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    Page 33 of 33 FirstFirst ... 23 28 29 30 31 32 33
    Results 641 to 660 of 660
    1. #641
      Join Date
      Nov 2017
      Location
      Lake Elsinore, CA
      Posts
      75
      Ryan,

      I admire your attention to detail and methodical approach. I've been reluctant to tear into my LS or T56 but you make it look easy.

      Great build, lots of good info - keep it coming as I'm learning a lot watching this come together.

      Jeff

    2. #642
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,299
      Country Flag: United States
      The motor looks great, nice job. It looks like you have this all figured out, I'm looking forward to seeing you put it back together. Do you have to check the tolerances or will they be the same on the new main shaft?
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    3. #643
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks guys, it may look easy but is far from it. I'm learning as I go, just doing a lot of reading and trying to ask questions. Not sure if I can mention the name here since I don't believe they are a sponsor, but a particular company I've called for tech support has been very helpful whenever I've called them.

      The tolerances do need to be checked, but from what I understand most parts are guided by the snap rings and they can only really go in a certain spot. I believe the biggest one I need to check is the overall mainshaft end play when I get the case bolted back together.

      Once I pulled a blocker ring and a gear off the countershaft, the rest of the gears slid right off. I made sure to keep track of everything and take a bunch of pictures with every piece I removed. Here is right before the maincase was removed.



      After all the detents and guide pins were removed I could pull off the main case.





      Now I had access to the mainshaft to further disassemble.





      I ended up buying a bearing puller kit from Harbor Freight and while it did the job, wasn't overly impressed with the quality. The chromed bearing separators themselves were nice quality, but the rest of the kit left a lot to be desired. The three jaw puller probably would have worked, but there wasn't much to grab onto with this smaller gear. I didn't want to risk chipping one of the teeth.



      I took my time and slowly removed and documented everything. Then It came down to removing the front main bearing. I tried the smaller bearing separator, and ended up bending the cage. That lead to the rollers falling out. This was the only thing that was damaged during the disassembly process and I'm thrilled because that little bearing is only $20.





      Here is the table with everything disassembled and in the order it was removed.



      The Camaro TR6060 mainshaft is on top, and the new T56 Magnum shaft is on the bottom. You can see on the end of the Camaro shaft where the splines are and how it tapers down quite a bit. That is where guys break the transmissions when they put down more power than stock.





      The trans at this point is completely disassembled and I wanted to take assessment of what parts I may need to order. All of the syncros look great with minimal wear as to be expected with a low mileage transmission. All the gears have nicely pointed teeth with no damage as well as the blocker rings and syncro assemblies. I then started looking at the tailshaft and realized there is one bearing and one bearing race installed. I was able to remove the top bearing race pretty easily, but the lower rear counter shaft bearing didn't budge. So I decided to replace it since it was also pretty inexpensive.

      Out with the old:



      In with the new:





      It felt good to start reinstalling some parts, but that is as far as I want to go at this point until I get the new front mainshaft bearing. I want to have that installed so that I can test fit each gear as I go to ensure that I have the proper alignment. I ended up ordering the front main shaft bearing, rear countershaft bearing and a Tick speed bleeder. I'm hoping that it shows up sometime Saturday so that I can get the transmission back together soon.

      I received what will hopefully be the one of the last engine parts before I can get it all back together. I splurged a little since it was my birthday a few weeks ago and went with the CHE Trunnion kit. Very impressed with the full floating design as well as the overall presentation. I can't think of any other part that I've opened where I was this impressed.



      I'm not sure if I really "needed" the trunnion upgrade, but the motor had almost 200k on it, so I figured it was a good insurance policy. I also received a cheapy valve spring compressor that I bought from Amazon so now I have everything I need to measure for pushrods.



      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, T6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD


    4. #644
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Denton Texas
      Posts
      1,170
      Country Flag: United States

    5. #645
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks man. I'm learning a lot about how transmissions work!

      I'm at a stand still with the transmission at the moment waiting for the front mainshaft bearing and rear countershaft bearing, so I started turning my attention to the engine again. After the first spring compressor I bought on Amazon turned out to be a scam, I ordered a second one from a different vendor which showed up this time. My first reaction was, "Wow this is bad it's not even close to lining up!" It took me a few minutes, but then I realized that they installed the bolt going the wrong direction. After I got that swapped around it did a great job with my PAC dual springs.







      Another project I was working on was finalizing the jig in order to drill my head for the LSA dowel pin. I didn't like the idea of breaking off the dowel pin like most do, so I opted to figure out a way to drill it myself. Several months ago for a Lingenfelter jig, but they are unavailable. Someone responded to my ad on an LSA Facebook group and said he could build a jig. His was based on a template off of a gasket, so it needed some fine tuning, but once I got it centered, it fit perfectly. I had an old truck LS head that I used to get the centering just right, then did the final drill on my 821's. Came out perfectly.

      Took several attempts to get it centered.



      Once I was happy, I fully welded them together.



      Here's the final fitment with the truck head.





      Then onto my 821's.





      Much better!!





      My bearing showed up last night from Tick, so I'm hoping to get the transmission back together by the weekend to start mocking up for my driveshaft.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, T6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    6. #646
      Join Date
      Aug 2002
      Location
      Waleska Ga.
      Posts
      2,532
      Country Flag: United States

    7. #647
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      I've been slowly making progress with this transmission rebuild. I've had a few hang up's that I'll get into into later. I've also had a few parts that I bought a while ago slowly trickle in. Other than a driveshaft and a few other small parts I'm pretty sure that I have everything I need to get this motor back in the car.

      Unlike with my LS1 accessories, there wasn't an easy OEM hose that I could find to use with the CTSV power steering pump. I found a fitting from TurnOne that would optimize the pressure and flow for the CTSV pump to my JGC steering box as well as convert over to -6AN lines. I then got Russel fittings and hose to make my own line.





      What's nice is that they extended the fitting so that it sits outside of the pulley. That way you can easily tighten it.





      Also got a bunch of fittings, hardware, brackets and some wiring from ICT. Low mount Corvette spaced alternator bracket to finish my swap.



      LS3 starter since the TR6060 requires a small snout starter. Low mileage takeoff that I found on eBay from a dismantler.



      The CWA50 pump that I bought from a 4.4 BMW had one of those quick connect fittings on it for the inlet, and I couldn't find any good info out there on it. I took a chance on a fitting I found on RockAuto and it was an exact fit. It is a heater hose from a VW.





      I also bought a bunch of misc. parts from RockAuto when I made the order.



      Bearings from Tick along with their Speed Bleeder. Also the AFCO hose in the picture with the TurnOne fitting is my clutch line.



      I had a leak in my rear pinion, so I decided that since I was upgrading the whole drivetrain, I might as well swap out the stock 1310 12 bolt yoke for a forged 1350 unit from Inland Empire. I needed to get a new 31 spline slip yoke for the Magnum, so I opted for the Sonnax forged 1350 unit. Both are really nice pieces and will be needed to measure for a driveshaft when the time comes.



      And last up for the parts update. I found a guy selling all of these parts, super low mileage BTR push rods, 100mm DSX idler (gives better belt wrap) and a few various belts. I got all of these parts for less than a new set of brand new pushrods. I still need to measure for length, but given that everything I'm using is stock, I'm confident that they will be 7.400 length.





      To be continued...


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, T6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    8. #648
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      Once I received the #11 bearing from Tick, I was able to get it pressed on and started the reassembly process. It went pretty smoothly during the install, until I got to the part where I needed to press back on 5th and 6th gears.

      Here's where I started back with my assembly. I made sure to inspect and carefully reinstall all of the syncros into the blocker ring assembly. It is also important to lubricate the parts with trans fluid as you install. Don't forget about the bearings too.





      Moving on and almost ready to test fit the main case. Up to this point everything slid together and retained with large clips. Next up was to re-install the main bearing, 6th and 5th gear. It's also worth noting that I did need to disassemble part of it at this point because the shift rail for 3/4 needed to be installed still.



      Here is what I came up with to install the bearing and gears. I found it online somewhere and it worked well for the first bearing, but I later found out that because the assembly was not 100% square, it was causing me to strip threads on the rod that I bought. I think also in part, it was the composition of the rod that I bought. I didn't realize it at the time, but the rod was a low strength carbon steel rod. I should have opted for a high strength 10.9 or 12.9 unit from McMaster Carr, or others. And for anyone that may be attempting this, the thread size for the T56 Magnum shaft (as well as most Tremec transmissions including standard T56) is M12 x 1.75.



      After struggling for several days, I was able to get the 6th gear pressed on so that I could get the main case bolted together. I also made sure to put liquid Teflon around the guide pins, shift detents, and reverse light.







      After a bunch of cussing and thoughts about it, I decided to try another way. I removed the 2" cap that I had drilled and in its place I used a 1/2" steel plate that I had with a small hole in it. I also put the pipe piece I had directly on the gear and against the flat steel. This gave me a much straighter pull and it almost effortlessly allowed me to press the gear on. I regret not taking a step back to re-evaluate how I was doing it. Would have saved a lot of aggravation.



      Once that gear was back in it's home, the rest of the parts slid right into place.



      Here is the final trans back together. I'd be lying if I didn't row through the gears for at least 10 minutes. I still need to get or make a plate for the mid-shifter location, but otherwise it's ready for install. Those 2x4 pieces that I have are for to space the bellhousing off the floor/workbench so that the input shaft doesn't have pressure on it.





      I also received my LS3 valley cover which will make for a much cleaner PCV install. I found a good deal on a new crate motor take off on eBay that came with bolts and a new gasket.



      Next up is to get everything on the motor bolted together so that I can get the longblock ready for install. I'm planning on installing the motor/trans bolted together as one unit and hopefully only one time. Since I'm really replacing an LS motor for an LS motor and Tremec transmissions that have very similar external dimensions, I'm hoping for no surprises. The biggest question mark for me is going to be the shifter location. If my measurements are correct, it should only be 1.5" farther ahead than my old Fbody T56.

      I'm getting so excited to get the motor back together and hear it run.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, T6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    9. #649
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      Summerfield, NC
      Posts
      186
      Country Flag: United States
      Man good job on the trans build. I've wanted to get into mine but have yet to do so. Glad I'm not the only one that records my bad decisions with a salute pic.

      The tick speed bleeder is a great piece, love mine. If you want to make bleeding your brakes or clutch the easiest thing you've ever done, get a Motive Products power bleeder and fittings for your master cylinders. One man job, I got tired of hearing my wemmens bitch when I asked for a pedal pusher, that power bleeder is a simple but super useful thing to have around. Basically a remastered pressure sprayer that you use to pressurize clutch/brake/etc then you can walk around and crack bleeders, it'll push all the air out of the lines.
      *Jeff*
      Project Salty - 1964 4 door Malibu, beaten, neglected, red headed foster child
      Cammed LQ4 / T56 Swap Project Thread <-click to read! 😁

    10. #650
      Join Date
      Dec 2017
      Posts
      54
      Great update Ryan! You sure make it look easy!
      1951 Ford F1, 1967 RS Camaro, 1979 Firebird Formula, 1979 Trans Am/LS swap.

    11. #651
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Luke!

      Doesn't visually look like I've gotten much accomplished, but the short block has been completely buttoned up. I only had the timing and rear covers on to keep dust and dirt out.

      I started out back and got the rear cover aligned with the pan and torqued down. Followed that up with the correct "big bearing" to properly match the TR6060 input shaft.



      Next up was the front cover. I still needed to align the oil pump before I could get it final torqued. I used the .002 shims and it centered up very nicely. I oiled everything up with assembly lube, torqued and then installed the timing cover loosely.





      Now I'm really starting to get excited about this project. I'm on the downhill side and starting to bolt on new (or new to me) parts. I grabbed my stock LSA balancer and installed it on the crank. I made sure to lubricate the hub so that it didn't tear the new seal. I have a crank pinning kit on the way and once that is here I'll add a few pins to make sure that the crank doesn't spin.



      I'm sure there are other ways to accomplish this, but I used the transmission to help align my oil pan. I cleaned up the sealing surface and put a dab of silicone on the 4 corners where the front and rear covers meet the oil pan gasket. I snugged the oil pan to transmission and then torqued the pan.



      While the transmission was attached, I test fit my starter. I had to get another starter because the TR6060 uses the smaller size.



      Reinstalled my Holley mounts and now it's ready for the heads and valvetrain.





      My 18MO shop buddy helped me put all of the bellhousing bolts where he felt they needed to be haha. Love having him help me in the garage.



      Then moved onto the heads. I got all of the valve springs installed in the heads and they are ready to go. I put assembly lube on any moving part and now they are ready to install.



      Once the heads are on I'll check my push rod length and button up the top end.

      Cheers,
      Ryan


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, T6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    12. #652
      Join Date
      Jul 2017
      Location
      Island Lake, IL
      Posts
      19
      Country Flag: United States
      Good stuff man. Haven't seen your thread since TAC has been down.

    13. #653
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      5,714
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice improvising Ryan.

      The Tremec shifter has a very poor lower seal design. The hoop stress on the seal is way too much. In other works, it's stretched way to much around the shifter shaft.

      The trick is to machine the shaft so that the seal recesses into a groove that reduces the hoop stress. I had to warranty replace my shifter after it spewed oil all over the carpet, then again after a second failure. Replacement seals are not available from Tremec.

      9/16" diameter. It's not a matter of it it will fail, but when.

      Last edited by CarlC; 1 Week Ago at 07:31 AM.
      VaporWorx. We Give You Gas http://www.vaporworx.com

    14. #654
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the heads up Carl. I didn't know that was even a thing. My neighbor has a lathe. I'll have to buy him a case and run over and chuck it in to make a groove. Does anyone make a good aftermarket fulcrum to replace this one? Maybe even one that's modified to allow for a shorter throw? I plan on reusing my 10" shifter.


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, T6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    15. #655
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      Made some more progress on my engine last week. I installed the LS7 lifters that have been soaking in new oil along with some trays.



      Then I cleaned up the deck and head mating surfaces and installed a new LS9 head gasket.





      Finished the head install with a set of ARP bolts torqued to their specs.





      It was getting late when I was in the garage and got carried away test fitting the engine accessories. I started by test fitting the water pump, and before I knew it the whole accessories were mocked up.



      I test fit a new LS1 Fbody belt that I had kept in the event that it would work with my new accessories, but it's way too short. The routing looks good, but I do need to find a smaller idler pulley. This one was a random one that I had just to mock up.



      Then I got to looking at the low mount with truck alternator. It's going to be really close, and the positive stud will be contacting the frame. So I'm either going to need to reclock it or try a new alternator.







      I finally tracked down the last part that I needed for my Hybrid TR6060-Magnum project. I needed a mid-shift plate to cover up where the stock TR6060 shifter was. I found one listed on eBay along with a shifter and messaged the guy. He sold me the plate by itself, Win. I'll get some new bolts, but here it is installed hand tight to keep out dust/dirt.



      I also bought a few other parts. One is a trap door for the trunk so that I can swap out fuel pumps much easier. I like how this trap door is very slim and won't intrude into the truck far.



      I also finally found a fitting that works for the fluid pump on the TR6060. It is Dorman Part# 800-732, with a 9/16-18 thread with O-ring on the transmission side and a 5/8-18 inverted flare fitting for the line. I opted to go with a conventional flare nut over an AN fitting because I think it will do a better job of cooling, and a little easier on the wallet.





      I also got a 5' section of 3/8" NiCopp line with fittings and a Holley CAN splitter.



      Thanks,
      Ryan


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, T6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

    16. #656
      Join Date
      Jul 2017
      Location
      Island Lake, IL
      Posts
      19
      Country Flag: United States
      Folger's French Roast...we do Folger's Classic Medium over here lol

      Keep at it brother!

    17. #657
      Join Date
      Dec 2017
      Posts
      54
      Looking good Ryan! Keep it up, spring is right around the corner!
      1951 Ford F1, 1967 RS Camaro, 1979 Firebird Formula, 1979 Trans Am/LS swap.

    18. #658
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Jonesboro, Arkansas
      Posts
      2,462
      Country Flag: United States
      I like others here am impressed with your diligence and good work. I put one of the trap doors in my trunk floor too. One of the best purchases as of yet. Although there have been many best purchases, haha. Very nice work!

      Carl Wilson
      1968 Camaro - T-56 6 speed - 383 Stroker, 2014 Mustang GT seats

    19. #659
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Ma.
      Posts
      5,299
      Country Flag: United States
      It's coming together nice Ryan, good progress.
      Wayne
      Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
      Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

    20. #660
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Posts
      1,863
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks guys, I appreciate the compliments. Hoping to have the motor and trans in the car in the next few weeks.


      1968 Camaro 6.2 w/ LSA, T6060-Magnum hybrid, Z51 brakes, 12 bolt, Speedtech, Hotchkis, DSE
      1976 T/A LS1, 6 Speed, C5 front brakes, and etc. SOLD

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