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    Page 35 of 36 FirstFirst ... 25 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 LastLast
    Results 681 to 700 of 708
    1. #681
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,978
      Country Flag: United States
      I made a bunch of progress this weekend and I officially have reached the end of the parts buying stage... well maybe more tires, but you get the idea. Earlier in the week I broke broke down and finally picked up a bigger torque wrench. I've needed one that goes over the 150 lb ft unit that I have a few times now and this seemed like a good time since I had to torque my crank bolt. Before I torqued it though I wanted to pin the crank which as super easy with the kit from LSX Innovations.



      I only ordered the torque wrench, but when I looked in my box there was also an extension set. Funny because I've been meaning to buy another 1/2" extension. Thanks AutoZone!



      I picked up another crank holding fixture that bolts in place of the starter because surprise, the overseas one that I bought didn't even come close to fitting. I got the one from MAF and it was a perfect fit. After I bolted it in position I torqued the crank bolt per the instructions. Now can I just say that 235 lb ft is a lot of torque! Glad that's over.



      Next up was making a bracket to hold my reservoir/ fill cap. For a little bracket like that, it looks simple, but took me a while to get it just right. It sits about an inch higher than the highest part of the brick so it should do it's job to purge all the air out of the system. I want to replace those bolts with some button head or allen socket bolts.



      Here is the fuel pressure tester schrader valve I added. Could come in handy someday.



      I've been holding off on installing anything on this side of the motor until I got the balancer torqued so I had clear access to the starter area. Installed my eBay find LS3 starter and was anxious to know if it worked. So I installed it, tested the starter solenoid and it easily bumped the motor over. Such a tease...



      I also found an nice place to mount my fuel pump controller. Nice and out of the way, on this little mounting plate I made. I have the wires from the battery and crimped the terminals and it's installed on the controller now. Just need to crimp the battery side and then from the controller to the fuel pump itself. Shouldn't be long now and I can test fire the fuel pump and controller. Before I test it though I also need to make a bracket to add the flex fuel sensor inline.





      Not sure why I kept putting it off, but I made my fuel crossover too. I used all Racetronix fittings and lines and they installed very easily. Very pleased with them.



      I have been working on and off for about 2 weeks trying to figure out the best place to install my catch can. I was hoping to place it roughly in the same spot as the cylinder head mount, but the 8 rib tensioner occupied one of the mounting holes. What I was going to do is shave off 1/4" from the backside of the bracket and then it would bolt in place. Then my father in law came over and said why don't you find a way to maybe bolt it to the tensioner bracket. Then a lightbulb went off and I came up with this pretty clever idea. Since the bolt hole that holds the tensioner on is tapped all the way through and is completely open on the backside, I installed a longer bolt through it and it created a stud that I could use on the backside. Then all I had to do was shorten the bracket that came with it and drill/tap one hole on the bracket. Doesn't harm the integrity of the bracket, creates a nice spot to mount the can low and gives easy access to it for service. Super happy with that install.

      Took way more time that I wanted, but I'm super happy with the results. The lines are backwards incase someone notices. I'll need to switch them before I fire up the motor.





      Then my last parts showed up. I had a buddy from Florida help me out and welded my brick for me. Shipped it there and back safely so that made me happy. Brian did a great job, thanks again man! For those that don't know, the stock intercooler bricks can collapse from boost even under stock psi. So it's really important to reinforce them, but especially if you overdrive the supercharger like I did.





      Then the PLM heat exchanger came in. I've seen a few guys run this in a first gen Camaro one of which was an RS so I know it fits well. I'm going to copy what the RS guy did so I already know how I'm going to mount it. Just need to make a bracket.



      I also opted to use the GM Synchromesh which is supposed to be the best for the TR6060 and T56 Magnum's.



      Now that the intercooler brick was here I didn't waste any time and got that installed Friday night. Then I kept grabbing parts off my bench and before I knew it, the motor was completely assembled and final torqued.





      I'm getting so excited now! My punch list is getting very short and I'm really down to finishing some wiring for the ECU/Fuel pump, bolting my exhaust back on, fill/top off all fluids, prime the motor and send it! I'm hoping to get a few nights in the garage this week and turn the key next weekend.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    2. #682
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,978
      Country Flag: United States
      I had to pull my tank one last time since I forgot to add a grounding wire to the fuel tank. I got that installed and added a metri-pack connector to for the fuel level sensor so that I can pull the tank quickly if needed. I added a ground wire from from the main battery wire feed for the fuel pump.



      Got the tank back in and all the connections made. So glad that I added that trap door.



      8 ga wire that splits into the two feeds for the fuel pump. Should be minimal voltage drop from the battery.



      The fuel pump module is all done and installed. I'm waiting on some connectors so I still need to hook up the MAP - and MAP signal wires, as well as looming the wiring. But as is, it will control the fuel pump but without those wires it won't be boost referenced.



      Before I loom up the engine wiring I wanted to hook everything up to confirm that I don't have any wiring or sensor issues. All the wiring, headers, and coils are now installed on the car. I do need to make a few little clearance dents for the plug wires and access to the plugs. I also bought a longer throttle cable so that I can route it a little more neatly than how it is currently. Otherwise the motor is pretty much in the final stage of assembly.





      Hopefully this is helpful for someone out there, but these are the belts I used for the 2.5" upper pulley and the stock CTS-V accessories with the ICT low mount Alternator.



      I then moved my attention to the heat exchanger. This was the largest one that I could find that would work with everything in the stock location. I had considered getting a larger exchanger and having some fittings welded to it, but that didn't work out. It would physically fit in the space, but with the hood latch and center brace installed it was clear I would need some major modifications. This exchanger is still much larger than the stock CTS-V and with the upgraded circulation pump, I should be ok. I'll keep an eye on my IAT's once I get the car up and running.









      I'm having a little trouble figuring out how I want to mount my coolant circulation pump in order to maximize the flow while keeping it accessible for servicing. I need to get the exchanger final mounted before I can find a final mounting spot. I also found out recently that the pump actually can be run off of PWM. Pin A is ground, B not used, C is PWM+ signal, and D is 12v Ignition. Most people tie the C and D pins together which makes the pump run at 100% duty cycle. My thought is that I can use Holley to control the circulation and use IAT's as my trigger to increase the duty cycle. For now I'm going to wire it for the pump to run 100% because I just want to get the car up and running right now, but this is a project for later this summer I think. I still need to do more research since Holley only has a PWM- output, so getting the PWM- signal to PWM+ is my homework.

      If I can get out into the garage tonight I'm pretty sure that I can start the car tomorrow!


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    3. #683
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      453
      Just a for your info - you got your 6 rib belt routed wrong. Goes from the crank to the idler pulley, down around the alt and then up and around the PS pump. You will have some belt slip with it as is since its barely riding on the balancer.

      Keep up the progress though!
      1970 VW Bug - Just your average mid engine Bug
      Track toy - 06 Evo - E85 and lots of boost
      Newest track toy - 2021 Supra

    4. #684
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,978
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for catching that!! It's the little things that get you... Ordering a new belt now.


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    5. #685
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      350
      Country Flag: United States
      Probably not a concern right this minute on a new build, but you're going to want a rubber seal around that gas tank hatch. Otherwise anything under the car can find its way into the car's interior. Nice though, I wish all cars came with a little hatch right over the fuel pump.

    6. #686
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      SoCal
      Posts
      453
      Quote Originally Posted by ryeguy2006a View Post
      Thanks for catching that!! It's the little things that get you... Ordering a new belt now.
      No problem! Can't tell you how many of my customers have done the same. You definitely aren't the first.

      Don't quote me on this but I think you need a 81.5" belt. I can double check on Monday if you need me to.

      Edit - no I think its a 82.5 since you are using the actual lsa tensioner and f body alt.
      1970 VW Bug - Just your average mid engine Bug
      Track toy - 06 Evo - E85 and lots of boost
      Newest track toy - 2021 Supra

    7. #687
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,391
      Country Flag: United States
      How thick were the pieces you put on the brick? It’s looking good!
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    8. #688
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,978
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Vimes. I was planning on using something to seal it all up after I'm confident the fuel system is fully up and running. Thanks for the idea.

      Bugzilla, I tried re-routing it and my current 82.5" belt was quite a bit short. Stock CTS-V is 85.5", but I think I'll need more like an 84.5". Really appreciate you catching that.

      Wayne, those plates are 1/8" thick. I used a 2.5" x 12" plate and it was the perfect amount for reinforcing the ends. If you are doing a ZL1 lid, you'd only need a 2" x 12" piece.


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    9. #689
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,978
      Country Flag: United States
      Close but no cigar... I worked from 8 - 2am Friday night and didn't quite get it all finished up. I probably could have gotten it to the point of firing this weekend if I chose to not install the flex fuel sensor now. I went back and forth because I don't "need" it, but it's something I eventually want to play with. It would be a huge PITA to do it when the hood is back on so I bit the bullet.

      I wanted to focus on getting the fuel system finished up, so the flex fuel sensor was next up on that list. Like always, I mocked it up with cardboard first, then used my final material. Version 1.0 I was planning on using two small bolts to hold on the bracket, but after getting it fit up in there, I realized that I could use one of the mounting studs off of the brake booster and it would give me more clearance around everything.







      The fuel lines are always a discussion, but I've been very happy with using the Nylon fuel lines and Dorman fittings. Here's how I've always done them and have had great success. Caulk gun method requires you to use a two post caulk gun and a brake flare tool. It really couldn't be any easier. If it's your first time doing it, I'd suggest using a practice piece to make sure you have the right clamping force and pressure. Position the fuel line in the brake flare tool, use the fitting to measure the correct depth so you can have the right amount of stick out, make sure the line and fitting are both centered in the caulk gun, then slowly press the fitting in. I pressed mine in dry, but you could also use a window cleaner or something that would evaporate to make the press a little easier. If you get the right amount of clamping pressure there is minimal amount of marks left by the brake flare tool. I used a little heat to form the tighter bends around the wiper motor and it was a perfect fit! Very happy with the install.







      Fuel system is now fully plumbed and wired up. I bought 10 gallons of fresh 93 octane so I'll fill the tank and then I can check for leaks. Now I can move onto the heat exchanger install. I welded a few flange nuts to the core support and drilled a few holes into the aluminum angle iron to hold it to the car. Then after shuffling the heat exchanger around side to side, I found the best position for functionality and aesthetics. I wanted it both centered in the grill, and also not interfere with the RS headlight doors or the center mount. Once I was happy I drilled the holes for the HX mounts.



      The HX will be leaned back about 1/2" in, but for the picture was leaned forward.



      Lower mounts, done. Now onto the upper mounts. After scratching my head and looking for pieces of metal for inspiration I found what I needed. Sorry honey, we don't need this shelf anymore. Haha. Hot rodding at it's finest. These little brackets were perfect for what I needed. I'm so happy with the way that they turned out. I literally just put a few bends in them and tweaked slightly and they fit like it was made for this application. The two HX mounting holes on each bracket were perfectly spaced, just needed to be slightly drilled out. I had targeted a hole on the upper core support and the hole on the bracket lined up and was centered perfectly!







      I figured that I got lucky on the first one and it would take more effort to mirror the second one. The car gods were looking out for me and I matched the same angle as the passenger side and it fit identical to the other side!! I was so shocked that it worked out that nicely for me. That had to be one of the easiest jobs I've done on this car.







      Then I reinstalled the radiator. I love bolting on existing parts. A few bolts and one wiring connector. Lower hose was the same, but I'll need a new upper to be made/bought.





      I also had to figure out what to do with the booster hose. The ZL1 hose I bought is 1/2", but the booster fitting I have is 3/8". After looking around my garage I found a cap that just happened to have the same OD as the ID of the 1/2" hose. So I cut the end off of it and installed the sleeve. The hose also was a two piece design with a coupler in the middle. So shortened center of the hose and put it all back together. Couldn't ask for better fitment.





      I was able to reuse my metal tube for the CAI by shortening it by ~5" and tweaked the mount slightly and it worked like it did with my LS1. I just had to use the 45 degree coupler vs the 90 degree I used before. I think the filter on it now is 6" which could be a restriction so I'm planning to eventually by a 8" or 9" Green Filter. But for now I want to get the car up and running. Easy change later.





      I also was playing around with the wiring a bit to see what all needed to be addressed. I wanted to get everything hooked up to confirm that it all functions before I tuck it all up and make it tidy. I've been there before where there is a problem and you have to undo the nice clean work... I built my own 2 pin to 4 pin CAN adapter for my Holley harness, but I built mine from a splitter I bought on eBay. Nicely built splitter, almost a shame to cut it up. I needed the splitter though since I'll be using both my 3.5" touchscreen, USB cable and the Dakota Digital CAN signal for the gauges.



      Looks like a terrible mess, but in reality is very close to being done.



      I was so happy when I fit my exhaust up that it will clear my new driveshaft. I was thinking I may have to modify it, but so glad I don't have to. I'm really down to some really basic things before I can get fire up the car. Biggest thing is where I want to mount the HX pump and then routing the coolant lines. After that I need to button up some wiring, fill all fluids, bleed my clutch, build/buy a new upper radiator hose, prime the oil pump, and turn the key. I'll plug away at these things this week and maybe I'll take Friday afternoon off.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    10. #690
      Join Date
      Nov 2017
      Location
      Lake Elsinore, CA
      Posts
      82
      Ryan,

      Can't help but to blame you. Your build had me lusting for a '67 Camaro since I first stumbled on it. I say "had" because this morning I wired the funds to the seller of a '67 RS/SS Camaro. Should have it in a few weeks depending on shipper availability.

      Thanks for re-sparking the interest, I sold my last of 3 '67 Camaros (67RS) in 1991. Now if I can just leave this one stock enough - long enough to finish my '55.

      Jeff

    11. #691
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,978
      Country Flag: United States
      Haha, that's great! You'd better stay off this site if you want to keep it stock. The fact that you are hoping to leave it stock is a bad sign haha. Let me know when you get sick of the '55

      Also thought I'd post this up since I had a question about it before. There is a square stock that I welded to the bottom side of the bracket so that it won't rotate.



      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    12. #692
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,459
      Country Flag: United States
      Man, you've made a lot of progress over there. You're coming down the homestretch...
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LS2/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, SC&C, ATS, Street Rod Designs, Speedhut, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    13. #693
      Join Date
      Jul 2017
      Location
      Island Lake, IL
      Posts
      130
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by csouth View Post
      Man, you've made a lot of progress over there. You're coming down the homestretch...
      I declare this guy a badass. Got a young family to take care of, built this car from the ground up the past 5 years, drove it and now nearing completion of a full drivetrain upgrade/redo just over one winter.

      Iím just trying to get mine going before it turns a decade of not driving it hahaha. Got two more years to go before I hit that point.

    14. #694
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,978
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks man, I appreciate that. It's certainly been a juggling act and most importantly, I have a very understanding wife.

      Last Friday night I made a big push to button up all of the remaining items on my punch list. The biggest thing was mounting my heat exchanger pump and routing all of the lines without kinking them. I've been thinking about the placement of the lines for about a week now and finally am happy with this location. By mounting it here I didn't need to drill any holes in the core support and the hoses had a sweeping angles so there aren't any hard turns or kinks.





      The BMW CWA50 pump uses a quick connect fitting for the inlet, which I was able to source from RockAuto. It was for a heater hose off of a 2005ish VW Golf.



      Then I routed all of the hoses as neatly as I could.







      Then after final fitment, I realized that I needed to notch the center support bracket just slightly so the heat exchanger bracket I made would fit better.



      I painted and reinstalled the upright supports for the heat exchanger. Then reinstalled the center support, horn and hood latch.





      I got some black annodized check valves, 3:1 heat shrink with glue, and an assorted clamp set to finish things up.



      I'm not sure if it's 100% needed, but I also bought this inline PCV valve that was recommended by Holley per their instructions for their tall valve covers. I may end up removing it since I also have one in my valley cover.



      Then it was time to fill or top off all of my fluids. Trans, rear diff, PS pump, and the engine. Not sure if it was entirely necessary, but I used this crazy contraption to pump oil into the galleys. It's hard to say if it worked or not and it was certainly messy.





      Then I got everything plugged back in and realized that my GM oil pressure sensor was junk... I figured it was a long shot since it was a used sensor. I ordered two sensors from Lowdollar Motorsports and they showed up really quickly.





      After working all night Friday and a few hours Saturday morning now it was time. I set up my base tune, all the fluids were topped off and everything was as ready as it could be. Finally turned the key and it coughed a few times and nothing. Just would crank, no fire. After walking away for a day and coming back I was able to determine that it was a user error. I somehow flipped the odd and even coil connectors so the engine was the equivalent of being 180* out on a motor with a distributor. I didn't have enough time Sunday to work on it any further, but after flipping those quickly on my lunchbreak yesterday, I tried again with success! What a great feeling that it fired up pretty quickly once all the connections were right. I was nervous about the oil pressure since it was a brand new motor, but it came right up within 1-2 seconds and had a steady 60 psi.

      https://youtu.be/soeYhoMNaeU

      Now what was the biggest tease is that I had a stubborn clutch that didn't want to bleed. I had the Speedbleeder from Tick, but it still didn't want to bleed. Since the remote bleeder is so long, I just cracked the bleeder and put it in the reservoir overnight. I went out last night to button up a few coolant hose leaks I had and tried to bleed it again. Then finally after about 5 mins there was a huge bubble that came out of the bleeder and that was it. Clutch pedal was great now. I switched from the 7/8" bore that came with the Tick kit, to a 3/4" bore to make the pedal a little softer. Last year I found that the clutch was very touchy and had a very narrow window for a perfect release. I'm very happy with the slightly longer travel and not having the pressure so heavy. Should make for a much more enjoyable drive.

      I cleaned everything up and snapped a few pictures. Very pleased with the outcome. The weather is supposed to be decent at lunchtime today so I'm going to get some break in miles under my belt.









      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    15. #695
      Join Date
      Nov 2017
      Location
      Lake Elsinore, CA
      Posts
      82
      Congrats Ryan.

      Your hard work paid off - she sounds great. I'm standing by for the test drive results.

      Jeff

    16. #696
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      The City of Fountains
      Posts
      15,635
      Country Flag: United States
      That Summit Ghost cam sure idles nice.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 2.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @projectgattago
      Dr. EFI
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    17. #697
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,459
      Country Flag: United States
      Very nice!!! Glad you got it all together.

      Check out the Pontiac G8 upper radiator hose if you want a 1pc setup. It's what I used on my install.
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LS2/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Rushforth Wheels, SC&C, ATS, Street Rod Designs, Speedhut, KORE3, Ridetech

      Project Motor City Madness

    18. #698
      Join Date
      Sep 2018
      Posts
      42
      Great job Ryan!

    19. #699
      Join Date
      Sep 2019
      Posts
      23
      Impressive work man. It sounds great! How did the break in go?

    20. #700
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,978
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I am happy to report that I was able to take the car out on the maiden voyage with the new drivetrain. Since I'm still working from home I was able to get the car out for 20 mins or so on my lunchbreak. Keep in mind that the motor is a fresh rebuild so I need to take it easy for the first few hundred miles. Although I have a buddy who brought up a good point. When you buy a crate motor, or any of the engine rebuilders, they break the motor in for about 15-20 mins., then put it right on the engine dyno for full WOT pulls. He's built hundreds of motors and helped with countless others at a big shop down in Charlotte. So I trust what he says, but still made me nervous haha.

      That said, I didn't take the car over 4k rpms this time. I was listening for any strange motor sounds, driveline vibrations, watching the oil pressure, watching IAT's (can get very hot because of the supercharger), watching coolant temp, feeling out the transmission, shifting gears, getting a feel for the new clutch and etc. I'm happy to report that the oil pressure cold was about 60 psi, and warm idle was around 35 psi. Right where I wanted them to be. IAT's were higher than I'd like, so I need to check into that. Coolant also got warmer than I'd like at around 200-205. Fans come on around 195, and before with the LS1 it would hit about 198 and then drop to 185 pretty quickly. I think there may be a bubble in the motor somewhere.

      The transmission was also something I have been worried about since I tore it completely down. I'm happy to report that it shifts great, and the Hurst Blackjack shifter makes for an incredibly short shift. That is something I need to get used to. It's about a ~3" throw, which is much different than the Pro 5.0 that I had last year. I also now know what everyone means by the T56 being a notchy transmission. Whenever I would change gears last year there was always this little mechanical "notch" that you would feel before you went into a gear. 4th gear in particular had a notch that was more pronounced and would actually grind occasionally which I think was a bad synchro. This year is completely different. Gear shifts are buttery smooth and it just slides into gear. I'm so happy that I didn't seriously mess something up when I re-assembled as well as that the trans was healthy since it was a used unit. VERY happy about that. The transmission shifting is so smooth with the gear shifts which is something I pleasantly surprised with.

      Another thing that I changed was something I had planned on doing regardless of my engine/trans swap. I am running a 4th gen Camaro clutch master kit from Tick and when you get it from them it comes with a 7/8" bore Tilton unit. While this makes for a short throw, it makes the clutch pedal more stiff and also made for a very narrow window for a smooth gear change. I swapped it out for a 3/4" unit that added ~1.5" to the throw, but is so much more enjoyable to shift gears. The sweet spot for clutch engagement is wider so it takes less thought to shift smoothly as well as a more stock feeling pedal feel. I'd say it's only slightly more stiff than "stock", but it's to be expected with a twin disk clutch.

      So far I've only had one leak, which was an easy fix since it was just a coolant hose. Needed a different hose clamp since the one I had was a little wonky. My diff isn't leaking which is a huge win!

      Overall I couldn't be happier with my first outing, and my first impressions are that this is going to be a beast of a car. I kept running out of gear when I would hit the throttle. I have a lot of work to do on my tune, but the engine would pull hard. Chirps the tires without trying to. :shock: It's really going to be a handful, and I like that.

      It's funny I'm relived that the car is back up and running again, but now I have a laundry list of things that I need to do to get the car running better.

      Figure out why the coolant temp is getting higher
      Why I have higher IAT's ~60 degrees over ambient
      Lower the fuel pressure. Since I have 850cc injectors for when I run flex fuel, I lowered to 43psi in the tune, but my actual is about 65-67psi.
      It surges at idle when hot, so I need to adjust the blade position and/or adjust the IAC settings
      Integrate VSS into the tune so that I can have the reverse lockout function like stock. Right now I have it set to activate when the TPS is under 2%, but when I lift to shift it was open, so that's not good. I think I'll add a secondary condition to something like MAP input.
      General cleanup of the tune
      Need to replace my battery. It is weak and didn't want to re-start.

      That's all I have for now. Hope to get some real seat time this weekend.



      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, TR6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD


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