because I'm just not a big fan of where the stud comes out.



      That led me to think outside of the box. I found out that the 14+ Silverado/Sierra alternators are all a side post models, directly bolt into the location I need, are roughly the same size if not a bit smaller and come in 150 or 170 Amp models. Only downside is that they are controlled by pwm+ and will not function properly without the proper signal. I found a cheap 170 Amp unit on eBay this morning and will give this a try. Plus I should be able to program an output in X Max to drive the alternator and can use it to ramp up based on load. Keeping my fingers crossed that it fits because this would solve all of my alternator issues.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    6. #666
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Posts
      453
      Country Flag: United States
      I know you're probably wanting a simple bolt in solution, but if you can't get the terminator to run the silvy alternator, you could take it to your local alternator/stator/electric motor repair place. Usually filled with white haired gruff guys that just grunt when you ask them a question you think is undoable. Have had many tractor generators, pool pumps, etc rebuilt over the years, I'm sure they could whip something up for you.
      *Jeff*
      Project Salty - 1964 4 door Malibu, beaten, neglected, red headed foster child
      Cammed LQ4 / T56 Swap Project Thread <-click to read! 😁

    7. #667
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      475
      If you cant figure out how to make the Holley control the alternator, look at Tick Performance. They have a stand alone pwm controller. If not, Powermaster has a really good selection of different styles of alternators that wont break the bank.
      1970 VW Bug - Just your average mid engine Bug
      Track toy - 06 Evo - E85 and lots of boost
      Newest track toy - 2021 Supra

    8. #668
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks guys. The first step for me will be confirming that the alternator physically fits in that location. If Holley control doesn't work like I want, the other option will be to use one of those cheap pwm from Amazon/eBay. I looked it up and that Tick module is also a good option. The alternator should be here tomorrow so I'll confirm fitment and go from there.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    9. #669
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      The warmer weather has come early this year and I'm now chomping at the bit to get the motor back together. The 14+ Alternator came in pretty quickly and I couldn't wait to test fit it, but unfortunately the dimensions that I found online weren't accurate and it is just a little too big for the low mount position. I was able to get it installed, but it meant shimming the bracket .100" away from the block and would need to lower the sway bar mount just to get it fit. Dealbreaker, but I'll save this alternator for another project. I had some parts sell unexpectedly so I bought the Powermaster alternator this morning that has the CS130D case which I know fits, is 165 Amps, and has a side post. Here's a picture of just how close the 14+ alternator was.



      Moving on I had to remove the snout of the supercharger in order to replace the stock spring isolator with the revised solid isolator from Eaton. Found a little wear from the spring on the shaft, but luckily there isn't anything that rides on that part of the shaft so it won't affect anything. PSA to all LSA owners, Replace your spring isolators.





      While that was off I also wanted to swap out the stock 2.95" pulley for the Griptech 2.50" pulley and ZPE hub. Wow that stock pulley was a PITA to remove. I ended up breaking the Harbor Freight 3 Jaw puller, but was successful with my bearing puller and impact gun.







      My father in law let me stop over and borrow his shop press and we were able to get the new hub pressed on.







      Then after test fitting the LS3 Throttlebody, I realized that on the driver's side of the opening, there was a spot that rose up slightly and after looking at other ported snouts, they smoothed this out to give a straighter shot into the intake. My buddy let me borrow his porting tools and I got to work. Here is the before doing my best to show the restriction. The right side of the picture is what I'm talking about.





      Here is where I roughed it in being very careful to keep a light touch and long sweeping cuts.





      Then I used some sanding drums that I had starting with 80 grit and finished with 100 grit. I definitely thing it's an improvement, but I'm sure it was minimal if any improvement. I washed it out multiple times to get all the grit out.









      Changing directions I also was able to get my trans crossmember modified since the TR6060 Hybrid was a little longer. Ended up needing to move it back about 1.25", but was at the same height.





      I was using my dad's welder since he has a 211 Miller, whereas mine is a smaller 135. Glad I did because it gave excellent penetration. I didn't get the hang of his welder until the other side where I got all the settings perfect. Welds were a little hot at first, so I had to keep dialing it back. I could definitely get used to that welder for sure.





      I also mocked up my engine accessories to make sure there wasn't any clearance issues anywhere. Luckily it all fit just fine, but wanted to be sure.



      Now that the crossmember is finished, I'll be able to bolt up the trans for good and get my measurements for the driveshaft. One last thing though before I can do that is swapping out the differential yoke. I have a pretty bad leak there so I figured while I was addressing that I might as well upgrade to a 1350 yoke to match the trans and driveshaft I'll order. I bought this cool tool that will hold the yoke which will come in handy when I torque the new yoke down.



      I'm hoping to swap the yoke this week and get some measurements for the driveshaft sent out so that can be made. There is a lead time so I want that to be in process while I work on everything else. I need to button up the fuel pump door in the trunk next, and start bolting parts back onto the car. Also hoping to get the supercharger back together soon and test fitting it soon.

      Thanks,
      ​​​​​​​Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    10. #670
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      924
      Country Flag: United States
      you're a busy man, putting in the hard yards for those HPs, I hope you get to enjoy it soon

    11. #671
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      I've been keeping busy and making a little bit of progress here and there. I got out into the garage last night and had something to show for it. This is partially an upgrade and partially maintenance. I've had a pinion leak since I build the rear end, but am now addressing that. Apparently you are supposed to add some sealant to the splines on the yoke, not just the nut. Lesson learned. Anyway, it was a great excuse to upgrade to a 1350 yoke while I had to pull the old yoke anyway. Hopefully I can get this back together soon, but I'm waiting on the correct pinion seal.



      I should have just gotten the Powermaster 484831 from the beginning since I was sure that it would fit my needs. Failed attempt at using the 14+ Silverado alternator, but at least I tried right?? Anyway, this Powermaster unit checks all the boxes; 165 Amp, side post, and compact enough to fit where I needed it.









      Again, I'm a sucker for a good deal. Picked up these Holley Tall Valve covers for half of retail that are brand new. They really serve two purposes for me; one I don't have to clean up my old scrubby ones, and two it moves the coils down so it doesn't interfere with the LSA fuel rails. And I'll add a third, they really look great. I'm either painting them Chevy orange or Torch Red to match the car. Haven't decided.



      I also picked up a used Elite Engineering E2 Catch can with all the hoses and one way valve. Looks new, and helps with forced induction from what I understand. I'm going to build a mount off of the supercharger tensioner to keep it out of the way and easy to access. Unfortunately the head mount bracket won't work.





      Then the moment that I've been waiting for for a very long time. It's only mocked up at this point to check for interference, but it really changes the look of the engine bay.







      My cowl hood bumps up in the middle so this should clear no problem.





      This picture is straight across the two fender top body lines.



      I'm so pumped about hearing this thing run! Ordered a few more parts and thankfully there is only one more large purchase and a few smaller ones before I can call it done.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    12. #672
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Now that the motor and components are all fitting together, I wanted to focus on the systems that I'm changing up and getting them ready to fire up the motor. One thing that I wanted to do is adding a fuel door in the event that I ever needed to change out my fuel pump assembly and/or upgrade the pumps. It will make the job soo much easier/quicker in the future. I wanted to make it sort of look like it could have come this way so I wanted to blend in the bead rolls. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

      Here's the starting point where I hacked it away.



      I made some pie cuts on the bead rolls then used a hammer and dolly to flatten them out. One side popped up and the other side popped down. Once it was all flat, I used my mig to weld it back together then ground it all flush with a flap disk.



      I used some sprayed the door with etch primer, seam sealed the bottom side, then topped it off with some satin black to blend it in with the existing trunk. Once I get the truck cleaned out, I'll go back and spray it over with some trunk splatter paint to give it a more original look.







      Tank is installed for good now.



      I talked with Carl at vaporworx and ordered some parts to finish up the install of the PressureWorx kit. If I had bought new I would have had all the terminals and wiring, but since I got it second hand, I needed a few of the terminals. He was super helpful and got back to me right away. Excellent customer service. It's also worth pointing out one reason why I'm so glad that I upgraded to the pwm, since I found some previous work that wasn't my best. I don't remember the soldering being this bad, but check out the corrosion. I believe I did this about 3 years ago, so it happened pretty quickly. This most certainly would have failed at some point in the near future. It pulled apart when I gave it a little tug. Per Carl's (and Andrew's) recommendation, I'll be crimping my connections going forward.



      As many have likely found out, the backorder on the Terminator X Max kits is pretty extensive with Holley directly. I waited for about a month and in the end just decided to stick with a cable throttlebody, rather than going DBW right now. Maybe when they are back in stock this fall I'll try again. For now I shopped around and found a great deal on a used Nick Williams 92mm. Came with the sensors too which is a big bonus. It fit great, and just barely cleared the PS reservoir. I'm going to make my own version of the Motionworks DBC bracket using a truck cable holder that I've had for a while and good news is my old throttle cable fits with room to spare. WIN.





      Moving back to my yoke swap on the rear differential, I started doing some research on the correct seal. I found out that all of the one's that you get at the parts stores and RockAuto are actually meant for truck 12 bolts. Some people used a small 1/8" shim or don't fully tap in the seal to get the right depth. Then I found out that there is one company that does make the correct seal, and it's available at Summit Racing. Ratech RAT-6109 for those interested. This will allow the seal to sit closer to the seal mating surface on the yoke since it sticks out farther.



      Timkin vs Ratech.





      This along with silicone on the yoke splines should fix my leaky differential. Then more exciting news is my driveshaft from PEM racing came in. I'm very impressed with the quality and how quickly it shipped to me. This is their Drag Racing 3.5" .125" wall driveshaft with 1350 ends and Spicer solid U-joints included. They had the best price by far, and it came with free shipping! I ended up measuring 42" with my combination, but if you are replicating this build measure yours first. The guy I emailed there said that this combo should be good for around 750+HP, so I should be well under this figure.



      Installed my Sonnax 1350 ujoint and test fit everything. Looks like I measured spot on with about 7/8" of stick out of the trans.



      I ran out of time to get the yoke reinstalled, but the new seal is in. I'll need to torque it and then check the rotational drag with a torque wrench. Then I can button up the driveline and test fit the exhaust. I'm hoping that my mufflers won't be too close, but if not I may have to modify them or possibly replace.

      I'm hoping to get out in the garage tonight and get a lot of work done.

      Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    13. #673
      Join Date
      Jul 2018
      Posts
      433
      enjoying following along, thanks for the updates

    14. #674
      Join Date
      Aug 2015
      Location
      charlotte
      Posts
      924
      Country Flag: United States
      I started using 'heat shrink solder tubes' for my wiring in the last year and I haven't turned back. check them out if you haven't already

    15. #675
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      642
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by slimjim View Post
      I started using 'heat shrink solder tubes' for my wiring in the last year and I haven't turned back. check them out if you haven't already
      Those are really nice! Thanks for posting that up. When I run out of my current soldering rings and heat shrink I'll give those a try. The way I do it now gets a solid connection and a good, tight waterproof seal but it takes time to do each wire pair. I also don't have too much of my lead solder left and they aren't making it anymore. I still have solder from back when Radio Shack was a component store.

    16. #676
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by slimjim View Post
      I started using 'heat shrink solder tubes' for my wiring in the last year and I haven't turned back. check them out if you haven't already
      Those are really slick! I'll have to pick up a set of them to try out.


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    17. #677
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      2,695
      Country Flag: United States
      I've been working outside getting the house around for the early spring we are having. It's been nice enough for the last 3 weeks that I could have been driving my car which is extremely rare in NY. I've been plugging away with little projects here and there and have enough content for an update. After reading about all the problems that guys were having with the stock Tremec shifters leaking, I kept my eye out for a good used one and found a great deal on a barely used Hurst shifter. It didn't come with the shifter adapter, but I made one since Holley wanted $94 plus shipping for the little adapter. The shifter feel is much tighter compared to the stock Tremec. I measured before and after since I had the stock one installed at the time. The throw was about 5" from 3rd to 4th with the stock shifter, and 3.25" with the Hurst. This shifter takes out the slop and makes for a more firm shift.



      What I started with





      Finished product, and also got the boot fit up nicer than I had it last fall.



      I have also been working on a DBC throttle bracket for the last few weeks here and there. I finished it up last night and am very happy with how it turned out. 1/8" aluminum plate and a 02ish truck throttle cable bracket that I trimmed the 3rd mount off of. I used a piece of cardboard, then a thin piece of aluminum, then the final piece.





      Final product. It works really well and I also have room if I decide to run a cruise control module.



      I have also been working on prepping the supercharger for the final install. Now that I confirmed that the snout needed no further porting, I replaced the spring isolator with an Eaton solid unit then silicone'd it all back together with Loctite 598. Note that this is what is supposed to be used, not just any black/gray silicone.







      I also bought some aluminum online and made up some plates to reinforce my intercooler brick. I sent those out to be welded and should have them back by the weekend.



      Then externally I had to make a clearance for the fuel fitting off of my fuel rail. I added a fuel pressure adapter so that I can put a regular gauge on there in the event I needed another spot to troubleshoot my fuel pressure. At the time I had lost my fitting, but I used this -6AN fitting I had to mock it up. I was positive that one of my boys took it and put it in a drawer or bucket or something. I'm also planning to make a bracket to mount the fill port for the supercharger coolant off of those two holes. Will make for a nice simple bracket to mount that fill port.





      Well it wasn't the kids that lost it...



      I also starting on my wiring. Carl from vaporworx recommended 8ga wire from the battery directly to the pressureworx module, so I'll do just that. I also routed the MAP wires along with the fuel pump wires so that I can utilize the boost referenced feature. Not much to show, but this big mess. I'm glad that I went with Carl's recommendation of 25' of wire because I needed all but about 3'. I was planning on buying 15', but I would have been way short.





      I also had a few parts come in from RockAuto. New knock sensors and a really nice molded hose for my booster. Both were really cheap. That molded hose will work perfectly and routes so cleanly around the supercharger. It's the part number for a ZL1 Camaro, but could be the same for a CTS-V. It needs to be modified slightly, but I'll grab a picture when it's installed.





      Cheers,
      ​​​​​​​Ryan


      1955 Nomad project LC9, 4L80e, C5 brakes, Vision wheels
      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid and etc SOLD
      1976 T/A LS1 6 Speed, and etc. SOLD

    18. #678
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,971
      Country Flag: United States
      Make sure the coil sub harnesses are oriented in the correct way.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    19. #679
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,567
      Country Flag: United States
      You've had a busy couple of weeks, nice progress. Doesn't it figure the fitting fell where you would look there and never realize that was it.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    20. #680
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Waleska Ga.
      Posts
      2,710
      Country Flag: United States
      Looking good!
      Our weather has been good to so I have been outside working on the yard and house! Keep the wife happy everybody’s happy!
      Thanks for sharing!

      David Sloan

      If you’re suggesting sending men with weapons of war to take my weapons of war,then I’m fairly certain that’s what’s called an act of war… and the definition of tyranny.which coincidentally is the reason for the second amendment to begin with!


      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ght=fun+camaro

      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...lcamino-build!


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